Stonejag

Big day for the C yesterday, not only did I pass my MOT but I hit 100k on the way back :) Bit of a nightmare fortnight, took it in for annual service and to get my group buy poly mounts put in, to be told I needed: - drop links - ARBs - CV boot - wishbone bushes (turned out cheaper to get new wishbones...) - rear wheel bearings loose - gearbox mount (totally rotten centre, each half was still bolted in but nothing in the middle!) - rear engine mount (bolts seized and needed grinding off) Plus there's play in one shock, the gearbox is leaking, the fuel tank straps have almost rusted away and the rear brake lines are starting to go. Oh, and only three of the six driveshaft bolts were fitted on one side, and those three had the heads stripped :epicfail: So I got everything on order and booked it in for six days later to get everything sorted. Three days later all the remaining driveshaft bolts let go at once on the way to work, so I got it to the garage on a flatbed and told them to crack on with it. They gave it back a couple of days later, the next day I went over a pothole and one of the newly tightened rear wheel bearings let go! :bad-words: On the bright side it's now nicer to drive than it's been in ages, especially with the engine properly attached :D Anyone else had an exciting week? Stone

Almost certainly, that or a vacuum leak. Check the corrugated PCV pipework and the inlet elbow. Assuming it's not bucking because of a misfire, that is! If so it's most likely coilpack. Stone

Nope, Jazz blue's darker. One of my favourite Lupo colours (used to own one) but it looks pretty carp on a C! Stone

Or just ditch it and replace it with a straight pipe from inlet elbow to the top of the valve cover. The cross-shaped vacuum pipe is replaced with a straight bit of hose from the side of the throttle body to the carbon canister valve - normally blue, located on offside suspension tower behind the inlet elbow. Cost: If you do this, you'll need to check on / clean out any accumulated oil sludge every year or so. Stone

Sheet of cardboard underneath? My bets would be on the top radiator outlet (or next to it, where the mount slots in) or the water pump end of the crack pipe. Neither of them fit desperately well! Stone

Would the R32 coils fit through the stock VR6 inlet manifold? Tempted to swap over from coilpack as mine keep dying! Stone

All Corrados were ODB1 from the factory but mine has the later rectangular 18?-pin connector, as did all the late ones IIRC. It's just a connector change, so get a generic cable plus an adapter cable for the pair of 2-pin connectors if you need one. Stone

GSF parts come with at least a year's warranty and I've found they're usually less than 40% of VW OEM. Often from the same manufacturers too! Stone

He's not actually employed by VW though, is he? He's probably up the top end of their franchise but ultimately they're no different from the 'dodgy backstreet independent' other than the big VW signs outside and the hordes of desk-bound receptionists they always seem to find money to employ. I gave up on the dealerships entirely (after a Lupo episode where a blown gearbox seal caused them to declare I needed a new box at a cost of £3500 ex VAT - fixed for £750inc at the local indy place, with a free strip and rebuild!) when I realised they were only in it to wring as much money as they can out of you. It's never been about the cars, they are only interested in fitting new parts and putting the old ones on a ship back to Germany so they can be refurbed and flogged on to someone else. Just got the C back from my local indy place - no receptionists, a tiny waiting room which is clearly their lounge (including DVD player!) and you have to wait for them to smear grease on their trousers before they can get in the till. But £50ph labour rates, incredibly detailed product knowledge - the main tech used to race a Mk3 VR6! - and they picked up all sorts of problems big and small which had never been raised before even though the car's been past plenty of local garages. They even convinced the AA to give me £500 towards their bill on my parts cover! They're entirely staffed by ex-dealership guys who got fed up with the way they run things and do a storming trade. Good for them, I say. Stone

Yes, when I removed the old one I could peel 5mm of rust away in a slab. The stainless ones are loose in the slot so I guess they've mangled the slots outwards... Down the bottom of the slot, there was some rusty-looking water in there but none comes out when it's running so I don't think it's leaking. The rubber was utterly shot too, I have a spare but I was saving it for a future plan to get repros made... Temporarily fixed with a 10mm bolt and a nyloc under the slam panel, but it seems a bit sketchy as it's only really the backward pull of the radiator (from the other mount) that holds the bracket in place. What a mess! :nono: Stone

That cabrio must be terrifying with a VR in it. My ex drove a 1.8 model from 1986 and it was more than enough for the chassis...

What cat? :lol: From underneath it looks like it goes straight from downpipe to the decat pipe, to a long pipe that reaches almost all the way to the rear axle, then a small (maybe 16"x12"?) box before the back box. Would explain why it sounds so 'fruity' (fla's words)! The back box is Magnex so I'm guessing the rest of it's from them as well - I was surprised as I wasn't expecting it to have been done 'properly' given the rest of the poor thing's history... I need new front wheel bearings, track rod ends, ARBs, wishbones and drop links (plus a few other bits) so I'll try and grab some pics when it's back on the ramps next week :) Stone

Please could someone post a pic of the underside of their car, with the stock exhaust on? Had a proper look at mine the other day when it was up on the ramp and I'm sure I'm supposed to have more silencers that I do... I did search but might be being blind :)

It's slightly better to mount them onto the strut tower, as then you can take it on and off without worrying about stripping the threads out of your tensioner mount. You have to do them back up really tight, otherwise the belt squeals... That said, mine is on the tensioner bolt ;) I believe the MAF is 3" (76mm) and the CDA is 80mm so you'll need to stretch the coupler slightly to get it over the filter end. If you go for a hose the right diameter to just slip onto the CDA you'll struggle to get a good seal around the MAF. Stone

If your brackets come out better than mine I'd be up for a set anyway ;) I only started looking into it as I've half-torn a ligament in my right knee so long stretches at part-throttle are agonising. Would be nice to get it all sorted before it goes completely!

Any other way to tell? It's a '95-built VR6, I thought they all got EDL after the magic chassis number? I'd go and look but not only is it dark, there's now so much snow I can't get into the garage :lol: Stone

Good shout, thanks. It really seems like it's 'just' the electronics disabling it since when it's deciding to work it works perfectly. I'll be really upset if it's wet from the heater core blowing! I'll have a look when the snow calms down for a bit... It definitely seems worse in the cold and wet so fingers crossed. Another question: Is there any substantial difference between 1H0 907 379E and 1H0 907 379D? Seems I should expect to find either under the trim, but I've been burned before when ordering parts one revision-letter apart that had totally different numbers of pins! Cheers Stone

My ABS has been playing up on and off ever since I got the car 18 months ago. I've never been able to talk to it on VAG-COM - assumed it was my cable, but when I had it serviced today they couldn't get it to talk either... When attempting to connect to it the ABS light flicks on and off a few times but then no data comes through. When I start off in the morning the light's always on; holding the brake pedal in when starting, I instantly feel the pump(?) clunk and the light comes on and stays on. After driving the 20-odd miles to work, if I stop the car, then turn the key one click then the light stays on. But, if I hold the pedal while doing this then the light comes on, flickers and goes out, complete with the delayed clunk that normally tells you all is well. If I do this, then the ABS works exactly as it should. Any idea? I've heard refusal to talk on OBD means the pump needs swapping as the ECU is internal..? My rear lines aren't in the greatest of nick so I'm wondering whether swapping to the Mk3/Passat version without the rear brake bias valve would be a smarter move in the long run. If my lines all need remaking anyway then it seems I might as well..? Thanks in advance, Stone

I can highly recommend NOT playing in the snow, earlier I found out too late that my road has turned into solid ice with a sprinkling of snow on top! ABSed sideways all the way down the hill until I stopped it with an RX-8 :( Luckily I was only doing 10mph (I knew it was slippery, just not as bad as it was) so I need a 2" dent pulling out of one wing and the other guy needs some plastic bumper bits. Could have been far worse. Please drive safely! I've already seen one badly mangled Mk3 Golf and a brand new hatchback beemer and it's only been snowing a couple of hours :shaking: Stone

Unfortunately mine did :( Not only that but when the garage fitted my (brand-new) radiator they forced the old brackets into the slots, bending them, and then held them on with silicone... Now the stainless ones won't fit! Any ideas? Stone PS: the brackets are a work of art if you can get them fitted!

If you know it works, stick with it! Don't start chopping and changing until things have gone weird... ;) Stone

There are four different types so make sure you get the right one! Not sure what the differences are but my fans have never worked right and I'm not sure I have the right one fitted... 25 1H0919506 electric fan control unit / to be used for: / also use: / F >> 50-P-020 000 1H0 919 506 A N 017 125 2 / ABV,KR,9A,PG (25) 3A0919506 electric fan control unit / to be used for: / also use: / F 50-R-000 001>> 357 919 506 A N 017 125 2 / ABV air condit.: 2E (25) 357919506E electronic control unit / electric fan / for models with radiator fan run-on / F 50-R-000 001>> / 9A,2E (25) 3A0919506B electric fan control unit / for models with towing facility / and/or / for vehicles with automatic / for vehicle use in warm climates / F 50-R-000 001>> / 9A,2E Stone

There aren't a lot of auto owners here so you may struggle a little to get help! Exact codes will help, but it sounds most like the valve body or ECU. The ECU can detect if any solenoids aren't working properly and will tell you which of the five it is. If you had the valve body off there is a very delicate ribbon cable leading to the solenoids which can get damaged when you take any of the lower parts off. I don't recall if you can get it separately (probably not) but it's worth checking it for damage. The connectors onto the solenoids are also pretty notorious, if any of them broke when you took it apart then that won't help... See pic of ribbon cable (this is an 096 - kidney shaped filter port. The 01M has a circular one): When you disassembled and reassembled the valve body, did you get all the solenoid parts, ball bearings and washers back in, and in the right place? It's not really a DIY job to be honest, at least if you get a garage to do it and they break something then they have to pay for it! There's a disassembly / reassembly guide [here] which may help you. Do you have a dipstick on the front of the transmission (down low on the right side of the engine as you look at it from the front) with a red cap? If you do then it's an 096, if you don't then it's an 01M, which were never fitted to Corrados. If it's 1996+ model year it probably has an 01M - the ECU, harness and valve body changed, although there is a lot of similarity between them. You should be able to find spares without too much trouble. Lastly, consider fitting a remote transmission cooler - it makes the gearbox run a lot cooler. I did a long rambling post on how to do it here. Hope that helps! Stone PS: If you're ever at all unsure, take it to a reputable gearbox place for a rebuild. It will be expensive, but you may avoid causing permanent damage if you haven't done it already.

Ask the MOT tester, but it all depends on what they mean by 'or'. I imagine they mean the exterior and interior door handles both have to work (supported by [this link), not just that one or the other has to work. I agree that in your car, just the same as any modern car, if you have a crash and are knocked unconscious but the engine is still running and the ignition still on, then the doors will be locked. So the fire brigade / helpful bystander will just smash your window, pull the handle twice from the inside and the door will open. But it looks like the letter of the law says the handle has to work :( Given that handle's knackered anyway I'd probably have whipped the screw out of the end, pulled it free and cut through the central locking cable as a temporary fix since you can then press the opening lever to open it - or at least offered, just to try and wriggle out (and hope they don't realise you can then unlock it with finger pressure on the lock lever). Shame they noticed the damage really :( I got stopped on Monday - I was doing 60ish on a single-lane national limit road, it was just after midnight and nobody was about so I had accelerated fairly hard away from the roundabout I just left. Auto box only has four gears so I was most likely in second when I passed the traffic car going the other way...they stopped me a couple of miles further on and told me off about how it was so loud so I must have been speeding :scratch: Unfortunately they then went over everything in excruciating detail and caught a tyre a half-millimetre under the limit :( Apparently I now get to wait for up to 28 days while they decide if I get a £60 fine, three points, both, a speed awareness course (eh?!) or nothing! They were slightly sympathetic since I was less than a mile from home and I had a set of spare wheels/tyres to go on (or apparently I would have got a prohibition notice too), and they let me replace a duff bulb rather than adding that too, but they were obviously incredibly disappointed that I was taxed, insured and had a valid MOT... So yeah, they basically pull anyone and everyone, on any pretext, because they're really looking to nab people on tax/licence/MOT/insurance/tyres. Just bite your lip and take it, there's not a lot else you can do... Stone

They used to be under a fiver but the prices always go mad just before they discontinue things... If you do get a used one check the rear slot is pretty much parallel, they tend to open out when fitted and removed more than once.