Stonejag

Pics?

Part number on my one is 535 711 463. Think they're about £30-something new, so my one's staying put :D

Does the end of the cable just wedge into the gruven one? Was tempted way back when but couldn't stomach the price and ended up getting a new cable instead with the handle already attached... If it's just a lump of ally with two slots routed into it and two threaded holes for the setscrews then any decent machine shop could bang them out very easily. Stone

CDA, followed by 312s, followed by Lupo wipers and fixed steering column (a tie!). Got some 263s to go in 'soon' so it's good to know I can expect 8-10extra horses :) Stone

Mine's a daily and I commute 20 miles each way in it. I have fairly hefty fuel bills but it's a lot of fun! I'm using it to learn about mechanical stuff so there's always something to tweak but fingers crossed it's not too unreliable. Most of my current issues are things that previous owners haven't sorted out, and the ever-present rust... It's only just coming up to its first 100,000 miles so hopefully it'll still be going for a while. Going to get it resprayed this year at which point I might get a bit more touchy about damaging it! They're built to be used though, and there aren't a lot of cars I'd rather be driving. If I was to get a regular car it'd probably be a Lupo GTi, always wanted to put an R32 in one though :-D Stone

Saw a black late(?) C entering Ampthill from the north on Tuesday morning as I headed towards Bedford, around 0835. Anybody local? Didn't have time to wave...

If they're mounted in the standard headlights, they're illegal to use on the road and will fail your MOT. Even if you fit them into housings with the correct lenses, you also need a self-levelling system and headlight washers to meet the rules. Ditch them and fit better bulbs and/or an uprated loom instead. Or you could go for the in.pro projector headlights. Stone

You can get a really weird screech from not having the tensioner bolts done up tight enough - happened to me when I loosened one to fit my CDA bracket on it. Didn't seem to vary with engine speed at all. Also check your crack pipe, if they go at the water pump end then it can leak coolant onto the belt and make it squeaky.

There are some aftermarket kits that use servos to pull the gas pedal back and forth - you might want to look into this as well as it would make the whole thing a lot cheaper and less involved (no need to run vacuum lines into the engine bay, and no noisy pump - it'd all just run off the alternator). Then again, using all-original parts means you can quote VW's original type-approval if your insurance company gets twitchy! Having two systems also makes it safer / more redundant, as anything that lets air into the system will prevent the actuator from being able to move the pedal. Also, the OEM control units are utterly notorious for breaking. You'll need to make a bench-testing rig to thoroughly test each one if you're planning to sell them as part of a kit. You can have my LHD pedal cluster for cheap if you like ;)

Second this - or the actuator arm may have just popped out of the white plastic bush. Think they're still available, will only be 20p or so to replace though!

In fairness cheap coilies work fine as a quick fix for a slammed car - I still have JOMs on from 18 months ago and the only irritation is a bit of a creaking noise when cornering hard. They're not a soft ride though! The spring coating comes off the JOM ones within 6 months so they'll be rust-coloured in no time :D Stone

I'm still working on my setup and I'd say £120 is very much on the cheap side. Using all new OEM parts you could quite easily spend £300, and an original VW stalk is £95ish on top... It's really easy to add though - the main sticking point for me is the mounting brackets as the C is my daily driver so I can't really remove the pedal cluster to work on it. You need two brackets (one to hold the vacuum actuator and one to bolt onto the gas pedal linkage where it pulls on the throttle cable). The rest is just: Cruise ECU Stalk Brake pedal switch Clutch pedal switch (if manual) Vacuum pump Wiring harness Some vacuum tubing - and it's quite easily to throw together. The cruise ECU hooks into switched power, ground and the blue/white speed signal wire behind the fusebox and controls the vacuum pump's motor and outlet valve; when the system's on the valve is actuated to hold the vacuum in, if it needs to go faster then it briefly runs the pump to increase vacuum and if it needs to go slower it briefly opens the valve to let some air in. Pushing either pedal immediately lets air into the system (so the actuator relaxes) and signals the ECU to come out of cruise until you hit Resume. There's tons of info in my cruise thread in the Drivetrain section. All the parts are still available except the actuator bracket and modified gas pedal (from a 90's RHD Passat with cruise, so they're rare as well as discontinued!) so you could buy all new if you were feeling flush. A complete kit of used parts including a stalk and LHD Passat pedal cluster cost me about £240 with shipping from Germany so it's not a particularly cheap option! Shout if you need help, I've done most of the hard parts already :) Stone

I have a nearly mint one which is definitely late. Glass looks perfect. £50 posted.

Any previous owners of mine on here? N824 AOB. If you were, shame on you for not sorting any of the rust out!

Been posted a catalogue with discount code - not going to use it so feel free to! Quote EBAY3 with your online or phone order to receive 10% off. It's a mass-mailed promotion, not an individual code so should be OK to post... Stone

Sure thing - would be quicker but no access to the helpful guys in the machine shop over Christmas, sorry! Will give you a ring when it's good to go.

If you can wait a couple of weeks I will have one - need to get a new pivot pin fabricated so I can fit a replacement striker to my spare (had to grind out the remains of the old striker and take a chunk out of the pin to extract it) but then I can refit it and the one I currently have fitted will be available. If not, I'm sure someone will be along in a minute :) Would be after £20 posted. Stone

VW call them 'speed nuts'. I got a bag of 50 in assorted sizes for £2.50 from my local hardware shop - or you could temporarily nick one off one of your headlights? Get galvanised ones if you can, VW ones go as rusty as a very rusty thing... Stone

I don't think they exist, even from the factory they aren't that tight. Also there's a fair bit of flex in the mount (as it comes forward off the structure quite a long way - deliberately done as part of the crash proofing?) so even with a fixed column mine moves 5mm up and down. Better than it was, but it'll never be rock-solid unless you modify the shell.

While you have the door card off, don't forget to treat the inevitable rust around the drain holes at the bottom of the door! Head good things about filling the doors with closed-cell soundproofing foam, the stock membranes are terrible and that black adhesive's a nightmare to work with... Stone

Some of them are 10x1.5 though - ask me how I know! If you get your hoses from the lovely guys at C&R then they'll stick some bolts in the post if you end up with the wrong ones. Afraid I already gave away my extras... Stone

If the switch has ever been taken apart it may have been put back together wrong. If you pull on the button then it'll come free (don't lose the two small springs!) Then you'll see a plastic toggle piece which can flip up or down. This needs to be set right when the switch is reassembled or it just won't work, even though nothing looks wrong! Try taking the front piece off, flipping this toggle the other way and pushing the button back together, it may start working :)

Shock? It's also cheaper than getting the insurance involved, last time my premiums went up £200 :(

A motorcyclist rode into me at a roundabout earlier :( Luckily he was fine once extricated and asked for £60 to replace his windscreen, which I gave him. The fact that he accepted it probably means he knew it was his fault... Anyway, his engine side bars have crushed my offside rear arch basically flat at the front. It wasn't a thing of great beauty anyway but it's not really serviceable now as all the old filler's fallen out. Are repair panels available or will I have to accept a part cut off a breaker? Anyway, let me know what you have - I need a bit around 18"-24" square. Nearside has a pretty ragged edge bit isn't as bad - but I might as well take one if available. Thanks, Nick

Groomer :lol: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?36687-firewall-hole