Stonejag

Yeah in that case it's most likely door membranes plus the outer window seal ;) They fill up surprisingly fast if water can sneak through the window gap...

I keep looking at it and wishing it'd been available two years ago, would have got that instead of my one :lol: Please, someone buy it in case I have an bidding-finger 'accident'...

Everything specific to a Corrado will be worth something to someone on here! You'll easily make more than £200 on bits. My hit list, in no particular order: Instrument cluster screw covers handbrake trim dashboard centre console if it all clips together properly any glass, especially rear quarter windows rear bumper rear numberplate plastic surround spoiler + mech Wing mirrors any lights carpets rubber door trim and window scrapers door cards window mechs (especially if they're manual) sunroof mech roof trim rubbers side mouldings That's just the easy stuff, most of the running gear could probably find homes and even if panels are buckled / bent / dented they'd still be good for repair patches. Sills and floor pans always need doing... Stone

The door has two drains in the base so it's exposed to the carpet if your seals are past their best...that said I've had no membrane in my driver's door for over a year and it's bone-dry still! Have you made sure there's no water coming in from rotten front sills? They're notorious where the wing joins the chassis.

I use the internally-splined 'tuner' style ones as a previous set of wheels had such tight bolt holes they were the only kind that would fit! Keys are dirt cheap so I usually carry a couple in case the tyre place ignores my request and guns them up (which snap the splines off...). They're also slightly harder to round off than the normal socket head kind :) Stone

Got the bracket, going to prime and paint it this evening and hopefully tomorrow it will be dry enough to test-fit :) By eye it will be a fair amount shorter than the arm shown in the ETKA diagrams, but that's intentional... Stone

Mine's been hanging about loose next to the carbon canister ever since I bought it. The cable for mine isn't even close to long enough to reach the bumper (it barely stretches to the slam panel!) - was there anywhere else they were ever fitted?

Had just been refilling the coolant on my (now-ex) gf's drive in a fairly rough bit of Camberwell so I was giving it a bit of a rev to bleed the air out. I had another random pedestrian ask me how much and stop for a brief chat... When I got in the ex-gf asked, 'Was that another randomer trying to buy your Corrado?' :lol: (and yes, it was filthy outside, bay was even worse, everything was covered with coolant and the bodywork still looks carp. Doesn't deter them at all!)

You'll also need some 6mm-thick M12 spacers. The 288 discs are flat but the hub section is dished outward on the 312 discs (so the contact area is closer to the bodywork) and the spacers make everything line up again. I've got 312s on mine and they're a great improvement over stock - not tried 288s though, apparently there's not a massive difference. Stone

Knocked up some CAD for a massively over-engineered bracket. Did the arm length by eye based on the available space between pedal and firewall, it may be a little on the short side but the vacuum actuator has tons of oomph so it should cope fine - if not I can always rotate the actuator slightly to increase the force it can apply. I got a little paranoid about stress concentrations so added some nice big radii just in case... Managed to persuade one of the machine shop guys at work to cut me a couple out of 4mm mild steel in his lunchbreak :) Fingers crossed I can reach to drill the mounting holes in my existing pedal arm without removing it, access is quite tight but it looks doable. The OEM actuator bracket is still available but for 25 quid I'll make my own out of some angle iron! The arm that pulls on the throttle cable is a huge strip of steel (25+mm wide) so a couple of M5 holes shouldn't bother it too much. I also acquired some M5 dome nuts to tidy up the back of the bracket and stop anything catching on it - I'll probably hold it on with a nyloc first and then dome the rest of the bolt. Should get my finished brackets later so I'll see how close I got on the first attempt :) Stone

I have three or four of Dave's strikers, bought my own set but every handle I buy seems to have one on :lol: Bought the car without a door handle. 1) Bought a handle - gave it to a garage to fit while they did some other stuff - they routed the lock cable wrong so it got mangled in the window mech. Can't replace the cable... 2) Bought another handle, fitted it myself this time! Lasted 5-6 months, then snapped along the two thin bits of the casting between the part with the lock and the bit that pulls out. 3) Bought another handle, fitted fine, now it's gone floppy and some of the rear part has fallen off inside the door. Haven't looked yet (trying to minimise damage to the doorcard fixings so will check when I fit this new one) but I think the hinge pin that holds the striker on may have come adrift. 4) This one- already has an upgraded striker... 2) was my fault (it got jammed and trapped the latch between the open and close positions so couldn't be opened from inside or outside - basically had to pry at it) but the others weren't! I know it's had door striker problems in the past as I've found parts of one in the passenger door but I think I've just been unlucky. I have some A6 doors in the garage so the Audi handles will be going on during my respray next year :) This is just to tide me over - sadly I don't have a full closure alarm yet so can't swap over to delocked Passat handles in the meantime. Stone

Have now tested everything except the cruise ECU, per the checklist here. All working fine and I have good vacuum. Took the ECU apart and only found one suspect joint so I reworked that plus a bunch of the other accessible parts, fingers crossed it'll play ball for now... Going to tackle the bracketry tomorrow and see what I can come up with in CAD. Stone

FYI - it's much easier if you undo the 10mm bolt and then remove the upper cowling with the outer part of the arm still poking through it. The outer bit of the arm is removed from the upper cowling by pushing it inwards and rotating it 90º, so if you remove the cowling first you can see what you're doing and won't snap the slot by mistake :) Stone

Don't waste your money on the snake oil - anything 7mm with silicone insulation will work fine and hold up to the standard abuse. In particular the 8mm ones often just have an extra-thick layer of insulation so it achieves nothing other than stopping them fitting in the guides... I made my own using cable from Vehicle Wiring Products and the ends from an old set of Beru leads - they're reusable, just twist them off. Been on for months and still working fine :) The whole set cost under £25. Stone

Don't actually do it! It just knackers it at either end, it's bad enough as stock... To be honest there's no sensible way to do it with the standard setup, the drain hole is so small it comes out in a fan-spray and that smacks straight into the front cross-member so it just goes everywhere. I swapped to a metal crack pipe, chucked the drain plug that was supplied with it and fitted a small brass domestic gas tap in its place - now I can just attach a bit of hose to the tap to drain it where I want it :) You have to be elbow-deep in the bay to reach the crack pipe so anything that helps stop it weeing it all down your arm is worthwhile! You could also try K-Seal - amazing stuff, it sorted tons of my leaks until I could change all the plastic bits. Doesn't clog up your rad or heater matrix but it can even repair the cracks that form around the radiator mounts when your ham-fisted garage hammer rusted mounting brackets into it... Stone

Wishful thinking then... Oh well, free bump!

Is it my eyes or is that a non-sunroof model? If so, bagsy the headlining...

I replaced my thermostat and 3-part housing with Meyle (OEM) parts from http://www.vwspares.com for under 35 quid last year - all still going strong. Worth it just for peace of mind, VW plastic parts are notorious for being slowly eaten away by the corrosive coolant... Also check the crack pipe - the handbook method of draining the coolant involves twisting the pipe to direct the stream and it tends to crack at one end (next to the water pump) if it's been previously fitted using sealant. Metal replacements are best but if not then treat yourself to a new plastic one for £9! Alternatively it could be a pinhole in a hose (check for steam when engine is warm and it's a cold day out - they may close up when the system's not under pressure) or a duff seal in the expansion tank cap - if so it'll be coming out of the vent in the tank when it gets hot. If you're checking it when stationary, remember the water pump is driven from the aux belt so you'll have more pressure and more chance of finding a leak if someone inside can rev it to 2500ish rpm for you! Stone [plagued by leaks until he replaced...well, everything :lol:]

Its function is to push the boot slightly open when you hit the button so you can get your fingers into the gap to open it :)

Yeah he was a lazy sod and hated removing the cover in winter! Less would probably be fine if you changed it every month or so... You can even bake it to get the moisture back out, he could never be bothered to do that either :lol:

Done! PM sent...

My ex's uncle used to overwinter his Testarossa with a cover on and a 10kg tub of rice in the back to absorb the moisture. Apparently it worked a treat (stir the rice occasionally to allow the dry stuff to the top) and was dead cheap to replace... Stone

I don't know what it is with driver's door handles but they keep failing on me :( Maybe I just keep buying half-dead ones? Urgently need a new one as I now can't get the door open...preferably working correctly this time! Cheers, Nick

You've missed the indicators but I have a mint o/s fog in the for sale section at the moment. Also have a n/s one but the lens is smashed so would need replacing (perfect surround though).

Sounds like you have it sorted now, but just for reference: if you bypass the ignition switch with the key not inserted then it should start, run for 1-2 seconds and then cut out when the immobiliser stops it. You have to have the chip from the key in range of the pickup ring for the immobiliser to allow the engine to continue running. Stone