Stonejag

If mine expire together I usually get six months of tax the first time instead of a full year. Then presto, they're 6 months out of sync and you've got tons of time to sort the MOT out :D Stone

The barrels are expensive because you can't retumble them...fingers crossed you have the original locks on your car. If you don't then the new barrel will match the locks that were on it when it was manufactured and you'll have to retumble the doors, boot and glovebox to make them all match! Or have more than one key... Stone

Yes they are. £13 first class. £8 posted.

It's declared SORN, renewal due 1st August 2013. You can look the details up from the DVLA: https://www.taxdisc.direct.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/app/home/beginvehicleenquiry Stone

I really didn't think that's what everyone would be fighting over, all my mates have hated it :lol:

Sure thing, £11 posted. They're late style ones.

If it's the one for the PCV valve, the OEM ones are terribly fragile as they're made out of corrugated plastic and tend to split along the underside. You'd be better off using some oil-rated hose of the right internal diameter - pence from any decent motor factors. Stone

Starting to clear up some of the huge pile of bits in my living room! Passenger's side headlight: no glass, clips broken, otherwise all bits present and working fine: £20 Driver's side headlight: intact glass in excellent condition, top clips broken, but otherwise fine: £35 (or both headlights for £50) Polished wooden steering wheel with VW horn push - £5 Passenger window mechanism and motor: Got stuck when it was in the car but after I removed it I found it went up and down fine so probably just needs some grease. £25 (or swap for a driver's side mech + motor?) VR6 Thermostat housing (all three parts), good used condition and watertight. I'll chuck in a free thermostat and some bolts ;) : £25 VR6 dipstick: £5 Corrado original radio whip (excluding aerial base). Slightly worse for wear at the bottom but still servicable: £5 Rear wiper arm with a free aero-style blade: £5 Original VW ignition switch, in working order when removed: £10 One of the three lower windscreen trim pieces (right hand side...this one was the only one that survived being peeled off the evil black glue!), part number 536853830: £5 Corrado emblem, rear VW badge, both black, both in good condition: £10 each Bonnet release handle: £5 Driver's side electric window switch, old style interior: £5 Boot lock with matching key: £5 VR6 radiator with a slight leak; would be fine to weld up or send for refurb. £25 or £10 on collection. All prices are for collection (excluding postage). If you collect you get a free cup of tea and the odd discount if you're nice :) Any questions, please do ask. I prefer cash on collection or Paypal gift but if you don't use it I'm sure we can come up with something. Cheers, Nick

Depends on the year, but probably. This may help: link. Are you also having trouble with your spoiler? If that and the speedo are working OK then it would prove that the sensor's fine and the fault is in the wiring between the sensor and the auto box ECU. I think the vehicle speed signal is always on blue/white wire so that may help you trace it. There are wiring diagrams in the Bentley too, but it'd be worth removing the connectors from gearbox and auto box ECU, giving them a good spray of WD40 and reseating them just in case... Stone

To get the door open you need to push down on the lever sticking out of the catch unit (1 in the lower pic, circled). This is what the door striker normally operates. You probably won't be able to get the door card off with the door fully closed but if you can drop the window then you can carefully remove the rubber trim window-scraper pieces to give yourself a bit more room - just pull upwards. Careful as they're fragile and crack if you bend them too hard. Can't see how it would happen without the door handle striker being broken and the internal handle getting unhooked though! Stone

I know I'm sad but I'll have the keyring. I've already got one but the spare key doesn't :camp:

Very worthwhile upgrade, it was the first thing I did to mine after trying to drive on the M25 while it was raining :lol: I like the aero wipers so much I've got one on the back window too :)

That is a pretty epic way to mess it up :lol: I sent £1m of radio equipment from the UK to Germany in my last job - cost a bloody fortune but got there undamaged next-day. Sadly all the international couriers are expensive these days :( DPD are pretty good as well. Stone

Yeah, they're really awkward to dismantle. I gave up on my MAF plug (metal fatigue in one wire so it snapped off level with the blue silicon waterproofing plug) and had to chop a chunk off the side to get enough metal to solder the wire back onto. That said it lasted a year before I got around to putting a plug from a Golf VR6 on it, just chopped and spliced the wires further down the loom. Much easier... Pretty sure you can still get the terminals from VW if you want to use all-new parts, just use a standard crimp tool to attach them. Stone

Fine by me :) Give me a shout if you can't find anyone more local.

I've had an issue for the last few weeks where the radio turns off when I stop the car. More specifically: 1) I get in the car. The radio's off, and can't be turned on with its power button. 2) Insert key in ignition. Turn to accessories position. Radio can then be turned on. 3) Turn key to zero position. Radio stays on. 4) Remove key. Radio turns off, and loses all its settings. Previously the radio could be turned on at any time and would stay on even after removing the key. This is what I would expect from having factory nearly-ISO wiring connected to an aftermarket headunit with the switched live pin constantly live and the permanently-live pin switching on and off with the ignition. Sometimes it still does this, loose connection behind the radio maybe? When I put the Audioscape pods and 4 Ohm speakers in I noticed the backlighting fades in and out with the bass like it's not getting enough power... Dodgy ignition switch or dodgy wiring? I know it's a bit of a rats' nest behind the dash but I'm quite keen not to fiddle too much! I think the switched-live pin may have come loose, sound reasonable?

I was being dense and asked a stupid question. Feel free to delete this thread :)

You're welcome to borrow my spare set if you can drop round to collect them from Hertfordshire... They're 17" rims in 5x100 with (from memory) 205/40/17s fitted all round, and tons of tread left. Stone

StueyB has a pair of manual window mechs with handles from an old Ford fitted - very nice numbers in shiny chrome. They came from a scrapped Mk2 Golf so no idea where they're from originally but you could try your local scrappies for some nice ones, they won't be expensive. The splines on the Ford handles fit the VW mechs perfectly. Stone

I've got two ruined front tyres (inside edges worn right through) and the most recent one is only three months old :( Been getting a bit of vibration at speed recently so having the cords hanging out's probably not helping..! The last place to set the geometry up was the same garage that nearly killed me with loose wheel nuts that also smashed my engine plastics, ripped the ends off my HT leads by pulling the wire, cracked my water pump, tore my aux water pump mounts etc etc etc so I'm pretty sure they set it up wrong. What do I need to tell the tyre place to get it done properly first time, just the target toe and camber from above? I'm on 195/45/16s with approx 40-60mm drop (not sure how much, it's cranked up 45mm from where it was when I bought it...). Had new top mounts all round (Febi) and new rear beam bushes (also Febi) at around the same time as swapping the fixed Koni shocks for JOM coilovers about this time last year so hopefully they're still OK. Any tips would be most welcome, aiming to get it done Friday morning... Cheers :) Stone

Good man. Now make sure you leave the boot lock in the 'unlocks with central locking' position otherwise when you try and get it in a hurry you'll lose ten seconds dashing back for the keys out of the ignition and fumbling with adrenaline-fingers to get it open... My first trip out from the garage will be for two new tyres (bad tracking, boo!), then to the hardware shop for a new extinguisher and a 10mm ratchet spanner to keep in the driver's door pocket to undo the battery clamp with. I lost 30 seconds rummaging in my tool bag for something to disconnect the battery with and for all of that time it was getting worse! Lessons learned all round but if I can stop someone making the same mistakes and save a Corrado or two it'll all be worth it :) Stone

Found out today I've burned through a brand new front tyre in under 3 months :( There's tons of tread left but very severe wear on the inner edges of both front wheels (exactly where you can't spot it easily!) so they're now mega-illegal... So would I be right to assume my tracking's going to be way out too? My car's lowered by 40-60mm; not sure exactly how much as I've cranked it 40+mm up from where it was when I bought it. All the threads seem to say lowered Cs are about right with -1 negative camber but is there anything else I need to tell the guys at the tyre place so they can get it right first time? £140 in tyres after another three months would be quite upsetting! Cheers :) Stone

Apparently mine crumbled around the top elbow when it was removed :( I would probably just get a new one, all the second-hand ones are going to be in similar nick... Alternatively you can have mine for reconditioning / welding up as the rest of it's ok. 20 squid plus postage? Can't see it being over 35 all in.

Yes, and I was about to suggest them...usually not cheap but they will take care of them. UPS aren't bad for international packages either. Stone

Rear quarter glasses, hard to find in a hurry! MAF and coilpack for VR6es.