seanl82

I asked if anyone had one on here a couple of years back and someone offered this up, so I bought it. Sorry I can't give you a supplier though I think there could be some aftermarket ones available. There is a guy on Facebook that does really good quality badges (Renwart), he may be able to help though.

Options 😜 Ringer Storm, or NOS Karmann.

I had mine refurbished by pastparts a few months back. I doubt they'd sell the seal kit separately, and they actually said on the phone that they get their seals from Spain which was why mine took so long to be returned. They usually have a few spare refurbished ones in stock and just exchange you unit when received, but apparently quite a few either exchanged or bought them straight over the early lockdown period.

It's the B6 dampers in the B12 'kit' so yeah. I don't know about the B4 dampers but imagine it would be, as they'll be the same length due to the application but will have a softer damping and won't be designed to run with a stiffer and shorter spring in the eibach.

Yeah the correct ones I have fitted now are 8512002. 👍 Good luck with Bilstein. As I put in the post you linked, their customer service was nothing short of disgraceful when I raised the issue with them directly.

Yeah I had them fitted with incorrect springs for a short while. They do sit lower, though probably only 5mm in it. I didn't immediately realise they were wrong as even the rear ride improved a lot over the Weitec coilovers that were on it before. It's not so much the height that's an issue though as much as the spring rate due to the length. The correct part rides so much better again and I'm really pleased with them now. If you bought them new from a genuine supplier, they should be able to sort it out for you.

Synta silver 10w40 is the dealer recommended, though they don't stock it anymore and instead stock Castrol Edge. A lot of us use 10w50 now as it seems to quieten the engine/valves down a touch. I use Fuchs Titan. For ease and cost, the Castrol semi 10w40 will suffice though and meets all VW Specs for oil, which I don't think the Mobil 1 does

Corrado graveyard on Facebook will have one. Good guy and reasonable prices too.

If you want to replace them, I'd just go with Pagid disks and pads. They're middle of the road as far as performance goes, and I've been fitting them to countless cars over the past 10 years without issue. Have a look on eurocarparts as they're always pretty cheap anyway, and there are discount codes pretty much all the time.

Yeah VW just sell Castrol Edge now. Makes it easier to purchase elsewhere much cheaper, as the Synta Silver was actually a very good price from VW. I've moved to Fuchs Titan pro race 10w50 now anyway though it is much more expensive, but a modern fully synthetic oil will be much better for our old and well worn in engines I think.

Rear axle is pretty easy, just keep the mounting bracket bolts loose until the car is back on the floor, roll the car forward a little as they'll move into the correct position then, and torque them up from there. Front subframe, the only thing worth mentioning as not in the Bentley is to mount the steering rack and connect the pipes loosely before raising and mounting it, as they're an absolute turd to get on in situ. Make sure the rack is centered too and the steering wheel is straight so the column lines up to the groove for the bolt. That's another PITA as the rubber boot gets in the way!

Price? colour? Mileage? Some photos would be useful.

I sold a set a couple of years ago as I preferred carpeted ones (have two sets now). The genuine carpet ones were going for decent money at the time too, though do wish I'd kept hold of them now tbh. 😔

Did I!? Lol, going senile in my old age as I can't remember that! 😂

Too tip with the Gummi Keyo, as your car is stored outside, put it on your door and boot seals as it'll stop them sticking and potentially ripping as they won't freeze. 👍

Hope you get a better result this time mate, I'd be pretty pissed tbh!

Welcome to the forum Frank! Good knowledge base here and friendly bunch who are happy to help wherever possible. Which colour Storm are you interested in (Classic Green or Mystic blue)? The above post is true, though a Storm will always hold sway over a standard 'spec'd' model rightly or wrongly. Keep an eye out here and also on the CCGB Facebook page for sales. Occasionally they come up on the mainstream sites but most of those are dealer cars and they'll add a fairly hefty margin for not always good cars. Buy on condition rather than mileage, and have a look through the WIKI section which has a buyer's guide - though it was written a fair few years ago now, but most things in there are still relevant. Best of luck with your search! 👍

If you PM me your email address, I'll send over a guide I've written for the sprinter magazine on how to test & repair yourself mate.

Looks very original, though certainly showing its mileage. Could do with a good valet too. Be interesting to see what this goes for.

One 10mm cable should be enough depending on how much load and the length you're running, with a sub main at the bottom as it'll be more economical and neater than running 2 X 10mm cables (they're pretty big and expensive). There is a calculator on the TLC website that'll work the cable size out for you if you know the load. Bear in mind that the cable should really be buried (hence the mention of fussy Sparky's). Mine was run behind my fence and supported every 50cm with clips.

Also perfect for the mounting of the aux belt guard. One of mine was missing, so I bought a batch of 5 from eBay and the mounting points are now fully populated!

It's the modern equivalent of the oily rag refurb that you mentioned earlier Si! 😆

It depends how anal your sparky is. I used 10mm swa to a shed at a sub main about 30m from the house. Everything including the swa, sub main consumer & RCDs was bought and run by myself. Its 100a at mains, supplies a 63 MCB at sub main for 6a RCD for lights, 32a sockets & 63a for hot tub. I've got a separate iso switch for the hot tub in the shed, though it's not connected yet as I've only got a 13a tub ATM - future proof. I paid £200 for the sparky to drill through the wall (2.5 ft of stone), install a JB and connect at the main consumer unit (which already had a spare RCD) then test to get the sign off and certs for building regs. Took him about an hour, but he wasn't fussy in all honesty.

I was lucky by the look of it then! No pin holes anywhere and only one mounting stud that was starting the crumble/separation at the welds which I managed to grind back. I think the fact that the sump and lower chain cover had been leaking so long it saved my bacon and gave the underside a misting of oil actually paid dividends! The only bit that needed welding was a couple of blobs to a 5p sized hole at one of the filler mounts. A mate with a mig sorted that for me, and a 2.5mm drill bit and tap sorted it perfectly. 👍

I didn't use it Si, I'm just going by previous reviews of it. It's available in Black, Grey & white. My underseal is either a very aged white or more like a beige/very light grey colour, so I ended up just using Upol Gravitex as it had been mooted as more like the factory texture - which I managed to get with it using a brush and dabbing. It's much more rubberised as well like the original stuff. Unfortunately due to the colour differences though, I couldn't feather the top coat in like the factory overspray as it just looked like what it was, a cover up of repaired bits. I ended up just painting the whole of the underside classic green in the end. Note; I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning all the oil and grime off first using thinners. I wouldn't recommend just dabbing a load of underseal over the too! I also wire wheeled/ground back any rust (luckily mine was only surface around a few of the mounting studs and lip), used bilt hamber deox gel, and layed on a fair few coats of etch primer and top coat before re-undersealing and more of the top coat.