Pete

Haha you'll be fine. I ate a naga a few months ago, containing the infamous ghost chill which always nails adam from man vs food. Was genuinely scared and it was REEEEALLY hot, but it wasnt that bad (in the scheme of things!)

Know what you mean, I've gone for 17" speedlines which are the oem wheel, because of the look I wanted, but to be honest there's just so much choice. If you like the euro Ps then also The Ronal turbo or aeros would be similar genre, or there's 5, 6 or multi spoke. If you want performance wheels ie lightweight then stuff like rota or team dynamics would be what I would look for.

I know I shouldn't like this but.... ;)

Just got in from watching judge dredd, I think it's the most OTT violent and brutal film I've ever seen, even more than robocop or the running man etc though it's all cartoony. Really enjoyed it despite some plot gaps it was a total blast (literally)!!!

I would hope for more but suspect your right, maybe try 4 with the wheels? Running the 55 would be bad but i had a supercharged v8 jaguar a few years back so I know the score...

I thought the Mercedes would end up being the majority of chat. Any ideas as to what to advertise the VW at price wise? Assume it would be better to sell the wheels separately?

Not strictly thread related but took the VX220 to llandow last weekend for a track day, good fun. Couple of pics... My mate driving, I must be mad! Out of the way please :)

Mate of mine is doing lots of commuting now so he is looking to sell his very nice Mercedes CLK55 AMG. Offer it to me at mates rates and I'm sorely tempted, but it means I would have to sell the corrado which I've only recently got just the way I want it. Those who have read my build thread will know its had a full respray, has some super rare 17" speedlines and new tyres about 2k ago and other bits, discrete but effective ICE, Weitec coil overs and full geo 2 months ago, spared for nothing blah blah and last week had a new fuel pump fitted and has absolutely zero faults... Chances of me getting another corrado like this one would be nigh on impossible and I don't think I would have the gumption to build another one like it, but the appeal of the speed, comfort and more modern merc is a strong draw as I have a VX220 which caters for my hardcore driving and track action. So, whether you like the merc or not etc, what's the concensus on whether or not to sell the corrado, and if so what you would put it on pistonheads for? Some of these prices online are a bit of a joke as far as I can see!

I put a new pump in, and also had to change the filter and filter the fuel as the old pump was breaking up with some swarf in the tank. Seems ok now, what happens if you go to ignition, and leave a few seconds before starting? fuel pump or valve will be orted then as its priming before you start it.

Same here, looking for 3 if I use my 15s for winter.

I was running those in my vx220 and they were fine, upgraded to R1R for track work :)

Very!

Yeah I did the three, though the downside now it a fair bit of vibration I'll look to change to vibratechnics in a year or two when money is flush. I was getting the judder, plus sometimes it would be accompanied by "squelch" noises, not sure what that was caused by, maybe engine movement was causing rubber/driveshaft case wiggle???

Love the wheels, nice stuff!!!

Mine is sorted, it was the engine mounts. You could move the engine with the palm of your hand about 3 inches.

The braided hoses help with pedal feel and response, because they are stiffer the don't move around so much and "tense up" when you push the pedal. I run my vx220 on a fast road/track setup with mintex abrasive pads on standard discs and the stopping power is immense, but I got even more eye watering improvement by fitting toyo R1R tyres to it so you can really lean on the brakes even more. That said the car is light so doesn't need that surface area to keep the brakes cool. Energy =1/2 Mass x velocity(sq).

Ooh, ooh, I know, I know!!!

I'll have a go. what everyone says is either partial or wholly correct, but you have to look at the thing in context. Does a bigger disc stop you faster? That depends on the total setup of the car, speed done and history of the journey etc. Will fatter tyres stop you faster? Again it depends on other elements of the set up. If you jam the brake on then your going to lock up whatever you have fitted, but if you don't hit the brake like a clutch pedal then you can modulate the braking yourself and as previously mentioned a large disc will help you apply more retardation force by dispersing the heat and providing more surface area for the pad to grip to. Small discs need the pad to pushed harder against it, like gripping something with your fingertips needs more effort. This makes the pad glaze over and means you need even more pedal force to stop, which will make you more likely to lock up. In that sense bigger discs WILL stop you faster. Also consider the hard braking scenarios needs to also be done in context. Is it your 15th hard stop in 3 minutes (ie on a track) where smaller discs will overheat much faster and you will have more brake fade. What is true is that other factors can be more immediate depending on the mix. Brake pad compound is a buch better part to tweak than disc size, though again its a trade off because better pads for hard driving don't always work so well from cold. Fatter tyres can make a startling improvement to braking, but if they are bald or hard rubber or it's very wet they will be worse. Stiffer suspension can help to a degree, but go too stiff and it can make it worse also. Sooooo..... Long story short if your doing 100mph, and hit the brake with some mechanical sympathy, you will slow down faster in a car with sticky tyres, bigger brakes and a warmed up brake pad with lots of abrasive content. That's why super cars and race cars run all of the above with sometimes ABS systems that run much higher pulse rates. Slam on at 30 in a car with 320mm discs but worn 165 tyres and oem pads and you'll skid very easily. So the answer is yes with an if, or no with a but hahaha

Anytime tony, it started during the rel warm weather we had about 5 weeks ago and hasnt gone away. It's always the same which makes me think maybe it's specific to one cylinder/spark plug/injector. Can you suggest any electric plugs etc I can spray with contact cleaner which might help? I don't know where all the wiring bits are located.

It kind of goes ch-ch-chug... and silence. Ignition off, then on, ch-ch-chug and it starts.

Here it is, my phone is pretty crap but the turn over is at 15 seconds in.. http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pete-r36/video-2012-08-27-10-19-53.mp4

Been having starting issues where the car tries to turn over but sometimes itll just die trying. If it does I have to go ignition off, on and then it normally starts. D&G Autotech recommended I change the fuel pump, which I have, but it's still doing it. I'm not very technically savvy, so apart from writing a blank cheque to a garage I'm not sure what to do next. Could it be something affecting one cylinder like a spark plug, injector or coil pack??? I'll try and video it today if it does it and post up. Chers, Pete.

No tank but I have a pond in the back garden. About 25 goldfish and koi mixed.

Been having similar issue. Is the engine trying to turn over? Have a listen at the rear for any whine from the fuel pump, if so consider new one as the pump might not be priming the fuel lines ready for the first attempt. The pump should be pretty much silent. Other things could be blocked injector, and you can get them cleaned, but to be honest that would probably be ore random and from what you describe it's doing it consistently. Does it idle smooth or lumpy? A rough idle is a sign of injector issues. If it were stuff like coils, plugs and leads etc it wouldn't be so predectable at the second attempt so I would look at fuelling first.

There are loads of ways to get the live in from the engine bay, into the passenger foot well is easiest, then run up the centre tunnel power on one side and phono on other. Connect the earth to one of the seat belt or seat mounting bolts and your done in terms of cable. Just need to find a place to mount it. It's easier than it sounds.