daves16v

Ok I can meet at Trowell services between J26 and 25. Any idea what time roughly you'll be there?

Nice work boosty.

Yeah Stealth is off at J21 onto M69. I'll come back to you on this in a few days to confirm. Cheers

So you'll be passing J25 on the M1?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?47278-A-Guide-4-to-5-Stud-Conversion&highlight=stud+conversion

That's handy to know it can be done DIY.

Ok panic over, I've sorted it now, got the Black temp sender and air intake temp sender plugs the wrong way round. That would explain why I had strange fan behaviour and an error on VCDS that I couldn't get rid of. It's all working properly now. So for those attempting this conversion watch out for those 2 Black plugs that are both 2 pin and are plugged in close to one another. Admittedly they are on completely separate looms - the Black temp sender is part of the cooling system loom, which doesn't need to be disconnected but I did it so I could wrap the wiring.

Nothing.

Have checked the label and there are no other letters other than the part number. ---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:43 PM ---------- Right I've been doing some further checks on my newly converted OBD2 just to put my mind at rest that everything is working as it should. Checked that the fan speeds and associated wiring is working as per the VR6 cooling guide on here. It's all working except for the 3rd fan speed, the one controlled by the Black sensor down by the thermostat housing. I've thoroughly checked the wiring for continuity from ground up through the plug and on to the ECU and it's all good. There is no other wiring on that circuit so now I'm thinking that the OBD2 ECU doesn't use the 3rd speed although the wiring and plug is present. Can anyone shed any light on this? It would be useful to know for this guide.

Dunno, how do I tell what ecu I have? I'm guessing it's on the label stuck to the top of it?

Not sure if you're directing questions to me, yes it is a VR from birth. It's all working now and no didn't need to delete the immob as it all worked from the word go.

Yeah that is a major part of the mechanism, can't be replaced easily. Slamming the door to close properly could be a badly adjusted door pin, the one on the body. Loosen with a 15mm spanner, adjust and re-tighten. It could be a problem with the lock mechanism on the door if not the pin. Adjust the door pin first.

Don't know anything about that system except that it was a dealer fit so I'm guessing that it has a separate loom so it shouldn't be a problem. If it's integrated into the Corrado loom you need to identify it and make sure you keep it intact. From what I've learnt the OBD2 loom is fairly basic if you follow the guide on here and use the Bentley manual where necessary.

Your handle is buggered, that part cannot easily be replaced. I've normally got some spare handles knocking around but not this time. As for your central locking have a look at this thread - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?51360-Central-locking-not-working-CHECK-YOUR-WIRING&highlight=central+locking Of course it could be something else like a knackered microswitch in the handle but check your wiring first.

You have to disengage the White clip on the left hand side first.

As promised - The distance from ball joint to shield is difficult to measure but is about 5mm.

Ok as promised here are the notes from my OBD2 conversion - I’ve made the notes below as there were some slight differences in my Golf obd2 loom to the loom described earlier in this guide. You should follow the above guide as normal and refer to my notes if required. On my obd2 loom there was a large 12 pin Black connector which wasn’t mentioned in any guides I’ve read. Don’t worry if you don’t have this connector as the wiring will have been delt with earlier in this guide. After removing connectors as per the above guide you should be left with 3 wires which I’ve identified as going to the ECU. In this photo Golf loom on the left, Corrado on the right. You need to remove the connectors from the Corrado loom and join them as shown. These will then plug into the Corrado fusebox. MFA outside sensor wiring was different – remove crimps from White connector (not shown) and relocate to these connectors, wires Red/White (left hand side) and Brown (right hand side). Wire positions in both White connectors are bottom row, 1st pin on the left as viewed in this photo. These 2 wires (aux pump and temp sender) run from the multi-plug on the Golf loom and need to be connected to the Yellow 2 pin plug below taken from the Corrado loom. This is the yellow plug that needs to cut off the Corrado loom and joined to the wires in the photo above. After removing wiring from the Golf loom I was left with these 2 Black (Brown inside) earth wires. 1 comes from the ECU, the other from the multi-plug, they need to be joined. The Golf loom grommet is too big for the hole in the Corrado bulkhead so I filed the hole out to make it fit. This proved to be a long winded job as the newly filed hole has to be thoroughly de-burred, if the grommet still doesn’t fit which happened to me 3 times you have to start the filing/de-burr process again. The ECU loom grommet is also the wrong size so I cut the Corrado loom to get the grommet off and slid it over the ECU onto the loom, sadly I cut too much off and now the loom isn’t held tightly but at least it’s protected from the bodywork. I’ll sort out a solution later. The Lambda sensor plug does not fit the bracket, for now I cable tied it on. It does actually fit but is larger than the Corrado plug and interferes with the other plug mounted in the same bracket. I’ve since made a new bracket. Finished loom pics - If you’re using the transponder box, ring and key you will need to wire the 5 wires from the 6 pin plug as follows – 2x Brown to earth. 1x Black to ignition live, I used one of the Black connector blocks on the front of the fusebox, this is where it takes it’s power from on the Golf fusebox albeit via another connector. 1x Grey/White wire on a Brown socket to be connected to corresponding plug in the fusebox, you can see the single wire Brown plug in the photo above. 1x Grey wire with a Brown connector plugs directly into the block behind the dash just behind the gear shifter. Don't be confused with the connector block under the gear shifter surround, you want the connector block behind the dash. You can get to it by removing the lower driver side shelf. This wire provides diagnostic function using VAG-COM/VCDS. Hope this helps.

The loom to the bottle is part of the Corrado loom, just need to change the bottle plug.

Rob, I'm thinking about making them. Coolant bottle from the dealer. There's a thread somewhere about changing to the Mk4 coolant bottle but it's not just a case of swapping the bottle.

Pete, yeah I've got a spare, just needs bending. Hasan, I'm not totally sure but I would say yes you will need the OBD2 sensor. It's really not worth mixing parts, if you want OBD2 don't skimp.

New lambda bracket done.

Can you take the handle out and post a pic, I might be able to workout what's up. Pull the handle out just enough to get a shot.

Jay, if you have any left over next month after the group buy could you let me know? Cheers Dave

Sorry Jay, going to have to pull out of this.

Well there isn't a lot to see under the bonnet regarding the OBD2 conversion. I did run out of harness tape so there is some wiring to tidy. The Golf loom is indeed longer than the Corrado loom so I've looped it, you can just see it behind the expansion tank. New stud mounted cable ties. One problem that I've got and suspect others will come across it or already have is that the Lambda plug that is mounted in the bracket has a bigger body so interferes with the other plug. The slot in the bracket is the correct size but is just too close to the other plug. I've had to cable tie it to the bracket so I'm going to make a new bracket that will accommodate both comfortably. The new rad elbow is on, is a perfect fit and doesn't leak. One other thing that I've been meaning to do is swap a coolant pipe, I'll let the photo tell the story lol................yes it's copper pipe which was painted Black on top, you're looking at the underside.