bcstudent

Good luck :) Might I suggest keeping a hold of the Sebrings? I used to run on 17s and, even with standard suspension, the ride and steering feel was hideous. It's a much better car on the standard wheels.

Wouldn't you expect that to act similarly under hot or cold running conditions though? The closed-throttle switch operates the idle stabilisation valve and the over-run cut-off valve. There aren't many temperature-dependant systems on the K-Jet injection. I can only think of the warm-up regulator and the thermo time switch for the cold start injector.

Has the car had a full fuel-pressure test? It sounds highly like a fuel problem to me and that's the only real way you're going to find it I think. I'm thinking maybe the warm-up regulator is iffy and making the car run overly rich. Do you know what the warm-engine CO level is?

My money's on 2.0 16v. Roll up roll up...

That'll be the ignition -> solenoid wire then! Nice one :)

Try putting a live straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. If it turns over then start looking at the ignition switch, if not then change the starter and solenoid.

A K-Star is a mappable ignition controller that, I believe, piggy-backs on to the standard ignition module.

The car doesn't really have an ECU. There's a controller for the electronic ignition but since the fuel injection system is 100% mechanical there are no sensors to store faults for. There's also a small controller for the idle stabilisation and over-run cut-off but it's very simple. The 2.0 16v uses a KE-Motronic system, which is more or less the same K-Jetronic fuel system as the 1.8 16v but with some additional electronic control to reduce emissions. It has a small amount of diagoistic capability.

If that was true there wouldn't be a FWD class. It's just a different set of driving challenges to the other classes. The only thing that would stop me using a Corrado is the relative spares shortage compared to something like a Golf.

They don't ususally. £100 plus postage is more likely.

It's getting a bit late to be thinking too hard, but I'd say 'yes, the rev counter should work'. Isn't there a difference between the 16v and G60 vacuum sender on the back of the clocks though? Your MFA may not work properly if you swap the clocks complete.

It's your car chap. I couldn't care less what you do to it :) Anyone that does have a problem with it needs to remove their head from their backside.

Don't worry about it and start looking for problems that aren't there. My 1.8 16v is exactly the same and unbelievable heavy on fuel unless on a run. I generally get 30-32mpg average with a mixture of town and local B-road driving; the MFA usually reads pretty close to that. £40 gets me no further than about 300 miles and my car runs absolutely perfectly. It's just an ancient fuel-injection system invented in the days when fuel was very cheap!

Fibre-glass chassis?! Surely TVR use something a bit more substantial for a chassis than fibre-glass...like tubular steel?

Maybe he's a member of a forum whose other members are all voting...

Oh. My. God.

To vote, select the 'virtual show and shine' from the menu and scroll down to the bottom of the page. Pick your car, hit the vote button, job done.

Cheers mate, guess there must be a lot of voting going on! Where in Norwich are you BTW? My girlfriend used to live there (parents still do in a village just outside) :) I actually live a little way outside Norwich too; about 15 miles northeast in a town called North Walsham. I put Norwich because it's the closest place most people will have heard of.

Voted..still 2%

Don't get me wrong, I hated driving the car 99% of the time. The ride was truly awful for a daily driver. There are plenty of kits out there that will provide a decent ride at -40mm. Weitec for one.

I fitted a PSX kit to a Mk2 Golf GTI a few years back. It lowered the car by 40mm and was rock hard. On a smooth road though, the car was awesome.

Ok, keep us informed and I'll make sure I cross my fingers for you.

I'm sure the rev counter in both types of clocks is going to be the same.

There's no need to replace the whole distributor, unless you can pick one up on the cheap; the Hall sender is available as a separate part. I'll be surprised if that's your problem though if I'm honest. It sounds to me more like a fuel problem. How many miles has the car done?

Yeah, that's a pretty normal level for my coolant to sit at too. The car hardly uses any water but if I leave it for several months I can get a litre or so in. Regardless of how much is needed to bring it back to the maximum mark, it never drops below a certain point in the header bottle. I'm not exactly sure why but it was the same on my previous two Mk2 GTIs as well.