Flexso

Im actually one of the guys who has cheaped on my vr6. It was a bit of a dog when I got it. Just hadnt been looked after. It was on 126k with sh upto 90k, T&T. It had a few bodge job repairs and bits of interiors missing. So far the major things that have happened are the fan motor catching on fire and a hose and plastic housing spiltting 200 miles from my home. I like to mess around fixing my car so its fine for me. Plus I didnt have the money to pay for a minter. As long as you dont mind getting your hand dirty they can be fine.

If thats the case, fair enough. I was just suprised to see that they were that difference in price.

Right guys. Im going to be buying a set of these shortly. Im confused as the golf vr6 hoses are about £40 less than the Corrado ones? Is there any difference?

Yeah I think so. There doesnt seem to be very many. They are the ones with the weirdly stitched cloth seat. (looks like rope style material)

Hello, There is few people on here that have done the conversion. So you should be able to get the help you need. AGU dont have throttle bodies that run on cable. The throttle body is electric. You can buy throttle bodies which will use the usual cable. The engine will mount straight onto the current engine mount positions, G60 engine mount rubbers are quite good for this conversion aswell. Some people have used a company called Qpeng for the engine mangement side but other have used the the modified VW harness. Check out 20v Forced induction thread.

VW hoses are just as good unless you have a real desire to go for performance hoses. VW may work out slightly more expensive if you replace every single hose going (some of mine had been done over the last few years so I didn't need to do all of them) but theres not a lot in it. Nurburgring is on the cards for the end of the year so will prob be best to for performance. I was wondering if there were any other companies other than Samco who do these?

What would be the cause of the excess pressure on the system? The guy from RAC hose job was nearly three times longer than the original hose that ripped? Would that of caused it? It's unlikely, as long as it was the right bore it doesn't really matter how long it was - the only thing that would change is a slight increase in the amount of water needed to fill the system up. Excess pressure in the coolant system is a head gasket problem in most cases. Or it was just down to an old hose that has had to much of getting hot over the last 15 years and just weakened. That's all it was in my case anyway. I just couldnt believe that once we fixed the hose. The engine ran upto temp and then seemed to still creep up before the fan kicked in. Then litterly at the same time the fan came on, the plastic water housing cracked.

Me and The rac guy checked for air pressure and we seemed to get all the bubbles out of the system. Im so gutted that my car is stuck in exeter. Does anyone know the best place to get samco hoses or another brand?

What would be the cause of the excess pressure on the system? The guy from RAC hose job was nearly three times longer than the original hose that ripped? Would that of caused it?

Is the lower temp fan switch something you could get for the dealers? I think that is gonna have to be a definite buy. Anyone know where the best place to get Samco Coolant kit from? Or is their any alternate companies other than Samco?

Also just before the water housing went the water temp went upto just short of 100 degree!!! Is there something you can do to make the fan motor come on at a lower temp?

Hello All, Well I will start of by saying I am fuming that my car decided the tear a water hose 200 miles from my home. After the RAC replaced it. The **** plastic housing that contains the thermostat cracks. What a joke. Well after paying for a £100 ticket and a 4 1/2 hour journey on a crap train I got home. :bad-words: I have decided that I will never let this happen to me again. So I need everyone help on what parts to replace? I have seen on the web that there are certain parts in the water system that are current plastic but can be replace for metal parts. I think the plastic housing ontop of the rad is one of these. Does anyone know where I can get these parts from? Thanks

Those are your fuel injectors. 16v corrados work on what called mechanical fuel injection, so that the way they laid them out. Same as above though mate. Take the bottom off the box holding the filter and drill loads of holes in it.

That makes thing even more tempting! How dangrous. So in theory for a basic S/C set up can be had with the following, Supercharger kit (brackets, pulley etc) plus plumbing inc recirc valve etc. original ECU barely modified sump. And a shoe horn.... :D That is a very small list. There must be other essential parts that you need?

Thanks for the answer Kev, So there is really not that much to it? I can see why its so popular to supercharged a vr6. :D How did you find using a supercharged VR as your everyday car? Also hhen running 250 - 280bhp will the standard ecu work well with a remap, or would you need Standalone?

Sorry Guys this is completely off of your current discussion. But Im just intreged about the layout of a VR6 supercharged and had a couple of questions (I saw 3 supercharged VR6 at a meet last night!) 1. with a supercharger running 6 to 8 psi, do you need to change the compression on the pistons? 2. Is it necessary to have a recirc valve on these? Would you be able to use a dump valve? 3. Do you have to relocate the carbon canister (i think its called that) for the intake or can you just remove it? 4. At what psi is it essential to cool the air flow? (intercooler etc) I know these are probably view simple questions for you forced induction boys. Thanks

I have just replaced mine. VW wanted £120 think it was for leads. I got mine from GSF. a compnay called BBT. They are sweet as a nut and cost half the price.

Hi, I had a misfire on my VR6. Turned out to be MAF connection was loose. That was it. It misfired but also idled very rough. If the MAF connection is fine. It may well be ignition comps. So check plug and leads to start with. If you havent changed the plugs then give them a change. If the problem continues then you might have to look into new coilpack/dizzy cap etc. (depending on year) Hope this helps.

Great read. What an absolute find!!! I bet the guys eye balls nearly fell out when he opened that barn!

Agreed, think get down by 7.30ish. Shame the chav have decided that they are welcome.

Third photo is very cool. Was good to meet you the other month at no rice. You heading down there for septembers meets?

Hi Jay, I actually went to see the this car when it was up for sale. Do you mind me asking how much you got it for in the end?

Your gonna hate me for saying this Tom but I think you should do a direct feed for the live. ie straight from the battery. Have you tried disconnecting the live the the exhaust and seeing if the hazards work again? Or you could take the feed from the headunit live wire as Im pretty sure in saying that is a direct feed.

Mate the brakes on that thing are awesome. Are they 312? Stopping must be instant. I was reading early on in the thread that you took your car to surrey RR. Might be worth popping it on another dyno to compare the outcome. I bet money on a different RR that your VRT will show over 300bhp. God I want to Turbo my VR6!!! Shame its an everyday runner. Just wouldnt be practical.

Hi Matt, I had an upper and lower front strut on my mk1 golf gti cabriolet. Really made the ride solid. Not sure with a corrado, but im putting a front and rear strut on mine for when I go to the Nurburgring in November. I used OMP on my mk1. I have got JOM for the front upper for the vr6. Dont know if that help. For just everyday driving its more of a show item.