2cc

Ha, I can see I'll have to keep an eye on you next time you are 'in my yard' Nick lol Good spot though, I shall go and have a look see for myself when I've done on here

here you go, these are pics from my chain replacement, so lots of bits removed. 288 shows the master cyl on the left under the bit of string, and 301 shows where the slave is.

Dunno m8, often wondered meself :lol:

:D

Assume this is with shorter springs? I don't think this is totally unexpected, as with the front where there's slightly more weight to one side so it won't be dead level, the back will probably be similar in that there will also be a slight difference. But measuring can be tricky as Phil says and may not be as bad as you think. Or, since the rear Konis do have height adjust circlips, you could check they are in the same grooves (5 of them IIRC). Also, have you changed/shortened the rear bump stops, depending how accurate you were can also affect the height; I tried loads of setting combinations on my valver before I got her sitting right. HTH a bit.

Just had a quick look. Yep, am liking that, nice and uncluttered and easy to nav - not like a lot I've been to

You couldn't make this stuff up could you. Wonder if all the fighter jocks will have to turn off their HUDs? Could be we'll be in for a lot more smoking holes in the low flying areas :roll:

Bummer, so sorry to see this. Hope you don't suffer any lasting effects, and fingers crossed for the C

Another flying visit but still time to post my Best Wishes for Christmas and the New Year to all you Corrado loving guys and gals out there. And especially to Andi and the Mods for running this here show - cheers chaps :reindeer: :reindeer: :reindeer: :reindeer: :reindeer: :reindeer: :x-mas:

excusez moi mon ami, mais que dit vous?

oh sh*t sorry to see that glad you're ok tho' and hope you can get her fixed up

:lol: :lol: :lol: Almost fell off me chair (think i'll get me one for xmas)

Hello, and welcome

cheers Darren

Cool, glad it's sorted, that's often the trouble with replacement parts.

Bummer mate, but I agree with supercharged thinking they're the wrong parts. You don't have to disturb the hub position to change the inner CVs so if the new ones are now 'tight' then I'd deffo suspect them. I'm surprised if ALL Cs have the same inner CV as I thought there was a difference in drive shaft diameters - but I don't really know. Can someone with ETKA confirm part numbers? Might throw something up. Sorry, doesn't help at all.

sorry, I haven't got a/c so was a guess at best

you test it on the car, have a look here http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mtesting.htm

all the above and could also be the 'gash' drop link where ARB meets wishbone but, sorry, could be almost anything that has come loose in eng bay/front end.

How interesting. My 1990 16V has got female threads on the rack (original and I have the part number somewhere) I wonder if your rack has been changed at some time and may not be the right one? I'm sure someone with fully functional ETKA could identify for you if you gave them the chassis No.

How's the diagnosis Neil, you getting anywhere?

Remove the sub-frame, it really is the easiest way though you do need to support the engine (I have a cross beam). The rack bolts are splined close to the head and are nearly impossible to remove from the sub-frame without knocking them through from on top, which of course cannot be done in situ otherwise removal would be simplicity itself. Be real careful when reconnecting the PAS pipes to the rack - in fact my recent experience cross threading one say disconnect both the pipes from the pump and reservoir and assemble to the rack on the work-bench. Don't forget new sealing rings (part number is at home) they only cost pennys, new bolts and rubber mounting bush. I was going to post a KB article after mine but that's in re-build at the mo.

Hub noise on lock usually down to CV joint, but more usually makes metallic clicking sound rather than soft rhythmic noise, so this may be the bearing just starting to go. If its only a gentle noise then I probably wouldn't start to worry about it just yet. The pad noise often will often occur with very light braking and is absent when braking at reasonanble pressure; just a factor of light pad contact with the disc or tiny bits of grit trapped on the pad. Random ABS light almost certainly a wheel sensor. Either clean them all or if that fails vag com it to identify offending one. HTH

From what you say it sounds like a 'sudden' event, ie one day no noise, next day have noise. Would therefore not immediately suspect engine/clutch area as these tend to produce noises more gradually with wear, though admit my release arm suddenly started rattling when it started to crack and bend. Tend to agree more likely to be something come loose, though the cat shield (a common problem on a VR) makes a high tinny rattle rather than a 'grating' sound as you describe

:lol: :lol: Had to be you mate