2cc

for a man of your calibre should have it done in an hour m8, lol

wot, no cillit bang round your way? Barry will be disappointed

nice sofa Daz nice lookin shed too good one chap

Yes m8 you have bits missing. Have a look in the Knowledge Base, Clutch & Timing Chains Pt2, near the end, there is a pic of "Bonnet Release Cable" But you will still need to source the bits, either new or a wreck. Expect goof uses the same bits so should be loads around

Mark, that is weird isn't it. Thought about it on the way home last night and the only thing I can think of that could possibly cause that is very worn sprockets and/or very worn/stretched chains. Wish I'd done a rotation check on the old ones before replacing my chains now. Almost goes without saying that my new ones are spot on. Haven't read the whole thread before writing this so can't recall whether you have just reassembled with new bits or not? But I'm definitely curious about this now, especially as I have a couple of chain jobs queued up for when my garage is finished - not long now. edit: just looked at page one, new chains. So am even more curious now

yep, dealer did that to my valver, but did replace everything with new when I took it back to complain. Personally though Angela, I would not use anything other than vag parts on the hubs as have found other parts are not long term cost effective, and I don't trust them especially if load bearing.

I'm guessing here, but it happens on mine sometimes, the pedal will catch on part of the dash undertray. Makes a very nice cracking plasticky noise. No idea why the bite point has changed though

Was looking to see how you were doing, but this says it all :lol:

:lol: :lol:

When you refit the bearing nut the washer behind it should be reasonably easy to move side to side with a screwdriver. Do it up too much and the bearing will fail again quite quickly

It's hydraulically operated, there is no adjustment. Bite point determined by condition of master/slave seals, fluid, wear in clutch plate and linkages

Just a thought, which end are you looking at when you say clock or anti-clock? If you are turning it backwards then the marks will not line up as the 'slack' side of the chain, rather than the tensioned side, will pull the cams.

Don't want to be a doommonger, but had that on my valver after a bearing change. Actually, the brakes squealed whilst driving, very annoying, found they'd bent the hub flange so it was running out of true. They refitted the lot new foc when I took it back though.

I did a how to guide on here; might be worth a read :wink: (admit there are a couple of bits still need editing tho', must do that one day)

It is a little cramped in there. From what you say the 12v is being switched correctly, but the control circuit also has to switch the earth connection at the same time; unfortunately, the test you have done does not prove the earth connection is being made. Best bet is to pull both wires off the motor (note which colour goes on which terminal) You will need a couple of lengths of spare wire to earth one motor terminal to the chassis and then put 12v on the other terminal. If the motor doesn't move it will mean one of two things 1. motor is dead 2. You've given it a 'down' control when it already is (down). Connect wires other way round and see what happens. HTH

Hi there, looks like a good buy you got there. No doubt we'll see you around soon

harumph, won't run at work

everyone's said it already

That's a bob or three of anyone's money Very interested to see the report on them though m8 By the by, is the steering fix still behaving?

oops, must be an age thing. Don't recall the cobra involvement but have seen various reports of the jag down the years. Wish I'd been there at the time though

Eric, so when we go to Karmann are we fixing Rocco brakes or Corrado aircon? :lol: Come down in her tomorrow and stay and we can have a look at her in the workshop on Sunday if you like or have they (supposedly) fixed her?

Nope, that was always blamed on the Coventry boys trying to get an E-Type up to the alleged top speed of 150mph on the then new M1. Expect they frightened some old dear in a Herald or something. Henny, spot on with the observations on the Cobra body. And for interest the handling of the original is pretty dire, 60's suspension components, crap brakes etc. The later kit cars are actually much better/safer to drive. But, I freely admit, will produce far less trouser adrenaline and, given the choice, I'd have the original no question.

Steve, Yes, the PIs are progressively wound Yes, I have loads of pix at home (at work right now) I'll either post some here or pm you later, probably be Sunday as I'm at Castle Coombe tomorrow.

Give Trimsport a bell, Morris or Lance will be only too pleased to help if you're having trouble with it.

:)