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My work colleague has some spare parts from his previous MK4 Golf (4 motion) 2.8 (2001) 3 door. This is the list of parts he has left, if anyone is interested. 1) O/S complete door £90 ono (colour is black) comes with door handle, door lock, window glass, window regulator, and wiring loom. 2) N/S complete door £90 ono (colour is black) comes with door handle, door lock, window glass, window regulator, and wiring loom. 3) New drive shaft with new bolts £60 (I believe it's the passanger side one) ? Will update in the next few days regarding which side it is. 4) Original TSW 17" wheels £100 for the set of 4 (Will possibly need a refurb) 5) New beige leather centre console armrest £60 (Fits between front sests) The part number I think is ( 3B0 867 174 Q70 ) I'll confirm the part number in the next few days. If you're interested he'll probably do a deal on the prices for you. The guys name is Paul, he is based in Bournemouth. His contact email is below: [email protected] Alternatively send me a PM and I'll speak to him at work and let you know. Many thanks Si

I've found someone on the VW VORTEX FORUM whose actually managed to measure the plastic / nylon guide, the one from the Corrado but they did this back in October of 2015, his Forum name is (CYBERSTASI) but he hasn't been on the Forum for almost 2 years now. The only other person to speak to on that Forum is (ERIC D) who was on the VORTEX FORUM yesterday, if you send him a PM he might be able to help. Here's a link below to the thread I found on the VW VORTEX FORUM https://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7246685-Anyone-have-a-Corrados-Shifter-Lever-guide-I-can-borrow I've had a search but can't find any other info regarding the measurements you need, the only measurements I can find are for the MK3 Golf selector shaft on the VW Classic Parts site. Si

Hello there, have a read of the thread below in the link look at the last post on page 2, there's a list of possible VW vehicles that share the part in question. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91991-VR6-Dashpot-replacement-part/page2 Si

I'll check through the Bentley manual this evening after work, plus I'll have another search online after work to see if I can find anything else. But other then that you might have to post up a new thread in the wanted section, to see if anyone has a new one that they're willing to measure the dimensions of for you. Or it's to contact your local VW Dealer and see if they're able to help or not, depending if that info is available still on their Parts database. The only other possibility is to contact VW Classic Parts in Germany to see if they've got any info regarding the item in question, or to see if it's a part they might reproduce ?? Si

Here's a link to the MK3 Golf gear shaft. The part number is 357 711 112C https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/schalthebe-3309e3.html The Corrado gear stick shaft is still obsolete sadly. Si

Hello there, I don't know the measurements of the item in question, but the part number I think is 357 711 112D for the whole selector gear shaft as I don't think you can purchase the plastic / nylon guide on it's own, you have to purchase the whole shaft, but the problem is it's been obsolete for a few years now, I've had a look on VW Classic Parts but looks as if it's still not available at the moment. I believe some people have replaced the whole shaft for the MK3 Golf one as that is actually listed on Classic Parts, the only snag is you might have to change a few other bits over to make the MK3 Golf shaft fit correctly. Also I think the MK3 one is slightly taller but only just, and the plastic / nylon guide is slightly wider than the Corrado one. But like I say I don't think you can just purchase the plastic guide, you have to get the whole shaft. Si

You all probably know about this already it may of been on the news, I'm not sure. I'm not on Facebook myself but my anti virus software flashed up a warning regarding the security of people's details a few days ago and again this evening. This is what it says below: ********************** On Friday, September 28, 2018 Facebook said that an attack on its computer network had exposed the personal information of nearly 50 million users.The attackers exploited the "View As" feature that allows users to see their Facebook page the way someone else would. This could allow the attackers to take over Facebook accounts. Facebook has fixed this issue and informed law enforcement. They also do not know if the affected accounts were misused or if user information was actually accessed. ********************** Si

On my 16v Corrado about 10 years ago it had a rough idle problem, which after a couple of days developed into the engine cutting out, basically my idle control valve (ISV) was shot, I tried cleaning it out which helped only very slightly, so in the end I purchased a new one from VW Main Dealer when they were still available, along with a new coolant temp switch as my engine was flooding with fuel, and that sorted it for me. But on yours from what you've said, and in your video on YouTube it appears to be surging at idle, when you've checked your vacuum hoses and if they're ok then it could be the throttle body is choked up, or slightly blocked where the bypass breather / vacuum hose to idle control valve goes. Also a faulty idle control valve (ISV) can sometimes cause the idle speed to sit slightly above 1000RPM, they do get fairly choked up inside and the inner valve can be difficult to clean as you can't really take them apart, you can only try to clean them with carb cleaner or possibly brake cleaner as a last resort, but it's usually hit and miss or if it does work the fault will still return. Si

Also I think on the 16v and VR6 Corrado's there's a small recirculate valve to help control the emissions, it's on the back of the air filter box or near that area, it's got two vacuum hoses, one from the fuel vapor canister, and then the other goes to I think the throttle body or inlet manifold, again check those vacuum hoses because they can sometimes split, but not enough to bring up a fault code but enough to effect the idle / running. Si

Is your battery charging ok via the alternator as well, because Jim whose a member on this Forum has a slight surging idle which I think possibly was down to a weak battery and weak output from alternator, which can flag up strange fault codes when scanning the ECU due to erratic voltage. Also check vacuum hoses around the throttle body, and idle control valve as again that can cause the engine to surge or have rough idle. Si

To be honest the VAGCOM scanner / software is pretty reliable, when it detects any errors and brings up a fault code 9 times out of 10 like I say it's normally correct. For some reason VW / Audi and a few other VAG vehicles tend to have problems with the MAF sensors, they don't seem to last as long as other manufacturers, from what I've seen on different sites / forums. The Air Flow sensor (MAF) can sometimes cause the revs to surge up and down erratically, it really depends what part of it is damaged or how it's burnt out. A faulty lambda sensor usually cause the ECU to go into limp mode, and enrich the fuel mixture which is why the engine can feel lumpy and down on power slightly. But like I say it really depends how the sensor has burnt out, as it can sometimes bring up a secondary error code which is on a similar circuit within ECU. Also check your main air intake plastic hose from air filter box to throttle body, because if that's split it can sometimes bring up the MAF fault code. I've recently replaced my Mass Air Pressure sensor (MAP) on my later type MK3 Polo, as that was surging from cold, and still once engine was up to temp, I connected up my diagnostic scanner and it showed the fault was my MAP sensor, so replaced it and it's been fine. I know the MAF sensor is usually connected to the air filter box, where as the MAP sensor is fitted into the inlet manifold, but they have similar symptoms when they play up. Si

The 4 cylinder engines by the looks of it share the knock sensors between them with part number 054 905 377 The first 3 digits of part number vary, and they come in various connector plug colours and cable lengths, which is possibly why Bauhaus above was able to use one from a MK2 Golf. Realistically you probably could fit one from a VR6 but as Bauhaus above has said you really need the correct knock sensors for your Corrado, mainly due to the cable length as each length of cable / wire will have a different resistance reading which is why they're calibrated to control unit, and why they have the different coloured connector plugs I guess. Si

I think the (AH) stands for amp's per hour or something like that, and (CCA) is cold cranking amp's, as long as you get a replacement battery the same AH rating or slightly lower is fine or - by 5 to 8 AH is still acceptable but I wouldn't go any higher than original spec as the alternator will be working over time, possibly as the battery won't reach full charge as quickly as it would if it had original AH spec or slightly lower. I would only go to a higher AH spec if you've got a massive stereo amp or other added electronics that draw more amp's so to speak. Si

Hello Rob have a read of the info in the attached link below it shows all the good and bad points with Ceramic Coating. https://exclusivedetail.com/ceramic-coating-for-cars/ For me personally I'd probably go for the paint protection film as it normally lasts 3 to 4 years, before it needs reapplying again & gives miles better protection against stone chips, scratches and other marks. The Ceramic Coating doesn't seem to protect anywhere near as good as the paint protection film from stone chips, I remember seeing some of the cars having the paint protection film on them over 20 years ago when I used to work for Peugeot, mainly when the new 406 and 206 first came out. Apparently the Ceramic Coating has fairly good protection against the sun's UV rays, but doesn't stop any paint fading or damage but generally just slows it's affects down. It really depends what you're looking for Rob as regards to paint protection, but either way I'd definitely get a professional to apply which ever coating you decide. Si

Corrado's can rust anywhere to be honest, but the most common places I've seen are: 1) around battery try = M2 Golf battery repair panel fits our Corrado's with a little fabrication. 2) front edge of bonnet from stone chips 3) drives front wing around A-pilar low down 4) drivers lower section of A-pilar 4A) also they rust higher up the A-pilar especially if the windscreen has been replaced in the last 12 plus years. 5) doors can rust mostly at the bottom 6) outer sills can rust at the front, but mostly at the back what I've seen. 7) O/S/R and N/S/R quarter panels can rust. 8 ) rear panel can rust low down or at the top joining seam where the boot rubber seal fits to. 9) boot floor can be pitted in areas. 10) fuel neck support panel can rust, basically the same as MK2 Golf / MK3 Golf. 11) rear wing where fuel flap is they get rust around that area sometimes. 12) rear chassis legs can rust through sometimes. Si

Hello there and welcome to the Corrado Forum, sorry to hear about your parents house, the main thing is like you say they're both ok. In my opinion the Corrado is a great Grand Tourer, they handle so well and look pretty good even by today's standards. Ok so you say your Dad's Corrado has been sat around for the last 15 years, it'll probably want a engine and gearbox oil change, more then likely need a new battery. Plus even before anyone attempts to start it up, I'd be inclined to turn the engine over by hand just to make sure it still feels free. Also a lot of the plastic and rubber parts could be perished including the tyres. It'll need a good look over underneath to make sure it's still structurally sound. Once new battery is fitted if it needs one that is, and the engine is ok to turn over (start up) then you can get someone to inspect the electrics as you've said it developed an issue in 2003 or 2004. If you get a garage i.e a mechanic to do all the required work, it will more then likely cost a couple of thousand if the repair list is long. If I were you I'd get someone to fully inspect your Dad's Corrado from top to bottom, and then you'll be able to see the full picture, then you can decide if it's worth doing. Si

Hi Anna I've started a new thread regarding the above item, when you guys at Heritage have any update, please post up in the attached thread, or if I hear anything I'll post up. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?108692-Part-number-191-803-483-(fuel-filler-neck-repair-panel)&p=1213925#post1213925 Many thanks Si

I originally posted in the OEM VW PARTS PRICE ENQUIRES thread regarding part number 191 803 483 It's listed as fuel neck repair panel for MK3 Golf but looks like it will fit the MK2 Golf and our Corrado's. I've been searching for a while to see where I can get one from as mine is rusted through, erm I've tried VW Heritage but they're sold out, they are how ever in the process of getting 1000 remade which possibly won't be available until early next year 2019 I've been lucky to have found a new replacement repair panel, I've since drilled out the spot welds and removed my old part, comparing the new panel with my old one, they are a perfect match so the new batch that VW Heritage will have available hopefully early next year, will be fine for our Corrado's I believe. I found the part on Ebay and payed just over £60 for it, but it's since gone up in price to £140 which is just ridiculous. Ebay item number 330887096333 So if you need this item, like I say it hopefully will be available again in 2019 I'll keep my old fuel neck support panel for now, just so I can check it against one of the new batch from VW Heritage once they have them in stock again. Si

Yeah that's got 520 CCA so that should be fine Jim. Si

Jim I think you can either go for a standard battery which will normally have something like 330 to 450 cold cranking amp's (CCA) Or for a few ££ more you can get a heavy duty battery which will have roughly from 490 to 600 (CCA) Your old battery should say on the top or side on the label, what the Cold Cranking Amp is. Si

Jim your alternator you can get overhauled for roughly £60 but depends where you take it to of cause. Regarding your battery if it's low on charge or loosing charge, that can cause some of the electrics to do crazy things including some of the engine sensors to not send correct signals to ECU, or sometimes the diagnostic scanner may not read the ECU correctly due to erratic voltage so to speak. Jim I'd get the alternator / battery sorted first, then do another scan when you've got correct voltage. Si

Jim I've just connected up my scanner which is (AUTEL MAXIDIAG) to my VW Polo and in live data that shows 14.2v to 14.3v with engine running. On your VAGCOM it should show the same as above in live data, unless like I say it only shows battery voltage at diagnostic plug ? Si

I think your battery voltage should show as 14v to 14.2v max on scanner with engine running, unless on VAGCOM it just shows battery voltage at diagnostic plug. Jim double check your charging rate out of alternator with a multimeter, just to be sure. Si

Jim how did you fix the pickup plate for the cam sensor, did you fit a new sprocket or were you able to bend it back into shape / alinement ? Your fog lights could be a fuse blown or possibly a reply ? Your issue with the engine surging in rhythm with the hazards, could possibly be a bad earth somewhere or like you say a weak battery. Jim check your charging rate coming out of alternator, then check the charging rate across your battery, erm you should have 13.5v to 14v. You'll normally see slightly more voltage from the back of alternator compared to that across the battery, but they shouldn't be that far out. Also check the battery voltage with engine switched off, you should see at least 12v or just under, if you see the voltage continuing dropping down to 11v or 10.5v or even lower on your multimeter, then chances are your battery is going. Si

Hi Jim have a read of the thread in the attached link below, it might help as it gives good info on the MAF sensor. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?4438-VR6-MAF-problems-(or-not!)-the-saga-continues Robbo149 posted up in the above link back in 2004, think he possibly had a fault / problem with his Cam Position Sensor. Si