vw rule

:shocked!: Yeah I know, oh well :lol: Si

Possibly could cause an issue unless you've blanked off the vacuum hoses. Looks like the fuel vapor purge valve recirculates, the vented off fuel vapor / deposits from the fuel tank, via the carbon canister, which is fitted under the air filter box right behind the front bumper on drivers side, the purge valve it's self is situated on the side or back of the air filter box, very similar to where it is on the 16v Corrado's. According to the Bentley manual the purge valve (EVAP) solenoid value, opens once the engine is up to temperature, so I presume it must communicate via the ECU with the coolant temp switch. If the fuel vapor purge valve (EVAP) fails or the vacuum hoses are not fitted, then it can cause rough running / idle and poor starting, like I say according to the Bentley manual. It also says that the fuel vapor purge valve is an emissions control device, as it helps to lower the emissions. Si

MARKB did you actually fit these lenses ? Or has anyone else tried them ? Bosch part n.o 1305354933 Si

I've been tinkering around with cars for the last 25 years or so, it's trial and error when it comes to drilling out rusted bolts though, you've just got to take your time, and keep checking or you'll drill at an angle or snap the drip bit. I've done that a few times :bad-words: :lol: Si

Do you mean the fuel vapor canister purge valve ?? If fitted to VR6 ? Si

Yeah I hear you mate it's strange how one side isn't too bad, but then the other is a complete nightmare, I've had this a few times on my Corrado when repairing / replacing items. Must be a Corrado thing :scratch: But to be honest when they are working fine it's a hell of a cracking car to drive :dance: Plus mine hasn't Really played up too much, the only time it broke down was when part of my immobiliser control unit burnt out, and lost power to the fuel pump relay, and yes that was a fun long day, NOT :lol: Really wish I was driving mine but will have to wait until my list of jobs to do on it is complete. Si

Yesterday I took both the rear hub end axles off, what a pig they were to get off, all 4 bolts each side were seized solid, managed to undo them a part from 1 that snapped off :( Spent a good 25 minutes drilling it out carefully :rambo: The old brake dust Shields are completely rusted through, so next job will be to clean and paint rear axle, and fit new rear Shields. Plus I've got a pair of new rear ABS sensors to fit. Luckily already got the new parts. Rear hub end or stub axle bolts N908 773 01 Washers for above bolts 321 501 119A Rear brake dust Shields N/S/R 191 615 611D O/S/R 191 615 612D ABS sensors were off Ebay. My tip of the day is use a long breaker bar and loads of WD40, and keep working the bolts back and forth, it you're not sure if the whole bolt is turning, then do what I did and look over the top of the ABS sensor and rear brake hose, so you'll be able to see the end of the bolts sticking out, here you can clearly see if the bolt is turning and not just the head of bolt. Keep working back and forth and using WD40, every so often go a bit further and the bolts will come out eventually. Also the problem I had was the head of bolts were heavily rusted, I think they should be 16mm but mine were rusted down to 14mm and close to 13mm. The one bolt that snapped off I had to drill out, first thing to do was use a centre punch in the centre of the bolt head, then I used a 5mm colbolt drill bit, then went up to 6mm, then 7mm, I think I might have gone up to a 8mm drill bit. Once the hole through the bolt is large enough but not so large that you're going to drill off the threads in the rear axle, you can use a small chisel and hammer, to try and turn the rest of the bolt i.e rotate it, if it still doesn't want to move then you need to carry on drilling, but this time you need to drill in a oval movement, to create more heat and give a tappered edge at both ends of the hollow bolt, keep drilling but keep an eye on how thin the bolt walls are coming, and alternate between the chisel / hammer and drill, and the bolt will eventually come out with the axel threads still intact. Oh yeah before I forget use a block of wood and hammer to knock the old rear ABS sensors out, if they don't move then use some WD40. Believe me it's not a 5 minute job :lol: Si

Hello mate enjoy it while it lasts :dance: I'm sure something will need doing soon, your Corrado must be in a good mood then :lol: Mines still in bits doing loads to it, got the fuel tank out, to sort some rust out, plus the fuel swirl pot is down and given to the fabricators, both the rear hub end axles are off, what a pig they were to get off, all 4 bolts each side were seized solid, managed to undo them a part from 1 that snapped off :( Spent a good 25 minutes drilling it out carefully :rambo: Now I'm cream crackered :sleeping: Si

Also I found this link to another forum, it might give extra info regarding the manual steering rack. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3455386-#/topics/3455386?page=1 Si

Hello there, as above as what FENDERVG has said. I also believe the steering will be seriously heavy at very low speeds, especially with the VR6 as they have wider wheels / tyres as standard. I myself haven't changed a PAS steering rack over to a manual one on the Corrado. But each to there own, if you do want to go down that road, according to the manuals for the MK2 Golf and Corrado, it looks like you possibly can change them over. One of the snags you're going to come across though is the lower universal joints, as there might be a small difference in the amount of splines, between the Golf and Corrado. Early Corrado's had 36 teeth on the steering gear pinion (basically the shaft sticking out vertically out of rack) And 36 teeth on the lower universal joint shaft. Then after vin n.o 50-N-011 488 or 50 N 012 001 all new racks and lower universal joints came with 22 teeth, according to the Bentley manual for the Corrado. Plus I think the PAS rack only has the one U-clamp on the passenger side, the drivers side is all moulded to the rack, that's on the Corrado 1989 to 1995 and possibly later MK2 Golf 1991 to 1992 mainly GTi and 16v But there were 2 types of PAS rack for the MK2 Golfs, I think one was the ZF and the other was the TRW. Where as on the manual steering rack I think you'll possibly need two of the U-clamps and bushes. Also I think the MK2 Golf has 18 splines on the steering gear pinion and lower universal joint. You might have to find another universal joint like I say the later Corrado ones have 22 teeth. The other thing as well is the Corrado VR6 has a slightly wider track so you'll have to use the VR6 tie rods and track rod ends, in the manual steering rack set up. The VR6 standard tyre size according to the Bentley manual are 205/50R15, so you need to adjust the length of the new tie rods complete with track rod ends attached. Tie rod on VR6 is the type with out the extra shoulder. Length should be 406mm for VR6 Thread is M14mm x 1.5mm Where as the MK2 Golf tie rod length is 379.5mm with the extra shoulder on the tie rod, with tyre size 175/70R13 185/60R14 195/50R15 Make sure the track rod ends are attached to tie rods, and that they are 100% horizontally straight, including the track rod end joint stud when measuring / resetting the length, or it'll be out slightly. Also you'll need to clean the threads in the ends of the rack tubes, where the new tie rods screw into, I normally do this with a tap & die set to clean off the old thread lock. Make sure you use a drop or two of thread lock, on the new tie rod ends where they screw into rack, otherwise they can work loose. If you want to check any thread pitch then use a thread gauge, this will tell you exactly what the thread size is. But I think the tie rod threads for the Golf & Corrado are M14mm X 1.5mm Si

Has anybody ordered one yet :bounce2: :turn-l: Si

Looking at your photo's it appears part of the auto choke or the housing for the auto choke is missing, I think you've already mentioned that your Scirocco has a Pierberg 2E2 carburettor fitted as standard. Here's a link below to a Pierberg carb not a 2E2 but it's of a 2E3 which is similar. https://www.scribd.com/doc/177176797/Pierburg-2E3-Masster Also a bit of info here regarding having your Pierberg carb repaired, it shows a rough break down of what they replace. https://sites.google.com/site/pierburgcarburettorrepairs/Pierburg-carburettors Si

No worries. Si

Hello there, the link below is a thread I replied to last year, I think I posted up a list of all or most of the 35 pin connections from a 9A (2.0 16v) ECU The Bentley manual I have for the 9A engine only goes up to about 1992 Possibly the only thing I didn't post up was the lambda sensor pin. Hope this helps Si

I'd go for a Webber carburettor as the original Pierberg ones were pants, I had one on my 1.8 Scirocco Scarla, it had the wax stat type auto choke on it, which are known to wear out, I had to put at least 2 on mine. Plus they have that large green ball type vacuum chamber that is bolted to the bulkhead, they can cause problems as well over time. Also check the thick rubber base mount, as they crack and cause rough runing. If you do fit a Webber carburettor you'll have to fit a manual choke cable, normally fits into dash on drivers side just left of steering wheel. Si

Yeah like I say I'd turn them 180 degrees max no more, or 176 degrees minimum, going on what you've said regarding torque settings. You can mark the head of the bolts with a bit of white tippex for stage 3, so if you get distracted by a phone call, you'll see which bolts were turned. That's what I do when tightening down head bolts. Plus I always do an extra degrees just to be safe, so if I had to turn head bolts by 150 degrees, I'd go 152 degrees max there's enough elasticity in stretch bolts for + 1 or 3 degrees. Si

From what I've read and seen on YouTube, this ACF 50 was designed to be used on electrical items and wiring, in the Aviation Industry as it repels moisture and lasts a total of 12 to 18 months before it needs reapplying. Before you apply it the areas have to be 100% spotless, or you'll be simply spraying over dirt. Looks like loads of people are using it on their motorbike plastics, the main frame, wiring, wheels. Note! But apparently don't apply it to your motorbike handlebars or foot pegs or tyres as it's very slippery. Si

I wouldn't go over 180 degrees or any less than 176 degrees on the last stage. This is purely going on what you've told us that an extra 10Nm of torque was applied on the second stage. Note! If you have any doubts at all regarding how much net total of torque, was applied on stages 1 and 2 then start again with a new head gasket and new head bolts. Si

I wouldn't back off the bolts now that they have been torqued up, as the head gasket is now compressed, ok it's not fully compressed yet but you're only supposed to use the gasket once. If you're 100% sure that the total torque value is 70Nm that's been applied so far to the head bolts, then in theory you should be ok to complete the last stage. An extra 10Nm is minimal it's only 4 to 5 degrees if that anyway. So you can apply 180 degrees dead on the mark I'm sure it'll be fine. Si

On Classic it says from 1989 to 1995 But like you say probably best to check with one of the sales team at VW Heritage first. Si

Hello there, below is a link to a thread that I replied to with most of the power steering pipes for a Corrado VR6 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?107417-VR6-Power-Steering-Pipe As far as I know VW Classic Parts only list the one pipe that fits under the radiator, I ordered one through VW Heritage back in early July, I spoke to Ben in sales he said possibly Classic only list the one pipe in question for the Corrado. I bought one for my 2.0 16v Si

Hello there, if no one on here has any, there are some on Ebay for £17 But looks like they've only got the one set. I think this link works ? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202323850200 Si

Hopefully someone on here may have one, I think the part number is: 191 011 247A Looks like this was used on the Polo, Golf, Passat, Corrado up until about 2005 Si

According to the Corrado Bentley manual for VR6 the lambda sensor has 4 wires, it says to check for pre heat voltage with your multimeter set at 20v. terminal 1 (red / white) wire, terminal 2 (brown) wire. Says you should see approx battery voltage with engine running (basically 10 to 12 volts) So if the (red / white) wire and the (brown) wire were both earth, then you wouldn't see any voltage between terminals 1 and 2. I believe the lambda sensor normally pre heats when the engine is cold, then when the engine / exhaust is up to temp, it will obtain it's heat then from the hot exhaust or something like that. So possibly the (red/white) wire terminal 1 is the power feed for the pre heat circuit, and the (brown) wire terminal 2 is the earth. Possibly the red / white wire switches to earth so as to turn off the pre heat circuit, once the engine / exhaust is up to temp, which is normally after 10 to 12 minutes. The manual also says VR6 with coil pack from mid 1993 to 1994 has 1 lambda sensor. Then from 1994 upwards VR6 with coil pack has 2 lambda sensors. Si

Link below is for the fuel feed pipe from main fuel pump to accumulator, cost is £36 (part number 191 201 373) Showing in stock. http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/fuel-supply-pipe-accumulator-to-fuel-filter-vw-golf-jetta-mk2-k-jetronic-191201326.html Si