vw rule

Blimey just read the article in the above link regarding Classic Parts, trying to reproduce the roof strips, now that's dedication for you they didn't give up, even when every VW manufacturer supplier they went to turned them down, but thankfully they managed to find a supplier who was willing. Plus they were able to find and keep the original tooling machine. 3 years in the marking, thank you VW Classic Parts for sticking with it :salute: :thumbleft: And of cause for KARMANNSKI for getting his roof trims made :thumbleft: Si

Also I've had a similar issue with the centre hub that's part of the rear brake discs, a new bearing I was fitting to the rear disc's, again it felt loose so had to purchase a new set of rear disc's, so possibly the rear hubs are similar in that you're only able to punch / press them in 2 to 3 times max ?? Si

Yeah so really depends how many times the bearings have been replaced, like I say you might get away with using some bearing lock like I did, but other then that possibly looks like you might need new wheel hub housings ? Si

The thing I've noticed with my front wheel hub housings, mainly the N/S/F as that was the one I had a problem with, the old wheel bearing was shot, so replaced with new one only to find that when pressing the new bearing in, it went straight in with out any real resistance, so pressed the new bearing out and checked everything, came to the conclusion that the outer case of bearing was able to spin very slightly, where it should be a nice snug fit against the inner wall of the wheel hub housing. I used some bearing lock on the outer case area of bearing, so it wouldn't spin like before, only the centre of bearing would spin like it should. If my bearing goes again in the future then I'll have to purchase new wheel hub housings, as possibly you're only ment to use these wheel hub housings once or maybe twice max ? This will be the second time that I've seen an issue with some of these VW hub housings, one was on my Corrado and the other was on a work colleagues MK3 Golf some years ago now. Just food for thought. Si

To be honest that sealant does look good, I think you'll be ok with that, unless someone knows another brand which is better ? Si

Yesterday I sanded down the rear axle beam ready for paint, it looked really bad but was just surface rust, also amazingly I was able to unbolt the bracket for the rear brake pressure regulator valve, again this was heavily rusted thought it was a goner, but no just surface rust, plus all the bolts weren't too bad either, but I'll replace them anyway. Order new bits. Pressure regulator tension spring as the old one is shot. 535 612 339 Nylon roller bush as the old one is splitting. 321 612 367 Bolt roller spacer sleeve as the old one is seized to bolt, the above roller bush slides over this spacer sleeve. 893 612 363 Plus I'll purchase a new rear brake pressure regulator valve, as the current one fitted is 14 or 15 years old now, plus as one or two of you mentioned it's best to replace it. As I've already got these rear stud axle dust gaurds 191 501 639A I couldn't be bothered to sell them or chuck them out, so I drilled around the centre outer edge and cut them out, then run them over a grinding wheel until they were the same size / diameter as my old ones, cleaned up the edges then applied some rust eater along the outer edge that had been cut, then a coat of zinc paint, left to dry and now fitted on my rear stud axles. Yes I know part number 191 501 639A is the wrong item as it's for NONE ABS :bonk: But I didn't want to chuck them out. So if anyone can't find the proper part or like me just didn't want to sling them out, you can adapt them to fit simply by doing what I did, if you have a spare hour :lol: Si

I know this thread is regarding the boot seal, but here's some more information about the door frame seals from Sealsdirect, has various photos and part numbers. Link below. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?47111-door-rubber-seal-pic-request&highlight=Corrado+door+seal Si

Going by that part number I think it's the white one Rob. 357 837 084 = (black) right side 357 837 083 = (white) left side Si

I think we should get a time machine and roll back the years to say 1993, at least then you were able to still get virtually everything new for the Corrado :help: But on a serious note I think FENDERVG is right, the market for our Corrado's is getting smaller every year :( Si

Thinking about it this might have been the company that was selling these electric window regulators for the Corrado back in 2015 on ARZ Tuning. https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-54060 Si

Looks like KARMANNSKI is possibly on the VW Vortex forum also, you might need to send him a PM. Plus he put up a link on page 29 to another thread, there might be other details on it ?? The link to his shop on this page doesn't work for some reason :shrug: Si

1H0 407 613B 5 stud front hub for VR6 Available at Euro Car Parts, GSF, Ebay, and possibly VW Heritage / Classic Parts. Below are the only wheel / bearing hub housings that VW Classic Parts stock for the Corrado I believe. 1H0 407 255 Left wheel hub housing £239 euros 1H0 407 256 Right wheel hub housing £239 euros Si

Hello there, this is from the Bentley manual for 2.8 VR6 with eng code AAA, but must be the same for ABV eng code i.e for the 2.9 VR6. Knock sensor 1 (G61) Fitted on back of engine = exhaust side (error code 00524) Faulty sensor malfunction = knocking not recognised by ECU Or wiring fault resulting in no signal from knock sensor 1 Knock sensor 2 (G66) Fitted on front of engine = inlet side (error code 00540) Faulty sensor malfunction = knocking not recognised by ECU Or wiring fault resulting in no signal from knock sensor 2 Yeah I believe when they fail you might get a very slight misfire or rough running, the engine might feel like it's down on power very slightly. The knock sensors detect pinking from the cylinders, and will tell the ECU to retard it's programmed timing range, if they pick that sound up. Looks like the wiring attached to the knock sensor has to be fixed in place, where it runs up or across the engine block, otherwise that can cause false readings from the sensor. Plus if the outer shielding is cracked or loose, again this can cause issues. Also check the connector plugs for any damage or wear on or around the contacts. Also it's highly important to torque the retaining bolt up to the correct torque setting, otherwise that can cause the knock sensor to not work at all, or it'll receive false readings. The correct torque setting for both knock sensors on the VR6 is: 20Nm or = 15 ft Ib The Bentley manual says there's no proper way to test the knock sensors, only really if the diagnostic scanner brings up the fault codes. Testing knock sensors with multimeter set at ohms. (with ignition switched off) With the connector plug disconnected you should have infinite ohms, meaning no continuity i.e no power active. Bentley manual says the knock sensors both have 3 pin connector plugs, I think the average reading you should see is something between 2000 - 3000 ohms. Also says you can check the wiring through to ECU to check for continuity, with plug disconnected bridge terminal pins 1 & 3 of (knock sensor 1) you should see 1.5 ohms max. Connector plug should be near rear engine mount. (Possibly white plug) Then for (knock sensor 2) bridge terminal pins 2 & 3 you should see 1.5 ohms max also. Connector plug should be next to starter motor (plug is black) Then with ignition switched on you can check for power i.e voltage, I think you should have 5 to 8 volts roughly. If the ohms test doesn't work then possibly with the connector plugs disconnected, (ignition switched off) you can set your multimeter at volts, and gently tap on engine block near to the knock sensor, and see if the voltage increases or not, but this may vary as I think knock sensors pick up different sound frequencies, from engine to engine so to speak. Hope this helps Si

:lol::lol: no worries. Si

No never heard of them. Looks like they've got a few parts for the Corrado though, I expect the shipping cost will be expensive ?? Si

Yeah as above they were only fitted to the very early Corrado's. Si

I've had a look online it appears that company no longer does the after market electric window regulators for the Corrado, they did about 3 years ago ARZ Tuning that is. Si

Looks like there's a company in Germany called ARZ Tuning, I've bought a few things from them as well back in 2015. Rob looks like they also do that plastic cooling pipe, here's the link below from their Ebay sale page. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermostat-Housing-Water-Pipe-Set-VW-VR6-CORRADO-GOLF-III-Passat-Sharan-T4/323228572975?hash=item4b41ec9d2f:g:H1cAAOSweW5VesTN Si

Hello there, I believe the electric window regulators are specifically handed to each side, so I don't think you can change them from left to right or vice versa. VW Classic Parts have stock of the left electric regulator, but the right one is still obsolete for now. I think they might possibly stock the left & right manual regulators though. There was a company online that sold after market electric window regulators for the Corrado, I'll see if they still do them. Si

Hi Rob I presume you mean the black plastic coolant pipe that runs along the engine block to back of water pump ? If so these guys sell some I think. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/VW_Corrado_Cooling.php?model=2.9%20VR6 I've ordered a few parts from them in the past, and haven't been a problem. Also there seems to be some on Ebay. Have you tried Heritage / Classic Parts for a genuine one ? I'm not sure if Euro Car Parts, or GSF do that pipe as I couldn't see it on their websites. Si

Oh yeah also if you mention that you're on the Corrado Forum when you speak to them, they'll probably do you a deal on price as well. I think I paid £68 or £70 for the 8 foot long rubber seal for the door frames. You simply cut the seal in half so you'll then in theory have two 4 foot long pieces, then trim back the excess when fitting them. Si

Yes I tried the boot seal back in 2013 from Sealsdirect, it didn't fit right, but like I say that was back in 2013 they may have updated their stock ? But I can confirm the door seals from Sealsdirect do fit, the only small snag is you might have a small gap, between the trim and seal inside the car that is, the outer part of seal that presses against the doors in perfect. You need about 8 foot and the guy I spoke to chucked in for free some rubber tube to help seal the two connecting half's. Si

Hi Anna I've just sent you an email for one of the signs, plus a few extra parts I need. Many thanks Si

I presume there the same diameter of pipe between the 4 cyl and VR6 Corrado's, is it just then the angle at which they bend under the radiator differs slightly, or are the two fixing brackets attached to the VR6 pipe wider a part compared to that of the 4 cyl one ? Si

Yeah I've already replaced all the rear brake pipes and hoses, they were done about 3 or 4 years ago. One thing that does need doing though are the rear axle bushes, I've been meaning to replace them for ages but just haven't got round to doing them yet. I have replaced them before on MK2 Golfs, they can sometimes be a turd to get out or fit. I'm sure I've got some long 12mm studding that I used last time to make up the tooling to fit the rear bushes. I did replace the rear brake pressure regulator valve about 14 years ago :lol: Yep that'll probably need doing again like you guys have said, plus the bracket 191 612 407B has seen better days so will definitely get that sorted too, and the spring plus nylon bush. Si