vw rule

Hello mate, yes they do the whole UK this Highway Insurance campany. This is off there website main page, below. Highway, part of the Liverpool Victoria group of companies (LV=), is a leading personal lines insurer committed to providing technical and service excellence. Established more than 50 years ago as a motor insurance specialist, our products are distributed predominantly through independent intermediaries, of which we have strong relationships with around 2,500 across the UK and Northern Ireland Hope this helps Si ---------- Post added at 1:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:35 PM ---------- Hello mate, yes they do the whole UK this Highway Insurance campany. This is off there website main page, below. Highway, part of the Liverpool Victoria group of companies (LV=), is a leading personal lines insurer committed to providing technical and service excellence. Established more than 50 years ago as a motor insurance specialist, our products are distributed predominantly through independent intermediaries, of which we have strong relationships with around 2,500 across the UK and Northern Ireland Hope this helps Si

Hello mate, nice one on owning a Corrado :thumbleft: There is a insurance company called HIGHWAY, if you contact them they might even be able to beat your £800 quote ? As they have a large list of smaller brokers. •Free legal protection service •Free breakdown cover on all motor policies •Huge savings with major insurers •Instant cover available live online •Instalments available This is their contact details below. Email: [email protected] Telephone: 0844 4999410 Si

Hello Rob, on the attached photo you've put up I'd say it looks like fuel soot, the block spots on your drive look like the engine may well be over fuelling slightly. Because to have engine oil spitting out of the exhaust that would mean you have a internal engine problem, which would normally kick out blue / grey smoke from the exhaust. To have oil coming out of the exhaust, it would be head gasket gone badly, or a cracked cylinder head, or a cracked damaged piston or rings. Your exhaust Rob is it a DTM Stainless Steel box and system ? It's just that with some of the stainless exhaust systems they do tend to get coated with thick soot in side, mainly in the rear box as it's the coldest part of the exhaust. I used to get this on my old MK2 VW Scirocco, I had a Janspeed stainless system on it. It is normal Rob to have some moisture from the exhaust tail pipe, as this moisture is mainly from the cat where the gases pass through the honey cone inside it, so you will see a little white / grey smoke coming out, the white smoke is the moisture and the grey smoke is where it has mixed with the soot and small traces of oil in the exhaust. Your very short journeys Rob will mean your Corrado won't be getting right up to running temp for long enough, so you will see moisture more often coming out of your exhaust. Like I say I think you mainly have a over fuelling issue, you still need to keep an eye on your engine oil level and coolant level. The VAGCOM or any other scanner won't pick up a faulty fuel pressure regulator, as they are normally vacuum operated and don't have any sensor on them. I believe you'll need the engine to be running to check the fuel pressure, this can be done at most workshop garages. It could even be worn out fuel injectors as the centre needles do open up to a larger size, due to the constant fuel friction going through them. Plus in the past I’ve had the coolant temp switch go a little weak, it still works but can be come lazy, which can course over fuelling problems, same goes for the lambda sensor. I think the cam position sensor is mainly for the fuel injectors, it normally tells them when to fire, plus does kind of work along side the crank sensor for the coil pack, but the coil pack gets it’s main signal I think from the crank sensor, which tells the coil when to fire. Rob normally thick black smoke out the exhaust is fuel meaning the engine is running too rich, or a EGR valve is sticking or is choked up with soot. Hope this helps mate. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Steve (Edition 1) I'm just waiting for my funds to clear in my PayPal account, which will be Wednesday or Thursday of next week :( Sorry for the delay. Thanks Rory and Steve for sorting this. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Rob compression at 180 to 200 PSI is fine for the VR6 if they were down to 140 or slightly lower, then yes I'd say you would have a compression problem starting. Black smoke from your exhaust is normally fuel, for petrol and diesel engines, and blue / grey smoke is normally oil. White / grey smoke is normally a sign of water loss. White smoke from a diesel engine normally means that neat diesel is not being burnt correctly, or is being injected at the wrong time. You have 3 piston rings on the pistons, the top and middle rings are the compression rings, and the lower / bottom ring is the oil ring. Your compressions seem to be ok so I'd say your compression rings are fine for now, but your oil rings could be slightly warn. The oil ring is designed to allow oil to pass through it and line the bore with a fine smear of oil, some oil may pass the compression rings but this is normal in small amounts. Most engines do burn a small amount of oil, but V4, V6, V8 engines tend to burn a little more, due to the angle of the V-block, this includes the VR6 I know it's only got a 15 degree internal bore angle, but they do burn slightly more oil than the other Corrado engine versions. Rob you said that you fitted a reconditioned cylinder head, a recon head should have been skimmed, and have new valves, new valve guides, and new valve stem oil seals, and may be new or machined cam shafts, plus new cam lifters - (Hydraulic tappets) Excessive oil consumption will be down to warn cylinder bores, pistons rings, valve guides, valves them self's, valve stem oil seals. When I say valves them self's I mean the valve stem on the valve, if you check for side movement in the valves when they are still attached in the cylinder head, there should only be a slight bit of movement around 1/4 to 1/2 a millimeter, 1.2mm to 1.5mm is really too much movement, and at 2mm or more side movement valves can shatter or snap at the valve head. But to get a true reading you'll really need to strip the head bare of the cam shafts, stem seals, valve springs, just so there is no pressure on the valves then. You can fit new valve stem oil seals but this will only work short term if the valves are worn or the valve guides are, you can measure the valve stems to see if they are warn out or not, but you'll have to remove the valves completely to do this. But usually it's the valve guides that wear out first as they are much softer. Normally on start up from cold, blue / grey smoke is valve stem / guide wear or valve stem oil seals, what happens is once the car has been left for a few hours or over night the oil in the cylinder head can seep, slowly through the warn valve stem oil seals and line the valve guides with oil, may even drip on to the valve heads so when the engine is started the suction from the piston stroke will draw the oil down, and out in to the exhaust but you normally only see this on start up when the engine is cold. Rob if you are still seeing smoke from the exhaust when the engine is hot, then it could be your piston rings, mainly the oil rings, you don't always have really low compression. What state were the cylinder bores in when you had the head off ?? Was there deep wear scratches or were the bores heavily glazed ?? Pitting in the cylinders is a sign that the bore lining is becoming thin, in which case will need a re-bore or replacement liners fitted. Rob if you can feel a deep ridge near to the top of the cylinder, then that really means your bores have seen better days. It is normal to have some by pass pressure in the crank case i.e engine block. By pass pressure is the combustion fumes from the cylinders, that pass the piston rings in to the crank case. Too much crank case pressure will force oil up in to the cylinders and some fuel in to the oil in the sump, this usually means the pistons rings are shot or bores are warn in a oval shape, or in some rare cases can be the breather box is blocked up. vehicles that only do short journeys tend to have a smell of fuel on the dip dick, plus the cylinder bores will wear out quicker. Rob also the fuel regulator if it's a little warn can let too much fuel through, which can make the engine run slightly rich hence the black smoke you have. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

This is the reason why we have Health And Safety for people like him in that photo, who don't have a glue :cuckoo: It's just common sense but some people just don't have any. A lot of people get killed by doing the most stupid of things. Like the guy a few years ago who was using a chain saw up a ladder in the wet, trying to cut part of a tree down, he slipped and still had the chain saw switched on and was sliced up by his own hand. Plus about 6 or 8 years ago there was a young guy working for I think it was Sunlight Linen And Laundry Services he stupidly got inside a industrial dryer machine when it suddenly stopped rotating, the main power switch wasn't turned off :scratch: WHY :shrug: And so when he had fixed the internal problem the machine started rotating again with him still inside it, and the poor chap was killed. Like I say it's just common sense most of the time. THE ELDERLY Like some of these elderly people that drive a automatic car that seem to drive off the edge of a cliff, or some how drive off a multi story car park. What these car manufactures should do is adapt the front and rear parking sensors, in to the gearbox or braking system so that the vehicle can not move if there's an object in front or behind it right on the bumper, the vehicle then would only be able to move one way (away from the obstacle) JOY RIDERS What the Police should have is a device that can be fired in to the metal body of the vehicle that they are chasing, which will send a power surge through the body of the car, which we all know is the earth to the battery, this will then fry the battery / electrics and bring the vehicle to a complete stop. None of this chasing the sods in the vehicle with flat tyres. THE MOBILE PHONE these could be wired in to the cars electrics, say in the dash which will complete the circuit, so the vehicle will only start up and be able to drive it with the phone connected in the dash. On the phones front face / screen it will display driving mode, if the phone is touched or lifted off it's dash connection , it will course the vehicle to cut out and come to a stop. All in coming and out going calls will be made through the cars in built phone system, say like todays blue tooth head units, something that all mobiles can connect to safely. Just a few thoughts really. Si :salute:

No worries mate, thanks for Organizing all this Rory. Many thanks :thumbleft:

Hello mate, if you can try to purchase a Bosch lambda sensor as these I believe are close to the original one, I think new they are around £70.00 to £85.00 Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LS3829-Bosch-Lambda-Oxygen-Sensor-CAT-VW-Corrado-2-9-50-ABV-08-91-07-95-/181124437423?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2bdb95af But from the main dealer they are a lot more. Yeah or like you say unless someone on here has got a good new one ? But yeah I would do a scan first of the ECU just to see what fault codes it is holding if any ? Hope you get it all sorted out. Si ---------- Post added at 11:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ---------- The only other thing regarding your K&N air filter. Is it just a replacement filter in the original air filter box, or is it a K&N cone filter which has replaced the original air filter box. I'm just thinking of the breather hose / hoses ? Because if you leave a breather hose off or some times a vacuum hose it can course the emissions to shoot up. Si

Hello OrangeCorrado, yeah like the other guys have said it'll be your catalytic converter or the lambda sensor. On the original cat the honey cone with in it will have small wholes, so the exhaust fumes will pass through the honey cone at a slower rate. Normally you have 10 to 15% reduced power due to the original cat. Compared to the sports cat the fumes may well pass through at a much faster rate due to the larger honey cone, in which case the exhaust fumes will have less time to be converted in to less harmful gases. But like Kev has said I would replace your Lambda sensor first and go from there. Have you scanned the ECU to see if it is holding a error code for a worn lambda sensor or air flow sensor ?? Your K&N air filter should be ok. Have you put uprated cams in it or had any other mods done to it ?? Changing your engine oil and oil filter can reduce your emissions by 0.2 to 0.3% Hope this helps Si :thumbleft:

Nice one we've reached 21 in total cool. Thanks Rory for Organizing this nice one Sir :thumbleft: Rory the list price is £84.23 a 20% discount is £67.38 per each (a saving of £16.85) so total of £80.38 which includes the carriage Carriage is £13.00 and a 25% discount is £63.17 per each (a saving of £21.06 ) so total of £76.17 which includes the carraige Rory on your original first page of this thread you stated that a 25% discount would work out at £67.39 but that's 20% isn't it ??? Sorry Rory it's just that I want to make sure I give you the correct amount, please can you confirm that it is 25% discount. Which ever it is I'm still in and will pay you. Many thanks. Si :thumbleft:

No worries mate, any time. Glad you got it all working again. BEEP BEEP Si :thumbleft:

Hello Mark, Yeah the clutch bite should really be low down and then after a few miles of driving it should be a little higher. A new clutch fitted should have a lowish pedal bite, and a worn clutch will normally have a high pedal bite. Mark I would jack your car up on to axle stands and check the drive shafts, just in case it is something silly like a drive shaft spining with in it's joint. You can go for a drive round the block to see if it clears up, but if it's on the axle stands you could test it on them so to speak. Mark it might be a good idea to check the operation of the clutch slave cylinder, I know you said you've replaced it, but it's to check that it is moving fully and that it's not sticking, you know leaving pressure on the clutch arm. But to be honest Mark I hate to say it, sorry mate but I think you may have to drop the gearbox out again, it does sound like the pressure plate isn't being compressed enough by the clutch assembly. It could be oil / grease contamination but it would have to be a lot to course the clutch to slip all the time, as a little oil would soon get burnt off the pressure plate or flywheel. But just before you do take your gearbox out again just check the drive shafts and the slave cylinder, just in case it is something silly and easy to correct. Hope this helps. Si

Hello Mark, I'm sure you haven't mate but have you put the clutch pressure plate on back to front, normally if you do it will make one heck of a noise but on some vehicles it can course the slipping issue that you have. Where does the clutch pedal start to get the bite from the clutch, is it low down or is it when the pedals high when it gets the bite on yours now. It could also be a faulty clutch I've had that before but it is rare. What make is the new clutch you fitted ? What condition was your flywheel in ?? Si

I like the Paul Van Dyk podcast, most weeks it's really good. Most things mixed by Above & Beyond is normally good. Paul Oakenfold goer mix from 1994 is amazing and stiil sounds good today, plus I've heard his new one which is called Fluorescence from July 2012 which is not bad But the best tune of all time for me has to be by Sasha called Xpanda from 1996 it's amazing, I remember this when it first came out, what a tune. The new tune I've heard recently is the one by Armin Van Buuren, called This Is What It Feels Like, it's getting a bit cheesey where it's been caned on the radio, but yeah it's a good tune. The proper trance versions are much better, well there remixes by Antillas & Dankann and the other by Giuseppe Ottaviani. Went to Ibiza last year and the tune that nearly every bar & club was playing was this: On my chill out days I like to listen to INXS and U2 and New Jack Swing. Keep the beat moving everyone :clap: :dance: :drinking: :silly: :hic: :multi: :gag: :sleeping: :shades: :sunny:

Yeah I think you're right Clumpy1 Have a look at this link guys it's the DVLA rules for number plates: http://www.theplatemarket.com/display_of_registration_numbers.php This link has the spec for most of the American style plates plus rules: https://www.craigsplates.com/import-number-plates Si

Hello mate, no I haven't had this horn issue on my car yet but have on other vehicles, The fuse for the horn is fuse number 13, plus also there might be a relay for the horn, this relay is next to the fuel pump relay, the pump relay is the one on the bottom right of the fuse box, should have on it number 67, then the one next to it on the left is normally for the horn, this should have number 53 on it. Just a note I think the radiator cooling fan sensor switch is partly fused through fuse 13 as well. The garage where you've taken it to if they've said that it keeps blowing the fuse then there must be a short somewhere. There should really be wires to the fuse box I can't see that someone would have removed them, unless the guys at that garage can't trace the wiring ?? The two horns on the Corrado's are normally under the battery tray bolted to a bracket behind the front bumper, the wires to them I think are the (brown / black) this wire is the main wire from the horn relay to the horns, it's about 1.5mm thick, plus there's a (brown) wire to the horn swith I think. I believe there should be two wires to the horn switch on the steering wheel, so when you press down the horn switch it completes the circut and sounds the horns. Have a look at this link http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html once it opens up the page click then on the first top main website which will read as Central Electric 2 - A2Resource it should show you the full lay out of the fuse box for the Corrado. There is one big main wire loom which is attached to the steering column, everything goes through this loom (Ignition switch, Indicator, main beam, wiper, MFA storks wires) then once this large wirring loom reaches the fuse box it then branches off to multi coloured plugs on the back of the fuse box, like I say if you open up that link you will see the lay out of the back of the fuse box. The multi coloured plugs you want to be looking at are the steering column plugs, which are on the bottom half on the back of the fuse box, on the left. It should be the three red plugs, one 8 pin plug and two 10 pin plugs, these three red plugs are for the steering column wiring. The horns should be wired in to the third red plug (10 pin plug) H1 on the link picture. The horn relay I think is wired in to the fisrt red plug (10 pin plug) J or H2 on the link picture. Hope this helps. Si

Top man Smokiee you'll soon be smoking those tyres again, good to hear you're going to keep your VR6 purring, nice one :thumbleft: Yeah if you can mate it might be safer to keep your Corrado at your dad's place. If you can get hold of some secondhand cheap wheels just so you'll be able to move the car, worst case you could tow your Corrado to your dad's place or a mate's place, and sort the dash / wiring out at a later date, at least then your car will be in a much safer place. Plus will give you some time to save a little money up to get her back to how she was. Like I say I've been working on my Corrado for just over 11 years, and I've had it all from :D :scratch: :( :nurse: :mad: :sleeping: :idea: :dance: Si :thumbleft:

Hey guys have we got ten peolpe now :cheers: ??

Hello Smokiee, sorry to hear about your Corrado VR6 that's the only thing with a nice car or any thing nice you just can't leave it any where now days. You've got to ask your self what that classic car really means to you deep down, and if you've still got the passion and drive :confused: If so then please get her back to her original glory. Do you remember the first time you drove your Corrado and the sound of that VR6 :shocked!: and what about every time you parked her up at home or at work, and found your self staring at her from every angle :luvlove: If you've still got that sparkle in your eye like most Corrado owners have, then PLEASE PLEASE use it. What about Rocky Balboa her never stayed down when he got knocked, and the A-Team were always able to build something out of nothing. I've owned my Corrado for just over 11 years and I'm still working on her now, call it work in progress. I don't have the amazing VR6 but have a 16 valver and have a few spare parts to hand. I don't have the A-Teams number but what I do know is that, there are loads of ladies and gents on here who would be happy to help you out I'm sure, to get her back to her original glory. Go on mate put her back together and put two fingers up to the sods that tried to take her from you. Please don't let another Corrado VR6 go to the grave :doc: Keep your chin up mate we're all counting on you to keep the VR6 Corrado alive :thumbleft:

Hello Edd, the MK2 Golf battery tray fits to the Corrado as the front chassis legs and inner wings around the struts, are very similar to the Golf and Jetta of 1988 to 1992 You just need to make a tinny adjustment to the front of the new tray where it fits against the front panel below the N/S/F head lamp. Hope this helps. Si

Hello mate have a look at this link below. (Various ABS warning light switches for Corrado) on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=corrado+abs+light&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Hope this helps. Si

Hello Ruggy, yeah you should hear a wine from the fuel pump for 3 to 6 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and then once the car starts up the fuel pump should be working until the cars engine is turned off. It could well be your fuel pump that is starting to break down, when these fuel pumps start to wine really loudly it is normally the first sign that they are going to fail. Does your Corrado only play up when the fuel level is low in your tank ? Or is it when you go over a bumpy road ? Check your fuel relay is fitted ok, and check the connection plug to the fuel pump is ok. The only other thing that can course your slight under power issue, is the Lambda Sensor which is fitted in the exhaust down pipe, or in the front end of the Catalytic Converter. This sensor measures the unburnt fuel deposits in the exhaust fumes, and so when it fails can send the ECU in to limp mode, which may dump extra fuel in to the engine via the injectors as it can't obtain a signal from the Lambda Sensor, when this happens the car may feel slightly under power when you put your foot down, plus there can be a small misfire from the engine due to the extra fuel as it's not needed. You may be able to have the ECU scanned just in case it's holding a error code, most vehicles have a orange engine light or a separate light for the Lambda Sensor which will come on to show there's a problem. On my Corrado it only misfires slightly when the fuel tank is really low, so I know I'll have to replace my fuel pump in the near future :( Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Hello mate yeah I've had that issue before with my rear washer jet, it was the jet that was blocked up with dirt, I could blow through the jet and it seemed clear, but still wouldn't let water pass through it when it was reconnected. In the end had to use an air line at a mates garage to really unblock it, if you do use an air line always blow the washer jet from the out side in (through the washer jet nozzle) because other wise you could blow the jet ball nozzle out. Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft:

Hello Frankjetta, it all depends on which garage you take your car to, to have the repair work done, I think the average back street garage hourly rate is £39.00 to £50.00 or if you take it to the VW main dealer they could charge £90.00 to £100.00 per hour easily, if not more. You should be able to have the head gasket replaced for a few hundred pounds, but this really depends on what condition the cylinder head is in when they remove it. I can't remember what the book time is to remove the head on a 16 valver or on the VR6, but I've been able to remove the head on a 16 valver in 20 to 25 mins and a bit longer for the VR6. The garage where you take it may charge 2 hours or more for labour, for parts you may be looking at £100 or more (Head Gasket, Both Manifold Gaskets ?, New Head Bolts, New Anti Freeze, Valve Cover Gasket, Hose Clips, Various Sundries) Make sure they use a genuine head gasket as they are better make, and the same goes for the manifold gaskets, and always use the genuine valve cover gasket on the VR6 It would be a good idea as well to have the cylinder head crack tested once it's been removed, but like I say it all depends on what they find when they remove the head. Your fuel problem could be to do with the head gasket gone, as when the compression level is low your engine won't burn the fuel / air mixture correctly, hence your engine running rich, or it could be that your Lambda Sensor has seen better days in which case it will run rich as the ECU, won't be getting the correct information from the Lambda sensor. Normally when these Lambda sensors go they course a slight misfire from the engine as it's running that bit richer Hope this helps. Si :thumbleft: ---------- Post added 3rd May 2013 at 12:51 AM ---------- Previous post was 2nd May 2013 at 11:56 PM ---------- Hello Veedub Geezer, I've got a cylinder head off a 2.0 16v (9a) which has done about 90,000 miles, the head face is fairly true, the cams are not bad, and it has new lifters fitted in it. I'm sure I had it crack tested and skimmed when I took the head off. The head is at my mates workshop as he wanted a spare engine as he's got a kit car that he races, but as of yet he hasn't used my old cylinder head, I'm sure it's been at his workshop for the last 18 months or so. I can send you some photo's of this head if you wanted. The cylinder head I will sell for £85.00 O N O the head I can send but will have to check cost with FedEx UK to you in Aylesbury, cost of carriage will be £15.00 to £20.00 but like I say I'll have to check carriage cost. Let me know mate if you are still looking for a head. Si :thumbleft:

Cheers guys for all the info :thumbleft: I've just purchased a welder so will be replacing the battery tray at the weekend. Plus will fabricate up a new replacement air intake duct as mine has rusted out, this is the air duct scoop under the radiator that draws air in to it. Cheers, Si :thumbleft: