flusted
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Everything posted by flusted
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move the horns aswell
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yeah sounds like big boost leak! do you have a gasket on the u bend?
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as said before, ok on dark cars
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that looks sweet, bet your well chuffed, i especially like the workmanship where the co pot goes 8)
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thats BoNkErZ
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cool, at least i know now.
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think stage 4 is £585ish? i posted my charger to g-werks
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Whats the bit of silver alloy on my belt tensioner? Is it ment to be there or has someone added this? sorry for bad pic
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I got a stage 4 charger from ebay for £330 that had done 20k ince rebuild
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Ive fitted mine now but cant drive for a month
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heres a pic of mine when i first got it, looks gay
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gaskets are quite expensive, about £10 each i think. Remove injectors when the engines warm, they come out easy then
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The later heads had smaller inlet ports and larger exhaust ports ( early vica versa) They changed this to try and speed the airflow up to increase torque. You wont feel any difference and it will fit fine. The cams may have pointed teeth chainwheels instead of plat teeth, again this wont really make any difference......just fit it
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what does it say near the pins on the back?
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What? and i didnt dressed as a pimp? :lol: Ive just finished demolishing my alternator trying to get my toothed pulley off, so now need a alternator :x Darren has suggested i use A merc idler wheel below the charger,and the cambelt tensioner on a solid tensioner arm. Ive used Bicycle stabilizer bolts for the cam belt tensioners as these have the right 10mm shaft with 8mm thread.
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You cant physically lift the inlet cam out with the exhaust cam in place and the chain on.
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do they do a base plate for rado then? I used a ford focus base plate i think
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anyone want to post pics of tere set up as id be interested to see what they look like?
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I thought you do have to remove both cams to fit the inlet? ive always done it this way. New chains approx £9
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abfs are 18mm taller blocks. I used a 6a, you need to use the 1.8 sump and oil pick up pipe,and source a 2l 8v oil filter housing 120k is nothing on a 6a as they rarely get ragged. Mine had done 155k
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I found that i needed to space the tensioner pulley out away from charger bracket to line up with the other 1. Mike is using a merc 1 from g-werks, im in the process of getting one and giving it a try. stoney, link?
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When i did the 5stud conversion, i used vento parts. Remembered you need to use the anti roll bar aswell
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to fit the complete hub, you need wishbones, ball joints, and cv joints to go wide track which is 6mm wider.
