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flusted

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Everything posted by flusted

  1. Will look better than standard but i prefer the fk half smoke or half clears myself
  2. I use a product called MUCK OFF! they sell it in bicycle shops to clean grease and grime off bikes,it works very well,just spray it on and wash off in a few mins
  3. If it is that,just bin it and stick a suitable sized deodrant can lid over it!
  4. As stated before,k-jet is good for well over 200bhp when tuned correctly
  5. Ive found that it takes a while to build up and i prefer to be able to plant the pedal and get instant response,also havin 17ins kills acceleration! Fitted a very early mk2 16v inlet (41mm?) on my parents 16v and sold there 50mm 1,my god,wot a difference! there car flys off the line with no hesitation!
  6. I dont understand? warm air return?
  7. Ive just fitted a flowed head to mine and wow! what a difference!!!!!! Going back to 42mm manifold this weekend and guna get it dynod again in july
  8. The part nos indicate port sizes! the o51 has small inlet ports to improve low down.I have a flowed o51 on mine
  9. The 2l 16v is still k-jet,which uses completly different injectors to the vr6.Also the meterhead controls how much fuel is sent to the injectors so i think changing them wont make a difference.
  10. They are carbs,do almost bugger all for power and go out of tune every week.
  11. Standard k-jet is good for upto 200bhp so cant see the need for bigger injectors.When stealth dynod my car they did the wur mod which basically involves richening the mixture across the whole rev range,and they also set co level to 2%
  12. DIY throttle body full kit is around £2000!
  13. The idea is to drill the wing side so no hot air gets in.Also vw would of drilled holes everywhere if they didnt have to comply to noise regulations etc
  14. Ok i shoot myself in the foot! Scientific rigour would point to more air entering box due to the increased surface area open to atmosphere...........That sounded like i knew wot i was on about!
  15. I was runnin 2 exhaust cams and a 4branch and made 162bhp,since then ive now fitted the 50mm inlet,gasflowed head and vsam. My advice to you would be to steer clear of aftermarket cams,and probaly get a 2l,with 1800 cams and a 4branch fitted.Should be in your budget.Would also suggest a rolling road as stealth racing got the most outta my set up,couldnt of got such good figures without them
  16. Can you prove that? Ive drilled many a airbox and when joined with a nice cold air feed,works really well and sounds the bollox
  17. flusted

    Ecotek valve

    saxo mod only,had 1,sounds like a fart and done f all
  18. Im currently planning on fitting tbs on my valver but its by no means cheap.Im having an inlet manifold fabricated at the mo and il will be running megasquirt standalone fuel injection.Not sure on power gains but it will sounds nice!! also you can tune the toque characteristics by fitting longer trumpets to the tbs
  19. Or fitting itbs :lol: I think v-sam can add advance as the first map i ran had -2 degrees at 6000rpm and the map h100vw sent me has +18degrees!!!!! :shock:
  20. when i dynod my valver it made 162bhp at the fly but only 112bhp at the wheels! thats runnin 17s tho
  21. v-sam allows ignition timing to be altered across the rev range.I can basically write a map with as much or as little advance anywhere in the rev range
  22. The kr ecu only controls timing not fuelling so cant really be remapped.Instead you can have the wur mod done like i have and set co to 2%
  23. the grounding only works with ignition off.heck you have permanent live at the switch
  24. Think you can use 2e pistons to drop the compression
  25. If the cambelt was a tooth out to start with,it would need to be advanced more to run properly.
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