blue95 0 Posted July 19, 2018 Either way a good buy mate Must've been remanufactured by vw then, to have the stickers and etchings on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted July 19, 2018 May be worth changing some of the gaskets & seals if it's been on a shelf and dry for 10+ years Jim. Crank seals at least as you really don't want to be replacing them weeks after getting it back in and running! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 19, 2018 May just do that before i fit the crank pulley, don't fancy having to take that off in the future. Cam sensor was a good shout, totally different and single chain/sprockets too, so timing covers need to come off anyway, the chain tensioner is the old style so will have to change that too. Do these pics work? Cams look like they have never turned to me Found some corrosion on the valve, sprayed some penetrating fluid in there and most of it came off, left fluid soaking in there overnight so will clean it out tomorrow. Hoping i can get away without taking head off etc, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 19, 2018 Excellent.. hopefully a new old stock motor will be the end to all your woes! Look forward to seeing updates as and when you get it into the car :) I hope so :lol: think I'm going to get a gearbox rebuilt as well as I'm sure that making noises now... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted July 20, 2018 May just do that before i fit the crank pulley, don't fancy having to take that off in the future. Cam sensor was a good shout, totally different and single chain/sprockets too, so timing covers need to come off anyway, the chain tensioner is the old style so will have to change that too. Do these pics work? Cams look like they have never turned to me Found some corrosion on the valve, sprayed some penetrating fluid in there and most of it came off, left fluid soaking in there overnight so will clean it out tomorrow. Hoping i can get away without taking head off etc, You could of course upgrade to USA MK4 spec management including the variable inlet manifold (cheap schrick) to build something unique? I think the engine code is AFP if you want to look into it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 20, 2018 Interesting. Just had a quick google and one person suggests the whole camshafts are different. Would i be best putting my own cams in. Or i could fit some performance ones if i made my mind up :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted July 20, 2018 Interesting. Just had a quick google and one person suggests the whole camshafts are different. Would i be best putting my own cams in. Or i could fit some performance ones if i made my mind up :lol: I'm sure if you looked on the vortex you'd find the answer? I only know of one MK4 12V 2wd and that is Roger Moores Bamberg VR6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alex303 0 Posted August 5, 2018 Following this thread with a lot of interest as am just about to order up one of these new (old stock) engines too, thanks for posting the link to cabmasters (in the other thread) Alex Got my new engine yesterday, Its a 2.8, but new and unused stock (just been hiding away in a warehouse for a few years. Seemed a good option for me, figured i could run it in and then look at fitting some cams or a charger/turbo in the future. Came with everything, even spark plugs, i just need to fit a crank pulley. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted August 9, 2018 Have decided to convert to OBD2 as well now, Bought an engine loom so far, just need to find out all the other bits i need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 9, 2018 You won't regret it Jim, one of the best vr6 mods I've done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted August 9, 2018 What difference does it make? Bit more power? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted August 9, 2018 Definitely the right way to go Jim, one of the best mods I did to my VR6. On paper you don't get the peak power so BHP you'll find a little less than expected BUT the torque curve is much better which is the benefit. The power seems to come much earlier so you don't get that 3k kick/laziness but unless you run a schrick you can't have low down torque & peak power, the best setup would be OBD2 & a schrick... or an 24v I found quite an improvement in MPG, also personally never had a problem with idle but everyone does say it improves (built into throttle body). Tonnes of info in OBD2 thread but you will not regret it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonedef 9 Posted August 9, 2018 Another thumbs up for OBD2, great upgrade. I sold my Schrick manifold when I did it as I couldn’t find the inlet elbow for less than new money which was around £450 at the time! Still running Schrick 268s with it though so the top end feels pretty good too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 9, 2018 Yep as above the power/torque delivery is better, improves idle, better economy. Unless you're redlining it all the time tou wont notice the drop off in power atbthe top end. I've just recently installed the schrick but working through teething problems so cant advise there just yet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted August 11, 2018 Is there a thread about doing the conversion. Managed to get the engine loom, an inlet with throttle body and a maf and ecu. Just hoping it's all correct stuff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 11, 2018 Theres this one: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?87250-VR6-OBD2-Harness-Adaptation Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 11, 2018 I would also say to keep some of the extra earths. I removed all the unnecessary ones to keep the new loom tidy but wish i'd left a few. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted August 13, 2018 Cheers Hasan, Looks a bit more involved than i thought, but i'm sure doing one step at a time its not as bad as it seems Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 2, 2018 Got a Borescope and looked inside the new engine, find a bit more rust on an exhaust valve, will probably be fine but i think for peace of mind I'm going to take the head off and take valves out to clean them up. Already have some arp studs and a head gasket so not really going to cost me anything and means i get to use the arps rather than have them sat in a box Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 3, 2018 A few pics Bit of rust on top of one cylinder, (luckily its not a part that comes into contact with piston) Am thinking if i take head apart i shouldn't need to renew anything? I've got spare valve seals from a gasket kit i bought in the past. Will i need any kind of lubes for assembling it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 4 Posted September 3, 2018 Just use engine oil for re-assembly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 26, 2018 Not much of an update really, been a bit slow as bought the Fiesta ST and busy spending money on that. Managed to get some schimmel cams now and just waiting on a guy thats making me a crank pulley locking tool. Then i'll be able to get engine all assembled. Still not sorted out the dodgy running, tried plugs, coilpack, maf, had ruled out the HT leads as they aren't very old, but going to try changing them next i think (kept the old ones which were fine when i took them off). Started the car at the weekend and thought i heard that noise of something shorting out so hopefully its a lead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted November 26, 2018 Did it sound like a ticking Jim ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 26, 2018 Yeah but more clicky than ticky. :lol: Pulled the ht lead off this evening and found the leads on cylinder 1&3 both had splits. Not in the lead but the rubber part that joins to the socket bit on spark plug end. Think I've caught them with the removal tool at some point. Refitted the old beru leads, (they don't seem to have the same rubber bit as the bremi ones, so probably a better design imo) Not started car too check it yet, but fingers crossed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted November 26, 2018 Fingers crossed for you Jim . The ticking , clicking noise you described did sound like a broken lead or when you remove one lead from the dizzy/coil . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites