Cressa 44 Posted June 21, 2022 That is a ball ache of a job with no easy solution apart from effort. Well done in tackling it as they always look great when re-foamed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 21, 2022 Good shout on removing the bonnet, might look at doing that. Thanks Cressa, hopefully it'll be worth it! Any suggestions on adhesive to use? Ive got some Trim Fix spray as well as 3M double sided tape. Hasan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted June 21, 2022 Mine came with adhesive on the backing. I thought they all did !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) Oof tough job, and one I have been putting off as well. I would suggest that, from my experience, white spirit isn't really up to the job of cleaning adhesives. I have tended to find that cellulose paint thinners do a pretty decent job at removing sticky gunk. Not found anything that does it better. Obviously it's not pleasant stuff so use in well ventilated area, wear gloves... etc... but it's always the nastiest stuff that works the best! Bit of a soak in that should dissolve it nicely to scrape off. Will still require a fair bit of work, but might be easier than the with the white spirit. Edited June 22, 2022 by oneohtwo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted June 22, 2022 What about using a steamer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) Car's on the drive atm although the sun hits it from about 2pm to 7pm. @oneohtwowould the thinners be ok on bonnet paint? Would want to have to respray it! @MJA have you had any success with a steamer? Would be interested in your thoughts. I've got one of those cheapo handheld steamers so will give that a try too Thanks Hasan Edited June 22, 2022 by fla Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 32 Posted June 22, 2022 I haven't used it for this job but the steamer has been great at removing adhesive from DIY jobs around the house and also gets all the grime and factory wax out of the engine bay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonedef 9 Posted June 22, 2022 I used glue and tar spot remover, still a gooey and horrible job. Left it off after I’d had the car painted though, didn’t want to ruin the shiny under bonnet! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oneohtwo 8 Posted June 22, 2022 4 hours ago, fla said: Car's on the drive atm although the sun hits it from about 2pm to 7pm. @oneohtwowould the thinners be ok on bonnet paint? Would want to have to respray it! @MJA have you had any success with a steamer? Would be interested in your thoughts. I've got one of those cheapo handheld steamers so will give that a try too Thanks Hasan I found it to be ok - I used it to remove the sticky stuff from the black bump strips along the side of the car and the paint was fine after. I think as long as you wash it off pretty quickly it should be OK, but as ever - I'd try a small area first and see, always a risk it might do something odd. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 22, 2022 3 hours ago, tonedef said: I used glue and tar spot remover, still a gooey and horrible job. Left it off after I’d had the car painted though, didn’t want to ruin the shiny under bonnet! i'm also almost in two minds to leave the adhesive pads off and clip on some under bonnet deadening like most other cars have nowadays. It wont fit the bonnet profile too accurately though so there's that aesthetic consideration..i've got a large piece from a BMW (i think) in the garage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted January 21, 2023 Well the windscreen leak on mine meant that the soundproofing was soaked. Id made up some new pads with some mlv and closed/open cell foam. Decided to make up another foam piece to cover the raised profile in the rear and then stick the mlv on top. Just cut roughly with scissors but in the summer I'll do the other side properly with a knife. Carpet needs a good clean,, but again needs some nice weather to allow it to dry properly. The blue trim on the rear carpet piece ran and made a nice bluish green tracing on the edge. I hope it comes out.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 9, 2023 Wow, a while since i did an update! Removed the dash to do the heater diverter flap. The wiring is a real mess, and the diavia install had wires coming in front of and behind the metal supports. Great. Needed to cut them off and they'll then be resoldered. Anyway, I was thinking of simply rewrapping the looms with tesa tape, but my noise obsession tells me that these may still create a chafing noise in the dash. A lot of the foam tubes have crumbled so it needs redoing. What have you done which ended up being nice and silent? I will also be lining the inside of the dash and centre console with felt. Thanks Hasan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted April 9, 2023 The Diavia "fitters" (they weren't technicians for sure!) must have been on piece work..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 9, 2023 you're not wrong Dox!. Its really surprising how awkwardly it has been done. I would love to have a loom that just slots into place - you'll never see it but just knowing its been done properly is good enough for me. A bit like wearing stainless steel collar bones as opposed to plastic ones... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted April 9, 2023 They must have taken the dashboard out so why such a cobble up god only knows, unless it was a team effort, one does his bit, on to the next, then the next. YEEEHHHHHAAAAA! Diavia aka, Buffalo Bill and Wyatt Earp! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 20 Posted April 10, 2023 Looks a nightmare taking the dash out 😮 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 11, 2023 its not actually too difficult. there are only a handful of screws holding the dash in place, and most of us are pretty experienced in removing the dash and centre console, this is just a little more involved. Excellent guide from Goldfinger highlighted the sneaky screws and you just need a bit of care to remove it. I've now got to take out the heater box as i might as well do the heater matrix as a preventative measure now that the dash is out. One source of noise i've seen is the cables running under the insulation on the top of the bulkhead. Insulation will need to be removed, felt underneath, cables on top and then felt back again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted April 11, 2023 25 minutes ago, fla said: its not actually too difficult. there are only a handful of screws holding the dash in place, and most of us are pretty experienced in removing the dash and centre console, this is just a little more involved. Excellent guide from Goldfinger highlighted the sneaky screws and you just need a bit of care to remove it. I've now got to take out the heater box as i might as well do the heater matrix as a preventative measure now that the dash is out. One source of noise i've seen is the cables running under the insulation on the top of the bulkhead. Insulation will need to be removed, felt underneath, cables on top and then felt back again. From what I’ve read the matrix is different to the no A/C type. once I removed the air box from the shell it snapped in half, might be worth bracing it if you can? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted April 11, 2023 Ooo the aircon heater box.... I have plenty of pictures of that damned thing opened up. And alot of debris gets caught in there too. I made the decision to replace the aircon matrix at the time and Hell that was a journey.... for something that is obsolete. Good luck with what you decide, but happy to give the info of what I used to replace mine 😫👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABV-VR6 12 Posted April 11, 2023 Good to see that you're still working on it Hassan! The sound improvement ideas you have are really good ones. Good luck with your continuation! Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 11, 2023 8 hours ago, Dox said: From what I’ve read the matrix is different to the no A/C type. once I removed the air box from the shell it snapped in half, might be worth bracing it if you can? Did it snap along the join, or across? I hope not the latter! 5 hours ago, Cressa said: Ooo the aircon heater box.... I have plenty of pictures of that damned thing opened up. And alot of debris gets caught in there too. I made the decision to replace the aircon matrix at the time and Hell that was a journey.... for something that is obsolete. Good luck with what you decide, but happy to give the info of what I used to replace mine 😫👍 That would be great. Do you have any pics you could email me perhaps? I'll DM you my email address 4 hours ago, ABV-VR6 said: Good to see that you're still working on it Hassan! The sound improvement ideas you have are really good ones. Good luck with your continuation! Cheers Thanks JF. It'll never be anything like yours though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABV-VR6 12 Posted April 12, 2023 It's the passion that maters! And you're doing an excellent job with it mate. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted April 12, 2023 Mine cracked vertically, fan housing is riveted to the air box, Alloy just snapped Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted April 12, 2023 Mine was riveted and glued. I had to cut down the sides with a Stanley blade and drill the rivets out 😳 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites