Just Installed new speakers in VR6.....Sounds pants!!!!

[Scott 0]

Hi All,

 

I have installed new speakers in my corrado - Kicker dual axials.... supposed to be excellent speakers!!! - But they lack depth, sound tiny and have little bass....

 

Can anyone explain why?

 

I have:

 

two 6*4's in rear

two 5 1/4's in doors

and two 4 inch in the dash...

 

I did notice that the ones in the dash dont fit very well when removing the tweeters and sticking new speakers in dash I have a 1cm hole round the speaker.... but the rest of them fit spot on....

 

Do I need to get an amp to run these speakers (DX series) - running a Pioneer mosfet 45w*4 OEL unit ...

 

Any help appreciated as really fed up with sound system at moment... my OE stereo in my Pug sounds better!!! :mad:

 

Cheers

 

Scott.

[Henny 0]

check that you have ALL of the speakers wired the same way ( + to +, - to - ) else you'll get some odd phasing effects which could make it sound as you describe... :?

[Scott 0]

I am using the orig VW loom... does anyone know which colours are positive / negative so I can check??

[G60Jet 1]

Rewire the car the OEM wires are pants and get a small amp, changes are the head unit wont power the new speakers that well

[Banana Man 0]

As what nigel says the OEM wires are really pants get some decent oxygen freewires fed to the new speakers and also it might be worth investing in a crossover to filter the right frequencies to the right speakers as this will also help with the sound quality! Whats the rms power handling and the max if the rms is more than 100w I would get a small amp to run the speakers off but I should think you would be ok with the amp in the headunit.

 

Good luck

 

Cheers

Ant

[Scott 0]

Max RMS of the 5 1/4's are 75W... the rest are lower. So I would have thought that the stereo amp would be adequate.

 

Seems as though the wiring is miles off - will see if can re wire it... not so sure about the dash mounted co axials - reckon they should be tweeters only>?

 

Just seems when turn it up it sounds tingy and the if turn it up more then 4*6's in the back start to break up... :mad:

[Storm 0]

Use the balance and fader to check each speaker individually, this usually highlights if youve got them round the wrong way.

[Bobbywhacker 0]

In the OEM stereo loom, all wires with a stripe are negative, all solid coloured wires are positive. The loom that bad? Seems to be running me new speakers really well and I used the oxygen free wire on the old car.. sounds same 2 me!

[andycowuk 0]

Max RMS of the 5 1/4's are 75W... the rest are lower. So I would have thought that the stereo amp would be adequate.

 

what is the rms value, per channel for the head unit? (somewhere around 4-8 watts I bet)

[Captaincook 0]

The first thing I would check is the polatity of the speakers that you have fitted, as long as you have done the same thing on each speaker it should be fine, ie ALL the solid colour wires to the larger speaker terminal or ALL the striped wires to the large terminal, the first is the correct way, I think.

 

The original wires are fine for what your running, Ive upgraded my speaker to infinities, I have used the standard wires for the front and rear speakers and to be honest it sounds fine to me. Its not the ideal setup because the front output on the stereo is running 4 speakers 3.5" in the dash and 5.25 in the doors.

 

Ok eventually I will wire the new speakers with better wires, but before I connect to the amp already installed in the car I would like to fit a component set in the front, but for now it sound fine running just off the headunit,

 

I honestly dont think that your going to get much depth from the std speakers, one because they not that big and secondly they are not as well enclosed as some of the newer cars are.

[brian g60 corrado 0]

i have similer problem ,i bought cheap [£50] alpine components for the front and they also sound tinny ,also now have an amp fitted to them with big speaker wire ,and still sound tinny..... what is the answer??? is it worth buying realy exspensive speakers for the front

[corradokid 0]

Ok, basically you have used the standard wiring right? If you have then you are running the headunit with two speakers of EACH front channel. This will either mean 8 ohm resistance and much less power from the head unit (resulting in distortion when you try and wick it right up) Or 2ohm which your headunit will not run at happily at all ( check your pioneer manual ).

 

Did a shop recommend this or did you choose?

 

My advice would be to disconnect the dash speakers and then see how it sounds then as how your running at the moment is a very bad idea.

 

Also as a side note, absolute polarity is not always correct, by the time the sound reaches your ear it can be out of phase anyway, so have a listen and wire it how it sounds best to you.

 

Hope this helps

[dazzyvr6 0]

might be worth buying a crossover

[Majik 0]

The headunit is 45watts per channel would mean apprx 11watts rms, id get an amp personally but wiring to the doors is abit of a mission, and the original wiring is shite.

[kongo127 0]

I am not happy with the my Corrado sound too...

I have an Alpine CDE-9822RB (wonderfull sound 4X45W) and the door speakers are Kenwood KFC-1318C (specially indicated for the Corrado) they can handle a 110W peak output power. :D

When i am listening at higher volume, the door speakers tend to make some sound distorcion! :(

I am sure that the wiring is ok.

I think that the sound would be better if the speakers were attached to a metal part (door example), because attached to a plastic part... hmmmm

So what i really learned is that a crossover is a must for this car! :idea:

Beacuse his ressonce box isn´t the best one...

[Scott 0]

Thought would bring this thread up again as the sound system really is bugging me now - my Pug OE system sounds better!!! :mad:

 

So technically I am running 4 speakers off the 2 outputs for front? - So should I get a crossover? (how much?) or should I just disconnect them?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The problem is mainly due to the crap door speaker housings and the tweeters being so far away from them. No speaker will sound good on a feeble plastic baffle! Then of course you've got the two 5" drivers facing eachother, so cancel eachother out!

 

You need to get yourself on the Audioscape GB mate. They're proper enclosures made of an acoustically inert material and the drivers are pointed at the listeners, not at your feet! Then you need to letterbox the door membrane and dynamat and eggfoam the door skin. That will improve the sound immensely, and then at a later date you can upgrade to some really good 6.5" components and get a much fuller sound.

 

K

[Scott 0]

Sorry for being slow on this Kev - but where is the link for the Audioscape GB??

 

I do think though that having a 8 ohm load on the front speakers isnt helping.... :roll:

 

Will a cross over solve that problem?

 

As I believe the standard kit had a cap on the tweeters therefore acting as a crude cross over... ?

[pablo_vr6 0]

unplug the dash ones and see how u go from there. that may help lack of bass.

 

also may help tinnyness as the std setup doesnt have tweeters down below as well as up top and if you are using 2 sets of coaxials (each with their own tweeters) they may well get harsh!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Some Headunits are OK driving 8 ohms, most pioneers can. But more resistance equals less current available for the speakers, so get the total load per channel down to 4 ohms if you can. If the speakers are 8 ohm each, run them in parallel to get 4 ohms and use a simple 1st order crossover, e.g a 3.3uf capacitor on the tweeter. Adding a crossover won't help as they're optimised to the speakers they're driving, so you need to know all the speaker details before going down that route.

 

The Audioscape GB is in the ICE and Secure forum mate. As I say, that is the reason the sound is thin. Dump the rear 6x4s, they're shite, no matter what brand. There's no substitute for size I'm afraid. Concentrate on getting enough volume and stereo imaging at the front and then add a 4 channel amp and sub box at a later date. You can bridge the rear two amp channels into a ported 10" sub and feed the front channels to the door speakers. That will give you an excellent sound without being silly about it, whilst keeping the ICE weight and clutter to a minimum........And, a very, very good sound :mrgreen:

[pablo_vr6 0]

if they are in the std locations will they be 2Ohm? As the 2 drivers on each side would be in parallel and each will be 4Ohm.

 

as i say tho unplug the dash ones and this will bring the load to 4Ohms.

[Scott 0]

I do have all co-axial speakers.... all kicker DS series.

 

I am running it off a Pioneer CD OEL Unit that has 45W per channel.

 

I will try disconnecting the front dash speakers first... and see what happens.

 

If that fails then its the 'full monty' like Kev mentions!!!

 

Out of curiousity does anyone have a spare set of front tweeters (OE) for the Corrado that sound ok?

 

Cheers for help

 

Scott

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah if he's running 2 sets of 4ohm coaxials in parallel, the head unit will see 2 ohms and not many HUs like that, but the MOSFET Pioneers can handle it, just.

[pablo_vr6 0]

HUs arent that bad these days - I was able to run JL 3ways off one for a little while. was the good JVC if i remember right. great HU :)

[dinkus 10]

2 ohms!!?! :shock: don't expect the HU to last too long without bursting into flames! lol