Does anyone have a photo of manual windows please?

[TomB 0]

I’m trying to get my G60 back on the road, and am considering making the step from electric to manual (one of the cable sheaths snapped in removing the regulator).

I’ve found some door cards, for manual windows but think that there should be a blanking plate for where the manual winding mechanism to which the handle attaches, where it protrudes through the door card in place of the electric window switch.

if anyone has a photo of the arrangement they can post up, I’d be most grateful!

Thanks.

[fendervg 33]

I think the Corrado had different door cards for manual or electric - never seen a blanking plate on any. The Mk2 Golf used the same cards, and there used to be black plastic covers like a grommet for the window winders and the mirror adjusting cables.

I could be wrong though - like many times before! 😉

[fendervg 33]

This is off the Vortex, so not 100% sure if it would be factory - I'd say all leather interiors were electric, so the door cards would be cloth. The handles apparently are from a Passat.

[TomB 0]

34 minutes ago, fendervg said:

This is off the Vortex, so not 100% sure if it would be factory - I'd say all leather interiors were electric, so the door cards would be cloth. The handles apparently are from a Passat.

Thanks for posting that, I'd seen it in my research this morning,  but reading around the topic suggested it was a conversion (driven by broken electric windows...😁)

It must be an error in the door cards I'm looking at, as the passenger one has a hole for the manual winder,  but the driver's one has the square hole for the switches.

Back to the drawing board!

[fendervg 33]

This looks interesting though - check out part #7:

I can't find any evidence of different door cards for electric vs manual either, at least not listed. Maybe they were the same and they punched out holes and fitted blanks where required?

[seanl82 23]

1 hour ago, TomB said:

Thanks for posting that, I'd seen it in my research this morning,  but reading around the topic suggested it was a conversion (driven by broken electric windows...😁)

It must be an error in the door cards I'm looking at, as the passenger one has a hole for the manual winder,  but the driver's one has the square hole for the switches.

Back to the drawing board!

That's a late card fitted with a manual wonder. The early door cards had the switch set within the panel, whereas late cards have the switch in the pocket just behind the speaker grille. You can see a blank has been put in on that picture where it would have been.

[Keyo 47]

I have heard chris Ferry mention he had manual window parts in the past. 

[tonedef 9]

My first Corrado had manual windows as standard and I’m fairly sure it didn’t have switch blanks. I’ll take a look for any photos of it that might have caught the door cards when I’m home later in the week but probably won’t have anything, I traded it for the current one over twenty years ago so I was from a time when photos were taken on film and had to be developed!

Edited April 14, 2021 by tonedef

[easypops 8]

I’ve got a set of doorpockets with the switch blanks. Taken from an early VR6 with early interior, electric windows, switches on the doorcard as normal

[Dox 23]

You’ll have more trouble sourcing manual windows than electric, when you come to sell viewers will wonder what else has been bodged?

at current prices originality is key / everything to some?

[_Matt_ 32]

You might be able to source from Europe as they had models in more basic specs - some didn't have central locking. Personally i can see the attraction of manual windows (and sunroofs) - less to go wrong. 

[1xshaunx1 27]

5 hours ago, Dox said:

You’ll have more trouble sourcing manual windows than electric, when you come to sell viewers will wonder what else has been bodged?

at current prices originality is key / everything to some?

This ^^^^^
why can’t you replace or fix it with a second hand one I did for my drivers one 3 years ago. Easy as and works great

[Dox 23]

1 minute ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

This ^^^^^
why can’t you replace or fix it with a second hand one I did for my drivers one 3 years ago. Easy as and works great

7 Years ago I sold 2 doors complete for 99p....

[1xshaunx1 27]

Which one is broken chap

[TomB 0]

Thanks all, so far, I’ve discovered that the driver’s side one is damaged (I suspect by the bending of the door).  The yellow plastic guide at the top of the channel has broken allowing the cable sheath to move past it.  This is going to affect the mechanism.  The cable sheath further down has also broken (although that can be taped up to stop it moving as the cable still runs freely).

I think that I’m going to put/leave the manual winders in for now just so I can get it back on the road in a drivable condition to get it to a body shop to fix the rest of it!  While it’s there, I can look at repair kits/replacement regulators to fix the electric mechanism and refit that at a later date.

 

[1xshaunx1 27]

I’m sure fla had a fix for this

[fla 9]

5 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

I’m sure fla had a fix for this

Thanks Shaun. 

Yes the easiest thing to do is to get the smallest u-bracket you can find (Screwfix do them i think) and screw this across the top of the channel, underneath the yellow plastic.  This holds the plastic portion in place and maintains tension in the cable guide. Best to pull the cable sheath as far up as possible before you mark the holes to drill, then just screw the loop down.

Use the base portion, which is usually a slotted billet piece, on the cable side, and put the loop portion on the other side - if that makes sense!

Hope that helps

 

 

Hasan

[TomB 0]

1 hour ago, fla said:

Thanks Shaun. 

Yes the easiest thing to do is to get the smallest u-bracket you can find (Screwfix do them i think) and screw this across the top of the channel, underneath the yellow plastic.  This holds the plastic portion in place and maintains tension in the cable guide. Best to pull the cable sheath as far up as possible before you mark the holes to drill, then just screw the loop down.

Use the base portion, which is usually a slotted billet piece, on the cable side, and put the loop portion on the other side - if that makes sense!

Hope that helps

 

 

Hasan

That’s really helpful, thanks Hasan.