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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/31/2022 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    That is terrible. Are you fitting a one way valve on the line as well as the new pump? Here are pics of my old pump that I changed last year. Which I assume was the original but not really any markings
  2. 1 point
    Just checked, no markings on the body but I've no idea if it is the original, car has 133k miles.
  3. 1 point
    Sent you the email they sent me. You’ll note the guys name. He’s the one you want to deal with.
  4. 1 point
    yes i have nice yellow Billet 4s on my VR6 i absolutely love them, far superior to OE brakes & awesome performance i chose HiSpec as they were the only 4 pots i could get which would fit under the 15" speedlines as far as i know there are several reputable workshops that recommend HiSpecs for corrado's - pretty sure ive seen John Mitchell Racing fitting them to customers cars you can give them you full wheel spec & they will confirm if you can run 312's or tell you the max disc size for your setup i found them to be very helpful but i would say to not use their spacers if you need them as the cheap ones they did me were not hubcentric
  5. 1 point
    I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I’m sure Chris will reveal his method, but when I did this on my car, I used a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle attachment to soften the wax, and then wiped off with a cloth. I then used a degreaser and a cloth to remove the remainder. You can keep going with panel wipe if necessary, but I was happy to just reapply some fresh clear wax.
  8. 1 point
    Hi - a late 95 car should already have a VDO pump in it, as the Pierburg was only used for about 18 months for the early VRs. Your fuel gauge sender and float should just swap straight over on to a new VDO pump or swirl pot.
  9. 1 point
    Broke up for Christmas last Thursday so got some time on my hands. The Corrado assumed the winter prep position again today!
  10. 1 point
    It doesn't give you nearly as many options as on a newer car, but you can at least view and clear faults for the engine and for the ABS ECU. It's also possible to monitor a wide range of sensor values - basically nearly every sensor that talks to the ECU will show up in a measuring block. Are you seeing any fault codes? High RPM at idle would certainly suggest an air leak somewhere after the maf, or a fauly ISV. I think there is a trick somewhere in the VAG-COM interface for exercising the ISV solenoid - sometimes a proper clean will also help. Check out all your vacuum lines and hoses (to the brake servo, FPR etc.) and the EGR and crankcase breather system - there is also a black baffle muffler box connected to the ISV that often cracks and leaks air.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for all your kind words. Yes totally agree one would be crazy to think if you nut and bolt you will get your money back- I expect if these two corrado to out live many of us on here now if garaged and taken care of- all the salt and daily driving is that kills them- in fact renovation can be pulling back the clock of 25 years use . Im 100 percent moving onto buying a car restored or in low mileage - summer salt free car- just makes easier ownership and to come out of them- I just like the buzz of trying new cars so need to buy my cars renovation free in the future- easy to sell on and use straight away and not be double figures out of of pocket if i sell. I might well get a 16v runabout in a couple of years and enjoy if for its worts and have a comprehensive brake down cover. I will still be about though guys dont worry.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks to all of you for the help, really appreciate it. So.... I felt like to go to the bottom of this I had to do something I promised myself not to do again after replacing the heater matrix... I only had to remove a few trims though this time and got a access to it. Replaced it with the old one and got all 4 speeds working again! So that new one must be defective I guess. Case closed, up to the next ha haa. Cheers
  13. 1 point
    New forum title 🙂 Looks great from here. First Corrado I had was a 2.0 16v in white. Freshly polished in fading light makes all those lines/curves really pop. I said I wouldn’t have another white car, but I’d have that in a breath 👍🏻.
  14. 1 point
    . I need to stop chasing perfection and just enjoy it for what it is. That right there is what it’s all about. My wife said this with a smirk 11 years ago “ it’ll never be finished “ but I don’t care as long as I can use and enjoy it most of the time. There is always something I’ve got to look at but it doesn’t have to be perfect or I’ll be too frightened of anything happening to it, to use it.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well
  17. 1 point
    I wouldn’t buy a recently restored car, the recent price increases make a bondo and newspaper restoration a financial win for a seller, then 12 months down the line it has more blisters than a herpes convention. If you can find a car with online history from a good owner cashing out (rather than cashing in) that’s where I suggest you put your money.
  18. 1 point
    That is shame but at least it sounds like you'll get closure on that car. Pleased to see you're still going to get one and I will keep an eye I've been through pain of resto and bodywork etc and would recommend avoiding all that hassle and buying a good one straight off. Im not normally someone to worry about mileage (155k on mine) but concede in the UK market people would sooner by a ropey 100k car over a well sorted to 155k, so if I were doing it again I'd be aiming for sub 120k miles, great body and make sure it had leather (cost me a £grand to make that happen which on top of bodywork and engine work makes for an expensive game and a car that will never be worth its cost..). The engine can be sorted at say Stealth racing but the rest of the mechanicals (apart from ABS) is boggo mk3 golf so anyone can do it. All the best and keep us posted on outcomes of the old car. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    No worries bud glad to help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
    He still has the paper work for it he may be will to see if he can put the plate on retention and sell the plate I could ask him Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    Well we can happily help you as we are all poking our noses around. What boxes does it need to tick?
  22. 1 point
    Sad ending, but time for a new relationship and get yourself another
  23. 1 point
    👍🏻. Without this mantra, the 8v would be scattered across the four corners of the kingdom by now. That said, I do feel like I’ve taken this theory to beyond any logical boundary with the VR. Injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning soon. And then other jobs. If I was hung up about driving it, I’d have thrown the towel in years ago. Great thing to look at, be it in dis-repair or gleaming in the sun.
  24. 1 point
    Just got to keep plugging away. I was real down on it a few weeks back, but knew there were better days ahead. Sounds like you have your hands full with your cars already ? Weighed up selling it and procuring a Volvo estate. I just couldn’t psychologically open up the life change that such a purchase would entail. My attention now moves towards getting the VR6 running. ho hum, out of the frying pan etc etc
  25. 1 point
    Looks good now, fingers crossed for you 🤞
  26. 1 point
    I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan
  27. 1 point
    I only have a Scgrick fitted to a very standard set up, for now. But it certainly wants to go earlier in the rev range and well worth it. Good luck with finding one, you just need to be quick. I shall keep a look out for you. Don't be put off by missing parts as the can be worked around. I have a digital shift controller that switches the flap over and is quite cool as you can set the rpm and see what it us at. All works fine
  28. 1 point
    Thanks got mine today best quality loom available and a good price.
  29. 1 point
    Parked my car at the local farm shop earlier then stood drooling over a 997 GT3 a few spaces down before I nipped in the shop. When I come out there’s a guy stood looking at the Corrado, “Love the car” he says, goes on to tell me he wanted one in the day but never had one etc etc. I get in to leave and he gets in his GT3, wish I’d realised, he might have done a straight swap!!!
  30. 1 point
    TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.
  31. 1 point
    Look in the wiki here - there’s a full reset procedure, a bit more involved that’s just disconnecting the battery. Did you check for any vacuum leaks anywhere? Even a small leak can affect idle - you can get a vac gauge to put inline with a t-piece to test. Could also be a faulty MAF reading - do you have access to VCDS and a test lead to check out all the signals?
  32. 1 point
    If it’s been say for years as you say, it’s probably valve stem seals and such in the head that’s gone all hard. The block may still be good with that mileage and may not need a rebore. Stealth quoted in the region of £1500 for head refurb, chains and guides a couple of years ago. If the block needs work when he opens it up, your car is in the right garage for the work. Get the crank seals done while it’s in bits either way though. It’s well worth asking to speak to Vince and get a quote, he really does know the VR6 and doesn’t waste your money or time.
  33. 1 point
    If you have the K brace you will have to drill though mate . The trimport looks bolt on bolt off . Here it is anyway. https://www.bafmotorsport.co.uk/products/volkswagen-golf-mk2-k-brace?variant=38007283056793&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-27&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZjAbYUnFPLhMC0SmwT_08eJK1ib2D-MiDne2-yM2Ps38PuBa2dXty8aAuriEALw_wcB This video is how they mount fittings etc.
  34. 1 point
    I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids
  35. 1 point
    It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !
  36. 1 point
    I'm sure Fuzz appreciated your input Kip! Plus seeing your absolutely astounding car would give the guys a target
  37. 1 point
    good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa
  38. 1 point
    I don’t know the proper part number I’m afraid but couldn’t you use a speed nut or captive nut like below. https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/300330970?type=shopping&msclkid=d7e8d2334ec315c86d72b013b925bfc7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - Brands&utm_term=4579809529099503&utm_content=Shopping - Miscellaneous Engine Parts-1 - OE-Quality https://www.bing.com/search?q=captive+nut&form=APIPH1&PC=APPL
  39. 1 point
    Nice. Just as others have said, easy to live with, easy to work on (all that space in the engine bay is a blessing at times), but be cautious with parts (lights especially) as parts are getting hard. Fun to drive and rarer (by some way) than a Storm. What’s not to like 🙂. I had Estorils on my first Corrado. They had diamond cut faces ( they were an option at the time) and looked great. Having run mine everyday for ten years, I’d recommend changing the wiper arms/blades to aero type. As the standards are hopeless. Lupo GTI or Audi TT is the way to go. You may also benefit from an upgraded headlight loom as well. There’s loads of replacement/upgraded parts available. Lastly, stick the MPG setting on the clocks and see what you can get up to on a long drive. 47.7mpg before you ask 😎.
  40. 1 point
    Great colour and pretty rare. Lovely golden fleck. The only black id want. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    The current wheels suit the car imo
  42. 1 point
    I have a bodywork guy coming to take a look at the car tomorrow. Once I have a price back then I will way up the odds of fixing up the car vs staying married!
  43. 1 point
    I wouldn’t advise looking at wiring diagrams you don’t understand just before you go to bed. But I’ve woken up understanding what you were trying to do. Ignore my last post it’s completely wrong. You through me off the scent a bit with the thermo fuse positive. He’s using the switches as ground so where you show a positive in your drawing on thermo fuse should be ground/negative. He’s doing it completely opposite to me. so using his drawing you screenshot, for the aux pump signals you’ll have to use pin 87 off of the 4 pin relays because of the constant ignition live you are using on the aux pump relay trigger, it’s the same but different.
  44. 1 point
    Hi , My mate has a well sorted Alpine White VR in Leicester for sale- has a very nice black leather interior to - stealth looked after the car for him and has many new parts. Send me a pm and I can pass on you his details if your interested .
  45. 1 point
    Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.
  46. 1 point
    Moody - there are a few options available. I would say it's better to upgrade than try and find a working Corrado roof. My experiences to date - I bought a working corrado mechanism from a chap with the initals BR that was sold as working for £200. It broke on the second use. I wouldn't say it was the sellers fault but it's a 25+ year old bit of kit and certainly not worth £200. Don't do what I did - false economy. I then fitted a mk3 mecahansim with a Passat B4 moonroof. That combo works well - you can get the mech for about £45 (I use Leo GS the mk3 parts breaker on facebook - he is a great bloke and a moderator on a lot of groups). The passat moonroof can be picked up for around £50. I would sell mine if anyone wants it, it needs a new seal though. I wasn't a fan of the moonroof for my car. I prefered the stock tin panel. I got lucky and Chris F supplied me a bag of sunroof bits for a reasonable sum so I've got 3 corrado mechs built (2 x in car). I can't sell any of these though as I have 2 corrado's and need to keep it for spares. This is the best route to go - buy a broken mech and try and source a bag of bits (the bag of bits only cost me £50). I've seen somewhere someone has adapted the mk3 mech to work with the corrado inner panel. This is probably the best solution as the corrado mech is weak vs mk3. Mk3 mech out of the box will not auto slide the inner panel. I haven't looked into this with any detail yet.
  47. 1 point
    It's CCK068: HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com) Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.
  48. 1 point
    Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.
  49. 1 point
    So what has happened so far under my ownership. Well later that year August 2012 to be exact I met up with OSV and in exchange for some wonga I was given 263 cams. In Jan 2013 Meld went to DG and Graham set about future proofing her..... The timing chains, guides, tensioners, clutch, water housing, coil pack, lambda probe, ignition leads and spark plugs were replaced along with the cams getting fitted and a remap. A rattle in dash was done, front bumper bonnet and wings were resprayed and front and rear arp strut braces were added. I also bought a brand new 90mm lip spoiler from Graham (currently in garage. Got the car back in August as I'd told Graham I wasn't in a hurry to get it back. A year later Graham had her back for a service and a bit more fettling due to a loss of power - diagnostics fault finding and surgery commenced; the problem a blocked air filter and a cam position magnet failure. While there he also fitted a Kenwood KDC-BT73DAB radio and JBL by HARMANN GTO-5EZ/GTO-3EZ power amplifier. Now a few more pictures from shows attended: At the MK2 Golf Owners Club National meet: Nicely placed Meld has been put to bed during the Winters of 2013 & 14 and mainly been used to go to a number of shows when not in DG Autotech. attended shows are: Stanford Hall, All Types Bodelwyddan, Weston Park and the best (imo) Tatton Park. After Weston Park the roof lining started to peel I did try to repair using new glue but it just wasn't happening so a call on here and Purple Tom replied; deal struck and on on bank holiday weekend we drove up to Derbyshire to collect. Tips on fitting were past on and those tips made my life and the install much easier (thanks Tom) Nov 2015 I decided to go for a drive and she wouldn't start, she had been showing poor starting signs. Managed to find a Mobile Mechanic and he fitted a new starter motor only at the end of the install no start. Quick diagnostics by him and a frantic search on this forum by me for starting issues and we decided the ignition switch had gone....a week later and the part fitted Meld fired first time every time. 2016 has seen a change in wheel colour.......I didn't think I'd like the gold but they grew on me but due to an entrapment in the drive of my in laws farm after I'd come back from Weston Park last year; the alloys didn't get away scott free as the stones peppered them on my escape. So ready for this seasons shows I decided to get the LM's refurbished. The change did throw up mega issues though. I thought it would be easy so in May this year I took them to Platinum wheels in Swindon with the hope of getting them laser cut but due to them being split rims they coulbn't help, they didn't think their laser could manage the full dish, so a rethink and a chat with a friend put me onto his friend in Banbury. He's a powder coater and after a chat and a drive the wheels were handed over. 2 weeks later and I got them back, unfortunately due to the centre being changed back to how it should be the offset changed and when driving the rear were scrubbing the arch. Dialynx to the rescue (keep forgetting these guys are on my doorstep (granted the are more Audi specialists)) but when you see what they have done....well they must be good. After a few visits the idea height was found and this is it: The style and colour may not be to other people's taste but I didn't want bling wheels any more but I so love the LM alloy. New colour and new Dunlop Sportmaxx RT2 in 205/40/17 all round latest full photos
  50. 1 point
    The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.
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