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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 1 point
    If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system
  5. 1 point
    Few updates Bought a facia for the centre gauges to make it look better, its 3d printed Glued the LCD mount to the back Filling the face to make it smoother Click on picture below to se the video Video Sprayed the bonnet, needs some flatting now Then fitted this centre visor and today, the screen got fitted Still waiting for the DVLA to update my V5, only been 9 weeks so far, when I called they said it may take another 3 weeks which is a shame as I wanted to take it to VW Whitenoise 😞
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Did them last night mate- too spongy with a press- put it in at a slight angle the bush to get the first bit through the hole and then a large flathead screwdriver head to push/lever the other side through . Helps if you put the cross member on a vice wrapped in blanket to protect powder coat sp you have good access. .
  8. 1 point
    Changed the sensor today, no more abs light. Car feels great no vibrations, Just don't put steering wheel on lock and accelerate
  9. 1 point
    Thank you, means a lot! Here's the link of the VWMS coil pack where I got my source to do it. It was pretty easy to do mate: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/bosch-motorsport-coilpack-swap-with-stock-management.7584841/
  10. 1 point
    A few more pictures of the interior current condition....
  11. 1 point
    It’s a minefield mate. Do a lot of research and get an idea of what you going to do or you’ll end up like me with two sets of fans. I also made a double 11” set up before I went for 12”. That’s in the loft 😂😂🤣🤣
  12. 1 point
    Bit of rust treatment. But I have pulled out some degraded sponge..
  13. 1 point
    Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime
  14. 1 point
    Not the best quality but hopefully you can see how they clip on.
  15. 1 point
    Thought I'd try a different steering wheel 😉
  16. 1 point
    It's a tick box in your notification settings.
  17. 1 point
    Just seen these at Heritage, got to be a good thing for us, instead of being ripped off in a bidding war
  18. 1 point
    no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I use AMOS who is unpopular on here but he always has about 8 cars and years of supplies in his garage. Last time I went he had a nugget with a usa tailgate and third brake light. I would say he has the most parts in the UK- although I wouldn't take my car to be worked there as only let Vince work on my car.
  21. 1 point
    I have my Red 92 G60 Mk2 tornado 16v - my first resto - has sat for 2 years now and in need of a refresh Mk2 Pearl Grey 16v - currently rebuilding the engine (trying) and is currently a bare shell with bits of welding to be carried out Blue Corrado VR6 - which you put me onto - future project And my family think i am NUTS when it comes to these cars
  22. 1 point
    That’s what I like to see, a bit of ingenuity. Glad they’re in, at least you’re comfortable in the knowledge it’s a one time job and you’ll not be pressing more in there in the near future!
  23. 1 point
    A quick hello from a returning Corrado owner, although it was 25 years ago! Picked a Vr6 up in March, I’m a member on the Corrado club and It was well known on there and I think the previous owner posted on here too. Although already a clean car wanted to take it to the next level so have been refurbing all the underside slowly. Hopefully get it too some shows next year to meet you guys 😁
  24. 1 point
    Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.
  25. 1 point
    Merry Christmas one and all.
  26. 1 point
    i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan
  27. 1 point
    I think it looks just about right for a 20-25mm drop, Keyo. MJA - they were my thoughts on the earlier cars, mine definitely sat lower than the later ones on stock springs. Here's mine on 15" wheels with the B6/H&R green combo:
  28. 1 point
    Get one whilst you can wont be long they will be up to to Mk1 GTI prices - yes private road on my Great uncle Barnicales in the Highlands of Scotland ha.
  29. 1 point
    i have always run Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 in my VR6 - i buy it from Opie Oils online it is expensive but fully synthetic & one of the best out there
  30. 1 point
    Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation? I pu those in mine, very happy with them 👍
  31. 1 point
    No worries glad to be of help 👍 You're only 21 and sorting out electrical issues fair play you're doing a great job there 👏 Si
  32. 1 point
    Not allot to report in respect of look and any real upgrades, more so of trying to sort out the gremlins in the car. Had an issue with the fuel pump after a long drive it would hum for a little while so managed to get a replacement one sorted so problem solved, but have had an idling issue for some time, and a random misfire. So today managed to eliminate what we think it is, quite confident its the ISV, i did replace it as well as the vacuum pipe on the TB, Throttle position sensor turns out the new ISV was faulty too, so trying to source one at the moment. Fitted a genuine coil pack and ht leads to the car and the misfire is for the moment no more. But got the wheels back from RustyRims and has done a cracking job.
  33. 1 point
    However, I think that the pictures show that I try to offer the best possible quality. And this brings us to the primary point of the thread. Many Corrado drivers are looking for centre console for the dashboard. We have already found a good solution for the LHD Corrados. (535 863 241 E) Many british Corrado drivers have asked if it is possible to produce this centre console for RHD Corrados as well. The part number for RHD should be 536 863 241 E. Correct? The basic question with such a complex part is of course how much demand there is. So I would like to ask you to estimate how many parts are needed at all. Greetings Chris
  34. 1 point
    Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425
  35. 1 point
    Be concise and polite explaining the situation, obsolete / unobtainable in your country etc You never know your luck
  36. 1 point
    I looked on the website and for you and could not see one in Spain. Maybe call them and ask for help. https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/
  37. 1 point
    I'd say don't bother testing, just replace it with a new one - that noise it's making in your video is not good.
  38. 1 point
    Regarding the rivnut idea you mentioned, that could work, but if they're too long then you'll have too much of the rivnut protruding up into carpet, unless you have one fitted under front seat, or under the rear seat, but that's only if one had rusted in those area's, if yours has rusted in the rear foot well area, you won't be able to fit one as it'll probably protrude up into the carpet too much ? Unless you fit the rivnut the other way round protruding out facing down to the ground, but then you'll have to modify the white plastic fuel pipe clip, to enable you to screw a bolt up through and into the rivnut. VW I think were doing the original threaded pop rivets or welded floor threaded pins a few years ago, I think they were selling in bags of 100 ? N90 261 401 = pop rivet for exhaust heat shield under car. N90 169 301 = welded floor pin threaded. N90 231 601 = welded floor pin threaded. Or it's to weld in a small bolt from inside of car, so only the small head of bolt is seen from inside, if the carpet or underlay is ever lifted. You'll then have the thread on bolt to screw into your original white plastic fuel clip. Bolt size you'll need that fits the white plastic fuel clip. Hex head 8mm, bolt stem M5, thread pitch 0.8mm. Hope this helps Si
  39. 1 point
    Yeah I've had a similar issue on mine, first was my original fuel pipe clips underneath same as in your photo, were splitting and disintegrating due to being 20+ years old. Not sure if you'll need the white plastic fuel clip but just in case part numbers listed below. I think there's at least 3 listed on Etka. Most Corrado's have option (A) fitted I think, but the VR6 can also have option (C) fitted also. (A) Part number of fuel clip is 1H0 201 449 (clip can hold x4 = 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes) 1988 onwards, fitted to MK2/3/4/5/6 Golfs, Corrado's (B) Part number of fuel clip is 191 201 449 (clip can hold = x2 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes and x2 3/16 brake pipe. 1985 to roughly 1992 mainly for MK2 Golf. (C) Part number 1H0 201 449A (clip can hold up to = X3 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes. From 1992 onwards. Si
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Unlucky mate that tends to mean they are down to the last few so price high- luckily for the VR thay under half that price even though when at the dealers they were £600- . Glad to hear you finally sorted it.
  42. 1 point
    This is the Gamma IV, same as what Keyo has above. This has some nice features, 4x20w, CD changer control, greem dimmable lights, code protection and red anti-theft LED, telephone mute, speed dependent volume control (GALA) when connected to the the blue/white speed sensor signal and can be retrofitted with aux in, bluetooth or iPod adapter using the CD changer inputs - there's even a guy in Germany who retrofits a hardwired aux in cable with 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth 5.0 module for a pretty penny, which means you can retain the CD changer. The cassette flap makes it a lot less attractive to thieves than a fancier unit - and you can even play you Awesome Mix Vol. 1! There is an identical looking radio with blue/red illumination rather than the original green, so be careful to check this when buying.
  43. 1 point
    You definitely want his next shit to be a hedgehog
  44. 1 point
    Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Speaking for the later ones If you’ve ever had different model ones and compared them they are all pretty much the same, the VR6 one just has a little bracket welded on. I just got a later one and welded my old ones extra bracket on. Moving on to the earlier models I’m betting if you get any early one you will be able to make it work for the G60 as they are pressed with a variety of holes not just 2 specific to your model
  48. 1 point
    Yeah I know what you mean. The AUE engine has 4 'teeth' on the cam trigger wheel, which is known as 'quick start'. It means the engine start on any cylinder. The 12V needs to sync to TDC on cyl 1 before it can fire, which is a bit inefficient. All part of EU emissions bollards. Anyway, said trigger is the left one. The 12V ECU won't understand the signal from it. It's more used to a single tooth as seen on the right sprocket. Maybe you can modify the right sprocket to take a 12V magnet disc under the bolt? You will also need to machine a hole into the 24V side casing and space it correctly. About 1mm should do it. The torque starts winding off at 4500rpm ish IIRC. Buy yourself a power probe! Invaluable bit of kit for this sort of thing. I'm not sure a complete Corrado wiring diagram exists anywhere other than the official ELSA books / PDFs, but KipVR on here might know. He did all the wiring himself. Yep, I do. I ran my Audi 3.2 engine with a DTA S80 and one of their DBW boxes. I think the K6 has DBW built in, which is dead handy. I would not waste your time and money on a custom loom. You will not get better quality than the original loom and you know it's reliable because it worked in the donor car for years. All you need to do is cut off the VAG plugs and connect the wires to the Emerald plugs. Then it's just simply a case of finding a suitable switched live and earth and the rest of the wiring is all Corrado, which I would not rip out personally, again, because it's worked for years. Don't fix what isn't broken ;) To figure out what wire went where, I just had the DTA ECU pin wiring diagram in front of me and I end-to-end tested the stock loom to figure out the wires. It's pretty easy, you just follow the colours back to the plug, cut em off, stick the Emerald pins on them and slot them into the Emerald's plug housing. I ran mine with full intake VVT (exhaust not worth it), stock coils, DBW, intake flap, the lot and it ran really well. None of the annoying ARMD torque management maps that VAG use. Just pulled hard everywhere with zero flat spots. Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time and be methodical and you'll be fine. This is the end result. Standalone bolted into the OEM location (using 12V ECU cradle) and OEM 3.2 loom terminated with standalone plugs. It doesn't get any simpler or neater than that ;)
  49. 1 point
    Well once you've done it yourself, you'll know it's done correctly and will be 100% reliable.
  50. 1 point
    As i've said before, yes it's dearer to buy lamda probes from the dealers but if you have a problem with it it guarenteed for two years. i'd rather have that personaly.
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