Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/25/2021 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 1 point
    Got to love 11” discs on the rear,only just go under 15” wheels,(bit of caliper shaving) [emoji1]
  4. 1 point
    YU is coming up blank on that site now for some reason, but that's the stock beige colour as in the photo. I bought my dye from here; https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/leather-dyes-c48/dyes-c91/leather-dye-1l-p144 In the options for checkout, it'll ask for the manufacturer and colour code. They have it on file so are able to mix it without you having to send something for them to match the colour against.
  5. 1 point
    Just to add... on the fuel pump relay, pin 85 connects to pin3 on connector G1 (the trigger signal) and in turn this goes to pin3 on the ECU. This trigger is a negative signal, so to test you need to put your 12v multi meter or your LED testers black probe on pin 3 of connector G1 and the your red probe to the switched live, you should also check ECU pin3 and a reading should only be available when your ignition key is turned. So pin3 at connector G1 or at ECU pin3 should NEVER be at +12
  6. 1 point
    How comes you was rolling around on the floor taking pictures, had you fallen over. 😂😂🤣😂😘😂
  7. 1 point
    Not for me mate, but a very kind gesture 👍
  8. 1 point
    Late body g60 also only has one pump - and uses the early in tank vr 3 bar pierburg pump- same bracket as a vr for fuel filter. Fuel pressure regulator they are obsolete on a g60 though what a shit show. My guess is your electric plug/cabling on fuel pump or sender unit is wrong- the pump you have fitted is the single pump same as a VR or late G60 my car is the same.
  9. 1 point
    As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with
  10. 1 point
    Done now - deleted attachments. For the record, the VR only has the one in tank fuel pump - the 16v and G60 had an in tank lift pump and the main pump mounted underneath the body where the fuel filter is. The ECU relay is #109 and the fuel pump relay #167/67 - look at the side, they will have a diagram showing the wire and terminal connections and how the relay is switched.
  11. 1 point
    If the car runs when the relay is bridged, you defined to look at what switches the relay. And if you say there is a dodgy alarm/ immobiliser wiring then this is where I would be looking, and remove it. Make it all stock original and then you know what you are working with. Good luck 🤞
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Oooo nice pic. We love freshly painted items more than xmas 😂
  14. 1 point
    I’d agree that you’d be better with two fans in operation as when the stage 2 fan engages as that’s the idea, one fan isn’t enough as the temp has gone so the rad sender engages the second stage, going from one fan to the other won’t improve your cooling one bit. It’s a nice little project sorting the fans and wiring out. Something else to bear in mind is the auxiliary water pump, you need to see how he’s wired the fans. If he’s bypassed the main fan controller unit chances are this won’t be running if the fans come on when you turn the engine off. You can tell if the auxiliary pump is working by just turning the ignition on without engaging the starter motor, you should hear the pump run for 30 seconds or so, no buzzing and it is duff.
  15. 1 point
    This is a late genuine fan switch from a good seller - check your pin lay out is that same as in a triangle as early has a horizontal 3 pin lay out. On diagram there is no sealing washer. https://www.deutsche-parts.co.uk/1h0959481b-switch-new-genuine-part.html
  16. 1 point
    V5 has finally arrived, yay 🙂 so now on a push to get it ready for an MOT Not much left to do for the MOT, so started finishing and putting the interior in Alarm and separate immobiliser are fitted, Rear seats and rear cards all in Due to the electric handbrake I dont need the old lever so there is a large hole in the centre consul, well not anymore, all filled and changed to be a recess for inductive phone charging The gear select surround had to be raised to accommodate the DSG selector Had to cover the whole lot so now matches the roof lining and pillars Yes, thats the wifes phone to demo, that why there is a photo of my son on it Needed to make a small flap that lifts up for access to the fixing screw
  17. 1 point
    I have the protective strip decision to make as I collect my car from paint this week - I will be putting some ABT rep side skirts on so in in all likelihood will leave them off. On my VR that is black I left them off as they always look crap on an a black car.
  18. 1 point
    Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.
  19. 1 point
    Congrats on your new Corrado. It looks very clean and is in one of the best colours for a C (in my opinion). Enjoy your new purchase, you won't regret it. Here is a few links to parts suppliers and specialists that might help. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ https://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ https://www.jabbasport.com/
  20. 1 point
    What a collection, love it My first car was a Land Rover. Stripped it down and put it back together with my dad. Sold it to my sister after 3 years and bought a XR3i, 3 years of that and then a G60. The Land Rover was a lot of fun to drive @ 18 but very cold in the depths of winter
  21. 1 point
    Few updates Bought a facia for the centre gauges to make it look better, its 3d printed Glued the LCD mount to the back Filling the face to make it smoother Click on picture below to se the video Video Sprayed the bonnet, needs some flatting now Then fitted this centre visor and today, the screen got fitted Still waiting for the DVLA to update my V5, only been 9 weeks so far, when I called they said it may take another 3 weeks which is a shame as I wanted to take it to VW Whitenoise 😞
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Says sold- but if you want similar I have a set for sale; with or without hump in rear depending on whether your car is vr or 16v
  24. 1 point
    Changed the sensor today, no more abs light. Car feels great no vibrations, Just don't put steering wheel on lock and accelerate
  25. 1 point
    Late bulged bonnet. Late wider arched front wings. Late bumper - body line goes straight and tapers out. Late headlamp again Rear arches are the same early and late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    A few more pictures of the interior current condition....
  27. 1 point
    Hi all. I'm still the owner of the vehicle. I have used It today! It has been exported to Spain as I've moved back in 2019,that is the reason why appears as sorn. The car still in very good condition as I keep It garaged over every winter and only use It when is dry & Sunny. Have a look yo the pictures, un one of them you can see the spanish registration plate. That's how the car looks at the moment. During my ownership I've fully restored the cream leather recaro, fitted original dash dials back, leather steering wheel, genuine bbs RS. On the exterior , Removed rear clear inpro tailights and fitted the original back, front 90mm spoiler , yellow high Beam bulbs covers and vr6 front badge. For the engine... Shrick manifold and remap at Stealth. The car had a couple of mechanical familiares but nothing mayor, thermostat housing crack, alternativa and adicional eléctric coolant pump had a leak. Next winter I'm planning to take engine out, subframe, wishbones, rear acle and get everything sandblasted and powercoated and fit everything back. Hope I'll update all the progress here, M660GGJ still Alive guys! Currently is showing 148k miles on the clock BEST regards Luis
  28. 1 point
    Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009
  29. 1 point
    Thread here. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/does-your-mk4-g60-flywheel-and-vr6-clutch-engage-too-closely-to-to-the-floor.141405/page-3 Everywhere I look says the c number is compatible . Whether you have to change another part for it to be compatible Im not sure.
  30. 1 point
    This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.
  31. 1 point
    The slims aren’t massively better but quieter, it’s also that with them being new they should be more reliable. As you know I have a turbo fitted and as such more heat in the bay and a big fat intercooler infront of the radiator doesn’t help either, the fans were coming on a fair bit. I read up on spal fans and their abilities and went for 12” fans the best slim and a very powerful not so slim. This set up really does draw a lot of air when both are on. My cooling is definitely better than before and hopefully because it’s new it won’t matter how often it comes on. If new OE fans were available off the shelf I might have stuck to stock but I think this set up works well for the heat I’ve got to get rid of in slow moving traffic on a hot day. Having said all that my previous Corrado was a stock set up and I never really had problems with that, over 20k miles but I did change the thermostat, housing and sensors early on and the correct coolant with not much water. But these days the fans are nearly 30 years old so it’s a problem you might have to solve one day anyway. My 12” set up when nearly finished. It does fit but that’s about as big as you can go.
  32. 1 point
    It's a good question and to be honest - it's hard to say! I did the fans at the same time as I did the engine rebuild so I haven't got a direct comparison on a fresh engine. They are the same size as the stock fans (11"); you might just be able to squeeze in 12" if you wanted to go bigger. Currently my engine temp sits at about 100 C in slow moving traffic in this weather which is OK I think. To be honest I thought it would be a little bit better than that what with the engine rebuild, but I don't know what would be considered low and high temps; however, I'm sure you'd get this with a stock fans as well. When I first got the car 10 years ago I am sure it ran fairly cool in traffic, around 90-100 (memory might be playing tricks there though!). I'm sure other people could confirm but 100 doesn't seem wildly low or beyond the realms of the OEM ones, but then who knows, if I had stuck with OEM fans I might be getting temps of 110 or so. I did have issues with engine temps sitting in traffic for long periods in the couple of years before I started the rebuild, to the point where the engine would start to run badly, and be on the verge of cutting out. But that was with a tired old engine so not really a good comparison. I also need to do an engine flush as I think deposits have built up in the rad (the old pipes I took off were coated) which won't help, so the fans might be battling against that. For the moment I am a little bit sceptical about whether it was worth it: It was a bloody hassle to sort (although would be a lot easier now I've done it once and got a guide), it's not really that much lighter (if you were thinking of that - about 1kg less), and doesn't seem to be greatly cooler. Think they might be a little bit quieter.
  33. 1 point
    The fuel pump relay also gets an ignition on signal from the ECU relay - if this is not there, then it won't bridge power to the pump - if you look at the diagram on the side of the relay, it will show you which pin is which, and you could check with a multimeter or test probe connected to a known good earth to see if this voltage is there - just checking, I think this is pint 85, the small one. I don't have the wiring diagrams to hand, but I think it's relay 167 that the signal comes from. Hope this helps - I've had a nightmare troubleshooting this stuff previously, but bridging is good to have the pump running permanently, lets you move the car and proves the pump is working etc., but you need to figure out if the relays are working and if the signals that switch them are there. Best of luck and hope it gets sorted.
  34. 1 point
    Not the best quality but hopefully you can see how they clip on.
  35. 1 point
    This is not based on experience with VR6s. Mine comes from living with generations of Saab engines. If you havent - drastically - increased the rev limit to - say 8000 rpm, or added a supercharger or turbo to boost beyond 1.6 BAR, as long as your rebuild - if you've done one - finely balanced the moving mass of crank, rods and pistons, the basic pulley should be fine. Was there a reason for not refitting the original pully back into place? Did it get destroyed because the nut wouldn't budge? There seem to be a few second hand pulleys on the market - here's one.Corrado 2.9 VR6 Genuine VW Crankshaft Pulley | eBay I cannot see the of a lightened pulley to a road engine. Mk3s seem to have a lighter pulley. Perhaps one of the R32 chappies could chime in here- it seems to me that the R32 pulley fits straight on - looking at the parts spec on paper. Second hand it seems to cost around £60, or £350 ish new.
  36. 1 point
    If its a DASIS you want there is one on Ebay. Radiator, Engine Cooling AKS DASIS | eBay
  37. 1 point
    Thought I'd try a different steering wheel 😉
  38. 1 point
    I saw some of your rust issues on Facebook , mine was very similar, sadly the underseal is now hiding the problems instead of preventing them 🤣 The fuel tank is an awkward beast, especially if it’s got a decent amount in it, definitely easier with 2 bodies
  39. 1 point
    Just seen these at Heritage, got to be a good thing for us, instead of being ripped off in a bidding war
  40. 1 point
    no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I have my Red 92 G60 Mk2 tornado 16v - my first resto - has sat for 2 years now and in need of a refresh Mk2 Pearl Grey 16v - currently rebuilding the engine (trying) and is currently a bare shell with bits of welding to be carried out Blue Corrado VR6 - which you put me onto - future project And my family think i am NUTS when it comes to these cars
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    That’s what I like to see, a bit of ingenuity. Glad they’re in, at least you’re comfortable in the knowledge it’s a one time job and you’ll not be pressing more in there in the near future!
  45. 1 point
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  46. 1 point
    L824 WLD grey Vr6 joined the M1 motorway travelling south 06:25. Looked in good condition, although the heater doesnt work as he had his hoody up 🤣🤣
  47. 1 point
    Not sure buddy though I must be honest I've not really plugged my phone in and looked at the levels, I'll check it out.
  48. 1 point
    T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin black connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming so G1 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3 4 - 5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector) 6 - 7 - 8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6 9 - 10 - T6 brown/1 11 - 12 - T10 orange/9 G2 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - T6 brown/4 10 - 11 - 12 - Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6 earth - T14a/9 well hope this helps people help me haha any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated cheers John
  49. 1 point
    Hi Have a look at my thread for the conversion - Hope it helps http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82498
  50. 1 point
    Well once you've done it yourself, you'll know it's done correctly and will be 100% reliable.
  • Create New...