Leaderboard

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Not SORN No MOT since online records began Same owner since 1998 Not exported Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks immachttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155661035229?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Df316b4877e9f4f779d675eb8bf24e0bc%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D155661035229%26itm%3D155661035229%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042ulate, 58K miles £24,000

Corrado Number 2 Or 4 actually in ownership count. I had seen the car advertised on Facebook but was so disheartened from other cars I had viewed that I discarded it without even looking at it. Later the owner and I were trading some parts and by chance I gave him an incorrect wiring loom for a leather interior so went up to see him to swap over looms. I saw the Corrado and it had virtually none of the issues I had expected and it was a very nice car at a very fair price. 91k, VW and specialist annual servicing from 1994 - 2021, a long term owner between 2005-2021 and all original. The car had sat for over a year out of MOT as the previous owner had picked up abother dream car. I could see the car had some bush and brake line type MOT advisories so I asked for it to be MOTd and if it passed I'd buy it... it did pass.. so I picked it up on Sunday. It does have 2 areas of the rust - see pics - little scab on the wing and a scab in side in the fuel door area. I will get these fixed with new metal before they get worse. The car was resprayed in 2009, for £2350 inc VAT - how times have changed - and came with old style photos to show windows out, back to metal in areas. The paint is excellent in my eyes, just some swirl marks to polish out. No imperfections under my LED garage lights. It had new window and trim rubbers all round back in 2009. I felt confident if the paint had lasted this long and still looked good it must have been a decent job too.

yes i have nice yellow Billet 4s on my VR6 i absolutely love them, far superior to OE brakes & awesome performance i chose HiSpec as they were the only 4 pots i could get which would fit under the 15" speedlines as far as i know there are several reputable workshops that recommend HiSpecs for corrado's - pretty sure ive seen John Mitchell Racing fitting them to customers cars you can give them you full wheel spec & they will confirm if you can run 312's or tell you the max disc size for your setup i found them to be very helpful but i would say to not use their spacers if you need them as the cheap ones they did me were not hubcentric

Broke up for Christmas last Thursday so got some time on my hands. The Corrado assumed the winter prep position again today!

New forum title 🙂 Looks great from here. First Corrado I had was a 2.0 16v in white. Freshly polished in fading light makes all those lines/curves really pop. I said I wouldn’t have another white car, but I’d have that in a breath 👍🏻.

VSR on the left and shrick on the right - I sold a shrick last year and it fetched 1500 and sold behind closed doors - vsr can expect to pay over double then a schrick but rarely come up for sale . Schrick come up at least a few times a year - vsr probs looking at 1 every few years . Last shrick I saw sell was a breaker found one on a sharan vr6 . As mentioned above fb is your best bet - most important thing is to make sure the butterfly flap screws are secure or they could drop off and chew your engine .

If it’s been say for years as you say, it’s probably valve stem seals and such in the head that’s gone all hard. The block may still be good with that mileage and may not need a rebore. Stealth quoted in the region of £1500 for head refurb, chains and guides a couple of years ago. If the block needs work when he opens it up, your car is in the right garage for the work. Get the crank seals done while it’s in bits either way though. It’s well worth asking to speak to Vince and get a quote, he really does know the VR6 and doesn’t waste your money or time.

If you have the K brace you will have to drill though mate . The trimport looks bolt on bolt off . Here it is anyway. https://www.bafmotorsport.co.uk/products/volkswagen-golf-mk2-k-brace?variant=38007283056793&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-27&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZjAbYUnFPLhMC0SmwT_08eJK1ib2D-MiDne2-yM2Ps38PuBa2dXty8aAuriEALw_wcB This video is how they mount fittings etc.

Nice. Just as others have said, easy to live with, easy to work on (all that space in the engine bay is a blessing at times), but be cautious with parts (lights especially) as parts are getting hard. Fun to drive and rarer (by some way) than a Storm. What’s not to like 🙂. I had Estorils on my first Corrado. They had diamond cut faces ( they were an option at the time) and looked great. Having run mine everyday for ten years, I’d recommend changing the wiper arms/blades to aero type. As the standards are hopeless. Lupo GTI or Audi TT is the way to go. You may also benefit from an upgraded headlight loom as well. There’s loads of replacement/upgraded parts available. Lastly, stick the MPG setting on the clocks and see what you can get up to on a long drive. 47.7mpg before you ask 😎.

The current wheels suit the car imo

I wouldn’t advise looking at wiring diagrams you don’t understand just before you go to bed. But I’ve woken up understanding what you were trying to do. Ignore my last post it’s completely wrong. You through me off the scent a bit with the thermo fuse positive. He’s using the switches as ground so where you show a positive in your drawing on thermo fuse should be ground/negative. He’s doing it completely opposite to me. so using his drawing you screenshot, for the aux pump signals you’ll have to use pin 87 off of the 4 pin relays because of the constant ignition live you are using on the aux pump relay trigger, it’s the same but different.

Thread resurrection - where can I get one of these Kurzy looms? Will iit work on a mk2 and mk3 as well?

Congratulations on the purchase - saw this car and went for a good price considering the work carried out and the recaro seats and alloys. Aftermarket Slimline fans - Shaun is the man for them on here- sounds to me likely to be set up wrong in the first place- if you search cooling guide on here its very informative - you can test by bridging all 3 speed settings. The fan control unit is a common failure point as well due to age . Basics first are to bridge the fan switch sensor (one in radiator) plug for settings 1 ignition off- setting 2 bridge same plug but different pins ignition on - settings 3 bridge the the black coolant sensor plug ignition on that is in a row next to the other 2 coolant sensors .

Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.

Congrats on your new Corrado. It looks very clean and is in one of the best colours for a C (in my opinion). Enjoy your new purchase, you won't regret it. Here is a few links to parts suppliers and specialists that might help. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ https://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ https://www.jabbasport.com/

Bit of rust treatment. But I have pulled out some degraded sponge..

Not allot to report in respect of look and any real upgrades, more so of trying to sort out the gremlins in the car. Had an issue with the fuel pump after a long drive it would hum for a little while so managed to get a replacement one sorted so problem solved, but have had an idling issue for some time, and a random misfire. So today managed to eliminate what we think it is, quite confident its the ISV, i did replace it as well as the vacuum pipe on the TB, Throttle position sensor turns out the new ISV was faulty too, so trying to source one at the moment. Fitted a genuine coil pack and ht leads to the car and the misfire is for the moment no more. But got the wheels back from RustyRims and has done a cracking job.

Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425

In between I also experimented with 3D printing. Especially for smaller parts 3D printing should be optimal. Unfortunately I had to realize that the quality is not good enough in my opinion. Therefore I stopped the production of some parts. Especially the clips of the speedometer are complicated to make. There are 3-4 different versions of these clips. It is almost impossible to make a universal version that fits all frames. (535858508 & 535858507) (535 827 769) Most materials used for 3D printing are simply too hard and brittle. Maybe it would be possible to assemble them once, but they would break at the latest when disassembling them.

You definitely want his next shit to be a hedgehog

Ive got an old set of notes from Dennis on the now sadly defunct Canadian corrado club. I remember i had a real issue with the soldering of the relevant wires as they're so thick! Anyway, hope it helps. Just drop me a line if you need any more input. Hasan Wiring Modifications.doc

Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Mrs had a 2010 Tdi for 2.5 years, nothing but servicing and a pair of rear spring broken - got rid of it after the emissions upgrade due to poorer low throttle response and dpf regen too frequent imo. a lad at work also has a Tdi with 130k and had a bill of around 1200 for the last mot for rear suspension springs, bushes and the electronically adjustable Dampers - they warned him of the impending fate of the front for the next mot..... he’s getting rid of it. The mrs is now a Scirocco spotter, “Ohh my old car” every journey - it’s the only car she’s ever taken any notice of... “Saw a lovely purple one today, have you seen the grey one on the new estate”, follow by “When you going to get your shit cars off my patio”...

Indeed. That's what sets this community apart from most others, you don't get looked down on for not having a near mint example. It's about appreciation of model and the pleasure of the drive. Enthusiasm for working on it really does help too! (Though it can wear thin sometimes!) Lol

Make it 58 I need a pair of outer window scrapers

The best thing to do chap is put the part number on ebay or google and see what manufactures come up . I hate Topran because I had an oil cooler fail after 500 miles use and had to flush out the whole system- the internal cooler wept oil into the hoses- cured with a Hella cooler from Murrays direct on ebay . Also I see Heritage sell a JP fuel pump for a VR for £300 and something which is the incorrect bar and also more than a stock VDO pump- I don't take anything for granted they offer or say and have a few run ins and told the sales person wrong you can get it- thats is incorrect your not reading the diagram correctly etc - embarrassing to be honest. P,s the owner of VW International if you have an issue can take it personally they are only a small business.

Trying to ignore this the best I can.

Been tinting rear lights

Part number you posted is not a part number not sure where you got that information from.

Done some digging and found the info and pics - sharing for others: Generally - always use wood or some rubber on top of jacks and axle stands - hockey putt or old suspension top mount. These are the jacking points. Best to not use a trolley jack on the seems. Either use the 2nd pic or some wood behind the seems in the green areas to jack: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95876[/ATTACH] When jacking the the front use the green bolt or around it if also using it to support on axle stands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95879[/ATTACH] Alternatively you can use the rear of the front sub frame, but my jack does't easily reach that far. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95882[/ATTACH]

Check the wiring to the oil pressure switchs ,blue one ? yellow one ? where the wiring runs by the rad fan I got 2 switchs for about £15.00, but my switchs where ok

I'll check in the garage mate, i'm certain i had one or two.. Cheers.

Yep! Thought was a touch steep... Must be rare storm editions tax ;-) ... payment on way, Thank you. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Give them a call on 01273 444000 Think they're open tomorrow? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Many thanks for your kind words - It's only because of the forum and the helpful, kind and supportive people that I've been able to make the progress I have - the number of stupid 'what does this do' type emails I've sent and 'please help' requests has been quite embarrassing but always well recieved. This forum (the people) has genuinely inspired me and made me feel I had the support when I needed to reach out for advice or parts (during what would otherwise been a very difficult time for me personally). I've learnt a fair bit in 7/8 weeks and look forward to continuing with my corrado journey. I have a 1986 xr2 in similarly bad condition that one day I also hope to 'save'..... Thanks again....

Ha ha, no worries. Be glad to help out.

There's only one thing for it - lysholm charger :norty:

if your switch is broken, and doesn't work properly, u can use early style sunroof switch, it is the same as Recaro switch, only difference in front of the switch, but i think u can swap it with front part of Recaro switch,

Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you

Clutch Switch 1 - to ECU Pin 39 2 - ignition live feed ( I used the yellow black wires that go behind the dash) Brake switch: 1 - Permanent live (CE2 Block E pin 4) 2 - Ignition live (same as clutch) 3 - To ECU pin 55 4 - To ECU pin 56 and brake lights (CE2 Block E pin 3 (Red/Yellow))

im pretty sure you guys arnt into mens baps receiving meat either! may as well have a sneaky rasher if you're gonna watch that!

Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.

what year and flavour is it??

Hey, This little project has been in the pipeline for several months now, and a few members on here already know of its existence. However been as though I'm about to take the plunge and rip my Corrado apart I thought I might as well start a thread detailing roughly whats going on. Firstly, some of you probably know my 8V. It was my first Corrado, I bought it in 2008 and spent a happy year owning, maintaining and improving it. I then sold it to a local guy and bought a VR6 which I also owned for a year. However, moving into my own place meant I needed to free up some capital so the VR6 had to go. The day the VR sold I saw my old 8V driving past with a 'for sale' poster in the window. I followed it back to the guys house and eventually struck a deal to buy it back. Result - some capital free'd up and I was still in a Corrado :) Here's the 8V (and the VR for good measure): There's something else though, while running the VR I also had a brief fling with a Mk2 Ibiza TDi (90bhp) which I bought cheaply for the missus to learn to drive in. It was a great car, nice and torquey but still great on fuel (55mpg +) and with plenty of tuning potential. I sold the Ibiza to Matt (Leonard) on here just before buying the 8V back, but even though I'd only owned it for a short amount of time it had planted the seed of an idea in my head, here's a picture: Soooo...where was I...oh yeah, inspiration. I bought the 8V, ran it for a while and in September 2010 my Dad decided that he didn't need the Discovery TDi that he was using as a daily and asked me to help him find a more practical daily driver with a similar internal capacity. 'Passat B4 TDi' sprang into my head as I'm slightly biased towards VW and I knew that they could be picked up cheaply in reasonable condition - so an eBay search ensued and not long afterwards I found a 150k Passat B4 GL TDi a couple of miles down the road, with FSH and 2 owners from new for £400. It was immediately purchased and my Dad was a happy chap. I was also a chap with a head full of ideas, as while researching for Passat information on the internet I'd discovered http://www.tdiclub.com - an American website devoted to the VW TDi range of engines. While having an innocent browse I'd also discovered a member called 'G60ing' who happened to have built two Corrado TDi's over in the states. Reading his build threads over on VWVortex led me to think more and more about the possibility of doing my own TDi conversion. More research, including finding 'Mikkijayne' on this forum and Vortex, led me to discover that the ideal donor vehicle for such a conversion into a Corrado is a Passat B4 TDi - exactly the vehicle I'd bought for my Dad! The B4 is ideal because it is essentially a Corrado in all the bits that matter. The clocks are the same so are literally plug and play, the engine wiring loom is seperate from the headlamp loom (unlike the much more common Mk3 Golf TDi) and a lot of the other bits are a simple swap onto the Corrado, even as far as the fuel filter bracket on the O/S suspension turret. Further research led me to establish that the B4 GL TDi (not CL) was the one to go for, as that spec level featured the MFA as an optional extra, which I really wanted to retain on the Corrado. I established that if I could find a B4 GL TDi donor (with MFA) then pretty much everything would be a straight swap onto my Corrado, as they both run CE2 electrics so everything *should* work. About the same time as all of this was happening I had bought another Corrado VR6 which turned out to be a total rust bucket and potential moneypit. I soon decided that it wasn't worth trying to get back on the road and set out to break it. However, the widetrack running gear wasn't going anywhere as I decided my potential Corrado-8V-TDi would really benefit from being widetrack and therefore 5-stud, allowing a much wider range of wheels and of course the possibility of better, bigger brakes. So the VR6 unfortunately met a slightly sad end but parts of it are on probably 50 other Corrado's so its not all bad! Just after christmas my Dad asked me to help with the cambelt change on his B4, so round I went to help him do that... While working on it he happened to mention that the car was due for an MOT fairly soon and that it would need discs/pads/caliper rebuilds all round as the brakes were constantly seizing on. He knew all about my TDi plans and I asked him whether he'd be willing to let me buy him another B4 (in better condition but not necessarily a GL), so I could have his B4 as a donor vehicle. The long and short of it is that the answer was yes, I found him a really tidy B4 CL TDi in sherry pearl (the same colour as my Corrado!), and I ended up with his old B4 GL sat in my garage as a TDi donor 2 days after I'd finished breaking the VR6 and scrapped the shell :) Here's the MFA clocks with the MPG potential: So...my plan was this: Corrado 8V 1.9 TDi 1Z engine (90bhp - 142lb/ft as standard) Widetrack running gear front and rear Reconditioned suspension components 288mm brakes Mk4 rear calipers There are quite a few things to do apart from just dropping the engine into place. Firstly I have had as many of the widetrack suspension components and 288mm brakes blasted and powdercoated black (thanks Mark and Dave!): I've also been thinking about lots of other things, such as enlarging the fuel filler neck (diesel fuel nozzles are bigger!), fitting a front mounted intercooler and pipework as the Passat one doesn't fit at all, sorting out fuel lines, ensuring that the exhaust will work ok and of course making sure the engine bay and inner bulkhead is suitably soundproofed - I don't want a rough, unrefined car. Then there's the tuning potential. Advice from tdiclub.com pointed me in the direction of the AFN engine, which is a 110bhp lump fitted with a VNT (variable vane) turbo as standard. They were fitted to the Galaxy/Sharan/Passat B5/Audi A4/Seat Toledo and a few other models and they will work quite nicely with the Passat B4 engine loom. However they are £500+ on eBay and I couldn't justify that. So more research established that the AHU (Mk3 Golf, Mk2 Ibiza) engine (90bhp, no VNT) is an AFN in every way apart from the lack of VNT. I looked for AHU's and they fetch about £200 - even better. Then I looked at the difference between the AHU engine and the 1Z as fitted to my donor B4 and found out that there really isn't much difference between them at all - 3lb/ft and a small amount of difference to the internals. I decided that the best thing to do would be to get the conversion running and then worry about tuning later on - however a set of injectors will see me at 120bhp from 90bhp with no other modifications so that'll do to begin with. Couple that with a VNT turbo, PD130 inlet manifold, a remap and a couple of other small modifications and I should see 150-160bhp with approaching 300 lb/ft of torque which I think would be plenty for a daily driver. One final modification that I'm planning on doing while the conversion takes place is an upgrade to the later type ABS system thats fitted to the Passat. Its made by ATE and basically gets rid of the annoying ABS ECU (it's integrated into the pump) and the even more annoying rear brake compensator valve. The ABS sensors are the same as the Corrado and the bracket that mounts it to the bulkhead is even the same - job's a good'un! I'm planning on replacing all of the brake pipes anyway so it makes sense to quickly fit the new ABS system while I'm at it. Wiring should be fairly simple too as the Corrado and Passat are essentially the same in the wiring department. I took the Corrado off the road at the end of February in readiness for the conversion and happened to buy the old Ibiza back from Matt to use as a daily while I carry out the conversion - it all worked out rather well really! I think that's about everything, hopefully you're not bored to death reading about it by now!! This weekend just gone I set about removing the engine from the Passat, which was nice and straightforward: The Passat will be weighed in this Saturday coming (2nd April) and then the Corrado will be coming home as I've got the next week booked off ready to do the majority of the work. I'll also be replacing the heater matrix and a few other bits and bobs while I'm at it. I think thats about it - plenty more to come but its going to be done for Stanford Hall on the 1st May, that is my self enforced deadline and I really don't like missing deadlines ;) Thanks for reading, keep an eye out for more updates Tom