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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well
  7. 1 point
    I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan
  8. 1 point
    Look in the wiki here - there’s a full reset procedure, a bit more involved that’s just disconnecting the battery. Did you check for any vacuum leaks anywhere? Even a small leak can affect idle - you can get a vac gauge to put inline with a t-piece to test. Could also be a faulty MAF reading - do you have access to VCDS and a test lead to check out all the signals?
  9. 1 point
    Hey guys and gals, just want to say thanks to everyone who offered support on my project. It’s been a couple of years in the making, but finally completed everything last year! Literally everything has been replaced! Full respray, rebuilt 20vt, Ko3s turbo, stage 2, wiring loom by Dubnutz, all new belts, new cambelt, auxiliary, water pump, alternator, tensioner, battery, Brembo brakes (+G60 calipers), discs, pads, wheel bearings, abs pump, all wheel sensors, leather seats, new headlining, all sensors, knock, water, oil, air, aem AFR, new intercooler and pipework, hybrid shallow sump + new oil return pipe, full stainless power flow exhaust with track-slag down pipe, all fluids changed, new wheels, tyres, new windscreen and the list goes on!… really looking forward to catching up with likeminded enthusiasts this year and any corrado owners up for meeting up in the East Midlands for a convoy and a cruise feel free to link me up! cheers, Luke
  10. 1 point
    I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids
  11. 1 point
    I’ve got to say that your reply was pure quality. It’s still tickling me now
  12. 1 point
    Just to add... on the fuel pump relay, pin 85 connects to pin3 on connector G1 (the trigger signal) and in turn this goes to pin3 on the ECU. This trigger is a negative signal, so to test you need to put your 12v multi meter or your LED testers black probe on pin 3 of connector G1 and the your red probe to the switched live, you should also check ECU pin3 and a reading should only be available when your ignition key is turned. So pin3 at connector G1 or at ECU pin3 should NEVER be at +12
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Congrats on your new Corrado. It looks very clean and is in one of the best colours for a C (in my opinion). Enjoy your new purchase, you won't regret it. Here is a few links to parts suppliers and specialists that might help. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ https://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ https://www.jabbasport.com/
  15. 1 point
    Hi all. I'm still the owner of the vehicle. I have used It today! It has been exported to Spain as I've moved back in 2019,that is the reason why appears as sorn. The car still in very good condition as I keep It garaged over every winter and only use It when is dry & Sunny. Have a look yo the pictures, un one of them you can see the spanish registration plate. That's how the car looks at the moment. During my ownership I've fully restored the cream leather recaro, fitted original dash dials back, leather steering wheel, genuine bbs RS. On the exterior , Removed rear clear inpro tailights and fitted the original back, front 90mm spoiler , yellow high Beam bulbs covers and vr6 front badge. For the engine... Shrick manifold and remap at Stealth. The car had a couple of mechanical familiares but nothing mayor, thermostat housing crack, alternativa and adicional eléctric coolant pump had a leak. Next winter I'm planning to take engine out, subframe, wishbones, rear acle and get everything sandblasted and powercoated and fit everything back. Hope I'll update all the progress here, M660GGJ still Alive guys! Currently is showing 148k miles on the clock BEST regards Luis
  16. 1 point
    no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Merry Christmas one and all.
  19. 1 point
    i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan
  20. 1 point
    In between I also experimented with 3D printing. Especially for smaller parts 3D printing should be optimal. Unfortunately I had to realize that the quality is not good enough in my opinion. Therefore I stopped the production of some parts. Especially the clips of the speedometer are complicated to make. There are 3-4 different versions of these clips. It is almost impossible to make a universal version that fits all frames. (535858508 & 535858507) (535 827 769) Most materials used for 3D printing are simply too hard and brittle. Maybe it would be possible to assemble them once, but they would break at the latest when disassembling them.
  21. 1 point
    The part number suffix (letter) can change to indicate a later version or substitution. Hella are a good brand - chances are the VW one is made by them or by Bosch, so I wouldn't worry about quality. The relay can go bad over time - a good way to test this is to jumper the connection the relay makes with a short length of wire - this should run your pump directly. It's a fairly common relay and should be easy to source.
  22. 1 point
    Yes I have many parts form a 2.0 A including the head +block + refurbished manifold + O2a gearbox with 16v gearing. upper and lower and many other parts . Engine came out of a Corrado a few weeks back and have a video of it running. I will send you an email with my contact details- based in the Midlands.
  23. 1 point
    This is the Gamma IV, same as what Keyo has above. This has some nice features, 4x20w, CD changer control, greem dimmable lights, code protection and red anti-theft LED, telephone mute, speed dependent volume control (GALA) when connected to the the blue/white speed sensor signal and can be retrofitted with aux in, bluetooth or iPod adapter using the CD changer inputs - there's even a guy in Germany who retrofits a hardwired aux in cable with 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth 5.0 module for a pretty penny, which means you can retain the CD changer. The cassette flap makes it a lot less attractive to thieves than a fancier unit - and you can even play you Awesome Mix Vol. 1! There is an identical looking radio with blue/red illumination rather than the original green, so be careful to check this when buying.
  24. 1 point
    You can buy it as the whole kit but not cheap. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/535845100-windscreen-moulding-trim-set-4-piece.html
  25. 1 point
    Looks like the seller of the car has carried out some great renovation work to the car- pretty sure I can see a new rad in there. Looks like the paint if fresh to - I would say they have spent a lot of money on this car at least 7k plus/
  26. 1 point
    Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    As above, but one is on ebay in Sheffield 254653755202 item number
  28. 1 point
    All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado. Just kidding. Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems. Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure. The main grounds to check or replace are: 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down. Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation. All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.
  29. 1 point
    It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.
  30. 1 point
    Faulty crank sensor gives no spark and no fuel injected (dry plugs after cranking). try a different key?
  31. 1 point
    Yeah they are good lads and down to earth. not like these spoilt kids like Smee with rich parents and them sort of car youtube channels.
  32. 1 point
    Pendine Sands! No wonder they rusted away!
  33. 1 point
    I bought one of the all aluminium ones from eBay for £150 as I was having trouble with leaks from the elbow flange and these come with that flange welded on as part of it. Didn't need to modify the car, only make a couple of brackets to fit it in replacement of the small L shaped brackets. The fan assembly bolted straight on and the bottom locating pins are in the right place. I will post some photos of this Friday if your interested?
  34. 1 point
    Quoted for truth. I think of the almost entirely positive community we had here.. then I look at some of the garbage people post on Facebook and on YouTube comments, etc.. it's like a different world!
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Hi there I have one but would need to check wiring can do so at weekend if you haven't been sorted by then
  37. 1 point
    get yourself on the suppliers thread - Daves16v does a handle repair kit I currently have them on both of the VR handles & will buy some for the valver just in case, sorry for when they go lol
  38. 1 point
    After what feels like forever, I have some progress (touch wood!)... The newly rebuilt charger from Only Charged Dubs arrived yesterday so it was all hands to the pump to get it fitted before the weekend. Got the old one removed (again) and then fitted the new one, fitted the new oil feed and return pipes and carried out an engine flush and oil change with the correct grade of oil 10w40 Semi Synthetic. Primed the new charger as per the instructions, and then let the car idle and got the engine up to temperature to check for leaks etc. After a few adjustments, it was started again and after a few minutes I slowly increased the revs from idle upto 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and then 2200rpm when I heard what can only be described as a scary noise! Almost like a buzzing from the charger area. Checked the oil feed pipe, yep plenty of oil in there. By this time, it was getting late and I'd had enough for one evening, so I packed everything away and thought I'd tackle it again in the morning with after some sleep... Saturday morning and I started the car up and again let it idle up to temperature, another quick check in the daytime for leaks was also done. Increased the revs as I had done the previous day and the noise returned. I phoned OCD and spoke to Matt who said that you can sometimes get noises from the chargers after a rebuild, and to take the car for a drive and see how I got on, which I did. At first the noise remained, and I was ready to admit defeat when after a longer drive at a constant RPM, the noise got quieter! I carried on driving, and the more I was driving the better the noise got! Now I'm not sure if this is normal, or anyone has come across this before (would be good to hear if anyone has), but long story short I have covered 80 miles today with varying loads whilst keeping the RPM under 3000RPM as per the instructions for running in, and the noise has gone completely and I'm just left with the hollow G60 noise (hard to describe) that from what I can work out, is normal. So fingers crossed all is good now, and I can start to enjoy Corrado ownership again! I'm guessing that the oil just needed to get to all the right places within the charger and driving it more obviously got the lubrication to where it needed to go, and perhaps it was a slightly dry seal thats now been lubricated? Who know's I'm not that clued up on G-Laders but as long as that noise stays away and the boost stays within the engine then I'm happy!
  39. 1 point
    It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.
  40. 1 point
    that g60's was a good deal, i love my mk1 golfs and remember seeing mass's up for sale on Facebook, lovely editions, but still nowt like driving the corrado....whats your thoughts mass? p3rks good luck with the hunt
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I would start with the fuel . Change the filter and make sure you have no problems there . Leave it running or drive locally . Take a tool kit with you . When it cuts out , remove the fuel lines to check fuel is present . Be careful ,if there is fuel it will be under pressure , so protect your eyes . If all is ok , you may need to check the spray pattern in the injectors . This is obviously a bit more complicated . Next . Everything electrical from the ECU , down the the fueling and ignition system needs to be checked . I would unplug one at a time , spray them with electrical contact cleaner and plug back in , checking for corrosion and any faulty wires . I would also have a look at your ignition switch , alarm / immobiliser . Also when it cuts out , remove a lead and connect a spark plug and lay it on the block , you will then see if you have a spark on cut out . All you need for a car to run is a spark and fuel . So if both are present, it may point to a faulty immobiliser . All the best , hope this helps . Rob
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Yeah I know what you mean. The AUE engine has 4 'teeth' on the cam trigger wheel, which is known as 'quick start'. It means the engine start on any cylinder. The 12V needs to sync to TDC on cyl 1 before it can fire, which is a bit inefficient. All part of EU emissions bollards. Anyway, said trigger is the left one. The 12V ECU won't understand the signal from it. It's more used to a single tooth as seen on the right sprocket. Maybe you can modify the right sprocket to take a 12V magnet disc under the bolt? You will also need to machine a hole into the 24V side casing and space it correctly. About 1mm should do it. The torque starts winding off at 4500rpm ish IIRC. Buy yourself a power probe! Invaluable bit of kit for this sort of thing. I'm not sure a complete Corrado wiring diagram exists anywhere other than the official ELSA books / PDFs, but KipVR on here might know. He did all the wiring himself. Yep, I do. I ran my Audi 3.2 engine with a DTA S80 and one of their DBW boxes. I think the K6 has DBW built in, which is dead handy. I would not waste your time and money on a custom loom. You will not get better quality than the original loom and you know it's reliable because it worked in the donor car for years. All you need to do is cut off the VAG plugs and connect the wires to the Emerald plugs. Then it's just simply a case of finding a suitable switched live and earth and the rest of the wiring is all Corrado, which I would not rip out personally, again, because it's worked for years. Don't fix what isn't broken ;) To figure out what wire went where, I just had the DTA ECU pin wiring diagram in front of me and I end-to-end tested the stock loom to figure out the wires. It's pretty easy, you just follow the colours back to the plug, cut em off, stick the Emerald pins on them and slot them into the Emerald's plug housing. I ran mine with full intake VVT (exhaust not worth it), stock coils, DBW, intake flap, the lot and it ran really well. None of the annoying ARMD torque management maps that VAG use. Just pulled hard everywhere with zero flat spots. Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time and be methodical and you'll be fine. This is the end result. Standalone bolted into the OEM location (using 12V ECU cradle) and OEM 3.2 loom terminated with standalone plugs. It doesn't get any simpler or neater than that ;)
  45. 1 point
    Yes, I thought you wanted the base ! That's why I posted the above link. You will find most aerial's will fit
  46. 1 point
    I'm still looking for a set. If the group buy comes off, particularly if it happens through Stealth, then that makes a lot of sense to me.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Appreciated guys! Was one of the things i wasnt 100% on first doing the chains but this will be my second time doing a set so should be no bother now and have the cam shaft locking tool for it now. Not too bad once you actually get to them to fit the new ones! Havent got a thread on DW sadly but will happily post up the product etc i use. Will be giving it a full going over again next weekend hopefully once iv done the messy stuff and will do a sort of right up for that as should be spending a good while on it. New header tank with cap was £27 im sure bud but remember all the stuff i buys at trade price,but shouldnt be much more. Did it in my last vr6,just makes the bay that little bit cleaner. Will keep it updated. Shall have the camera on the go tomorrow.
  50. 1 point
    Yes there is a small plastic 10mm nut to undo which is easy enough to get to, I found that sliding the power steering reservoir out of the way helped things. You got another VR now then Adam?
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