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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Got to love 11” discs on the rear,only just go under 15” wheels,(bit of caliper shaving) [emoji1]
  7. 1 point
    I’d agree that you’d be better with two fans in operation as when the stage 2 fan engages as that’s the idea, one fan isn’t enough as the temp has gone so the rad sender engages the second stage, going from one fan to the other won’t improve your cooling one bit. It’s a nice little project sorting the fans and wiring out. Something else to bear in mind is the auxiliary water pump, you need to see how he’s wired the fans. If he’s bypassed the main fan controller unit chances are this won’t be running if the fans come on when you turn the engine off. You can tell if the auxiliary pump is working by just turning the ignition on without engaging the starter motor, you should hear the pump run for 30 seconds or so, no buzzing and it is duff.
  8. 1 point
    Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Changed the sensor today, no more abs light. Car feels great no vibrations, Just don't put steering wheel on lock and accelerate
  11. 1 point
    The fan controller controls 3 speeds. 1 & 2 from the rad switch and 3rd speed from the black sender in the thermostat housing. The fan control unit sends power to one of the three cables from the signal it gets. That’s why you can join the three wires together near the fan plug without getting current bleed going somewhere else that connects to the new fans. I use the two signals from the rad switch and the black switch unplugged so I can’t go over temp and bring that signal in. It would have easier and less complicated to just use the rad switch for just the first two signals direct from the fan switch like the Phenix fan set up. mine don’t change speed. the slim fan come on a 95 Celsius and both come on at 105 Celsius. that shroud seem basic for the money and the fans aren’t the best either. My bent plate cost £40 I think and I cut it out with a jigsaw. Look on the Spal fan website to determine fans and flow rates. it’s the fans, relays and wiring where the money is.
  12. 1 point
    This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.
  13. 1 point
    I use AMOS who is unpopular on here but he always has about 8 cars and years of supplies in his garage. Last time I went he had a nugget with a usa tailgate and third brake light. I would say he has the most parts in the UK- although I wouldn't take my car to be worked there as only let Vince work on my car.
  14. 1 point
    This is why deals should be done in plain sight on the forum, then go to PMs for payment and addresses etc
  15. 1 point
    There is a wee yellow arrow top right that shows the earth block that’s hidden behind the dash 👍
  16. 1 point
    Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425
  17. 1 point
    This was followed step by step by larger plastic parts. Unfortunately of course primarily LHD parts. For example: Number plate holder in European or American design 535813990 535813989. Frame for additional displays for early types 535 858 203. Air intakes as replacement for defective fog lights. Door sill plates 535 853 813 A.
  18. 1 point
    I'd say don't bother testing, just replace it with a new one - that noise it's making in your video is not good.
  19. 1 point
    Looks like the seller of the car has carried out some great renovation work to the car- pretty sure I can see a new rad in there. Looks like the paint if fresh to - I would say they have spent a lot of money on this car at least 7k plus/
  20. 1 point
    So I got ahold of BBM and they basically told me the same thing. I am also running that 4bar pressure regulator and all supporting mods for the stage upgrade. I just wanted to be sure that I didn't need to get a new cam for this chip or a new chip for the cam haha
  21. 1 point
    I'm sure there's another thread on this regarding the handbrake cable lengths. From memory I think what I've listed below is correct ? Handbrake cable (up to VIN/Chassis 50-S-000361) Part number 1H0 609 721A 1988 to 1991/92 1605mm cable length Handbrake cable (after VIN/Chassis 50-S-000362) Part number 1H0 609 721E 1991/92 to 1995 1613mm cable length Hope this helps Si
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    New purchase for the corrado, love these exhausts
  24. 1 point
    Well the new retro line they cost silly money like 4 K a set as I spoke to the UK dealer in Recaro. There is a seller on ebay from Poland who will supply and trim a set of LS that look exactly the same and reckons he can sort out the seat bases none electric - at the end of it wont be far off a set of stock Recaro seats and will be none electric- although they will be brand new and don't have to worry about the electrics failing. Also can supply heating for not much extra cost. Here is the guy in Poland and if you look through the pictures the orange ones are just like the recaro . Any colour or material. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECARO-LS-LSb-seats-the-Pair-Leather/264529584394?hash=item3d9731210a:g:kq8AAOSwSK9dyWxf
  25. 1 point
    Finally back in the car. Secured and sealed up. A difficult part was lining it up against the heater directional box. It was catching the hot to cold flap, which I turned to hard!!! So lesson to all, take your time and you won't have to reset the dash controls. Since working it out the Hot to Cold flap now turns incredibly smoothly. There is however no way of securing the two units together, so I used a tyrap to hold it up and in line, some sticky sponge to seal and close the gap, then gaffa tape all around. A very efficient system now. Fingers crossed that I can get it pressure tested soon and that it won't leak....... Be interesting to see if this converted mk4 golf evaporator does the job, especially after all this time and money.
  26. 1 point
    Santa came early! (Or late!!) Pretty pleased with the powder coating, for £120 it seems like a bargain! There is some pitting on the rear axle & tank straps but that obviously couldn't be helped, they're not new after all. The subframe and smaller bits look brand new though, really pleased with how they've come out. Most of the bolts have been picked up from VW (the ones that were available) or delivered from Heritage or further afield - had to get some from Germany which is as mental as the delivery cost! Still a couple to come but almost all there now. Brand new genuine grille as well so I now have all parts to de-Storm it. Don't think I will now though, just because I don't want to damage the paint removing badges! New sump as well cos mines looking a little rough. Hopefully finish the underseal/painting this weekend so I'll get some pics before reassembly begins!
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Hi everyone, the Corrado has now been sold. Thanks everyone for the advice, tips and enquiries during the process !
  29. 1 point
    They do crop up every now and again. You're looking at around £750-850 for a full leather interior inc door cards. I too was looking for a leather interior and a couple have come up over the last year to give you an idea. I've decided against leather though as I don't have air-conditioning and used to own a car with leather without air-con and it was a sticky sweat fest in summer! Instead, and sharing for options yourself, I thought I'd get my cloth recovered with some plaid/tartan trim or something period correct in the centres and go leather on the side bolsters. Other alternatives can be to fit Audi TT fron seats (c £150) but some fabrication is needed. Or source some recaro's from another car (c £200-300) and trim and fabricate a base. Or source some real Corrado recaro's but they are £1500-2000 which is just plain redicilous given the value of the Corrado compared to other modern classics these other recoro's come out of.
  30. 1 point
    I had a similar problem when I got my kr.did a oil pressure test and it was good . I just replaced both pressure switches and the problem disappeared. Not sure if your part numbers are correct but mine had a white switch and a blue/brown switch also.
  31. 1 point
    My mechanic remarked my car felt a little lumpy when warm after he gave it a once over last week (I’ve only had it for a few weeks and hadn’t really noticed). We did spot the PCV pipe was split (Part No: 7M0 128 101) and I’ve ordered a replacement but yet to receive and fit. This is our first line of investigation as the car is showing no fault codes. An air leak would give symptoms of rough running though so maybe you have something similar. I find my car can be a little snatchy on the throttle – i.e when coming off or on of the throttle while cruising it doesn’t feel smooth but then at other times it’s fine. I don’t get exactly the same symptoms as yours but thought it was similar enough to post my experiences so far.
  32. 1 point
    Give them a call on 01273 444000 Think they're open tomorrow? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    I'm very new to the scene as just been able to get to the age where I can insure my valver for a sorta reasonable price, I've paid my subscription to the CCGB and like the members that we have, also on the Corrado forum too. I'm sad to see this situation, as I'd love to get going to some meets and see some cool cars and being able to show my car too (as you lot are the only ones that will appreciate it lol). Problem is as I suppose it is with most members is getting the cars to shows, being the drive or the fact that the car has broke again. I'm in that boat unfortunately, lots of work to do and recovering from a motorbike accident doesn't help either. I like the CCGB site but I do spend most of my time on here, but I do find I struggle to interpret the calendar on the CCGB website and how I'm able to sign up to events (probably it's very simple, just me being an idiot). And again, I'm from Oxford ways, and some shows will be a struggle to get too but you can't really seem to help that as we have members all over the place. And Jim as for the magazine I didn't even know you had one! I'd be very interested to have a read and also add some content to help out. Hopefully once I'm a bit more mobile I'd like to do my car up and I'm even going down the air ride route so some members might be interested.
  34. 1 point
    It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.
  35. 1 point
    Well, after seeing the wheeler dealers episode i might buy the sub £2k corrados, do a bit of soldering and change an oil cooler and sell them on for £4k :lol:
  36. 1 point
    Corrado looks nice, that sportline looked a beaut too. I used to have a red sportline a few years ago.
  37. 1 point
    T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin black connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming so G1 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3 4 - 5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector) 6 - 7 - 8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6 9 - 10 - T6 brown/1 11 - 12 - T10 orange/9 G2 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - T6 brown/4 10 - 11 - 12 - Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6 earth - T14a/9 well hope this helps people help me haha any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated cheers John
  38. 1 point
    Hi Have a look at my thread for the conversion - Hope it helps http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82498
  39. 1 point
    Optimum no rinse Mic. Lots of pro detailers use it or another no rinse prooduct in the height of summer, or when a hosepipe ban is in force. Have a read up on it. I cant say Ive ever used it tbh, but it does get rave reviews.
  40. 1 point
    Clutch Switch 1 - to ECU Pin 39 2 - ignition live feed ( I used the yellow black wires that go behind the dash) Brake switch: 1 - Permanent live (CE2 Block E pin 4) 2 - Ignition live (same as clutch) 3 - To ECU pin 55 4 - To ECU pin 56 and brake lights (CE2 Block E pin 3 (Red/Yellow))
  41. 1 point
    thats pants, great you got it back possibly soon.
  42. 1 point
    Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.
  43. 1 point
    Because it makes me smile when driving back roads or up the west coast. Because it's easy to maintain Because it's been very reliable Because it's the best value for money out there in my opinion when you take everything into account Because it's different Because it has a V6 Because parts are cheap (compared to an Audi S4 for example!) I could go on :)
  44. 1 point
    if you buy one of the uprated looms from on here (KUR2Y) you dont have to "hack" your loom ! with the extreme bulbs + loom = unbelievable !!
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Already well on the case with the fuel filler modification, think I mentioned it in the first post when I outlined the plans. The 1Z doesn't have an in-tank fuel pump at all, the engine driven injector pump acts as the lift pump on its own but I'm going to retain the 8V in-tank pump anyway. I've devised a modification to the fuel lines to allow any excess fuel to return to the tank before it reaches the injector pump (basically a stepped 'H' fitting in the feed and return lines). I'll describe it better once I've built it :) Supercharged - I'd be really interested in seeing some pictures of your TDi if at all possible? Cheers Tom
  47. 1 point
    they look nice ive been thinking about doing a simler thing with a 2lt 8v vauxhall engine i blew 2 holes in the crank case :norty: one less vauxhall on the road :)
  48. 1 point
    Is there not a plastic tab held down by a a plastic nut you need to do undo first? before lifting up the res. Located down the side of the power steering bottle I think
  49. 1 point
    OK, pretty dull this, but if anyone replaces their windscreen and the old screen catches and breaks the headlining trim strip, you won't be able to get another from the dealers. VW part code: 535 867 551 (colour 1DH) Internal headlining plastic trim strip, grey. Like I said, dull.
  50. 1 point
    I finally bought a pair of new wing mirror glasses at the weekend, whilst fitting them I noticed neither mirror would adjust. It has always been a bit hit and miss, one day they work then they don't. Eventualy one side started to work, but nothing from the other. I thought it was the adjustment mechanism, but it was not. After a lot of sodding around with the mirror mechanisms with no improvement I took the switch out of the drivers door, and took it apart. Mines a late car but I would imagine the same could easily apply to early ones too. Basically there is a small printed circuit board which the moving contacts of the switch have to connect to. The copper on the board was very dirty with what looked like burnt on grease all over it. Using brasso I polished the contacts up to a bright shiny finish. I reassembled the switch and both mirrors now work perfectly! This took half an hour to do, and I highly recommend giving it a go if your mirrors do not adjust.
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