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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    AFAIK the valve is there to to stop the heater matrix rupturing if there is a cooling issue or overheating, a safety/CYA thing as front passengers would get scalded. If the cooling system is up to scratch and maintaining temperatures within tolerances it won't be strictly necessary. The gurgling sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, so the best way is to make sure that it is bled out when refilling - I tend to refill first, leave the reservoir cap off and start the engine and let it warm up, squeezing the top and bottom rad hoses every once in a while - when the stat opens it will take a big gulp, so you'll need to top up quickly, check the hoses again, then put the cap on, go for a drive, let it settle and top up as needed to get the correct level. The coolant is pressurised when hot, so be very careful when opening the cap - let it sit for a while.
  7. 1 point
    Thread here. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/does-your-mk4-g60-flywheel-and-vr6-clutch-engage-too-closely-to-to-the-floor.141405/page-3 Everywhere I look says the c number is compatible . Whether you have to change another part for it to be compatible Im not sure.
  8. 1 point
    Not the best quality but hopefully you can see how they clip on.
  9. 1 point
    I use AMOS who is unpopular on here but he always has about 8 cars and years of supplies in his garage. Last time I went he had a nugget with a usa tailgate and third brake light. I would say he has the most parts in the UK- although I wouldn't take my car to be worked there as only let Vince work on my car.
  10. 1 point
    This was my method, tooling was supplied by Messrs Heath & Robinson! Getting the first side done took a couple of hours as I was trying every piece of packing for size to pull it in straight. Second one took a few minutes.
  11. 1 point
    Filling with petrol is always good when troubleshooting a non-start scenario 😉
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    You definitely want his next shit to be a hedgehog
  14. 1 point
    Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!
  15. 1 point
    Corrado VR6 Storm in Mystic Blue. Car was bought from an enthusiast, I found it after 2 years of searching. To go over the car itself : Standard parts : Standard Storm parts, Mystic Blue paint, Black Leather interior, Storm detailing, BBS Solitaire wheels, Steel kickplates.... ALSO and not part of the standard extra's the dealer option Air Con, which is still in good working order. Done before I bought it : AMD work done within 2 years of it being bought, still produces 10-15hp more than standard, checked with Stealth rolling road a few years back. Silicon hoses where needed. Schrick Inlet manifold. Koni Suspension. Alpine head unit. Performance HT leads. Corrado Storm mats. And what I have added : Headlamp loom upgrade. Front and rear brake upgrade - front to 288mm and rear to MK4. Heater Control illumination. SWG Scuttle panel. Steering wheel refurbished. Replaced alarm with Cat 1 as previous alarm was malfunctioning. Chains and clutch done some 40k miles previous. Gearbox rebuild at approx 140k miles. Bare metal respray and new windscreen around 155k miles. New Bosch Battery. The car has a full service history having covered some 177,358 miles, I have 2 large binders full of history. Rear Spoiler works without a problem- both manual and automatically, Sunroof works sliding and tilt, although internal panel does not go up with tilt. Wing Mirrors work without a problem. Car drives and accelerates without issue. Leather interior in good condition considering age. Only draw backs are the heater that does not work on '2' which is a copper connection issue, a new heater control module can be sourced from German Heritage. Internal sunroof panel does not lift on tilt. Repaired rip in bottom rear of front passenger seat which I inherited from previous owner, never caused an issue, size of about 50p. MOT'd until April 2021. I have some extra parts as well for this that could be offered to the purchaser at a greatly reduced price. It breaks my heart to sell this but I am in a position that it needs to go, I will NOT accept silly money and can hang onto it as long as is necessary to get the right price. I think this is a very rare beast, not just because its the best Storm colour combination - Mystic Blue with Black Leather but also because of the Schrick manifold and the Air Con. Don't miss out... Offers over £7250. NO offers from outside UK will be accepted, all monies paid whether cash/cheque/bankers draft/Paypal will need to be processed by my Bank before the car is released. Car is advertised elsewhere so I reserve the right to withdraw this advert at any time. Buyer to arrange collection upon payment clearance.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Ive got an old set of notes from Dennis on the now sadly defunct Canadian corrado club. I remember i had a real issue with the soldering of the relevant wires as they're so thick! Anyway, hope it helps. Just drop me a line if you need any more input. Hasan Wiring Modifications.doc
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Done some digging and found the info and pics - sharing for others: Generally - always use wood or some rubber on top of jacks and axle stands - hockey putt or old suspension top mount. These are the jacking points. Best to not use a trolley jack on the seems. Either use the 2nd pic or some wood behind the seems in the green areas to jack: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95876[/ATTACH] When jacking the the front use the green bolt or around it if also using it to support on axle stands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95879[/ATTACH] Alternatively you can use the rear of the front sub frame, but my jack does't easily reach that far. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95882[/ATTACH]
  22. 1 point
    I had a similar problem when I got my kr.did a oil pressure test and it was good . I just replaced both pressure switches and the problem disappeared. Not sure if your part numbers are correct but mine had a white switch and a blue/brown switch also.
  23. 1 point
    What paint ? Looks good,I may have to copy you [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    Quoted for truth. I think of the almost entirely positive community we had here.. then I look at some of the garbage people post on Facebook and on YouTube comments, etc.. it's like a different world!
  25. 1 point
    All, Just a word of warning to avoid this seller on eBay. I purchased a "Corrado" steering rack from them and when it arrived, turned out to be for a MK3 Golf. They are insisting it is the same but there are differences between them as many people know who are knowledgeable on Corrados. They are only offering to refund it if I pay both sets of postage and a 20% re-stocking fee, so I would get about £20 back from the £50 I spent on it! I am in touch with trading standard and am seeking legal advice through work. Someone pointed out that it is the same company who failed to return a gents Schrick off the forum : http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=76610 I don’t like naming and shaming but feel that it is appropriate in this instance as they seem a fairly large supplier of Corrado used parts. Thanks, Andy
  26. 1 point
    Have a late style front indicator brand new in box surplus to requirements. £40 posted or £35 collect at VW Festival Harewood 😉 Thanks. Kip Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    Anytime chris,I will pop and see you in the summer at some point...maybe in my Rallye if I can pull my finger out and finish it.
  28. 1 point
    You're making nice progress with this. I had both my grille badges black on my vr. Thought it looked good.
  29. 1 point
    Well, after seeing the wheeler dealers episode i might buy the sub £2k corrados, do a bit of soldering and change an oil cooler and sell them on for £4k :lol:
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    To put it simply: do you go to concerts and face away from the stage? Do away with the rear fills and focus on the best speakers and front stage your pockets can justify. Those rears will not be missed with a proper front stage setup.
  32. 1 point
    Your assumption is correct, I am on the East coast; born and raised in Bronx, NY but currently reside in Manassas, VA. It would appear as if we have a similar taste in vehicles; my main project is a Mk1 Scirocco S1, I was hoping to have her done by August but life throws lemons at you sometimes.. I have learned to make lemonaid with them. I know all about the Chevy vs. Ford crap. Personally I admire any well made machine. In terms of recommendation, I still stand with the 2.8 Vr6. You can do a mild and cheap build, the sound and performance will keep you satisfied until you're ready for more. When the time comes, you can swap in a larger 3.6l Vr6, and the rest is yours. You can also throw guru bucks at it and convert it to AWD, I know one day I may consider that swap. Have you heard of the Lugtronic Stand alone engine management system? That is the last big purchase I need to make for my build. As far as the Turbo vs. SC goes; both make great power and are good for there purposes. If you are after the numbers, I recommend Turbo, if you are after drivibility, I recommend a SC. Depend on where you go, who you talk to, and what you read, you can find supporting arguments for both sides. A lot of people go after Turbos to get that Cherp sound or the sound of the dwindling down after hard acceleration but both hurt performance and, more importantly, can damage your turbo. I can speak on both forms of FI and N/A motors very well and honestly recommend both, based on build goals; just as long as they are being used appropriately. You seem to be on the right track and I don't doubt, for a second, you will be able to tackle this with ease. Researching is your best tool, use and abuse that sucker!
  33. 1 point
    Hello there, on some vehicles once the battery is disconnected you can some times lose the basic ECU settings, if the battery has been disconnected for 20 to 30 mins or more, but this normally relates to vehicles that have the full multi point fuel injection system, where the injectors are linked directly in to the ECU as well as most of the other engine sensors, on these such vehicles you'd have to use a diagnostic scanner to remove any fault codes from the ECU memory chip, and drive the car for 30 to 40 mins so the ECU can collect fresh data from all engine sensors, and log all basic related settings back in it's memory. On some of the new vehicles this can happen if the battery is disconnected for long periods. But on your Corrado 2.0 16v as it's got the old style fuel metering head like on the later MK1 Golfs and MK2 Golf GTI, it's basically mechanical injection as it has the fuel distributor, fuel governor and air flow sensor all in the one metering head unit, so this set up doesn't really lose it's basic ECU settings unlike the more advanced ECU system like on most modern cars including the VR6 but as you've said it only took 5 mins to replace the battery you should be ok, from what you've said it does sound like one of the circuits has had a power surge or something for a split second, which can happen when you replace a battery. You should always remove the black negative (EARTH) lead first, and it should always be the last lead to fit back to the battery terminal. The red live (POWER) lead is always the second one to remove from the battery, and should be the first one to fit back to battery terminal before the earth lead. If you don't fit and remove the battery terminal leads as above then you can course a small power surge, or in some cases it can course a short, it can still happen if you do use the correct procedure but it's very rare. . Plus you've said that you have to apply full throttle to start your Corrado up from stone cold, this again is a classic symptom of over fueling. Full throttle down to assist starting is a symptom of a lack of fuel / too much fuel / very weak spark / very low compression. But like I say in your case as your Corrado starts fine when it's warm / hot, and is difficult to start from cold it'll be too much fuel meaning the fuel to air ratio, will be out so the engine will stall when cold or idle very lumpy until it's up to temp. It does sound as though the Coolant temp switch has died or is on the weak side, this can affect the car starting from cold or even when the engine is warm, it really depends on how the coolant temp switch has burnt out. They are normally white or blue in colour and have a 2 pin plug on the Corrado 2.0 16v The other thing it could be is the Lambda sensor, this detects any un-burnt fuel deposits with in exhaust waste fumes, but normally you'll have erratic idling and can have highish fuel economy complete with engine being under powered slightly, plus you might hear the odd popping sound from the exhaust tail pipe due to the extra fuel being used. These normally on the 2.0 16v have a black 4 pin plug with a separate earth wire. Most OEM Lambda's are Bosch ones, cost is around £58.00 to £78.00 off Ebay Some times the cold start injector can stick open which floods the cylinders with fuel, again coursing bad cold starting. This is normally linked into the coolant temp switch circuit, so once the engine warms up slightly the coolant temp switch, should then tell the ECU to turn off the cold start program. Secondhand these are around £25.00 to £38.00 off Ebay, and new from VW Main Dealer they could be close to £100.00 if not more, that's if they still stock them, if they don't then try VW Heritage. This is the part number for the 1.8 16v cold start valve ( 026 906 171A ) it might even be the same for the 2.0 16v. When testing the cold start valve / injector you can remove the 2 pin connector plug and see if it effects it's running on start up, or you can remove the cold start valve from out of the inlet manifold and see if it is switching off correctly, but if you do remove the cold start valve it could rip / damage the gasket. You can do a similar thing as above and remove the connector plug off the Lambda sensor or coolant temp switch, again just to see if it makes a difference or not to the engines cold start up. This is what some of the Forum members have done just to rule out each possible error from some of the sensors in question, that relate to this cold start up problem. When starting your Corrado 2.0 16v from cold it'll idle at around 1150 RPM for 3 to 5 mins in really cold winter weather, and around 1 to 2 mins in mild weather and even less in the summer weather. Once the cold start program has switched off, your engine should then idle at 850 RPM. I've got a spare coolant temp switch if you want it, it still works and has done around 75,000 miles. The part number is ( V026 906 161 ) this is a 2 pin and has a 10mm diameter thread with 1mm thread pitch complete with washer. I don't want any money for it you can have it F O C, if you want it and if that is the problem with your current one. Basically the same as this one on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261233673855?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D261233673855%26_rdc%3D1 Hope this helps. Si
  34. 1 point
    I would guess you'll need a new ignition barrel, ignition switch and possibly a new steering cowl. There are various sources for a new barrel and switch, there's a few ebay dealers that do them, or you could try somewhere like TPS if not your local VW dealer themselves... The steering cowls are more than likely obsolete now (try TPS though to see) so either a breaker on here or an ebay search is your best bet. HTH Mark
  35. 1 point
    Got my pair today, very nice model and panels seem metal not plastic, one for the desk the other to keep for spares!
  36. 1 point
    Yes, I thought you wanted the base ! That's why I posted the above link. You will find most aerial's will fit
  37. 1 point
    I was looking around for info and stumbled across this, it makes for an interesting read if you like the VW 24V V6 engines :-) http://www.scribd.com/doc/103127521/7/Crankcase-breather-system
  38. 1 point
    If it's a brand new one in the standard black plastic (ABS) then you don't need to prime it if you use a decent spraypaint designed to go over plastic. What you will need to do is wash off the release agent that helps it out of the mould at the factory, which is often not removed because it makes it look shinier ;) Warm water and Fairy liquid will do fine, I usually stick a small amount of meths in the bucket as well for the degreasing effect but check a test patch before you melt the plastic. Wash it all over with a soft cloth and let it thoroughly air-dry. Spraying it is best done on a still, warm day ideally just after rain so there's less dust/pollen in the air. The trick is to use many extremely thin coats - so thin that the first few will be barely visible as a coloured 'haze' over the plastic. The can will have instructions so follow them but on the last lot of trim I sprayed it was touch-dry in 15 minutes so I put another coat on every 20. It took 4-5 thin coats to get good even coverage. Don't spray too much in one place, in too long bursts or get carried away with how thick a coat you can get away with as it's a guaranteed recipe for thick, sagging paint with runs in it. Same as the above if you want to put clearcoat over it - I like the matte finish so rarely bother but it will blend into your bodywork better if you do. White primer is better for bright colours, grey is better for dark colours, and make sure you don't get high-build primer unless you really enjoy sanding. Stone
  39. 1 point
    Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.
  40. 1 point
    I'm still looking for a set. If the group buy comes off, particularly if it happens through Stealth, then that makes a lot of sense to me.
  41. 1 point
    I know mate, I'm not going to put myself out for 'maybes'. People can do basic maths and figure I dunno, perhaps a 10% discount on 10 sets, 15% on 20 sets and so on. So 10% off stands you at $400, x 1.23 for UK duty and VAT = £302. Shipping from the US and UK mainland on top. So if people decide ~ £350ish all in is going to be too much, they can duck out. Perhaps it's just a sign of the times. We sold over a 100 sets over two GBs last time! Anyway, I have asked Bill for pricing on 10, 20, 30 sets etc. And yep, I was also thinking it could be done through Stealth as they have the buying power and accounts already in place and can also include a mapping deal as you say!
  42. 1 point
    a K&N type panel filter is all you need, the standard airbox is good for 180+ bhp, chopping holes in the airbox does nothing to improve the airflow and will just affect mpg on warm up and sap power on hot days. Removing the 'snorkel' tube at the front seems to help a little at very high revs, but otherwise I'd leave well alone, tempting though it may be to experiment :)
  43. 1 point
    I have just put a deposit down on a classic green storm! It needs a few bits doing to it cosmeticaly but nothing serious and everything works after 140,000 miles! It has also had alot of money spent on it recently at tsr perfomance the vw specialist. I cant wait to get it back home and start giving it some tlc! Anyway here are some pics
  44. 1 point
    Appreciated guys! Was one of the things i wasnt 100% on first doing the chains but this will be my second time doing a set so should be no bother now and have the cam shaft locking tool for it now. Not too bad once you actually get to them to fit the new ones! Havent got a thread on DW sadly but will happily post up the product etc i use. Will be giving it a full going over again next weekend hopefully once iv done the messy stuff and will do a sort of right up for that as should be spending a good while on it. New header tank with cap was £27 im sure bud but remember all the stuff i buys at trade price,but shouldnt be much more. Did it in my last vr6,just makes the bay that little bit cleaner. Will keep it updated. Shall have the camera on the go tomorrow.
  45. 1 point
    Do a trackday, legalise mo fo
  46. 1 point
    The missus and the GF in the car together.... you're living dangerously mate! :)
  47. 1 point
    Vr6 arb fastens different and wider, and if you have done the 4x100 to 5x100widetrack conversion as it sounds like you have, u need a vr6 arb track rods, wishbones, hubs and driveshafts, all these parts are also on mk3 vr6s and mk3 gtis, if your struggling to find track Rods n arb I've got some in my garage
  48. 1 point
    Thanks for stepping up! I think it's just a case of everyone getting used to the new format- the forum was similar with past face lifts. Takes a few weeks for posting to get back to what it was before the change. Gonzo, any progress?
  49. 1 point
    so now all the prep is out of the way i turned to the engine wiring. firstly remove the engine plastics then the accelerator cable unplug and remove the isv unplug the connectors on the throttle body 6mm allen socket gets the four allen bolts off the throttle body, remove the body , 6mm allen bolt on the side of the manifold which holds the earth bracket and one again into the back of the head remove these. 6 x 6mm allen bolts that hold the front of the manifold on remove these disconnect the oil breather pipe on the right hand side disconnect the air temp sensor on the right hand side disconnect vacum pipe on the right hand side the manifold can now be removed. while i was at it i had an old metal rocker so i painted it to match the obd 2 one just so it look neater this job takes ?? 10-15 minuets engine bay looked like this with rocker removed get the obd2 engine wiring harness and familiarise yourselves with it, its going to be manky and oily i removed the multi pin conector from the metal housing as i wanted to paint it and it was manky i then removed the fuel injector plugs one at a time and replaced with the obd2 plugs one at a time. i used the vr6's fuel rail and injectors from the obd1 set up. again unplug the blue and yellow temp plugs from the housing and pull the loom out from under the coil pack around the back of the head and it should all come away quite nicely. plug in the obd2 plugs from the end of the fuel rail relocate the loom all the way around the head and place the multi pin connector back in the housing (i did this with the housing removed from car 3x 10mm bolts) at this stage you should replace the rocker cover and refit the manifold the loom then will be easy to put back into place connect up the obd2 throttle body and make sure all the plugs on the obd2 engine wiring loom are plugged in and everything is nice and secure. double check you have the accelerator cable guide on the inlet manifold. you can refit the cable now if you like its an easy task. now the best bit get the new and improoved obd2 chopped up loom but the loom hasnt been taped up yet?? i know its a ball ache but i think this is the best way as there are a few plugs still left on the loom which you dont know you might use and a dummy run just to make sure everything works is justifiable, pass the obd2 plugs through the bulk headand dont worry they only plug in in certain locations due to the way the plugs are deigned!! now the important bit all four plugs are in the fuse box. the white wire with purple tracer (this is the speed sensor wire) on the inner corrado loom needs to be connected to the golf loom (same colour wire) this bit of wire will need to be extended by about 6 inches. i cut the plug off of the corrado loom that we took out of the car, and added it to the golf loom, this then just plugs in nicely. look for a twin yellow plug it will have a grey wire with a white tracer and a yellow wire, the golf loom will have a grey wire with a white tracer, this needs to be connected to the grey wire with the white tracer on the corrado loom this connects the obd diagnositcs PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A PREVIOUSLY AUTO CAR THE GREY WIRE WITH WHITE CHASER STARTS AT THE BLACK CONNECTION BLOCK BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOLE WHICH IS CLIPPED TO THE METAL PLATE THAT THE CONSOLE IS SCREWED INTO. THIS WIRE WILL BE CASED IN A BLACK PLASTIC SHROWED. TRACE THE WIRE FROM HERE AROUND THE SHIFTER ACROSS THE CENTRE TUNNEL INFRONT OF THE DRIVERS SEAT , ALONG THE DRIVERS SILL AND IT WILL TERMINATE IN THE AUTO ECU MULTI PIN CONNECTOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WALL BEHIND THE BONNET PULL. TAKE OUT THE WIRE FORM THE MULTI PIN CONNECTOR AND CONNECT IT TO THE GREY /WHITE WIRE FROM THE OBD2 LOOM THAT STICKS THROUGH THE BULK HEAD. the big fat red wire with the blue tracer on it that comes through the bulk head on the obd2 loom needs to be plugged into the top right hand side of the fuse box the blue wire with the white tracer also has a blue plug on it this needs to be plugged into the small block of four connectors attached to the front (top) of the fuse box again this wire might need to be extended ok with everything connected in the fuse box double check and make sure you have plugged everything in on the engine side of things this is ready to fire up now , make sure nothing is dangling in the way of anything in the engine bay connect the battery back up . turn the key listen can you hear the fuel pump? do the relays click on turning the ignition on? can you hear the throttle body make a humming noise? good fire it up so its running all thats needed to do now is to tidy things up lets start with getting rid of this get rid of these the yellow one can go with this done you can start wrapping the loom i used self amalgamating tape 2 x rolls cost £10 i started with the plugs down by the starter motor and worked my way back to the fuse box yes the loom was still in the car as i wanted to get the loom back into the most original position i could... top tip start at the plugs by the starter motor and work up to firt join. then start from multi pin plug on engine loom and work back to first join then wrap the joint and continue up to the 2nd join work from th eecu plug back to 2 nd join and then wrap that join ....you get the idea . right so by now you might have already put back in the master and slave cylinder , this is ok if you have , the self amalgamating tape pulls the loom quite tightly together and now you have stripped out the crap it also makes the loom quite skiny so starting from the engine bay side wrap up as much of the loom as you possibly can even if you gently pull the loom through the bulk head until it wont go any further, then go in side the carand pull the loom back into the car wrap the loom in there and you will have then fully wrapped the obd2 loom place the gromet over the loom stick it in the hole and job done! replace all interior plastics and use existing cable ties to hold firm the loom in original position and your done enjoy your conversion! please feel free to add to this thread as my train of thought isnt exactly normal!! hope this has helped somebody out there..
  50. 1 point
    A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.
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