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  1. 3 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  2. 2 points
    There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.
  4. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  5. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  6. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  7. 2 points
  8. 1 point
    Deposit taken so the car is now sold. Thanks for all the interest.
  9. 1 point
    NOS sump and genuine original fixings.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Well done in hopefully sorting it. Sometimes it is hard to go back to the beginning to check things as we are 200% confident they were done right. Always catches me out and I end up back at the beginning 2 weeks later. We can always send you a non AC FCM unit across the water if you need it 👍
  12. 1 point
    afternoon all good news! having received another pm about looms we are up to 4 people so ive contacted Zak & he is happy to do another run. as per previous runs, he works offshore & sometimes for long periods so they will be done as soon as time & work allows. similar to the previous buys we will set a minimum quantity, once that is hit we will ask people for deposits & then final balance will be due once they are made & ready to ship could i please politely request that people only put their name down if they are certain they want a loom & are happy with the terms - unfortunately on the last run we had a couple of people who put their name down but then did not reply to any contact messages i will start to form a list once we have a bit more interest
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies guys, It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion. As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing. I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option. I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀 It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,
  15. 1 point
    I don’t know the proper part number I’m afraid but couldn’t you use a speed nut or captive nut like below. https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/300330970?type=shopping&msclkid=d7e8d2334ec315c86d72b013b925bfc7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - Brands&utm_term=4579809529099503&utm_content=Shopping - Miscellaneous Engine Parts-1 - OE-Quality https://www.bing.com/search?q=captive+nut&form=APIPH1&PC=APPL
  16. 1 point
    Not for me mate, but a very kind gesture 👍
  17. 1 point
    Few updates Bought a facia for the centre gauges to make it look better, its 3d printed Glued the LCD mount to the back Filling the face to make it smoother Click on picture below to se the video Video Sprayed the bonnet, needs some flatting now Then fitted this centre visor and today, the screen got fitted Still waiting for the DVLA to update my V5, only been 9 weeks so far, when I called they said it may take another 3 weeks which is a shame as I wanted to take it to VW Whitenoise 😞
  18. 1 point
    Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009
  19. 1 point
    The fan controller controls 3 speeds. 1 & 2 from the rad switch and 3rd speed from the black sender in the thermostat housing. The fan control unit sends power to one of the three cables from the signal it gets. That’s why you can join the three wires together near the fan plug without getting current bleed going somewhere else that connects to the new fans. I use the two signals from the rad switch and the black switch unplugged so I can’t go over temp and bring that signal in. It would have easier and less complicated to just use the rad switch for just the first two signals direct from the fan switch like the Phenix fan set up. mine don’t change speed. the slim fan come on a 95 Celsius and both come on at 105 Celsius. that shroud seem basic for the money and the fans aren’t the best either. My bent plate cost £40 I think and I cut it out with a jigsaw. Look on the Spal fan website to determine fans and flow rates. it’s the fans, relays and wiring where the money is.
  20. 1 point
    Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime
  21. 1 point
    Thought I'd try a different steering wheel 😉
  22. 1 point
    It's CCK068: HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com) Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.
  23. 1 point
    i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan
  24. 1 point
    Be concise and polite explaining the situation, obsolete / unobtainable in your country etc You never know your luck
  25. 1 point
    Ive got an old set of notes from Dennis on the now sadly defunct Canadian corrado club. I remember i had a real issue with the soldering of the relevant wires as they're so thick! Anyway, hope it helps. Just drop me a line if you need any more input. Hasan Wiring Modifications.doc
  26. 1 point
    Mrs had a 2010 Tdi for 2.5 years, nothing but servicing and a pair of rear spring broken - got rid of it after the emissions upgrade due to poorer low throttle response and dpf regen too frequent imo. a lad at work also has a Tdi with 130k and had a bill of around 1200 for the last mot for rear suspension springs, bushes and the electronically adjustable Dampers - they warned him of the impending fate of the front for the next mot..... he’s getting rid of it. The mrs is now a Scirocco spotter, “Ohh my old car” every journey - it’s the only car she’s ever taken any notice of... “Saw a lovely purple one today, have you seen the grey one on the new estate”, follow by “When you going to get your shit cars off my patio”...
  27. 1 point
    Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂
  28. 1 point
    That's the feed line - comes from the tank to the pump, then to the filter and then to your fuel accumulator. There should also be a return line that goes straight back to the tank.
  29. 1 point
    New purchase for the corrado, love these exhausts
  30. 1 point
    Trying to ignore this the best I can.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Check the wiring to the oil pressure switchs ,blue one ? yellow one ? where the wiring runs by the rad fan I got 2 switchs for about £15.00, but my switchs where ok
  34. 1 point
    What paint ? Looks good,I may have to copy you [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    Hi all! One month ago, at the age of 40, and dreaming at this car for 20 years or so, I had the joy of buying my dream car. Yes, it is only a 2L 8V, but I do not need the power of the VR6, I also own a Focus ST with 300+ BHP, so I do not miss the adrenaline, but I still miss the sound of a VR6. No problem. It is a Corrado, it is MINE, and it's pristine! (Except for the damn "wet back carpet when raining" issue that just happened 2 days ago, that is :bonk: and :scratch: me.. Otherwise, so far, it is a joy. It turns heads on the streets (almost nobody has a clue what car this is..) , it raises people's interest at car shows.. Nice to see that people still love this piece of engineering and history.. Too bad such cars are not built anymore. Even worse that the number of Corrados gets lower every year...
  36. 1 point
    All, Just a word of warning to avoid this seller on eBay. I purchased a "Corrado" steering rack from them and when it arrived, turned out to be for a MK3 Golf. They are insisting it is the same but there are differences between them as many people know who are knowledgeable on Corrados. They are only offering to refund it if I pay both sets of postage and a 20% re-stocking fee, so I would get about £20 back from the £50 I spent on it! I am in touch with trading standard and am seeking legal advice through work. Someone pointed out that it is the same company who failed to return a gents Schrick off the forum : http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=76610 I don’t like naming and shaming but feel that it is appropriate in this instance as they seem a fairly large supplier of Corrado used parts. Thanks, Andy
  37. 1 point
    Right, this is what I think you need per side: 3 x N 10657201 - oval head panel screw 6,3x16 3 x 443821699 - plastic clip for screw to screw into and 5 x N 01396921 - oval head panel screw 4,8x16 5 x N0116653 - washer 5,3x15x1,6 You can probably just get away with the first two line items. Get your dealer to show you the parts diagram to make sure they have the right ones.
  38. 1 point
    Anytime chris,I will pop and see you in the summer at some point...maybe in my Rallye if I can pull my finger out and finish it.
  39. 1 point
    Nice VR mate, love the colour, really suits the Corrado. Rog.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Hi guys, I'm from Ireland but now living in Cape Town, South Africa. Corrados are VERY rare cars over here (I have seen 2 in 11 years and now own one of them!) so getting a one owner G60 was pretty sweet. Actually the PO broke down in front of me and I stopped to help, we got chatting and next thing you know I'd bought the car! It needs ALOT of love but I've got all the mechanical bits sorted, now it's just the interior and paint to sort out. Cheers Joe
  42. 1 point
    I received the prototype binnacle covers yesterday. I will try and get some pictures up tonight to get a verdict from folks! Initial impressions are reasonably positive. As you'd expect size wise they are a perfect copy as they are a 3D scanned copy. Clips and everything look good so should be a perfect fit. The minor downsides I guess are that they're printed in a white plastic and then painted black on top. The coverage isn't totally perfect but I think once they're fitted you'd struggle to see any white plastic anywhere, and for those that were not totally happy a quick coat of a gloss black plastikote or similar would do the job. The texture on the top isn't exactly the same, but again, given the size of the pieces and their location, I'd be surprised if anyone noticed. I'm building myself up to prising off my current speedo binnacle covers (because I'm worried they'll break!) and test fitting these to see how they look over the weekend, and subject to feedback on the pictures, will be looking to put an order in with the company soon. Prices look to be as I estimated - about £10/pair delivered. Further updates as I have them!
  43. 1 point
    Boxed unused set of BBS RS301's Not rare corrado part but rare all the same.
  44. 1 point
    I think it's also worth adding that engine work aside, cosmetically this car is superb. The paint is in brilliant condition the whole way round. To build a Corrado to this condition would cost you far more, so should be a no brainer for anyone consider going for a VR6 Turbo. I've said it several times already, but its a real shame you're moving on Dave.
  45. 1 point
    Green vr6 L270VLT parked up . 5mins away from me buddy CARMEL LLANELLI S.WALES You used to have an 8v in purple
  46. 1 point
    Real bummer that , and to top it off you have to pay to get it back! Glad she is fine apart from the hotwire damage .
  47. 1 point
    thats pants, great you got it back possibly soon.
  48. 1 point
    Ok buddy, no problem. Let me know which light and I'll knock a bit off the total price for buying more than one item. I'll let you know a sensible postage price also. Hi Gaz, Can you let me know what the bolt looks like and I'll have a dig around for them. Noted also about the clocks, I'll let you know if Ste doesn't have them. Always willing to do deals on multiple purchases guys or make offers if the price set is wrong.
  49. 1 point
    I can imagine toad walking into the room just as you finish that sentence :lol:
  50. 1 point
    I think theres only so long you can blame this new look for the lack of interest people seem to be showing at the moment. There are the popular group on here which i would imagine know each other outside of the forum and they reply to each others threads consistantly but seem to ignore others? I mean this thread had a large number of views but nobody posted anything and it seems unlikely to me that nobody had any answers to give!? just a thought thats all, were all enthusiasts trying to keep corrado alive, so help a brother out!
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