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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

So finally got the engine back in the car, pretty chuffed with the outcome.

Started the re-assembly

Cheers Kippy, in your expert opinion, am I over restoring the car should I ever decide to enter it at somewhere like Stanford?

drop your name on here Triple relay uprated headlight looms - Page 14 - Forum Group-Buys - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) i will send out some PM's to those who have put name down so far & try to get it moving along

I'm newbie soldering. I don't know how to do it better 😅

Toby just replied, myself and Fendervg are Moderators again 👍

Thanks for all your kind words. Yes totally agree one would be crazy to think if you nut and bolt you will get your money back- I expect if these two corrado to out live many of us on here now if garaged and taken care of- all the salt and daily driving is that kills them- in fact renovation can be pulling back the clock of 25 years use . Im 100 percent moving onto buying a car restored or in low mileage - summer salt free car- just makes easier ownership and to come out of them- I just like the buzz of trying new cars so need to buy my cars renovation free in the future- easy to sell on and use straight away and not be double figures out of of pocket if i sell. I might well get a 16v runabout in a couple of years and enjoy if for its worts and have a comprehensive brake down cover. I will still be about though guys dont worry.

👍🏻. Without this mantra, the 8v would be scattered across the four corners of the kingdom by now. That said, I do feel like I’ve taken this theory to beyond any logical boundary with the VR. Injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning soon. And then other jobs. If I was hung up about driving it, I’d have thrown the towel in years ago. Great thing to look at, be it in dis-repair or gleaming in the sun.

VSR on the left and shrick on the right - I sold a shrick last year and it fetched 1500 and sold behind closed doors - vsr can expect to pay over double then a schrick but rarely come up for sale . Schrick come up at least a few times a year - vsr probs looking at 1 every few years . Last shrick I saw sell was a breaker found one on a sharan vr6 . As mentioned above fb is your best bet - most important thing is to make sure the butterfly flap screws are secure or they could drop off and chew your engine .

Is Bosch W6DPO still the recommended plugs to go for? If so where do all you guys get them as none of my local Factors can supply!

This is a late genuine fan switch from a good seller - check your pin lay out is that same as in a triangle as early has a horizontal 3 pin lay out. On diagram there is no sealing washer. https://www.deutsche-parts.co.uk/1h0959481b-switch-new-genuine-part.html

i've recently joined fb - but only for a few groups, one being the Corrado group there. A lot of US sellers and takes a while to sift through things

It's a good question and to be honest - it's hard to say! I did the fans at the same time as I did the engine rebuild so I haven't got a direct comparison on a fresh engine. They are the same size as the stock fans (11"); you might just be able to squeeze in 12" if you wanted to go bigger. Currently my engine temp sits at about 100 C in slow moving traffic in this weather which is OK I think. To be honest I thought it would be a little bit better than that what with the engine rebuild, but I don't know what would be considered low and high temps; however, I'm sure you'd get this with a stock fans as well. When I first got the car 10 years ago I am sure it ran fairly cool in traffic, around 90-100 (memory might be playing tricks there though!). I'm sure other people could confirm but 100 doesn't seem wildly low or beyond the realms of the OEM ones, but then who knows, if I had stuck with OEM fans I might be getting temps of 110 or so. I did have issues with engine temps sitting in traffic for long periods in the couple of years before I started the rebuild, to the point where the engine would start to run badly, and be on the verge of cutting out. But that was with a tired old engine so not really a good comparison. I also need to do an engine flush as I think deposits have built up in the rad (the old pipes I took off were coated) which won't help, so the fans might be battling against that. For the moment I am a little bit sceptical about whether it was worth it: It was a bloody hassle to sort (although would be a lot easier now I've done it once and got a guide), it's not really that much lighter (if you were thinking of that - about 1kg less), and doesn't seem to be greatly cooler. Think they might be a little bit quieter.

Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.

Filling with petrol is always good when troubleshooting a non-start scenario 😉

This was followed step by step by larger plastic parts. Unfortunately of course primarily LHD parts. For example: Number plate holder in European or American design 535813990 535813989. Frame for additional displays for early types 535 858 203. Air intakes as replacement for defective fog lights. Door sill plates 535 853 813 A.

Unlucky mate that tends to mean they are down to the last few so price high- luckily for the VR thay under half that price even though when at the dealers they were £600- . Glad to hear you finally sorted it.

Diagrams from the Bentley Manual for the 2.0 16v (9A) electrical circuit for the ECU, I have already listed most of them in a previous post, but thought these wiring diagrams may help also. Green dots show ECU pins. Si Some info here regarding the Lambda sensor on the 9A

Not much of an update, been a bit busy with the house this weekend Got a tip for the exhaust, nice fake carbon from ebay and started looking at the side repeater fitting in the mirrors because I deleted them from the wings

Looks a great example, well done. Be careful with the sunroof. A mk3 golf unit swaps straight in. Do you know if the mechanism is working fine? If it is faulty and you wind it back electrically it could damage the sunroof panel.... perhaps try doing it manually first using the Allen key at the sunroof motor. Fingers crossed that it is ok, preventative maintenance, lube the runner channels. Even better, take the lot out, strip it down, clean it, then lube it. Big job but worth it in the long term. Too many are broken out there and no spares are available Great car 👍

Yep, the tech guides were great - that was the one I used to do my heater matrix as well!

Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.

Make it 58 I need a pair of outer window scrapers

Pendine Sands! No wonder they rusted away!

I had a chuftie today to cheer me up after an awful day. My wife damaged the wheel (and possibly suspension) of the Golf in the snow today. I don't want anyone to drive it until it's been fixed and checked for further damage. So I collected my daughter from the school coach stop this afternoon in the Corrado. While I'm parked waiting a young guy, young 20's, returns to his own car. Before he got in he came over and knowcked on the window, asked how old it was, said he loved it and that Corrad's were one of his favourite cars. I was surprised he knew what it was and it's certainly older than him. So overall a crap day but a nice chuftie in the snow.

I'll check in the garage mate, i'm certain i had one or two.. Cheers.

Quoted for truth. I think of the almost entirely positive community we had here.. then I look at some of the garbage people post on Facebook and on YouTube comments, etc.. it's like a different world!

Corrado vr6 are 5x100 so in order to fit those wheels you would need adapters 5x100 to 5x120

Hi there I have one but would need to check wiring can do so at weekend if you haven't been sorted by then

Unfortunately you cant Chris however £100 is a little on the steep side I sold a clear set on Ebay around Christmas time for £50 :shrug:

Looks excellent 8)

Corrados never had wiper motor covers, peeps just put them on to make them look a bit nicer.

Welcome. The best colour :D

Corrado looks nice, that sportline looked a beaut too. I used to have a red sportline a few years ago.

he's had 10 years to sort it,hopefully should be done by now!!

The 02M diff shaft is bigger diameter than the O2A, so I don't think you can use O2M cups. For what it's worth, I used bog standard GKN replacements from GSF / EuroCarParts on my VR6 Turbo years ago and they're still going strong. But if you want mega strong, here are a couple of options: Best and strongest shafts / CVs - http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/volkswagen GKN do uprated shafts and joints too - http://www.gknservice.com/global/motorsport/cv_shafts_joints.html

Go for them Mike, I'm in two minds weather to mod or not.

I'm fighting the temptation to strip one down and make a replica of my Corrado.

I wonder if some of the H&R/Koni's harshness is to do with the bump settings in the dampers because the H&R springs aren't that hard. Low and high speed bump (or compression) can't be adjusted unfortunately. You can only adjust the rebound. Just to remind folk of the different damper characteristics: Low speed bump - The damper compressing slowly: brake dive, turn-in, driving up a kerb, B road undulations etc High speed bump - The damper compressing quickly: Potholes, speed bumps, cats eyes etc. Rebound - The damper returning to it's static state. This is the one that makes the car feel more 'planted' and sporty. It's the setting we notice the most and is usually the only adjustment offered. Damper manufacturers would prefer that we trust their judgement on the bump settings, especially the high speed one, but KW do at least give you a low speed adjustment on the V3s. Personally I think user adjustment of high speed bump would solve a few crashiness issues, but in order to get 3 way adjustable kits, you're looking at the wrong side of £2500. But if you consider what some peeps spend on their Corrados on superficial stuff, personally, I'd rather sink more into getting the car to corner and ride properly. And just to reiterate, 'coilovers' (or ride height adjustable to use the correct term) as a configuration isn't crashy. They can be way softer than the standard setup if so desired. It's the technology and settings that determine the ride quality. Just thought I'd throw that in as many people automatically associate crashiness to coilovers. It's the cheap £250 ebay specials that give the configuration a bad name. I tend to think of suspension as a tailored suit vs an off the peg Moss Bros one.