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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

I had to pull over and get this one !

I did the solid column years ago, it does make it feel a lot more positive, The cowls are getting hard to find, early and late “bottoms” are the same,just different part numbers, tops are different due to the hazard light ! Had the car in the body shop last Xmas, new sills, (eBay ones)came galvanised.Fitted really well, rear arches were showing signs of tin worm, so scored a set of second hand arches of eBay, cleaned up like new ! Front wings were not good, couldn’t find a decent set of late wings,so got a set of used “early”wings from a breaker local to me (eBay again) nearly rust free,the metal seems thicker on the earlier wings ! Body shop did a really good job putting it all together, bottom of the car was resprayed ,looks new again, struggling to put pics up at the moment

Just to update on my banjo bolt situation.... After a short hospital stay I finally got a chance to look into getting the old girl sorted and to my surprise when I looked at the smaller of the two banjo bolts, the one I took off the car didnt have the small filter in it, so I presume at some point its been changed and not with an OEM bolt. Given the car ran fine, just going to run on that basis, so ordered a couple of HEL performance stainless steel ones and also ordered a couple of the large bolts from the LLL website, so thanks for those Matt it was very useful. No excuses for me now! Dougie

Still look in practically every day Still have the G60 but due to go for its winter hibernation Still have various projects ongoing when i have the time which is not a lot at present

Well, a set of RS301’s became available so looks like the corrado won’t be standard for too long.

I asked in VWVortex like Popeye775 said and the first answer said yes it is factory.

From the VIN number, mine was produced 342 from the end of the production run so they were probably using up the parts they had left, and I’ve owned it since it was less than five years old so I expect it’s the original one too as it was too new for things to have started breaking! No UK cars were built with a/c but mine is definitely 2 plug and I’m sure that both plugs were wired when I fitted the Climatronic, I just had to add extra wires to the smaller plug.

Looks immachttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155661035229?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Df316b4877e9f4f779d675eb8bf24e0bc%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D155661035229%26itm%3D155661035229%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042ulate, 58K miles £24,000

Update, as I would have had to remove my "NOS", from about 2006 VDO Pump I mentioned I installed 18+ months ago to replace the fuel hoses (which I did change at the time , but stupid me, used the wrong hose, needs to be Submersible type, which I have now got Cohline 2190), it was just as well I did. The couple of small cracks noticed before install had spread like cancer, and given time probably the whole top cap would have broken apart, only the swirlpot top, where the return nozzle is affected, all the rest is fine, so its probably a different crappy plastic. See attached pictures, to me this evidence that the VOO NOS items, are probably not worth the risk, as even if the cracks are not there to start with, they could start sometime later. The Pump itself is ok, I have taken the unit apart completely to clean the filters, I obviously need to remove the old fuel (car has not been driven in 10+ years, has been started many times, but always on a low tank, and the fuel is now pretty horrible.! I may buy the JP Pump, and see if i can swap my VDO Pump into the JP casing, I would then have a spare pump.

I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....

Thanks to all of you for the help, really appreciate it. So.... I felt like to go to the bottom of this I had to do something I promised myself not to do again after replacing the heater matrix... I only had to remove a few trims though this time and got a access to it. Replaced it with the old one and got all 4 speeds working again! So that new one must be defective I guess. Case closed, up to the next ha haa. Cheers

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!

Hi, I was impressed with some refurbishment work I had done on the alternator, starter and PAS pump and thought I'd share the results. I didn't expect them to turn out so well so hope you enjoy the before and after shots as much as me. The chap puts on the oem stickers as well - nice touch. Bury Farm Autoparts in Bedfordshire did the work for £300 for all 3 units. He said he sources original compenents from all over Europe. They are actually a breakers yard with this business on the side. Real nice chap doing the work too.

It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !

Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.

There's 2 on ebay, £400 and £130

Oooo nice pic. We love freshly painted items more than xmas 😂

Congrats on your new Corrado. It looks very clean and is in one of the best colours for a C (in my opinion). Enjoy your new purchase, you won't regret it. Here is a few links to parts suppliers and specialists that might help. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ https://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ https://www.jabbasport.com/

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009

This is not based on experience with VR6s. Mine comes from living with generations of Saab engines. If you havent - drastically - increased the rev limit to - say 8000 rpm, or added a supercharger or turbo to boost beyond 1.6 BAR, as long as your rebuild - if you've done one - finely balanced the moving mass of crank, rods and pistons, the basic pulley should be fine. Was there a reason for not refitting the original pully back into place? Did it get destroyed because the nut wouldn't budge? There seem to be a few second hand pulleys on the market - here's one.Corrado 2.9 VR6 Genuine VW Crankshaft Pulley | eBay I cannot see the of a lightened pulley to a road engine. Mk3s seem to have a lighter pulley. Perhaps one of the R32 chappies could chime in here- it seems to me that the R32 pulley fits straight on - looking at the parts spec on paper. Second hand it seems to cost around £60, or £350 ish new.

Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation? I pu those in mine, very happy with them 👍

The part number suffix (letter) can change to indicate a later version or substitution. Hella are a good brand - chances are the VW one is made by them or by Bosch, so I wouldn't worry about quality. The relay can go bad over time - a good way to test this is to jumper the connection the relay makes with a short length of wire - this should run your pump directly. It's a fairly common relay and should be easy to source.

Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂

Been tinting rear lights

Hi all, I've been away from the forum for a number of years now after selling my last Rado. At the time, my wife and I (now ex-wife sadly, we even met here on the forum) found we couldn't have children, so opted to adopt a dog (less expensive than kids, so more money for cars). Sadly he wasn't too keen on being in the back of a Rado, and we didn't think it'd be fair dragging him along to meets etc, and trips to the Pod. So, we sold the Rado and bought a Land Rover. I'm now with someone else, expecting our second child. The current mrs isn't into the Landy and green laning, so I've been considering getting back to the Rado scene, as she's more likely to be persuaded into joining me on that front. Having come back to the forum, I thought it would be good to find out how my last ride is doing. We sold it to a fellow enthusiast (I think he was already a member here) who had plans for it (thankfully not like the muppet/con man that bought my 1.8 16v.......also a member on here sadly), and I'd love to see how it looks now. So, if you're the current owner of the Rado in the subject title, please feel free to post some photos on this thread, I miss the car and would love to see it again, even if just a photo or two.

Awesome. Payment and PM sent!

It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

Hi all, Firstly - thanks for the donations - they do all help! I've always prided myself on keeping this forum clean - so I do try to keep the adverts and begging down to a minimum so you can all enjoy the site rather than get bombarded with pleas... But - to be fair - the link is at the bottom of every page - it's also in my and a couple of the Mods' signatures - so does get about the forum a bit! I think it's in the welcome PM too.... But, clearly not enough if you managed to miss it! Thanks again, though!

The colour looks sensational, nice and original. Welcome along

Nice,welcome :)

Go for them Mike, I'm in two minds weather to mod or not.

Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you

Pics might be in wrong order, just tried to link them all again, in a rush :lol:

In india !! With the unicorns

Boxed unused set of BBS RS301's Not rare corrado part but rare all the same.

Because it makes me smile when driving back roads or up the west coast. Because it's easy to maintain Because it's been very reliable Because it's the best value for money out there in my opinion when you take everything into account Because it's different Because it has a V6 Because parts are cheap (compared to an Audi S4 for example!) I could go on :)

U1/6 will be at the fuse box in the footwell not engine bay.that green wire should go to the old digifant ecu.Have you not removed it?

Hi which part is it rod

Vr6 arb fastens different and wider, and if you have done the 4x100 to 5x100widetrack conversion as it sounds like you have, u need a vr6 arb track rods, wishbones, hubs and driveshafts, all these parts are also on mk3 vr6s and mk3 gtis, if your struggling to find track Rods n arb I've got some in my garage

This is one for Andi i guess? There is a small icon, sometimes green under the username status eg Donator/Super Moderator etc Some only say the username when you hover over it.......BUT some people are either on a distinguished road or an unknown quantity So what is it? :scratch:

i will have to have a look i think its just a bare hub

The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.