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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    I have a bodywork guy coming to take a look at the car tomorrow. Once I have a price back then I will way up the odds of fixing up the car vs staying married!
  7. 1 point
    Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.
  8. 1 point
    Generally speaking that how prices do increase, someone gets ambitious, an another undercuts a bit and the prices roll up because of it. It happened with the Corrado over the last 5 years, speculators are now stopping enthusiasts owning the cars of their youth.
  9. 1 point
    Not sure what that relay is that your using, The best fuel pump relay to use is 191 906 383 C Pin3 on connecter G1 behind the fuse box is the trigger signal wire from the ECU which goes to pin85 on the fuel pump relay, pin86 on the same relay goes to a switched live (when key is turned) I’ve seen you been messing about with your fuel pump so unplug it first then check all fuel pump relay connections.
  10. 1 point
    Is Bosch W6DPO still the recommended plugs to go for? If so where do all you guys get them as none of my local Factors can supply!
  11. 1 point
    As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with
  12. 1 point
    There is a guy that has remade various parts, including the full rebuild sets. Pretty sure he’s only doing a certain amount of parts then they’ll be gone
  13. 1 point
    Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours
  14. 1 point
    Late bulged bonnet. Late wider arched front wings. Late bumper - body line goes straight and tapers out. Late headlamp again Rear arches are the same early and late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.
  16. 1 point
    The slims aren’t massively better but quieter, it’s also that with them being new they should be more reliable. As you know I have a turbo fitted and as such more heat in the bay and a big fat intercooler infront of the radiator doesn’t help either, the fans were coming on a fair bit. I read up on spal fans and their abilities and went for 12” fans the best slim and a very powerful not so slim. This set up really does draw a lot of air when both are on. My cooling is definitely better than before and hopefully because it’s new it won’t matter how often it comes on. If new OE fans were available off the shelf I might have stuck to stock but I think this set up works well for the heat I’ve got to get rid of in slow moving traffic on a hot day. Having said all that my previous Corrado was a stock set up and I never really had problems with that, over 20k miles but I did change the thermostat, housing and sensors early on and the correct coolant with not much water. But these days the fans are nearly 30 years old so it’s a problem you might have to solve one day anyway. My 12” set up when nearly finished. It does fit but that’s about as big as you can go.
  17. 1 point
    no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you
  18. 1 point
    Could be the motor on the fan too
  19. 1 point
    i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan
  20. 1 point
    i have always run Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 in my VR6 - i buy it from Opie Oils online it is expensive but fully synthetic & one of the best out there
  21. 1 point
    Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation? I pu those in mine, very happy with them 👍
  22. 1 point
    This was followed step by step by larger plastic parts. Unfortunately of course primarily LHD parts. For example: Number plate holder in European or American design 535813990 535813989. Frame for additional displays for early types 535 858 203. Air intakes as replacement for defective fog lights. Door sill plates 535 853 813 A.
  23. 1 point
    Unlucky mate that tends to mean they are down to the last few so price high- luckily for the VR thay under half that price even though when at the dealers they were £600- . Glad to hear you finally sorted it.
  24. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍
  25. 1 point
    Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    Golf MK3 fuel tank Part number 1H0 201 075AR 55ltr tank with no restricted fuel neck 26mm From 1992 to 1997 Golf MK3 fuel tank 1H0 201 075AS 55ltr tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1992 to 1997 I think the Golf MK3 fuel tank/s are 55ltr only and can come with two different sized fuel neck diameters of 26mm and 22mm. Whereas the Corrado is available in 55ltr and 70ltr tanks and I think only has fuel neck diameter of 22mm. Hope this helps Si
  27. 1 point
    No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.
  28. 1 point
    Make it 58 I need a pair of outer window scrapers
  29. 1 point
    Well the new retro line they cost silly money like 4 K a set as I spoke to the UK dealer in Recaro. There is a seller on ebay from Poland who will supply and trim a set of LS that look exactly the same and reckons he can sort out the seat bases none electric - at the end of it wont be far off a set of stock Recaro seats and will be none electric- although they will be brand new and don't have to worry about the electrics failing. Also can supply heating for not much extra cost. Here is the guy in Poland and if you look through the pictures the orange ones are just like the recaro . Any colour or material. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECARO-LS-LSb-seats-the-Pair-Leather/264529584394?hash=item3d9731210a:g:kq8AAOSwSK9dyWxf
  30. 1 point
    Finally back in the car. Secured and sealed up. A difficult part was lining it up against the heater directional box. It was catching the hot to cold flap, which I turned to hard!!! So lesson to all, take your time and you won't have to reset the dash controls. Since working it out the Hot to Cold flap now turns incredibly smoothly. There is however no way of securing the two units together, so I used a tyrap to hold it up and in line, some sticky sponge to seal and close the gap, then gaffa tape all around. A very efficient system now. Fingers crossed that I can get it pressure tested soon and that it won't leak....... Be interesting to see if this converted mk4 golf evaporator does the job, especially after all this time and money.
  31. 1 point
    Not seen one for a very long time. In fact the last one I saw (in any form) was the one featured on the cover of Autocar. It came up for sale about 2008. Was in Blackpool and was in really rough shape. I had my eye on it, but as much as I wanted a press car to add to the family, it was just too far gone. In fact, If I remember the advert correctly, his wife bought it for him as a project off ebay. Once he saw the state of the cills/arches he fell out with the idea (It certainly put me off). It was also a time when early 16vs (without an MOT) were changing hands for £300+. And ones in good order £1000+ So not much interest in putting the effort in. Running a check of their regs in the MOT checker looks like they've all been SORN (broken for parts ?) for at least 6 years.
  32. 1 point
    Yeah I do. I love cleaning my balls and then whacking them really hard.
  33. 1 point
    They do crop up every now and again. You're looking at around £750-850 for a full leather interior inc door cards. I too was looking for a leather interior and a couple have come up over the last year to give you an idea. I've decided against leather though as I don't have air-conditioning and used to own a car with leather without air-con and it was a sticky sweat fest in summer! Instead, and sharing for options yourself, I thought I'd get my cloth recovered with some plaid/tartan trim or something period correct in the centres and go leather on the side bolsters. Other alternatives can be to fit Audi TT fron seats (c £150) but some fabrication is needed. Or source some recaro's from another car (c £200-300) and trim and fabricate a base. Or source some real Corrado recaro's but they are £1500-2000 which is just plain redicilous given the value of the Corrado compared to other modern classics these other recoro's come out of.
  34. 1 point
    Give them a call on 01273 444000 Think they're open tomorrow? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    The car looked absloutley stunning all weekend. Well deserved, unfortunatley I never got the chance to speak to you
  36. 1 point
    It's a 1995 M plate in LC6U green ( I think that's the right paint code) it's got full black leather with heated seats, it's even got the original matts front and back and the sunroof works! I've done loads to it since I got in in November, it's had all new fluids, brake callipers, disks and pads all round. A full service with new spark plugs, leads and a coil pack as it had got a big split in the side of it. The throttle body and Maff have been off and cleaned and I also changed the sump and gasket as it was "weeping" a bit. The idle's not brilliant on it at the minute but I'm working on that and it's being Terra Cleaned next Saturday so hopefully that will clean the injectors. The front fogs were completely gone due to the heat so I have changed them for the JOM ones you can buy from Germany and there absolutely brilliant and well worth the money. The paints a little tired where it's just been left with years of dust on it and the garage it was in was only small so it's been knocked a bit, from a distance it looks immaculate but within a meter you can tell so I had someone out Thursday so price up to paint it which I'll have done in July/August time. The forum is really good as I like reading and it tells you where to look for problems, one I found was where dirt gets trapped behind the fuel filler neck and corrodes the body out. I've taken the fuel tank out (really quite easy) and cleaned POR 15 any rust, stone chipped and repainted all the wheel arches in the original body colour, looks brand new but without the forum I wouldn't know where to look. I've also changed the suspension to coil overs as the originals were as rusty as hell plus is lowered the car just that bit. Really enjoying the challenge.. Sorry going on a bit now..
  37. 1 point
    Did mine recently in light gloss grey. They won't go rusty, keep themselves clean, and look almost original (they don't scream at you that they've been painted- so probably not what you had in mind).
  38. 1 point
    Hi everyone, not new to VW or Corrado's but time to give the old girl sone TLC and get some advice from all you experts 😊 This is my 2nd corrado VR6 and I've owned 3 mk3 Golf VR's and 2 mk4 GTI TDI 25TH Anniversarys over the years. Sold my old Corrado to my buddy @fishmaestro and he helped secure a tidy blackberry VR for me coming home from a couple of years overseas. Living in East Lothian Scotland and can honestly say I've only seen 2 other Corrado's since returning 18months ago. Maybe I'm not getting out enough, although the good one's are definitely getting harder to come by! Not got too much planned at the moment but I've spent the last few months trying to source a decent set of 16" BBS RX 5x100 to no avail. Any help would be much appreciated! Also looking to replace wing mirror glass as edges are tarnished, is there a how to thread on here? Last thing I'm looking to do with the weather change is a windscreen wiper/wiper arm upgrade, do people still recommend the Lupo GTI ones? Looking forward to learning some tips and sharing some pics n progress! Cheers, Matt
  39. 1 point
    Corrados never had wiper motor covers, peeps just put them on to make them look a bit nicer.
  40. 1 point
    Welcome. The best colour :D
  41. 1 point
    Spoke to someone called Moses. Friendly chap and managed to sort me out a much better price than any one else so thanks guys. Saved over £130.
  42. 1 point
    I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.
  43. 1 point
    Ok buddy, no problem. Let me know which light and I'll knock a bit off the total price for buying more than one item. I'll let you know a sensible postage price also. Hi Gaz, Can you let me know what the bolt looks like and I'll have a dig around for them. Noted also about the clocks, I'll let you know if Ste doesn't have them. Always willing to do deals on multiple purchases guys or make offers if the price set is wrong.
  44. 1 point
    The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB
  45. 1 point
    U1/6 will be at the fuse box in the footwell not engine bay.that green wire should go to the old digifant ecu.Have you not removed it?
  46. 1 point
    With the car running you may want to turn the car full lock left to right a few times and keep an eye on the power steering fluid and top up as necessary. It should quiten down after several turns. Turn the steering wheel from outside with the driver window down so you can dont have to get in and out of the car all the time and you can hear the whine and top up fluid easier.
  47. 1 point
    OK I've done my baseline research and decided a torquey rotary with variable speed is the polisher for me. Only snag is choosing one. As per usual, 10 different people say 10 different polishers are the best. One make that does get mentioned a few times is this fella :- http://www.powertools2u.co.uk/sanders-and-polishers/makita-9227cb---180mm-sander-polisher.htm I can't find anywhere that sells this polisher as a 'kit' with various cutting compounds and pads etc. Any know of somewhere that does? Ta
  48. 1 point
    so now all the prep is out of the way i turned to the engine wiring. firstly remove the engine plastics then the accelerator cable unplug and remove the isv unplug the connectors on the throttle body 6mm allen socket gets the four allen bolts off the throttle body, remove the body , 6mm allen bolt on the side of the manifold which holds the earth bracket and one again into the back of the head remove these. 6 x 6mm allen bolts that hold the front of the manifold on remove these disconnect the oil breather pipe on the right hand side disconnect the air temp sensor on the right hand side disconnect vacum pipe on the right hand side the manifold can now be removed. while i was at it i had an old metal rocker so i painted it to match the obd 2 one just so it look neater this job takes ?? 10-15 minuets engine bay looked like this with rocker removed get the obd2 engine wiring harness and familiarise yourselves with it, its going to be manky and oily i removed the multi pin conector from the metal housing as i wanted to paint it and it was manky i then removed the fuel injector plugs one at a time and replaced with the obd2 plugs one at a time. i used the vr6's fuel rail and injectors from the obd1 set up. again unplug the blue and yellow temp plugs from the housing and pull the loom out from under the coil pack around the back of the head and it should all come away quite nicely. plug in the obd2 plugs from the end of the fuel rail relocate the loom all the way around the head and place the multi pin connector back in the housing (i did this with the housing removed from car 3x 10mm bolts) at this stage you should replace the rocker cover and refit the manifold the loom then will be easy to put back into place connect up the obd2 throttle body and make sure all the plugs on the obd2 engine wiring loom are plugged in and everything is nice and secure. double check you have the accelerator cable guide on the inlet manifold. you can refit the cable now if you like its an easy task. now the best bit get the new and improoved obd2 chopped up loom but the loom hasnt been taped up yet?? i know its a ball ache but i think this is the best way as there are a few plugs still left on the loom which you dont know you might use and a dummy run just to make sure everything works is justifiable, pass the obd2 plugs through the bulk headand dont worry they only plug in in certain locations due to the way the plugs are deigned!! now the important bit all four plugs are in the fuse box. the white wire with purple tracer (this is the speed sensor wire) on the inner corrado loom needs to be connected to the golf loom (same colour wire) this bit of wire will need to be extended by about 6 inches. i cut the plug off of the corrado loom that we took out of the car, and added it to the golf loom, this then just plugs in nicely. look for a twin yellow plug it will have a grey wire with a white tracer and a yellow wire, the golf loom will have a grey wire with a white tracer, this needs to be connected to the grey wire with the white tracer on the corrado loom this connects the obd diagnositcs PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A PREVIOUSLY AUTO CAR THE GREY WIRE WITH WHITE CHASER STARTS AT THE BLACK CONNECTION BLOCK BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOLE WHICH IS CLIPPED TO THE METAL PLATE THAT THE CONSOLE IS SCREWED INTO. THIS WIRE WILL BE CASED IN A BLACK PLASTIC SHROWED. TRACE THE WIRE FROM HERE AROUND THE SHIFTER ACROSS THE CENTRE TUNNEL INFRONT OF THE DRIVERS SEAT , ALONG THE DRIVERS SILL AND IT WILL TERMINATE IN THE AUTO ECU MULTI PIN CONNECTOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WALL BEHIND THE BONNET PULL. TAKE OUT THE WIRE FORM THE MULTI PIN CONNECTOR AND CONNECT IT TO THE GREY /WHITE WIRE FROM THE OBD2 LOOM THAT STICKS THROUGH THE BULK HEAD. the big fat red wire with the blue tracer on it that comes through the bulk head on the obd2 loom needs to be plugged into the top right hand side of the fuse box the blue wire with the white tracer also has a blue plug on it this needs to be plugged into the small block of four connectors attached to the front (top) of the fuse box again this wire might need to be extended ok with everything connected in the fuse box double check and make sure you have plugged everything in on the engine side of things this is ready to fire up now , make sure nothing is dangling in the way of anything in the engine bay connect the battery back up . turn the key listen can you hear the fuel pump? do the relays click on turning the ignition on? can you hear the throttle body make a humming noise? good fire it up so its running all thats needed to do now is to tidy things up lets start with getting rid of this get rid of these the yellow one can go with this done you can start wrapping the loom i used self amalgamating tape 2 x rolls cost £10 i started with the plugs down by the starter motor and worked my way back to the fuse box yes the loom was still in the car as i wanted to get the loom back into the most original position i could... top tip start at the plugs by the starter motor and work up to firt join. then start from multi pin plug on engine loom and work back to first join then wrap the joint and continue up to the 2nd join work from th eecu plug back to 2 nd join and then wrap that join ....you get the idea . right so by now you might have already put back in the master and slave cylinder , this is ok if you have , the self amalgamating tape pulls the loom quite tightly together and now you have stripped out the crap it also makes the loom quite skiny so starting from the engine bay side wrap up as much of the loom as you possibly can even if you gently pull the loom through the bulk head until it wont go any further, then go in side the carand pull the loom back into the car wrap the loom in there and you will have then fully wrapped the obd2 loom place the gromet over the loom stick it in the hole and job done! replace all interior plastics and use existing cable ties to hold firm the loom in original position and your done enjoy your conversion! please feel free to add to this thread as my train of thought isnt exactly normal!! hope this has helped somebody out there..
  49. 1 point
    A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.
  50. 1 point
    Remove the Chin Spoiler indicators fog lights and holders Temp sensor connector (front right of bumber if sat in C) Undo plastic wheel arch protectors where needed jack front of car up and get onto stands each side of the engine are 3 bolts, undo the outside two on each side DO NOT REMOVE THE MIDDLE ONE otherwise the engine WILL drop on you bumper slides forward
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