Leaderboard

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Hi all, i thought it was high time i shared my G60 build with you . This car is now completed so the thread updates aren't in real time so its a copy and paste exercise for the most part but i will try to keep to thread updated in the future . Thanks for reading . Okay so back in 2020 i already had a G60 in black as a project bought on a bit of a whim and which needed quite a bit of work ! Always on the hunt for parts for it i had bought a few random parts off a uk ebay seller , by chance i spotted in one of his pictures the faintest outline of a what looked like a fairly complete car in red. enquired what the story with it and i turned out that this was the car he was breaking the parts for sale off !! Turns out he had owned the car since 2001 and had embarked on a semi refresh of the underside of the car not long after purchasing it ,the usual jobs ,subframe ,rear beam ,wishbones blasted and powdercoated ,new supsension etc. only it seems like he had bitten off more than he could chew ,along with a very small workspace ( see below )it just seemed to have gotten the better of him and he lost interest in it . Years later he starting selling of bits of the car gradually on ebay where i came across him. He was willing to sell off the remains of the car so a deal was done , i bought the whole lot sight unseen ,i was taking a bit of a chance on it but the cost of the new spare parts that came with it alone was worth the asking price.

First time out of the garage since January 2021

There was a short write up from Chris de Bono in the Autumn 1996 edition of Sprinter followed by the for sale advert in the Summer 1997 edition. I seemed to remember seeing photos in colour at the time but guess they must have been somewhere else. Dusty Mauve.pdf Campaian.pdf

Not SORN No MOT since online records began Same owner since 1998 Not exported Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check the blue/white wire in the radio loom - it is probably connected wrong or earthing against something randomly. It should only be connected if you have a radio that support speed dependent volume control (GALA) and not many do. Otherwise, the spoiler control module may be at fault, and worth swapping out with one that is known to work.

We will post up what we find. BlackBerry it is 👌

TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.

If it’s been say for years as you say, it’s probably valve stem seals and such in the head that’s gone all hard. The block may still be good with that mileage and may not need a rebore. Stealth quoted in the region of £1500 for head refurb, chains and guides a couple of years ago. If the block needs work when he opens it up, your car is in the right garage for the work. Get the crank seals done while it’s in bits either way though. It’s well worth asking to speak to Vince and get a quote, he really does know the VR6 and doesn’t waste your money or time.

Hey guys and gals, just want to say thanks to everyone who offered support on my project. It’s been a couple of years in the making, but finally completed everything last year! Literally everything has been replaced! Full respray, rebuilt 20vt, Ko3s turbo, stage 2, wiring loom by Dubnutz, all new belts, new cambelt, auxiliary, water pump, alternator, tensioner, battery, Brembo brakes (+G60 calipers), discs, pads, wheel bearings, abs pump, all wheel sensors, leather seats, new headlining, all sensors, knock, water, oil, air, aem AFR, new intercooler and pipework, hybrid shallow sump + new oil return pipe, full stainless power flow exhaust with track-slag down pipe, all fluids changed, new wheels, tyres, new windscreen and the list goes on!… really looking forward to catching up with likeminded enthusiasts this year and any corrado owners up for meeting up in the East Midlands for a convoy and a cruise feel free to link me up! cheers, Luke

Late body g60 also only has one pump - and uses the early in tank vr 3 bar pierburg pump- same bracket as a vr for fuel filter. Fuel pressure regulator they are obsolete on a g60 though what a shit show. My guess is your electric plug/cabling on fuel pump or sender unit is wrong- the pump you have fitted is the single pump same as a VR or late G60 my car is the same.

That is one great looking car and with a lot of nice goodies, not much it doesnt have. Great cars are worth paying for. Just a few niggles to sort out, but there is always something that is needed with all our cars Well done in getting her 👍

I have about 20 left new lenses for RHD headlights. I would like to exchange 1 piece new for 2 used right. If anyone is interested please PM me. Greetings Chris

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours

Hi all. I'm still the owner of the vehicle. I have used It today! It has been exported to Spain as I've moved back in 2019,that is the reason why appears as sorn. The car still in very good condition as I keep It garaged over every winter and only use It when is dry & Sunny. Have a look yo the pictures, un one of them you can see the spanish registration plate. That's how the car looks at the moment. During my ownership I've fully restored the cream leather recaro, fitted original dash dials back, leather steering wheel, genuine bbs RS. On the exterior , Removed rear clear inpro tailights and fitted the original back, front 90mm spoiler , yellow high Beam bulbs covers and vr6 front badge. For the engine... Shrick manifold and remap at Stealth. The car had a couple of mechanical familiares but nothing mayor, thermostat housing crack, alternativa and adicional eléctric coolant pump had a leak. Next winter I'm planning to take engine out, subframe, wishbones, rear acle and get everything sandblasted and powercoated and fit everything back. Hope I'll update all the progress here, M660GGJ still Alive guys! Currently is showing 148k miles on the clock BEST regards Luis

Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime

I saw some of your rust issues on Facebook , mine was very similar, sadly the underseal is now hiding the problems instead of preventing them 🤣 The fuel tank is an awkward beast, especially if it’s got a decent amount in it, definitely easier with 2 bodies

I try and avoid sams salvage

Something wrong there then, I’d put a proper fuse in and see if there is power to the switch. if the switch is goosed you can get one of these mk3 controllers, the switch is basically the same just upside down on the other side. I used one to fix mine. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/1h0820045c-fresh-air-and-heater-controls.html

No worries glad to be of help 👍 You're only 21 and sorting out electrical issues fair play you're doing a great job there 👏 Si

I looked on the website and for you and could not see one in Spain. Maybe call them and ask for help. https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/

I'd say don't bother testing, just replace it with a new one - that noise it's making in your video is not good.

Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!

L824 WLD grey Vr6 joined the M1 motorway travelling south 06:25. Looked in good condition, although the heater doesnt work as he had his hoody up 🤣🤣

Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍

Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.

Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado. Just kidding. Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems. Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure. The main grounds to check or replace are: 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down. Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation. All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

Why? Ok it's a KR, but aside from a wing and bit of paint on the front bumper it doesn't look that bad. It's been off the road for a number of years granted and it's not a great ad, but that doesn't mean it's unsalvageable, far from it. Some people want a project and will be happy to pay 2 -2.5k (which is my estimate of it from the pics) for something they can slowly restore. It's not always about end gain, appreciation or the investment, it's about enjoying the hobby and someone will only have a budget that will stretch so far to begin with. It's a decent enough starter for someone and if they swap the Recaros for a set of leather in fair condition, it'll look like a bargain. I've been in ownership long enough to know what can and can't be done with a bit of knowhow and enthusiasm.

Well the new retro line they cost silly money like 4 K a set as I spoke to the UK dealer in Recaro. There is a seller on ebay from Poland who will supply and trim a set of LS that look exactly the same and reckons he can sort out the seat bases none electric - at the end of it wont be far off a set of stock Recaro seats and will be none electric- although they will be brand new and don't have to worry about the electrics failing. Also can supply heating for not much extra cost. Here is the guy in Poland and if you look through the pictures the orange ones are just like the recaro . Any colour or material. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECARO-LS-LSb-seats-the-Pair-Leather/264529584394?hash=item3d9731210a:g:kq8AAOSwSK9dyWxf

This. Still love my car(s), either running or not. But hells teeth, I’d give second thoughts to starting again. And I think that’s where a lot of the value is. Simply keeping one running is hard enough, finding parts and restoring one = serious hours searching for parts. Spending nearly a year trying to obtain a straight drivers scraper seal in fair condition, plus four months for head bolts and a brake compensator kind of knocks the shine off it a little. Hopefully it sells for strong money and makes the Corrado more visual to other petrol heads / collectors. That way we all benefit and with it more reason for manufacturers to provide greater part support.

Done some digging and found the info and pics - sharing for others: Generally - always use wood or some rubber on top of jacks and axle stands - hockey putt or old suspension top mount. These are the jacking points. Best to not use a trolley jack on the seems. Either use the 2nd pic or some wood behind the seems in the green areas to jack: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95876[/ATTACH] When jacking the the front use the green bolt or around it if also using it to support on axle stands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95879[/ATTACH] Alternatively you can use the rear of the front sub frame, but my jack does't easily reach that far. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95882[/ATTACH]

It's a 1995 M plate in LC6U green ( I think that's the right paint code) it's got full black leather with heated seats, it's even got the original matts front and back and the sunroof works! I've done loads to it since I got in in November, it's had all new fluids, brake callipers, disks and pads all round. A full service with new spark plugs, leads and a coil pack as it had got a big split in the side of it. The throttle body and Maff have been off and cleaned and I also changed the sump and gasket as it was "weeping" a bit. The idle's not brilliant on it at the minute but I'm working on that and it's being Terra Cleaned next Saturday so hopefully that will clean the injectors. The front fogs were completely gone due to the heat so I have changed them for the JOM ones you can buy from Germany and there absolutely brilliant and well worth the money. The paints a little tired where it's just been left with years of dust on it and the garage it was in was only small so it's been knocked a bit, from a distance it looks immaculate but within a meter you can tell so I had someone out Thursday so price up to paint it which I'll have done in July/August time. The forum is really good as I like reading and it tells you where to look for problems, one I found was where dirt gets trapped behind the fuel filler neck and corrodes the body out. I've taken the fuel tank out (really quite easy) and cleaned POR 15 any rust, stone chipped and repainted all the wheel arches in the original body colour, looks brand new but without the forum I wouldn't know where to look. I've also changed the suspension to coil overs as the originals were as rusty as hell plus is lowered the car just that bit. Really enjoying the challenge.. Sorry going on a bit now..

I can do that. My german is very well.

Hello there, on some vehicles once the battery is disconnected you can some times lose the basic ECU settings, if the battery has been disconnected for 20 to 30 mins or more, but this normally relates to vehicles that have the full multi point fuel injection system, where the injectors are linked directly in to the ECU as well as most of the other engine sensors, on these such vehicles you'd have to use a diagnostic scanner to remove any fault codes from the ECU memory chip, and drive the car for 30 to 40 mins so the ECU can collect fresh data from all engine sensors, and log all basic related settings back in it's memory. On some of the new vehicles this can happen if the battery is disconnected for long periods. But on your Corrado 2.0 16v as it's got the old style fuel metering head like on the later MK1 Golfs and MK2 Golf GTI, it's basically mechanical injection as it has the fuel distributor, fuel governor and air flow sensor all in the one metering head unit, so this set up doesn't really lose it's basic ECU settings unlike the more advanced ECU system like on most modern cars including the VR6 but as you've said it only took 5 mins to replace the battery you should be ok, from what you've said it does sound like one of the circuits has had a power surge or something for a split second, which can happen when you replace a battery. You should always remove the black negative (EARTH) lead first, and it should always be the last lead to fit back to the battery terminal. The red live (POWER) lead is always the second one to remove from the battery, and should be the first one to fit back to battery terminal before the earth lead. If you don't fit and remove the battery terminal leads as above then you can course a small power surge, or in some cases it can course a short, it can still happen if you do use the correct procedure but it's very rare. . Plus you've said that you have to apply full throttle to start your Corrado up from stone cold, this again is a classic symptom of over fueling. Full throttle down to assist starting is a symptom of a lack of fuel / too much fuel / very weak spark / very low compression. But like I say in your case as your Corrado starts fine when it's warm / hot, and is difficult to start from cold it'll be too much fuel meaning the fuel to air ratio, will be out so the engine will stall when cold or idle very lumpy until it's up to temp. It does sound as though the Coolant temp switch has died or is on the weak side, this can affect the car starting from cold or even when the engine is warm, it really depends on how the coolant temp switch has burnt out. They are normally white or blue in colour and have a 2 pin plug on the Corrado 2.0 16v The other thing it could be is the Lambda sensor, this detects any un-burnt fuel deposits with in exhaust waste fumes, but normally you'll have erratic idling and can have highish fuel economy complete with engine being under powered slightly, plus you might hear the odd popping sound from the exhaust tail pipe due to the extra fuel being used. These normally on the 2.0 16v have a black 4 pin plug with a separate earth wire. Most OEM Lambda's are Bosch ones, cost is around £58.00 to £78.00 off Ebay Some times the cold start injector can stick open which floods the cylinders with fuel, again coursing bad cold starting. This is normally linked into the coolant temp switch circuit, so once the engine warms up slightly the coolant temp switch, should then tell the ECU to turn off the cold start program. Secondhand these are around £25.00 to £38.00 off Ebay, and new from VW Main Dealer they could be close to £100.00 if not more, that's if they still stock them, if they don't then try VW Heritage. This is the part number for the 1.8 16v cold start valve ( 026 906 171A ) it might even be the same for the 2.0 16v. When testing the cold start valve / injector you can remove the 2 pin connector plug and see if it effects it's running on start up, or you can remove the cold start valve from out of the inlet manifold and see if it is switching off correctly, but if you do remove the cold start valve it could rip / damage the gasket. You can do a similar thing as above and remove the connector plug off the Lambda sensor or coolant temp switch, again just to see if it makes a difference or not to the engines cold start up. This is what some of the Forum members have done just to rule out each possible error from some of the sensors in question, that relate to this cold start up problem. When starting your Corrado 2.0 16v from cold it'll idle at around 1150 RPM for 3 to 5 mins in really cold winter weather, and around 1 to 2 mins in mild weather and even less in the summer weather. Once the cold start program has switched off, your engine should then idle at 850 RPM. I've got a spare coolant temp switch if you want it, it still works and has done around 75,000 miles. The part number is ( V026 906 161 ) this is a 2 pin and has a 10mm diameter thread with 1mm thread pitch complete with washer. I don't want any money for it you can have it F O C, if you want it and if that is the problem with your current one. Basically the same as this one on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261233673855?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D261233673855%26_rdc%3D1 Hope this helps. Si

Just thought I'd add a few pics of my car and a couple of things I've done since I brought it. As it was when I got her. 15" steel wheels and a very leaky sunroof. Paint was bad where previous owner had taken the rubbing strips off. So I decided to refit t he strips. Got a moonroof from a B4 Passat saloon at the local scrap yard for £20. Spent a few hours fitting it the other day and getting it sitting right so it didn't leak. Picked up a set of TT Comps yesterday and fitted a badgeless grille I got off Ebay for £4 (still not sure I like it, might look better once I've colour coded it)

Dave vw still got roll bar vw bones no late head lights corradorestorer pmd vr pete ill get pic tommorw

Sorry to hear that mate, hopefully there is no lasting damage. Best of luck getting it sorted. I hope next time the scummers nick a lesser car and bin it into a huge tree very hard!!

The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB

sounds like its got air in it

Hey, This little project has been in the pipeline for several months now, and a few members on here already know of its existence. However been as though I'm about to take the plunge and rip my Corrado apart I thought I might as well start a thread detailing roughly whats going on. Firstly, some of you probably know my 8V. It was my first Corrado, I bought it in 2008 and spent a happy year owning, maintaining and improving it. I then sold it to a local guy and bought a VR6 which I also owned for a year. However, moving into my own place meant I needed to free up some capital so the VR6 had to go. The day the VR sold I saw my old 8V driving past with a 'for sale' poster in the window. I followed it back to the guys house and eventually struck a deal to buy it back. Result - some capital free'd up and I was still in a Corrado :) Here's the 8V (and the VR for good measure): There's something else though, while running the VR I also had a brief fling with a Mk2 Ibiza TDi (90bhp) which I bought cheaply for the missus to learn to drive in. It was a great car, nice and torquey but still great on fuel (55mpg +) and with plenty of tuning potential. I sold the Ibiza to Matt (Leonard) on here just before buying the 8V back, but even though I'd only owned it for a short amount of time it had planted the seed of an idea in my head, here's a picture: Soooo...where was I...oh yeah, inspiration. I bought the 8V, ran it for a while and in September 2010 my Dad decided that he didn't need the Discovery TDi that he was using as a daily and asked me to help him find a more practical daily driver with a similar internal capacity. 'Passat B4 TDi' sprang into my head as I'm slightly biased towards VW and I knew that they could be picked up cheaply in reasonable condition - so an eBay search ensued and not long afterwards I found a 150k Passat B4 GL TDi a couple of miles down the road, with FSH and 2 owners from new for £400. It was immediately purchased and my Dad was a happy chap. I was also a chap with a head full of ideas, as while researching for Passat information on the internet I'd discovered http://www.tdiclub.com - an American website devoted to the VW TDi range of engines. While having an innocent browse I'd also discovered a member called 'G60ing' who happened to have built two Corrado TDi's over in the states. Reading his build threads over on VWVortex led me to think more and more about the possibility of doing my own TDi conversion. More research, including finding 'Mikkijayne' on this forum and Vortex, led me to discover that the ideal donor vehicle for such a conversion into a Corrado is a Passat B4 TDi - exactly the vehicle I'd bought for my Dad! The B4 is ideal because it is essentially a Corrado in all the bits that matter. The clocks are the same so are literally plug and play, the engine wiring loom is seperate from the headlamp loom (unlike the much more common Mk3 Golf TDi) and a lot of the other bits are a simple swap onto the Corrado, even as far as the fuel filter bracket on the O/S suspension turret. Further research led me to establish that the B4 GL TDi (not CL) was the one to go for, as that spec level featured the MFA as an optional extra, which I really wanted to retain on the Corrado. I established that if I could find a B4 GL TDi donor (with MFA) then pretty much everything would be a straight swap onto my Corrado, as they both run CE2 electrics so everything *should* work. About the same time as all of this was happening I had bought another Corrado VR6 which turned out to be a total rust bucket and potential moneypit. I soon decided that it wasn't worth trying to get back on the road and set out to break it. However, the widetrack running gear wasn't going anywhere as I decided my potential Corrado-8V-TDi would really benefit from being widetrack and therefore 5-stud, allowing a much wider range of wheels and of course the possibility of better, bigger brakes. So the VR6 unfortunately met a slightly sad end but parts of it are on probably 50 other Corrado's so its not all bad! Just after christmas my Dad asked me to help with the cambelt change on his B4, so round I went to help him do that... While working on it he happened to mention that the car was due for an MOT fairly soon and that it would need discs/pads/caliper rebuilds all round as the brakes were constantly seizing on. He knew all about my TDi plans and I asked him whether he'd be willing to let me buy him another B4 (in better condition but not necessarily a GL), so I could have his B4 as a donor vehicle. The long and short of it is that the answer was yes, I found him a really tidy B4 CL TDi in sherry pearl (the same colour as my Corrado!), and I ended up with his old B4 GL sat in my garage as a TDi donor 2 days after I'd finished breaking the VR6 and scrapped the shell :) Here's the MFA clocks with the MPG potential: So...my plan was this: Corrado 8V 1.9 TDi 1Z engine (90bhp - 142lb/ft as standard) Widetrack running gear front and rear Reconditioned suspension components 288mm brakes Mk4 rear calipers There are quite a few things to do apart from just dropping the engine into place. Firstly I have had as many of the widetrack suspension components and 288mm brakes blasted and powdercoated black (thanks Mark and Dave!): I've also been thinking about lots of other things, such as enlarging the fuel filler neck (diesel fuel nozzles are bigger!), fitting a front mounted intercooler and pipework as the Passat one doesn't fit at all, sorting out fuel lines, ensuring that the exhaust will work ok and of course making sure the engine bay and inner bulkhead is suitably soundproofed - I don't want a rough, unrefined car. Then there's the tuning potential. Advice from tdiclub.com pointed me in the direction of the AFN engine, which is a 110bhp lump fitted with a VNT (variable vane) turbo as standard. They were fitted to the Galaxy/Sharan/Passat B5/Audi A4/Seat Toledo and a few other models and they will work quite nicely with the Passat B4 engine loom. However they are £500+ on eBay and I couldn't justify that. So more research established that the AHU (Mk3 Golf, Mk2 Ibiza) engine (90bhp, no VNT) is an AFN in every way apart from the lack of VNT. I looked for AHU's and they fetch about £200 - even better. Then I looked at the difference between the AHU engine and the 1Z as fitted to my donor B4 and found out that there really isn't much difference between them at all - 3lb/ft and a small amount of difference to the internals. I decided that the best thing to do would be to get the conversion running and then worry about tuning later on - however a set of injectors will see me at 120bhp from 90bhp with no other modifications so that'll do to begin with. Couple that with a VNT turbo, PD130 inlet manifold, a remap and a couple of other small modifications and I should see 150-160bhp with approaching 300 lb/ft of torque which I think would be plenty for a daily driver. One final modification that I'm planning on doing while the conversion takes place is an upgrade to the later type ABS system thats fitted to the Passat. Its made by ATE and basically gets rid of the annoying ABS ECU (it's integrated into the pump) and the even more annoying rear brake compensator valve. The ABS sensors are the same as the Corrado and the bracket that mounts it to the bulkhead is even the same - job's a good'un! I'm planning on replacing all of the brake pipes anyway so it makes sense to quickly fit the new ABS system while I'm at it. Wiring should be fairly simple too as the Corrado and Passat are essentially the same in the wiring department. I took the Corrado off the road at the end of February in readiness for the conversion and happened to buy the old Ibiza back from Matt to use as a daily while I carry out the conversion - it all worked out rather well really! I think that's about everything, hopefully you're not bored to death reading about it by now!! This weekend just gone I set about removing the engine from the Passat, which was nice and straightforward: The Passat will be weighed in this Saturday coming (2nd April) and then the Corrado will be coming home as I've got the next week booked off ready to do the majority of the work. I'll also be replacing the heater matrix and a few other bits and bobs while I'm at it. I think thats about it - plenty more to come but its going to be done for Stanford Hall on the 1st May, that is my self enforced deadline and I really don't like missing deadlines ;) Thanks for reading, keep an eye out for more updates Tom

Last year I replaced all brake pipes right up to the ABS unit under the bonnet. The only original pipes are now under the bonnet (ABS to master cylinder etc.). I got all the bits from http://www.automec.co.uk. I bought their "Universal Light" flaring tool I think it was, which was around £100 but it's a lovely piece of equipment which makes great beautiful flares on your pipes. It's a lot of money but even if I only used it once it's paid for itself. You can get hand-held flaring tools much cheaper but in my experience, the force needed to make excellent flares is too great for a hand held tool. The Automec flaring tools are used in a vice. Hand held tools allow you to do a pipe in situ though, but I don't think that's really necessary or advisable. I bought the normal copper pipe from them. Some people prefer the copper nickel as opposed to the standard copper as it's harder, but that just makes it much harder to bend, so I opted fro the standard copper. It's advisable to get a bending tool too from the same website, as although you can easily bend copper by hand, there are places you'll want a tight bend. Their basic bending tool isn't very expensive. You may want to also buy the deburring tool to clean up the cut pipe. Oh yes, you'll need a pipe cutter too. I got one from a website that a guy on here started I think. The name escapes me, but any adjustable copper pipe cutter will do. I think B&Q even sell them. My original brake pipes failed the MoT and I'm actually glad the guy did it. I really like the MoT guy who does my car. He really likes the car, squeezes us (me and my dad) in to his schedule when he recognises the car on the phone and doesn't fail it on trivia that you can't prove otherwise. When I saw the pipes I was actually shocked. Also, my brake hoses were bulging at points. If you're going to replace your brake lines and your hoses are old too, then I would just get the full set of 6. I got mine from GSF but others prefer Goodridge braided hoses. Incidentally, you've got virtually no chance of removing the unions from the old pipe anyway, as they will be corroded on. The best way to remove the old pipes is with bolt cutters. Try to catch the fluid with newspaper. Fitting the new pipes around the car is surprisingly easy. Some bits are a bit tough because you have to get it behind heat shields for the exhaust, but be systematic and it's no problem. You may have to use cable ties to secure them to places as the original plastic clips will likely have broken off. It's a good idea to 'seal' the brake reservoir with cling film, then put the lid on as this helps to minimise leakage and prevent the complete emptying of the system. Another tip is to make a sort of plug with one of your new unions and a hammered down small piece of copper pipe (flared at the union, obviously) and place this temporarily in the ABS unit for the particular pipe you are replacing. This again helps to minimise leakage and air ingress. You need to watch with the unions, as most are the standard M10 male unions for German cars, but one of them is an M12. I'm not quite sure why this is but I think it's to ensure that you fit the pipes back in the same order. So you'll need to buy M10 unions and a couple of M12 (if you want to make an M12 temporary plug too) unions from Automec. All in all, I replaced all four brake lines right back to the ABS unit, all new brass unions (lovely quality), bought a brake flaring tool, cutter, bending tool and deburrer, with new copper pipe and new flexible hoses for probably around £150-170. Something like that. Most of the cost is the tools, but you'll always have them. Also, when you make the flares up, take care to make the right one. VWs use what I think they call a single flare, whereas the tool can make single or double. Basically, just read the instruction carefully and compare your flare with those on the original pipes and you can't go wrong. It's very important to remove burrs though before flaring as they WILL leak if you don't do this. Oh, another thing. You will likely want to replace the brake pressure compensation valve which is attached to the rear suspension and reduces braking pressure on the rear as the car tilts forward (to prevent rear wheel lock under heavy braking). Mine was original and was totally gubbed and just about seized. If you're replacing all your pipes then just get a new one of these. They are not that expensive if bought on the Internet. Be careful to note which pipes went where (there are two inlets and two outlets). After bleeding the air out, check very carefully for fluid leaks. New fluid is harder to see because it's clean. I had a very minor leak which was cured by tightening it up. I was worried about over tightening them and deforming the flare. Just remembered, you might want to get a brake pipe spanner. I'd buy one from Halfords for this. The Automec one is very cheap and not really up to it. One more thing, the hardest bit with the fronts is probably getting it through the sidewall of the engine bay. There's a rubber grommet that you need to remember to put on the pipe BEFORE doing the final flare. Likewise you need to remember to put the unions on the pipe BEFORE doing the last flare, otherwise you'll need to cut the pipe again to get them on! Aligning the pipe through to the engine bay, with this grommet such that it doesn't rub and follows the rough path of the old pipe can be tricky. Lasty(!) the size of pipe is 3/16".