_Matt_

Epic, another one have the full works 🙂 Money pit indeed - i should change my thread title to that too.

Haha yes! Mine was re done yesterday. He got it out without damage and although it rained heavy last night it did not leak. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

No that was me! We've both had bad luck with our screens. In my case the fitter said he'd put a rubber block at the point it cracked so luckily for me he's fitting me a new one for free but I still have the same hassle as making sure my paint is repaired before the new one goes in (as i've had a full repaint too!)

There are few that come now and again but now these cars are 25+ years old it might be worth looking at any VR6 and go on condition. It's possible to get a better spec'd VR6 than a storm and your colour choices open up too.

😄 Well as it is a storm and some folk get excited by them I think it will do better than you'd expect for a 200k car. We can't see much evidence of work done and I've just had a look at the MOT history - minor advisories every year. Personally I would keep on top of them and aim for a clean sheet as the MOT is the minimum standard of repair for our cars.

Thanks Dox. Keyo - 738 miles. Factory fresh indeed - I wonder what people do with tem all these years to not want to use them.

Will be interesting to see what happens with this one for us folk with higher mileage but very well cared for cars. https://www.historics.co.uk/buying/auctions/2020-12-12/cars/ref-1-1995-volkswagen-corrado-storm-dg/

Do like these Gamma units. Keyo - did you happen to notice if the Gamma 4 has an output from an Amp/Sub? I fancy putting something on the left handside of the boot to give a bit more oomph to the sound. Just a nice to have really. I only really listen to the radio to be fair.

The fitter came out and looked at it today and to be fair he was a nice bloke and has fitted a lot of them in past for a local VW garage back in the day. The screen has cracked on one of the rubber blocks he used so he's getting me a new screen and fitting it. Bad luck I think

Well mine was fitted by Jay and Rob windscreens and I'd avoid them. Mine cracked down the middle as soon as I drove it and is leaking on the left hand corner. I did ring master auto glass but they wouldn't supply non trade. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

That looks a good effort Si. I'm hoping to learn fab skills on my Mk2 once i've got my garage built. I want to get the green corrado road worthy and at my house (stored 260 miles away as i was moving house) and have found a place local to where the car is to sort it. Waiting list to early next year though sadly.

You're right there Cressa. There is a great place called wheels in motion but it is a bit of trek from me. Someone else gave me a tip to turn the steering lock to lock, count and note positions and then turn it back to centre. I found the steering wheel seems to off centre following this. I also took the car for a long run up some a roads today and found the steering settles off centre naturally, so any cambers have me steering much more to the right to counter. I think I've concluded the wheel isnt mounted straight and needs taking off and repositioning. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi all, Looking to dip into the cumulative knowledge here. Not the corrado but my mk4 golf. I dont think we have a general non corrado tech section - please mods move if so - thanks. I've had two alignments done at separate places and a clean sheet MOT. New suspension all round, new bushes up front except for the drivers side ball joint. New tyres all round and new discs and pads... ..but none of this has solved an issue where the car positively wonders left when steering straight. I have to put noticeable right steer light pressure on the steering wheel to track straight. It is camber related but more aggressive than what you'd normally expect. At slow speed - say sub 10mph it is fine and steers straight. I've also noticed when I release pressure from counter steering the pull there is a very very gentle wobble on the steering wheel as it goes back to 12 o clock position. I get no wheel balance like wobble at any speed, tyres are new. I should change that ball joint but would that cause an alignment issue? What else can I check? Cheers Matt Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

HI, Gathering bits for my 16v corrado. I understand from research the battery tray panel is NLA (part no 535 803 093). What are people doing for replacements - would the mk3 or mk2 panel fit? Thanks, Matt

Mine are like this as well. B12 kit, new bushes etc. Seems fine but dont know what causes them to rise a bit over stock suspension. Had the same on a mk4 golf where I installed bikstein b4 shocks and h&r springs - 5mm gap. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yeah i was fearing the worst too! My OBDelevan connected today so guess it was a bluetooth issue or something. Car is going back to the bodyshop, they're going to tack weld the handbrake (must hvae come off whilst loading) and they're going to get it MOTd for me as well. No hard feelings with my bopdyshop they've gone above and beyond. Just bad luck on on old cars.

All fixed. It was the crank sensor. My original bosch one was clearly bust as I replaced it with a cheapo topran version i had kicking about she's running. The engine was noisey and took an hour to quiten down fully but we're back to the smooth VR6 sound now. Thanks everyone for the help! Matt

Thanks fla, hopefully I'll get some to look at this before it goes back today. My relay 109 is good but defo a good shout to pull the plugs. The car has stood for a while and people have tried to start it multiple times.

Just an update really. Got soaked. I think the ECU is OK. Clean contacts and i am getting 12v the the coil and maf. There are loads of new parts on this car, inc the coil which has a heat spacing plate installed too. The fuel pump is new and the injectors are refurbed. I'm going back to the crank sensor in my mind. I have two sensors. One is a topran which I bought before I had all the engine work done when trying to solve the warm start issue and the original bosch one (currently installed). How can you test the crank sensor with a multimeter? The plug doesn't allow you to back probe it with the multi. I guess the sparks could be gunked but again they are 2 years old but less than 1000 miles use on them. Air lock in the fuel rail? Fuel pours out from the fuel pipe at the rail on disconnecting. Humphhhh. Not quite the exciting reunting with my car. The plan was to reinstall the interior and get it MOTd and finally enjoy it. But nope. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yeah the SWG definitely needs the oem cover over the cabin vent thingy - water just pours into it from the swg. As for the ECU ill take a look tomorrow. The car hasn't been outside until yesterday but the issue was there before hand. It could be a crusty ecu connector as the car has been laid up since Feb, last run 2 months ago when it blew off the baffle box. Crank sensor is a culpritt for baffle box explosions. But I have swapped mine out for another bosch part. Could also be faulty. But not being able to read the engine module go me thinking ecu. Hope not as it is remapped by stealth but we shall see.

Thanks guys, updated my other thread and took your advice. Fuel pump is good but car still not wanting to fire. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks guys! Yes that is my setup too. The noise I was hearing was then central locking pump. I've now tested the fuel pump and stuck a 100 relay in 167 and am getting fuel the rail. No signs of starting though. I havent got a spare spark plug to test spark. Worryingly my computer will not connect to the engine module. I have a swg scuttle installed so need to get it off to get at the ECU to see if its corroded etc. For now though we a house move 2 weeks away the car is being sent back to the bodyshop. Unfortunately when the swg was installed the rain guard above the cabin air duct was thrown out so water has entered from there. Fortunately the car is stripped interior wise. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yeah i popped it on there before i had all thre engine work done. I used to have a warm start issue which it resolved! I've been out messing again and rigged up a bit of pipe to the pump. The pump is a vdo item only a year old and its making lots of noise. I've come to the conclusion the car is out of fuel! The tank was dropped with the work done. The bodyshop put some in but i am hoping there is a certain amount thst needs to be put in for the the pump to pick up. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi, Following on from other thread about check valves... my fuel pump is running constantly. Key doesn't have to be in the ignition - I don't remember this being a feature of the car! It has just come back from the bodyshop. I'm aware a constantly running pump coulld be a fried ECU but plan to check earths first. Any tips or past experiencs would be great to hear! Cheers Matt

Hi Guys, Has anyone got the link (or knowledge) to which pipe the one way valve (mod) is installed on the fuel pump area? I want to check mine has gone back together right. It's currently installed on the outward flow to the engine but I thought it was meant to be installed on the return pipe to the pump. I can't remember how I installed it. Car won't start..