_Matt_

Thanks Micky that is fine I will take :) Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi, Could I grab this if it is still available? Front grille 16V Badge silver black - 535853679C - £30 Thanks, Matt

Hi, I'm after a dragon green drivers door in good condition (no rust please). Thanks, Matt

Ahh yes I remember those Renault 19s. It was quite a rare car when I was starting to drive (2000). I didn't get to have a go in one but a friend had a Clio 1.8 16v which went well and sounded nice. I'm not sure why I didn't get into French cars as they were light, nimble in the corners and sounded nice. Much like what attracts me to older VWs now modern cars are so oversized. I had Vauxhalls as my first cars, don't laugh, but 3 Corsas in succession. I started off with a new 1.0 because I got free insurance, then an older raw 1.4 SRI 16v with no PAS or electric windows and then a 1.6 16v which was slower than the 1.4 and rubbish compared to my mates saxo vts & pug 106 GTI. I kept buying them as I worked on them myself and knew my way around them. Like Sean says above I lusted after a mk2 Astra GTE and the digi dials but couldn't justify an older car back (oh how times have changed) and tried instead to buy an Astra mk3 GSI but ended up with a Cavalier 2.5 V6 as the insurance was cheaper. I still have a soft spot for Carltons and Senators, my Dad had a couple.

And I like how the glass roof is described as a rare part. Basically the original broke so it was changed out and if you were to use the tin roof with that mech installed you'd have to manually pull back and close the interior blind.

Whaaat that's pretty high already. Most people run for the hills with high miles (not me though). As for being worth 6k I'm going to err on the side of caution and wouldn't put my money there. It isn't the milegae that puts me off it's the following items -rusty wing and bootlid -underside doesn't look like it has had any attention so will need some tlc. We can't see the sill around the front jacking point. -too many barry mods - ram air, sticker, green HT leads. -no evidence of chains being sorted -the presented service history stopped 15 years ago. If it was home serviced that is fine but it would make sense to present that. oh and edit to add - paint flake around the front suspension turrets must be an engine out job to sort properly before they rust.

Ouch indeed but 20 wheel and tyre packages - almost enough for something different every day of the month!

Quality efforts and the new paint looks great. I had wondered where you build thread was but now I know! Definitely seems the way forward stripping the car and putting it back together yourself. I only did the interior on mine but next time i hope to have a house with the space to strip it back to the shell pre-bodyshop. All the best and sorry to hear about the alloy wheel. Matt

Good tip by Sean - I had these issue too but eibach sent out free replacements via the supplier i bought the kit from (larkspeed).

Yeah that would be great - Goldfinger do you have details on where you got it from? I think I am a similar-ish area to you - Hertfordshire? I've also given the details to my bodyshop to pass on to their glass man - maybe i can get it that way. Cheers Matt

Thanks guys, I've tried ringing them but trade only 😞

Fla - I've got a dark blue tin panel you can have whilst testing to save yours getting damaged. You're Middlesex based right? I'm Potters Bar (formely Middlesex county in days gone by haha). I've got this job to do (have all the bits to rebuild the corrado mech). I had fitted a B4 Passat moonroof and Mk3 Mech before hand. It worked well but there was too much gap between moonroof panel and the roof vs the original tin one for my liking.

I think you've found the perfect wheel there with Japan Racing - nice dish, split rim style and customisable offset. One day maybe for me, got an expensive year with the respray and I'm hoping to buy a set of black leather seats once the bodywork jobs starts in earnest too so that's 2020 spent on the Corrado.

Nice I have that suspension setup on my car (pics in my thread). Do checkout the rear springs, I bought through Larkspeed who were great at getting exchange sets out within a couple of weeks directly from Eibach. As Keyo said the ones ended 2002HA are the right ones. Suprisingly the onces supplied in the kit are a good inch shorter than the replacements and 2 inches shorter than stock. I'd guess the rears supplied in the kit are suppsed to go with the 50mm lowering springs eibach offer rather than the 20-25mm that's supposed to be with the b12 kit. The suspension kit once setup is great though, initially I found it harsh but subsequently have had all my bushed replaced and the ride is now great. The rear beam bushes made a huge difference to softening suspension response - those dips between concrete sections on motorways have gone from a harsh jarring feel to a hushed thump.

Ahhh haha cool l! My parents had an MGB GT too, but sadly sold it when I was 6 months old. Very disappointed in their lack of commitment!!

Mmmm sounds nice, I like them with the gt3 kit. I've gone the other way with my interests at the moment. Fancy an old MG or Triumph and want to learn welding.

Good news on getting the engine rebuild Keyo, look forward to seeing progress. I reckon you'll be looking at 235-242 BHP ( i don't know why so accurate but 1 or 2 BHP is a lot on an NA engine so felt i should be in my guesses). Get a video of it on the rolling road,🙂 I made 220 with just cams, map and top end rebuild so with your shriek i reckon you'll be at least +15 to 22BHP extra. Sounds a nice combo with 268s and the shriek. I've got 263s but as Vince mentioned they're better for stock manifold. Fen - you're looking at 400 for 263s 300 for a remap, 400 for a top end refurb and 900 for chains and clutch. Or you could just go for the chains. My car lasted to 150k on original chains but the tensioner was in bits.

Just an update. Managed to strip the interior before it got dark. Water on the passenger side and likely to be from under the windscreen somewhere. I need to get that black plastic trim along the base of the windscreen next but need to figure out how - 2 screws at each side and prise off the clips securing the body is as far as I can see. Luckily no rust etc on floor pan.

Cheers - did not know about the wiper feature- excellent! Keyo I haven't got my head around the scuttle area yet. I've run a hose down the windshield and seen water running from the bottom of the wing. I'll look for the the area Rob mentions. I have bought a 3 quid gasket seal or somewhere in the scuttle area with the door rubbers from heritage too. The plastic along the base of the windscreen, with wipers mounted through, has a small crack in the middle. I shall start parking nose down - hadn't thought drainage is more designed that way because of the electrics.

Hi, Thought I'd solved my problem as was getting water in the cabin from the sunroof drains being overloaded since fitting a B4 moonroof and mk3 mech (the sound deadening material had dropped into the drainage channels, partially blocking them). Thought I'd have a check on things today as my alarm kept going off but still have problems with my sieve, sorry Corrado. My interior is still partially stripped as the car is off to the bodyshop for a respray soon so semi easy for a nose around. Carpet and front seats are still in situ though. I park my car nose up on my drive, and the drive is such that the car leans slightly so the drivers rear side is the lowest point. I have water collected in my passenger rear footwell and inside both the rear sills at the back. My car has been sitting (not driven really recently) without it's passenger side door card or membrane. I have today popped this membrane back on. So i guess this could have been some of the issue. I've ordered oem replacements for the door aperture seals, I had replaced these with non-oem equivalents recommended on here a couple of years back which also might be causing the problem. What else can I look at? I can't work out how water is getting inside the inner sills and travelling back if not the door seals. - Could they be rotten at the front and collecting water as it drains down from the scuttle? - I don't think the inner floor pan has any drain points to the inner sills? - I'm guessing as my alarm started tripping maybe water is leaking from the scuttle area into the cabin and getting my electrics upset - where are the gromets etc into the cabin in the scuttle area? I've also noticed my intermittent wiper setting is operating more frequently than normal too. - I guess it could be rotten metal around the base of the windshield (that's coming out as well for the respray). Any other areas I should be checking? I need a garage for this car. The car cover has now gone back on.

Yup thats what I did. My multimeter showed varying resistence as the plunger was pushed back and forth (0 to 1).

100% agree with you there. Especially when most of us into cars can get a bit obsessive at making them just right only to be disappointed you can't get new parts and mostly end up with 25 year old bits at extortionate prices vs equivalent new bits for other old VWs.

Hi, Has anyone got an ingenious ideas or solutions to make OEM style mounting tabs for the headlights to the slam panel? Mine have both broken and someone has used universal metal brackets but would be nice to have something more consistent with the originals. Something 3d printed maybe. Cheers Matt

Cheers Keyo, I've had quite a few offers on Facebook within minutes, I thought this would be a lot harder to source!

Cheers Guy, yeah I think I will be struggling too. I've got a couple but they arent great compared to mine. VW classic parts do the quarters but they are 550+ each!!