_Matt_

Where is the best place to buy the damper box? Everywhere I look is out of stock. What’s the deal with getting rid of it?

What sort of idle symptons are people seeing - mine hunts (can't see on the tacho but can feel it in the cabin). VAG-COM live readings say it idles between 640-680RPM. Sort of every second or two it drops 40RPM and recovers. When driving it seems to sort itself out and I don't notice flat spots. I shall check out the 3 things mentioned in fendervg post (ISV, vac leaks and the airbox to TB plastic). Is carb cleaner OKAY to spray around vac hoses when searching for leaks? Edit to add - just went out and inspected - my black suitcase damper box thing attached to ISV makes a bit of racket - in fact when I put my hand over it I can feel air at the seems. Need it get it off an inspect. Maybe this is of some use to other hunting idle issues. Part number: 021 133 429 A Cheers Matt

I think you've made the right choice out of the original selection (they were a bit small I thought). The 308 is a better size for your commute and should prove more economical than the Passat and without the worry of repairs looming as I guess you just want hassle free motoring. The 1600 diesel also lives in small commerical vans covering massive miles and with your 25-30k it will be doing as it was designed. Hope all works out well!

I'm after the drivers front too - good job Jonny bumped the thread - had no idea someone was making them. My mechanic was going to make one out of copper... I'll msg you volksworld.

Bad time of year to sell, if you can hold on till spring you're more likely to get closer to the £6k. What's the mileage? Chains done? Seems well cared for and a bargain at the £4k currently advertised at.

I will have some pictures for you over the next week as getting Eibach springs and Bilstein B8 shocks fitted. Watch out on eibach springs - as said you need a different spring cup up front (as with most springs) and the rear eibach springs are sometimes incorrect (sits way to low) but eibach replace free of charge. See my build thread in members rides for details on this. I liked the eibach kit as it just drops the car 20-25mm so it looks more oem by today’s standards.

Welcome! Fire away and get yourself a members gallery going :) Lots of knowledgeable people on here and on the facebook site too.

R32 gets my votw for the noise and they don't make NA 6 cylinder cars like this anymore. Not seen a TFSI done but the 1.8 20vt has been done plenty of times but sure about how similar the tfsi and 20vt engines are size and gearbox mounting wise. Interesting project you have either way!

Sounds like a good place to start (and hopefully end) then. I have read somewhere but can’t find now that VW expected the injectors to need servicing at somepoint (100k?). So with that in mind it’s worth getting them looked at as part of maintenance anyway (that’s my logic anyhow!)

Where did you manage the find the seats in the end? I keep an eye on the facebook feeds and ebay but never see any. Tips appreciated.

Good work. You will end up with a car you know is right at the end of it. Stealth is well known and I would have thought having engine work done there will make the car worth more in the long run. The seat bolster can be repaired. Mine is frayed and had a quote for 80 quid to have repaired m. However I like you want leather or recaros!l so haven’t bothered!

Have you checked there's pressure in the fuel rail and the pump is priming on cold start? Easiest way to get an indication would be to whip a fuel line off (have a rag and something handy to catch any fuel) before starting it from cold. You should be hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on too. I have what I believe is a problem with my injectors but I don't have a cold start issue. Mine starts well when cold but takes many cranks when left for 20 mins after a drive. Having changed the coil, HT leads, sparks, cam sensor (fault code), crank sensor, fuel pressure reg, thermostat, the 3 sensors in the housing and the rad fan switch I'm still left with a warm start issue and a very slight occasional vibration at idle. My theory is my injectors are leaking so when I try to restart when warm there's too much fuel in the chambers and the air/fuel ratio is off. My theory also extends to the vibration at idle - too much fuel is dripping in. I've had a quote for 83 quid to have them checked and fixed via mrinjector. I have to extract them though.

Welcome, nice G60 - she looks "well used" but that's a good look too. I love the stance of the standard early cars (my late VR6 sits waay to high!)

Only just seen your thread Jared. Seems you are having terrible luck :( I see your dilema on the engine as it's low mileage and original. You're also part way through some of the work with I assume Stealth (no experience with them but have heard they are the dogs danglies with the VR6). Best option would be whether Stealth have any alternative options such as sourcing another engine and then you weighing up the pros and cons with that information as well. Some of the £6k needs doing anyway and isn't related to the engine. If you find it's only a extra £1k to get your original engine sorted (it's about £3k at Stealth right, the other 3k is for other work?) vs say £2k to get a another unknown engine fitted then it might be worth the punt? I always compare repair costs back against the cost of leasing a new car and having nothing to show for it at the end when I am feeling down about spending money on old cars: £6K isn't even a years motoring, inc. down payment on something mildly interesting. Does it need a full respray? Looks good from the photos aside the small issues. That said I recently spent 2K at the body shop having a few rust spots sorted and a new boot lid vs a full respray @ £3-4k it seems better value to go for the respray. Good luck with the project(s).

haha yes it probably is overpriced! I wonder if they'll ever be worth stronger money. Makes spending £xxxx on bodywork repairs more paletable.

Good to hear Phil. I've just swapped my sensor out and my issues are fixed too. Phew!

It was alright, nice to see a Corrado on TV. Almost the same as mine except it's Alpine and not Candy white. Didn't get much noise! Interestingly that's the Corrado that's been on sales at Fast Classics for ages http://www.fast-classics.com/cars/vw-corrado-vr6-3-for-sale/ At least they're making some money out of it.

I'm in the process of doing this job myself - I've bought both types of rad fan sensors as wasn't sure what I had whilst ordering at work. Both need a 29mm deep socket. Sadly I guessed and bought a 28mm DOH! I'm also having a fan issue - I've replaced my thermostat and all 3 sensors in the stat holder - my old stat was stuck open but now the car is running right i've found the stage 1 fan does not come on. Stage 2 comes on once temps get higher. Stage 1 does come on when I turn the ignition off (this works off information off the yellow sensor in the stat though). Whilst the car is running stage 1 is controlled via the rad fan sensor so I am hoping it will fix the issue. Sounds like yours might be similar but it's stuck reading a higher temperature so remains on! Fun times. Good luck with yours.

If you liked the Skoda (me too) what about considering the Karoq? More Q3 size and likely to get a better spec and engine vs the Q3 That said the Q3 is a nice car and that engine is powerful and efficient for a 1.4. You'll not have any diesel issues either.

That's a very good tip - I'm in a similar boat as the OP - want a black leather interior as no other colour will go with my white vr. I do know of a Green Storm with cream interior that's been on axle stands for the last 7 years in my inlaws village... hmmm.

Nice! I'm sure many 2.9's aren't producing their full allotment of horses anyway and I'd rather have a unused 2.8 over an unknown 20+ year old 2.9 anyday.

So how come Recaro's from other models, such as the Mk2 Golf or even the Proton Satria can't be modified to fit the Corrado? The seat's are much cheaper - I've seen Proton ones for £70 for both fronts for example https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-tuning-styling/proton-satria-gti-recaro-front-seats-/1211328570

Has anyone got a part number for the HELLA rad? Found this on ebay (£39) and the part number seems to reference the Corrado on others searches (8mk-376-714-641) https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-HELLA-Radiator-8mk-376-714-641-Top-German-Quality/1743890757?iid=112980559346&chn=ps&adgroupid=57952832318&rlsatarget=pla-469444319495&abcId=1139096&adtype=pla&merchantid=101727736&poi=&googleloc=9045983&device=c&campaignid=1464306441&crdt=0

Ahh thanks Sean. Sorry for late reply. Yes resonated feels like it is the way to go. I don't want a drone or anything that sounds harsh but want more sound on throttle and at idle. I just need to find some time to work on that car! Busy at the moment and the weekends are booked up. I also need a garage so I could be tinkering in the evenings. Don't fancy it out on the drive.

Thanks Hasan. Glad I posted on here. I’m now much clearer on how the roof operates and what I can do to fix. Thanks all.