_Matt_

Hey all, I see reviews of the Corrado and see people talking about how light the steering is. Mine isn't light at all, it's definitely assisted somewhat and I car hear the pump on full lock but requires effort to turn compared to modern cars - mostly noticed when turning into side streets. I've eyeballed the fluid, looks clean and doesn't smell burnt or anything. Just wondering what's normal. Car has had an alignment but I feel it needs a general bushing replacement and have noticed one of my drop links is split. Just mentioning as don't know if tired bushes would cause stiffer steering. Cheers, Matt

Hi all, I haven't installed a new headunit for years. Last time I did it (Vauxhall Corsa!) I remember it all being plug and play, perhaps I had to buy an adapter for the plug to the car. I know I want DAB and bluetooth this time round and have the original Sony stereo currently in situ with original wiring. I've narrowed my choice down to this unit (must have LED option for green lighting): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kenwood-Electronics-KMM-BT504DAB-Bluetooth-receiver-Black/dp/B078SLHVJH Since I have my headlining out for retrimming (that job is now done) I bought and installed a new bee-sting DAB aerial. The aerial has FM, DAB and 12v power leads to install. Couple of questions before I pull the trigger and buy the head unit - - I can't see a DAB aerial port on the back of the unit in the pictures - does it instead locate on the connection harness? - Do I need to buy any adapters for the wiring? - I need a perm live (ideally switching on and off with the unit) to power the aerial, just so I am double sure which colour is it? I will test with multimeter. Please let me know if there is a better way to power the aerial! Cheers, Matt

Plus it’s easier to convert a 4cyl car to a 20vt vs a vr6. I’d probably pop another VR (12 or 24v) in mine if the worst happened. I do have a hankering for a 16v on throttle bodies though. Would probably source it in a golf or Seat Ibiza to have something diff to the corrado though. I don’t care for out right speed these days - all engines in the corrado have enough for fun on our roads.

Yeah seen a few YouTube vids - guys in wales can covert anything. If I recall it was about half the price for a fiat 500 conversion. I’d really miss the noise of a petrol engine though.

Only a matter of time before we see our classics going electric ⚡️

20vt is a good shout. Modern engine in a well sorted analogue car.

To be honest, if I won the lottery, I’d take a g60 and 16v and love them all. I went for the vr purely because I’ve been subject to 4 cylinder cars for years and I like the noise. Equally I like the supercharger whine and 16v howl. I don’t think I’d have regretted any purchase but knew I wanted more cylinders, irrational or not. At the age the cars are they’ll need bodywork and a 16v might be the right choice to keep it going. A string of bodywork bills followed by chains or a supercharger might be enough to push you over the edge.

VR6 for me, or a G60 but felt 4 cylinder forced induction wasn't that special these days and big +6 cylinders are a dying breed.

Oh and any advice on anything else it might make sense to change/inspect at the same time would be great too. The car has just had new shocks, springs and top mounts. Cheers

Ouch! Yes i did the same and popped the box on my "spares" shelf!

Hi all, Noticed a bit of play on the 12/6 o'clock test + a torn boot on the the ball joint. One of my control arm bushes looks a bit cracked too so I've seen some Febi Bilstein control arm + ball joint assemblies for circa £67 ea and plan to replace myself. Does that sort of price sound alright? Gaining confidence working on the car but haven't done this job before. I have tools, including an impact wrench & torque wrench. On reading I've seen it's advisable to jack both sides up when replacing a ball joint - is this necessary if replacing control arm and ball joint as a ready assembled unit? Reason I ask is because my drive way is slightly sloped and it's easier to jack one side at a time. As far other stuff - is it just a couple of bolts on the body/sub frame and off it will drop? Any advice on torque settings? Cheers, Matt

Installed the JP MAF today (cheers Keyo for link) and it continues to idle perfectly. It did after cleaning the Bosch one to be honest but had already purchased a replacement. Also notice no surging while cruising (this was very subtle) and it's less snappy on off throttle. Win! On to the next job.

Got mine too, looks great. Yet to get a pic of it fitted. Good spot and hopefully keep the area dryer.

Good work Tam. Unfortunately I don’t know if any panels. Maybe stick it on the Facebook site for additional traffic too? Seems silly a panel such as the wing, that’s in prime position to get damaged or rusted is not available and could end up writing off or aesthetically destroying an otherwise clean car.

CHeers Jim. Oddly the car seems to be behaving much better most of the time since the work (mostly just cleaning). I did have a go at popping all the electrics on and idle seems fine. I think i am left the characteristic very very very slight lumpy idle. I’ve got some injector cleaner to run through but if it remains as is I’ll be happy.

Epic I'll send you a msg - my 3 key situation may end soon!

Thanks for links Keyo :) I believe I do have a very minor exhaust leak up front, notice it once the engine is warmed up. Planning a stainless system for it at some point so quietly ignoring the problem at the mo! I've tried the injector cleaner but I suppose a more concentrated mixture wouldn't hurt.

Thread revival... have you guys got any left? I need to a door lock and boot lock? thanks!

Okay managed to spend some time working through the list. 1. MAF cleaned and tested with multi-meter - think it is okay - I'm seeing a reading fluctuating between 0.85v to 0.9v on idle. There is a perm 12v source to the MAF as well. 2. Took of TPS and sprayed electrical contact cleaner on it. 3. Carried out ECU reset procedure and read the basic settings, after driving it is a little better on idle. 4. Took all my vacuum lines off, inc. carbon canister and inspected carefully for cracks. No problems there. 5. Plugged in my OBD11 device and monitored the live readouts (there are no engine fault codes): - I found my idle speed sits mostly at 680 rpm but drops to 640 and up to 720 rpm every couple of seconds. - Coolant temp is good - steady 87 degrees - Lambda value fluctuates around 1.0 which I think it normal. Things I am not sure about: - Injector timing is 3.3 to 3.7ms. I've seen references it should be around 1.5ms reading around forums? - The EGR temp jumps between 182 degrees to 217 degrees centigrade every 1 second (I didn't think I had an EGR valve and maybe this is coming from the O2 sensor?) - The timing should be +-1 degree of 6.0. Mine jumps 4.5 to 6.8 So I think maybe something is wrong, although it did get better following the ECU reset procedure. Just thinking out aloud - if the temps are coming from the o2 sensor perhaps it is over fuelling due to a bad injector, which probably points to why it's backing off the timing to 4.5 degrees every second too. - Motor mounts are worn and letting too much vibration through. If the numbers above look normally this could be a possibility. Any other ideas :D Thanks, Matt

Thanks for the link! Yes I normally prefer known brand parts but where I’m replacing like this on whim I’m prepared to take a punt. The Bosch MAF’s are too much for me @ ~£200 so the one in the link is more a normal price for MAF imo.

No error codes currently, but then OBD1 isn’t that great for error reporting. Before I delve into taking out the injectors (had a quote @ £85 from Mr Injector) I’m going to try: 1. Clean the MAF and TPS sensors (I didn’t do this when I cleaned the TB and ISV) with electrical contact cleaner. 2. Vacuum leak check again, especially under the airbox 3. Multimeter 5v testing of the sensor plugs 4. the ECU reset 5. See if I can run a TB recalibration via VCDS although believe what I have read is for OBDII cars. 6. Fuel pressure test at the rail 7. Injectors 8. Chalk it up to experience and pay a professional…. But I am enjoying the troubleshooting at the moment. The issue does smooth itself out and gets worse occasionally. Makes me think it’s a sensor dying. Equally vacuum leak is high on the cards as the problem is only at warmed up idle (and not during the higher cold start idle).

Thanks for the reply :) I haven’t performanced the ecu reset actually. I’ll try this. I normally just let it adapt itself over time, but the battery has been disconnected during the work. The idle isn’t terrible like you see in some of the videos online. You can’t really hear it in the exhaust note but do hear a subtle clatter in the engine bay as it corrects itself and the vibration in the cabin is similar to the one you get when you don’t give it enough gas when releasing the clutch. I’ll pay some more attention to the vacuum lines. Is there a DIY technique to follow to fine these leaks? I’ve tried spraying carb cleaner to no avail. Must admit I haven’t given much attention to the lines running to the carbon canister though. Fuel injectors are a good call. I was suffering from some warm starting issues which could be linked to leaky injectors as well, however since installing a one way valve from the pump outlet it’s been resolved. I don’t think it would hurt investing in a fuel pressure gauge as well.

Hi, Ugghhh, I've read threads and threads on VR6 idle issues and it feels like I've been hunting down this annoying issue ever since i've had the car. Can't see the tacho move on idle so relatively minor but you feel a vibration pulse through the cabin and when you've got your head in the engine bay you can hear and feel the engine lug and catch itself. It never stalls but it's giving me the sensation it wants to. I've stripped the throttle body, isv and re secured all vaccum hoses. No fault codes displayed via scanning. I cleaned the ISV with carb cleaner and lubed with gt40. On reassembly nothing has changed with the idle issue. When I disconnect the ISV the idle rises slightly and idle is smooth. However that might just be becuase it's not at 640 rpms anymore (it idles between 640-680 on vcds). When being drvien the engine is smooth. How does the ISV work? is it playing a role once the engine is warmed up? Maybe mine is goosed. It is the orignal unit but wasn't particularly dirty. All other parts on the throttle body are original and have the yellow paint markers from factory so I'm fairly confident the idle damper hasn't been messed about with. There are lots of other new parts whilst hunting down this issue and fixing others - coil pack, leads, FPR, fuel pump relay, new PCV, new cam and crank sesnors, new thermostat and sensors. Haven't touched the fuel pump, knock sensors or MAF. Can't think of much else that would affect it. The car drives fine hence why i've not done the pump or MAF... Any ideas... :D Thanks Matt

Good news! Sounds like it is worth doing the spraying yourself as it's usually a textured finish on the sills anyway :) Are we talking thousands for welding? Just interested if I ever have to do it myself. My Jacking points had some surface rust but it's been treated and sealed for now :|

Whilst doing some idle googling I came across this - maybe the wheels signify a special edition - The Jet 2 - they are pictured in the european publication below. Micky - how does the rest of your cars' spec compare? http://techniqueg60.com/index.php/forum-techniqueg60/le-corrado-g60-a-la-loupe/38-6-les-series-limitees-du-corrado-g60