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VEEDUBBED

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Everything posted by VEEDUBBED

  1. I checked this morning but unfortunatly i think it got binned..
  2. I sold him a set of foglights.. Yeah, i remember that it took him a while to answer a couple of messages. In the end he did though, he works with helicopters or charters them out i think because i used to get his webpage come through when he answered. Sound guy, i wouldn't worry Jim.
  3. I've got a set mate, later on i'll get you a few photos and send them. If you could give me your email i'll send the pics. straight off my phone. Cheers.
  4. I'll check later on and see if i still have a vr airbox somewhere.
  5. Great Oli, I keep forgetting that your RHD and all my spare Headlamps are for lHD cars..
  6. I'll have a look and see if i have any headlamps left.
  7. ...I told you Your gonna be in For weeks of fun..! I've got a spare fuel pump (O/E Bosch) and a spare fuel feed pipe but I sold the accumulator and surge tank last month.. Let me know if you need them, at least it's a start..
  8. When you say the abs system is kaputt, could you be more specific, how doesn't it work? Dash light on? brakes seized on? If so just get a set of cheap, used calipers. I'm asking because I also bought a 16v 9A years back that was sitting in a garage for 12 years and if I can help you or give you any advice just let me know. Good luck with the project.
  9. If only you where closer 16vmatt, I'm throwing out 2..
  10. The best but long way of removing them is to remove the actual glass panel From the door, a job within itself, thanks to the glass guide that's a bit Of a bugger to slide back in. The actual weather strip is removed by unhooking it From under the door frame, I find that a wallpaper scraper is great at starting the First bit up. Remember that most have been on the car for more than 20 years So it's gonna be a bit of a struggle. Remember to try and unhook the trim bit all the way along its entire length, that's why it's So much easier without the glass pane pushing against the trim. HTH.
  11. Well i had one, dam thing snapped as i tried to remove it.. Over to Tom, he'll sort you mate, much closer than me aswell.
  12. Let me check Tomorrow down in garage, maybe i have one spare still Attached to a few g60 PS Lines. I'll get back to you mate.
  13. Sorry Lee, I've only got a set of UK early versions left, all the rest are Euro lenses.
  14. That will disappear when you fit the mani and downpipe with grease coated gaskets.
  15. If the engine uses no oil, water has good compressions I'd leave it bill. You'd then have the extra cost of new head bolts, oil, antifreeze, gasket set, timing belt etc etc...
  16. Right, I just saw this Message now, i have also Got the indicator stalk, which Version though, early square Version or the rounder mk3 golf type? The headlamp lenses are all '89-'90 UK versions so no good, i do have complete headlamps though. I can't find the dam idle valve, again tomorrow morning I'll look again and get you photos of the stalks and headlamps.
  17. Afaicr, there should be an oring on the aluminium bracket. I don't remember what the hole was for though, it's been donkeys since i layed hands on a PG..
  18. Allright Bill, I much prefer the original 13mm self locking nuts used on old '90's Vauxhall astras, belmonts and the like than the o.e Vw 12mm nuts, apart from the fact that when you use a 13mm spanner you have more leverage compared to a 12mm spanner also the 12mm Vw ones round off easily too and the washer is already built into the 13mm nut, unlike the silly small Vw versions that fall off whilst your struggling to locate the buggers on the thin studs.. The 13mm have better clamp load too. Like i said before, if i have a few i'll send them down with the manifold and downpipe. By the way, all received this end mate. Give the gaskets a good clean and then coat all in copper grease, i always do this when turboing a valver and never had problems even with used gaskets. I'm about 1700 miles away from sunny Scotland matey, Rome, Italy.. As soon as i have the tracking number for your parcel ill let you know. Cheers.
  19. Difficult to say, probably just condensation. Does the car loose water? Smoke from the exhaust? Your engine block looks terrible, all bloody rust! At least when you get the manifold and downpipe it'll look better. Change those studs, they look horrid and whilst your in there get 10 new brass nuts, If I have enough I'll include them with the other bits. Those gaskets look as if the exhaust manifold was leaking a wee bit.. I'll give you a couple with the manifold, coat the nuts with copperease grease, that way you can reuse them next time, €8 bloody euro each new..
  20. Sounds good Dazz. Whilst your changing the filter, there is another thing you could do, apart from mechanicaly checking the actual fuel pressure with the car under full load, that's to grab a long bit of wire, speaker wire is fine, then using a cheap digital multimeter, connect the meter to the positive feed to the pump then connect the other ends to the meter and tape it onto the dash, go out for a spin and floor the car in third to see the actual voltage arriving at the fuel pump. Consider that crusty old wiring plays a huge part in robbing the pump of it's vital required volts, you'd be amazed at the difference between 11 and 12+volts.. I used to do this on old sierra cosworths that always had dodgy fuel pump wiring, difference was quite noticable in acceleration. Try it and let me know mate.
  21. Rare buggers to find with the nasty clip intact.. how much coin do you wanna spend?
  22. Start by changing the fuel filter Daz, simple stuff first mate. Change of plugs maybe? Ht leads good? Are all the rubber pipes good? Fpr pipe ok? Ht cap ect etc... Clean out the idle valve too mate.
  23. Yep, both bits that only had 33.000 Miles. Send me your email and ill get you some photos sent. Cheers.
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