Supercharged

Yeah not sure you can buy it seperatly dude but a new screw comes with one and it also has some sealant on it - fiver from VW

The VW stuff since G12 lasts years though although I'd still change it every 4... I really would use the proper stuff as it's not expensive, Stealth have seen several VR6 engines that are basically scrap metal because of alloy corrosion due to the wrong coolant being used.

Exactly ss above - sounds like a failing battery

Arse! Could undo the 2 10mm bolts on the slave and remove it to have a look at and test... pedal should move freely then

Hmmm - are you sure they replaced it?? New ones should be alloy and not painted. You can't really fit it wrong so might be something up with the clutch fork or release bearing - probably best to take it back to whoever did the clutch.

Send them back if less than a year old

Check fuse 21 It may not work if an alarm cuts power to it but should do as standard with ignition off

Pedal wouldn't go down?? That sounds more mechanical than hydraulic, Bleeding is easy either manually or even better with an eezibleed kit but it would have been done recently when the slave was changed...

Must be Fuel pump relay if not priming, I'd replace this and do the ECU one at the same time.

Yep, Master Technician only but most big dealers have one now...

Pump may have overheated - check the fuse... New pumps are £10 ish from VW or Halfords etc

Hmmm... Apart from a slight bit of seepage which went away I've not had a problem with them but I have heard the knobs aren't as good as they once were :( I'm thinking of using www.knobfixdirect.net.uk.com for all my future knobbing needs - any one had any experience with these bunch of knobbers? Walesy, have you got the January copy of 'Know your Knob'? got my subscription thru yesterday and there is a very good article titled 'Detailing your Knob after giving it a good polish' by none other than our fellow knob fanatic KevHaywire!

Slightly bigger ports on the later one I think - the head changed at the same time roughly and so did the gaskets.

*Coooouuuughhh*

Yep, it has to be a VR Jim, you'll never be happy with anything else! As for your current car - it's hardly a project! thats had just about everything important replaced and should be reliable despite the high miles, as with most Corrado's it just needs to go to someone with a bit of mechanical know how... As for a VR, there are lots of tired ones out there and you'd spend a fortune getting one how you want it, as you've got a garage and it will be a weekend toy - I would be looking to spend £4-5k and buying the best one you can lay your hand on, preferably with lots of Stealth receipts etc, use 2cc's car as a benchmark!

Yeah you'll probable have more luck going thru a supplier as AP are pretty awful when it comes to customer service... AP brakes are better but I was put off by them so much I went the SEAT / Brembo route as I know parts are easy to get hold of thru the dealer network / TPS.

Before doing anything check your alternator output! Should be 13.8 - 14.4 V across the battery terminals with the engine running This should give you around 12.5V at the window regs

Good work, Stealth usually use an air saw to get the comp valve off VR's, luckily it's much simpler of 4 cyl models... Other point worth noting that might help if your on your own on axle stands etc is to remove the brakes as this almost halves the weight of the beam (assuming they are being replaced / refurbed)

As above I think you've got the right idea already... Stock airbox to prevent heatsoak, especially if tuned - the Jabba kit is rubbish! Genuine VW air filter - more fins that cheap pattern ones. The only mod thats worthwhile is binning the carbon canister and running some sort of cold air feed up to the bottom of the airbox - you could also re-locate the outside air temp into this to monitor...

Yeah - I really do love those wheels, suit the car and so unique on the VW scene... It's always going to be known as 'Renshaws' car so it might as well stay how he intended it with a few subtle changes to reflect the current owner... Keep up the good work Vick!

As per other thread - they are the same for all 4 cyl models, VR6 is different. 191501541 = £33 + vat each according to my (out of date) etka

I think it's just the way the Millteks are tbh altho there is a lot to do with the fitment of these... try some new rubbers from VW maybe...

They are about £30 each matey + vat Funnily enough I just bought a pair of Gen ones off eBay, the Febi ones Stealth fitted to my TDI are shot to bits and I'm starting to feel it... they've done 50k miles over 3 years so not too bad for pattern parts but hopefully the real ones will last longer (being 5 times the price!)

As above, the standard loom is flawed but I got so fed up with the unrelaibility of the trimsport one I had that I've pulled it out and gone back to stock... Headlight switch does get a bit hot though! With new clean lenses, good reflectors and '50%' bulbs I have as good a lighting as any newish car apart from ones with HID / Xenons. I think the bulb technology has got to a point now where you can stick with normal 55/60W H4's and get good light output, the other thing to do with the weather as it is currently is clean your lights, makes a hell of a difference and I am using Rain-X on the lenses to keep the dirt from sticking. Just check your battery and alt are in good shape and you get 12V to the lights. Less than this causes the bulbs to output a more yellow light. Never use higher wattage bulbs on Corrado's as you will damage the reflectors, Also use standard bulbs for the fogs as the glass is known to crack and these modern bulbs put out a bit more heat. Bulbs to go for are.... Halfords Super Brilliance (Standard or Blue - stay away from the Extreme Brilliance tho as not as good) Osram Nightbreaker Philips Extreme And as Jon says, really you need to change bulbs every 2 years as they age...

Has to be cash - cheques and transfers can be reversed months later