Supercharged

LOL - no I think you should...

Yeah - if you can't see any signs of a leak then the slave will be leaking internally into the gearbox - the original ones are metal sleeved inside and this rots - especially if the fluid is not changed reguarly - a common problem on MK3 Golfs and Corrado's If it is the MC then you will want a new slave anyway as when they go they put more strain on the slave and this will fail shortly after anyways... The other thing it could be is a leak in the flexi pipe leading to the slave - but again, you would see this... Slave is cheap from ECP / GSF - just make sure it's made by either ATE or FAG, worth getting an eezibleed kit also if your changing it yourself...

Welcome - If there are no signs of a leak on top of the gearbox and the slave is original then I would change that first... I would try and get it sorted ASAP as it will only get worse and then you risk damaging the clutch fork trying to change gear...

PhilThePitcher, they are still available from the dealers as far as I know - very good quality over there!

Yeah - they don't come primed, they are a fiver ish

:lol:

Yep - they'll be fine

It's usually the lambda wiring near the rear engine mount bracket that fails (engine loom side) - maybe worth a check but I would replace the FP relay first Fuel pump cover - there isa special VW tool but you should be able to use a flatbed screwdriver and a soft faced mallet to break thge seal free - it just unscrews

Hi mate - prolly dealer only I would think, same for the bolts... think there is 8 of them and they will need torqueing up... Use a 6 sided socket -If they look rounded / rusty then time to invest in some Irwin bolt grippers

Ah the sheild behind it - yeah they're about £10 new and you need to remove the stub to get to it so best to buy new bolts too...

Vince says use a bit of wood so as not to damage the pulley...

Number 6 is the stub axle??

It goes to the back of the fuse box - with one extra yellow wire on a seperate plug - this is for the dim dip resister thing and should be disconnected if using an uprated headlight loom. What is wrong with yours - has the earth lead melted? - if so you will need a new switch and you also want to stick a 3amp fuse inline (on the brown earth)

GPC for new parts - Indicators are cheap but Fogs are not - mainly becuase they come with the plastic surrounds...

Think it's M16 with a pitch of 1.5 - VW do a repair kit for a couple of quid

Sheeeite Eric, I thought that was yours at first after reading the title! Hope the rest of the day got better... I went to that little show near Stansted today sponsored by HIC = small but cheap to get in, camping if needed and very chilled out - will probably return next year!

xbones, How much did Tom pay you to say that? :lol: Damn good thread tho!

Yep - 9 times out of 10 they crack when swapping cam pulleys - thats why VW say to fit a new one...

They gave you a belt for a 9A not a KR Te belt sizes and part numbers are listed in the instruction manual (that no-one reads :lol:)

Technically it's not adjustable (or meant to be) but you can get correction shims from VW...

Oops - sorry just read it properly - yeah pontiac pics would be interesting to see but probably no use to us to be honest as they will be LHD...

The original VAG ones here are good and last ages but the ones you guys get are much thicker and better quality for about the same price... get the originals if you can...

Hello, you want to remove the engine and box in one then swap the engine on the crane for the one on the stand and install the new clutch and swap the box, coolant pipe and any other bits... Bassically disconnect battery and ECU Remove all front lights, bumper and slam panel... Disconnect coolant hoses from matrix to block etc... undo expansion tank... Undo speedo drive and slave cyl from gearbox Undo Fuel feed and return lines and plug Undo engine / gearbox / TB earth leads and starter connections. Disconnect/ unclip all engine sensors and electrical wiring to rad fan thermoswitch and rad fan, Coil HT lead. Undo top of airbox and remove flexi pipe to inlet Undo exhaust downpipe to catlyst Undo engine mounts and disconnect driveshafts (8mm spline) Remove PAS pump connected and swing out of way of engine Secure engine with crane and lift slightly. Remove front rad carrier and crossmember, Secure expansion tank,rad, airbox top etc to engine Lift crane / pull forward on crane and down on exhaust until free checking bonnet clearance etc... Yan will be along in a bit if I have missed anything but then bassically build up new engine with ancillaries and install in reverse of the above :lol:

Crystal Meth?

Yes then - there is only one part number for the fixed column so it will fit (it's the UJ's that convert to the different number of splines on the various racks) You will need the steering lock from the other car or a new one too - good time to change ignition switch also...