Supercharged

Maybe ignition switch or ECU relay?

Yep, as above - oil line failure / blockage can lead to bearing failure so thats another thing all G60 owners should check. The original belt is also too thin compared to the ones G-werks use to replace them.

Jeez - I'm suprised the belts lasted that long regardless of mileage, it's 15 years old minimum now... I can't believe someones replaced the leads and bought samco pipes for a 50k engine but not had the changer belt uprated!!!! Engine looks like it's got fairly hot at some point too looking at the paint cracking on the rocker cover.

Welcome to the forum... Try searching for '2.0 and 16v and cold and start'and see what comes up Also have a read thru this thread about a car i've been looking at this week... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51288 No real answers or conclusions but it may give you a few ideas...

Is the pump running on ok?

Yan - nice one - it keeps running, I knew I forgot to metion something...

Yeah deffo VAG - did they sell you new bolts too? - you need 4 per side plus one nut IIRC I've got a fork type splitted from halfords but I think it's a bit small for BJ's - the one's VAG use are type with a thread and nut.

Could be a broken subframe bolt or ball joint but I reckon the front ARB could be fitted upside down!!!

You can't bend the axle at that speed, something else must be wrong - maybe check the seam welds on the axle... Wouldn't think a stub axle would bend easily either - just wondering if you've ripped a rusty bolt out of it's thread - the ones that go thru the brake sheilds and hold the stubs to the beam...

Who did the engine work?

6 or 7 work fine in native XP mode, ETOS is better tho as you can get price updates over the web

021907601A £33

That VW price is wrong, even the three parts on there own wouldn't add up to that... You need 037198141DX which is £125 +vat (£95ish trade) I reckon the VW one will be better (the VR6/G60 ones certainly are) but if it's a standard car I'd be tempted to try a GSF one at that price...

I need some pads for some S2 Calipers I have coming to me, I have standard VAG 280mm discs so would like Pagid FR pads if pos... I went to German Jewish and Mongolian today to try and aquire some... I asked for the above but the first set were clearly wrong (- way too small) I had the Audi part number of 895 698 151 but this did not cross reference... They did have 447 698 151A and these looked like they could be them, I bought these and when you stick that number into ETKA it shows a twin pot caliper but it is a seperate part number to whats above (doesn't supercede) Does anyone know if what I've got is correct?? - I've highlighted the GSF part number below but I have a feeling I need the more expensive pads down the list...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stationary-Engine ... dZViewItem

Jim - any decent motor factor should do but try somewhere like JJB sports - they'll sell the same product for gym equipement

Ah - good idea Mr Wort...

I'd just like to point out that the above is dangerous an should only be done if the mk3 matrix has been fitted (and an OE VW one!) Even if the new matrix has been fitted then the pipes should be replaced not bypassed!! Madness...

David, yeah it's deffo buzzing (loudly) so I think the lifter is shot - I felt the bottom of the tank when we got it running but it's hard to tell if the intank one is working or not as the one on the outside vibrates also... It also runs like it's under pressure...

next time , set the grips to slightly smaller than the rotor arm and crush it...it will crumble away in seconds Switch to full edit form Stevo - I tried that but it wasn't that brittle, I reckon it had been replaced and re-glued - molegrips were no use so I hacksawed thru it and then chizzle's it with a screwdriver and hammer!! - I then hand to sand the shaft to get the glue off... Checked vac hoses and couldn't see anything obvious but there is a slight noise on throttle so will investigate more... Other strange thing was that all spark plugs had petrol visible swimming about on top when you took the leads out - where is that from??? I think the fuel pump pitch does change but not with load, I reckon one is down but which??

If you need one asap just go to an auto-electric place...

Yeah - that rare optional crank handle you've got works a treat!

The PAS fluid is now about half the price it used to be too... maybe not the same stuff tho...

It may be the prongs on the rheostat inside the light switch need bending back into place...

Filter was fairly new Jim but was made by 'Fram' who are well known for making filters that wreck engines... I hacksawed it open and it looked fairly clean inside but was different in design to the VAG ones... It's running but i'm not sure what fixed it - could a battery be so bad that it would stop the car from running? it would not crank but was fine after changing the battery - took a while to start tho as the plugs were fouled with fuel and I think the valvers need to build up to full pressure to start unlike the G60 / VR?? I had a right game getting the rotor arm off - was areldited on I think! Ran up to temp but very lump - either lack of fuel pressure or electrical fault... another interesting thing was some valve in the metering unit was making a loud whining noise while we were trying to get it to start...