Supercharged

Blue Pearl http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download.php?id=1367

1 ltr should really do any harm but I wouldn't let it get to hot... best if you can to drain half a litre out of the filter housing, just need an allen key...

It depends on whats been done etc, but they usually do it in about 1 hour on the rolling road but if the car is say misfiring and they need to diagnose and fix it will take longer...

You've got a VR6 so you'll either have a 70 or 90 amp alternator, it doesn't really matter but you want to get a battery roughly around those figures and as big as pos really - alot of VR's iv'e seen are running 64ah or 70's...

Yep, engine cold and use a pair of plier's if it's won't come out on it's own, for the sake of a tenner I'd change the BTS as well as thats the important one!

Am I right in thinking the Waxstat would also cause this?

Black Supercharged VR6 in Woodbridge a couple of days ago???

Cool what ET are the ZW's?

Entirely depends on what condition your box is in and what else you need - best give Vince a call and discuss... standard rebuild is £550, diff is another £500 but not sure whats needed to make the 6th...

I've got an Ikea futon... can I join?

Yep, they're superb, I got one as well - can't believe they don't sell them anymore!

PBSTORM, welcome to the forum... Could be alot of things, maybe best to put up a list of what has been changed recently - leads, plugs etc... and also get the car on VAG COM to see if there are any fault codes saved.

Make sure that wire is insulated and not going to earth

I'd rather have that over any standard VR tho!! Good G60's are becoming rare and therefore should be worth the same if not more as an equivilent VR.

Not exactly mate, GSF sell either a SACHS or LuK kit, the VAG kit is a mixture of both manufacturers parts and more heavy duty than the pattern kits too!

Get, 2x 1.5ltr bottles (3 ltrs total) That will give 30-35% (VR cooling system 9.5 ltrs or 10 with auto)

probably similar, best check part numbers and compare...

Ignition switch is the other thing that can screw the MFA, maybe worth getting a new one anyways (even if it doesn't fix the problem) as they are well known for going wrong! Fuel filter been changed recently?

JBL do some that fit but due to the size of them you'll never get anything that impressive out of them... good OE type upgrade tho and makes it sound like a newer car...

This lot should keep you busy.... :lol: Car not running right? Here's some common debugging tips! 1. Engine running warmed up, unplug the blue coolant temp switch, does anything change? No = bad coolant temp. Alt: 1000 ohms resistance after normal operating temps 2. Air Temp (on intercooler tube) 500 ohms on outer two pins, you have to drill out the cap to get the adjustment. 3. O2 sensor, of course, check the wires/harness for any damage. If you haven't replaced this lately, might be time to get the universal and just crimp the wires on. $60 or less. 4. The TB -> ecu hose must be plugged in the right place. its closed to the passenger side. Unplug the ecu hose from the ECU , if the car still runs like crap, then its the ecu hose. Don't even attempt to drive the car with the ecu hose off. 5. Check your battery voltage, If the battery voltage goes low, the ECU dumps 25% more fuel than normal. 6. The ground wires, to the head, and everywhere else. Bad grounds are a common issue with this car, especially the one to the head. 7. Distributor cap/rotor, remove, inspect and clean dirt. Sandpaper any "growth/corrosion" on the metal contact points. 8. Wires,plugs, you should remove the plugs and inspect for damage, or fouling from being rich. 9. If o2 sensor goes bad, it will kill the cat real quick. Remove the cat by lowering exhaust, look inside, if its crumbly, turned sideways, or black, its probably dead. 10. Check vacuum through boost gauge (10-15psi of vacuum) or MFA (84-104) at idle. Anything else, you might have a big vacuum leak. 11. ISV - if you haven't rerouted it, you may have a leaking ISV. 12. Idle screw on throttle body. Make sure its not gone, or about to fall out. Usually results in "hunting" or high rpm idle. 13. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? Its by the passenger rear wheel. Easy to change, watch out for gas spraying you in the face! 14. Timing. If you don't own a timing light, you can mark the distributor cap and base with some paint/white-out. Unbolt the ~13mm bolt that holds the distributor down. Turning the distributor cap right, will retard timing, Turning left will advance. Advance = more power, quicker off the line, more likely to ping/knock with poor gas. Retard is when you feel pinging or detonation. I'd suggest, on the hottest day possible, advancing a little, driving, and advancing more until you feel knock/detonation or pinging when you first get on the gas. Then back off some. Stock timing is 6-8 degrees, with good 93+octane gas , you should be able to go higher. With poor 91 octane, you are going to have to back off timing a bit with most chips. Do you know how to test your boost levels? 1. Start Motor 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop motor 5. Start Motor 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 15 200 -23.7 55 400 -17.8 90 600 -11.9 127 800 -5.9 148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Taken from http://www.snstuning.com (DIY section)

Right, you should notice a big difference if everything is working correctly but it sould like you need to get your car set up properly and make sure all the engine sensors are working correctly - before speanding any money... Problem with the clocks is more than likely just a blown fuse - have you checked them?? Next, What condition is the charger in and when was it last rebuilt? If your not sure, do a boost check, this can be done without any additional equipement but putting the MFA in diagnostic mode. Next, how tight is the serpentine belt? - ideally a shorter one should have been fitted with the new pulley but the old one should be adequate if the tensioning damper is in good condition. Next, how does the car feel to drive, how much fuel are you using, is it responsive? - this may give us an indication to what is going on...

Yep, both above correct... custom driveshafts would be needed as VR ones are longer than G60's anyway plus if it's an O2M box you'd need a custom mount. Unless you have a spare grand or so kicking about i'd try and sort the one you've got or get a second hand one. Vince at Stealth Racing is yer man for 02A gearboxes

You just gonna slap a new engine in it then? gives you a nice spare on to play with i suppose when you get time!

Solitaire, give that reg to yer dealer and get them to do a check and print out the history

Use the search, lots of info on here!