Andi

But might be worth to see what they are like with mods, eh, Tom?

Adrian Flux are cool with them.

Mine due at the end of the month..... :shock:

I was going to get Corrado on the rev counter like the current dials - if they will do it (Copyright issues).

I have to send them the dials as a reference - anyone got a set? Mine are stuck underneath my white dials, so can't get at them!

Cheapest is GPC, about £45 IIRC.

http://www.gpcvwaudi.com/

(shite website, but you can get details from there)

You replace the dials, as you would with normal white dials - the only different being you need to connect a 12v lights-on dependant feed and find a place to locate a brightness button.

It is also recommended you remove the bulbs from the dash.

Easy enough to do - I'll do photos and instructions when the time comes. I've done it enough times!

I'll start a new thread.

Ah good point.... Labelled as "Samples" get it through for nothing?

Right, I've just got off the phone with SR, and here is the deal:

They will do a run of 50 Reverse-style for us at $28 each. P&P of the finished product is $80 to the UK - but thats 1 parcel. I'd sort out distrubution within the UK.

Total = $1480, and would be about a 1 month from order to ready-to-ship.

That's £930 for the whole order.

If we stick to '25 places', that is £37.20 per place - which includes 2 sets.

I would need to add to that in order to cover Paypal costs (excluded if you send me cash) and P&P from me to you (again, if you want to collect, this can be waived).

Price per place: £37.20 (which includes 2 reverse-style sets for Corrado).

Paypal surcharge (per place): £1.50

P&P within UK: £2.50 (First-class Recorded)

Whatcha think?

If two people want to 'share a place' - sort that out amongst yourselves - but if we don't get 25 places filled, the deal won't go ahead.

The dials will look similar to this, but for the Corrado, rev counter to 7 (redline at 6.5), speedo to 160mph, and fuel guage 1, 1/2, 0 - so compatible with 12 gallon and 15 gallon Cs. Only for the digital dash too.

Night & day time (Golf versions pictured - so obviously slightly different)

I can specify whatever options I want.

I will get the "Unleaded fuel only" removed, and would people prefer the rev counter in tens or singles?

Red notches on the speedo for each mark, or all blue?

Before the run is made - I will be sent a final design to approve, so we will know what they will look like!

Provisional Places

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Me (2 sets)

VR6

CorradoVR6-n.o.s

funky

Henny

dubboy

ray_vr6

Supercharged

Joe M

Pau1

dan

mark16v (maybe)

ollie

noby

blown

leavon

']['H3R4POR

GringoG60

dubprince

pimp

stevemac

DM

willmason

andyvlw

leew

Beetlebug_2001

jedi-knight83

Mike16v

DEL VR6

anthonyg

MADDUB

Gaz154

anubis

Shilakadaddy

Places remaining: Complete! Though we can order more than 50, so other people are more than welcome! ;)

Looks like it'll be classic-style black-n-black too.

Current Status: On hold, since I have to move 'n' stuff. Someone else is more than welcome to take the reigns though. This is a zero-profit group-buy from the organisers' point-of-view, but what you buy you will be able to make a profit on. I don't have any specific ties with SR Racing, so someone else could easily help me out here.

Agreed 0, 1/2, 1 for the fuel, so compatible with 12 gallon and 15 gallon C's - and yes, would be upto 7k revs so for the most users on here - G60 and VR6 owners.

So, if we have "25 places", people can take 2 or 3 places if they wish to order more for resale.

As for the halo/reverse choice - it depends how it comes out. I'll drop them a mail and see if they could draw up a design so we know how it would look.

http://www.streetracerparts.com/models/ ... gauges.htm

However, they are US-spec dials, so only goto 140mph.

The company would produce 160mph dials, but we'd need to arrange quite a group buy!!... :shock:

Hello,

Thank you for your inquiry about making reverse gauges for you model. When

we make them we make 100 sets. We would not want to put it in our model

development and be stuck with 80 sets of UK style gauges.

What we could do for you is a custom order. You would buy all 100 sets and

you could re-sale them in the UK and make some money$$ for your self. We

could sell you the reverse for $27.50 US each set for a total investment of

2750.00 US .

Another way we could do it is we could make a new style of reverse called

halo-glow. They are reverse on the numbers and have a standard indiglo in

the center around the needle, you get the best of both worlds, with reverse

and 2 color indiglo. We only have to make 50 of the halo glow, so that work

in your favor too. We can also sell them for $27.50 US, for a total

investment of $1375.00 US.

Because you will be the only one in the world to make these, You could sell

them for a higher price then normal. You could sell them for $75 US easy.

That would give you a profit of $47.50 US per set. If you sold all 50 you

could make $2375 US PROFIT!!

Let us know if you are interested.

 

Thanks,

Customer Service

S/R Motorsports

http://www.StreetRacerParts.com

Anyone fancy going in for this?

If 25 people all give $55 each, each party would receive 2 sets - one to keep, then one to sell for about $55... :)

Yup. Left and right are the same. £138.91+VAT each from VW.

Bearings are £30 each and code is v1h0 498 625 - if they're needed too.

i take it ur car must be a 89/92 to be 4 stud the later corrados m reg i think r 5 stud standard if im correct im not sayin g i def am but im sure im right u can change ur hubs to the later one which would be 5 stud! or im not sure if u can buy adapters hope its some help

Only VR6's are 5-stud.

All other models of Corrado - any age, are 4-stud.

http://www.silverfusion.co.uk/

Dunno how they fair with other company's though - just a company that emailed me a few months ago.

Some people may not have the space to drop the front-end though - e.g. if the job has to be done roadside (no driveway or garage or whatever).

I suspect both methods take the same time and Jonathan was incredably slow - I can't see how it took him that long! And remember, you have his instructions - he was figuring it all out.

I can do a rad-change on the MX5 in 15 mins... lol.

Taken from the eGroup:

Hi, I have now successfully replaced may radiator. Here's what I found:

 

Price

 

VW charge £196 + vat for a new radiator

Euro Car Parts charge £87.40 + vat

 

I chose the Euro car parts one and can report that it is seemingly identical

to the VW one but without the VW/Audi logos. Running temperatures seem the

same.

 

Fitting

 

The Bentley manual advises that the front bumper and slam panel must be

removed first. This looks rather involved so I took advise from Jamie (on

this group) and used another method as follows.

 

1. Remove the battery so that you have sufficient clearance to withdraw the

radiator.

2. Drain the coolant (coolant drain valve accessed from below).

3. Remove plastic trim on slam panel (the one with the fan and HT warning

decals) held by 2 Philips screws.

4. Detach the top hose from the radiator (at this stage leave the

Radiator/hose adaptor in place). Tuck this hose out of the way (made easier

if you also detach the thin hose at the expansion tank.

5. The radiator is held in place by 2 locating pegs at the bottom and 2

brackets at the top which slot into the radiator and bolt to the slam panel.

Remove the 2 bolts from the slam panel and withdraw the 2 brackets from the

radiator.

6. It is necessary to remove the fan assembly before the radiator can be

removed. The fans, motor and housing all come out as one piece. First,

disconnect the plug on the fan motor. While your at it, also remove the plug

from the coolant sensor in the radiator. The fan housing is held on to the

radiator by four self-tapping screws (roughly one at each corner). Remove

the screws and remove the fan housing. Removing the fan housing is where

the fun begins! There is very little clearance. I found that the best method

was to manoeuvre the fan assembly so that the base was further towards the

engine than the top. The assembly can then be lowered slightly giving room

to turn it so that it can be removed from where the battery used to be.

Take thing easy when you do this, these is no need to use brute force, it

will come out if you persevere!

7. It's now time to remove the radiator. There is one more screw to undo,

it's a self-tapper that holds a piece of plastic cowling on to the radiator.

It's easy to miss because it's in front of the radiator facing the back of

the light unit on the battery side of the car. I couldn't get a socket in to

shift it but a 10mm spanner did the job easily.

8. Disconnect the bottom hose. You will probably need to access the clip

from underneath the car. Large Mole grips are good for shifting the spring

clips that hold the hoses on. Be ready to catch the remaining coolant as you

detach the bottom hose.

9. The radiator can now be removed using the same method that was used to

remove the fan assembly. Once again, patience is required!

10. Once the radiator is removed you need to transfer a couple of parts from

it to the new radiator. The first is the coolant sensor which simply

unscrews. The second is the radiator/top hose adaptor. This was a bit of a

pain on my car because the two bolts holding it down were seized. The nuts

are captive within the plastic at the top of the radiator so if you use

brute force all that happens it that the nuts split the plastic and spin. I

ended up chiselling them out because the old radiator was scrap anyway. But

it would be worth giving them a go with some dismantling fluid first. Above

all, you need to be careful not to damage the plastic adaptor because it is

very brittle and you need to re-use it on your new radiator. The adaptor

also has an O-ring which should be replaced (although I didn't and have no

leaks so far).

11. It is now time to re-assemble. When you do this don't forget the rubber

washers that fit on the locating pegs at the bottom of the radiator. I did

and had to start again. 12. Fill up with G11 coolant and distilled water,

and away you go.

 

The whole job took me five hours because I'd never done it before, and, as

explained above, forgot a couple of rubber washers and had to start again.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Jonathan Miles

Agreed, pinking generally occurs at range of revs, but just one very specific point.

And re-reading the first post - pinking should only occur under load - and the rattle is when not-moving too.

Ant and Darren are going, since I'm going with them!

Yes, the distributor controls the ignition timing AFAIK. Or at least, it can be altered there.

it sound like pinking but i dont think it is pinking if u no what i mean

Have you had the cam belt changed or any performance work done recently?

Sounds like you need your ignition timing checked.

Can be done DIY if you know someone with the timing light.

(P.S. I think it's ignition timing, not cam timing that needs checking. Apologies if I'm wrong, but I have a stinking cold and details aren't my forté at the moment!)

If the sound is like metal bearings being shook in a metal can, it could be your timing and the engine is pinking.

If it is just a rattle - sounds more like a loose heat-shield and the vibrations at 2,500rpm just happen to make the metal resonate, and would be solved by some tightening, if you can find it!

The account Andy90 is Inactive, because you never validated the account - when you join up, an email is sent to the email address you supplied, which contains a link and activates the account - as you should know from creating your newer account.

I notice you changed your email address by one digit from the 90 to 91 account - how many Hotmail accounts do you have? :lol:

Simplest method will probably be for me to delete the 90 account, then you can rename the 91 account to Andy90. Let me know what you want to do.

There's critisism (which I can take), and abuse - which I can take, but after a while, chose not to.

You do not need to remove the front-end of the car to replace the rad on a VR6. There is a method.... I'm sure someone somewhere has it written somewhere, else I'll try and hunt it down.

That isn't the problem... it's all internal business made 100% worse by catty comments from club members who have no facts to base their comments on.

I was the webmaster for the new site. The old site disappeared by accident (not my doing), then I closed the new site after constant abuse.

It was a favour I was doing for the club, and I dedicated many many hours to the new site, but hey.

Should all be sorted this coming Sunday, at the EGM.

The previous webmaster warned me about the attitude of some of the members towards the position - I really should had taken his views to heart.

It would seem there's just a few wannabe-webmasters out there that wanna do the job, but don't put their name forward, and cause hell for the person who does.

I made a website for my previous car's club... no problems whatsoever. I still can't understand the stress I received from this! Ah well.

And it hasn't re-appeared for reasons out of my control.

I have removed it - it has given me a ~2mpg increase in economy and the tubing for 'venting to fresh air' is easy - it fits perfectly into one of the little wholes in the wheel arch.

The 2mpg increase may also be attributed to the ducting of cooler air to the induction kit from the front of the car, but yes, I did notice a clear benefit.