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Andi

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Posts posted by Andi


  1. think you'r barking up the wrong tree, the dump valve just lets the excess boost out to let your turbo spin up quicker.

     

    Welcome to the world of Forced induction :)

     

    Dump valves redirect the vacuum caused when lifting off the gas to change gear (under acceloration), therefore allowing the turbo to freely spool-down, not be forced to a complete stop, then have to spool up from 0rpm when the gas is pressed again in the next gear.

     

    I get a pop from my VR6 at 1.5k revs. Good fun blipping the throttle in traffic when bored. Only ever done it since the Miltek was installed though. However, I wouldn't be suprised if my 190k mile-valves are quite as tight-as-a-tiger as they used to be.

     

    My MX5 used to burp flames like a bitch. But that was aggressively retarded cam timing. This is probably the same for the 20v Turbo - it'll be setup to get the best fuel/ignition timing under hard accelloration, as opposed to a more economical setup.

    I wouldn't worry about it in the 20vT. You ever seen V8 Supercars racing in Australia? Watch them as they change down gears for corners... ;)


  2. Car dealerships sell cars, they don't tend to store 100s of cans of paint for every colour of car they've ever made. I think you'll find the paint is made in exactly the same way as a paint shop would mix up the colour - just VW think its a good idea to delete all the techy specs about older cars from their computers after a few years, just to make our lives difficult!


  3. Yup, aircon is a dealer-fit, but only by an external party option, never done in the factory.

    And the Daviair systems are normally quite badly installed... but it works fab and I can't see the bad wiring and cutting, so out of sight, out of mind ;)


  4. In the US, I believe you can get Indiglo dials for the early Corrado. Late C one's were harder to find.

     

    As these are essentially back-lit, they would work fine and you could remove the front 'flood lighting'.


  5. You're right about the hose virus - that's the same hose that went on mine a couple of months back by the sound of it. I'm still paranoid about the coolant system - I leave the oil temp display on the MFA permanently now!

    Let me guess - the hole in the hose was right down near the joint to the head? A split in the side? Can you spell d-e-s-i-g-n f-l-a-w?? :(

    Thank you VW!!

     

    The hose went on mine too - again, same place.... However......

     

    I've slid an Mitsi EVO VII dump-valve silcone hose over the top of the T-hose and over the split.... Cost nothing (was in my mate's garage - and he got rid of the Evo years ago) and has held up for 8 months so far...


  6. Expect to lose the car for the day - its not a 2 hr job!

     

    ???

    Had mine replaced road-side by SilverShield (I think it was - insurance sorted it for me) and took the guy 1 1/2 hours.

    New rubber, excellent fitting, even tidied up the old rubber from my interior - plus no leaks what so ever.


  7. Dalek995, I had the exact same problem.

     

    Turned out to be warped front hubs (what your discs and wheels bolt onto).

    Total bill was around £800 when both sides were repaired by VW. Luckily, done under warranty so didn't cost me a thing.

     

    You can pick up some front hubs second hand for under £100 the pair... VW was about £175 each plus a lot of labour!

     

    Best thing you can do is get the car jacked up - preferably on a lift - a lot easier to work with then - and inspect the rotation of the wheels (hubs), see if there's any wobble (bearings), rubbing (warped discs)...

     

    Good luck.

    Dropping into a ATS Euromaster on a quiet day and slipping then a tenner normally gives you some time on the ramps plus a monkey to help you inspect.

     

    If you do need new discs, I can recommend ATE Powerdiscs. Cheap as chips from Eurocarparts, and actually rather good. They're grooved too. Personally I would avoid drilled discs like the plague - seen far too many cracked discs for my liking!


  8. Anybody know what make stainless this is?? It a full system to the manifold, and its a 1.8 16v. It hasnt got any markings on it apart from a sticker on the top of the backbox but its unreadable :(Any guesses?

     

    :lol:

    Gotta laugh at the reflection in the bumper ;)


  9. I have exactly the same problem.

    I've had it looked at by VW and PD Motorsport - both of which couldn't do much with it.

    A fluid change helped a little, but in the end, I just automatically slide into 2nd, then up to 1st now and it's no problem.

     

    A lot of C's have trouble selecting 2nd, so at least we get the benefit of most-likely standing still when trying to select our awkward gear!


  10. The Corrado only requires the 2 front wheels aligning.

    AFAIK, the rear wheels are fixed and alignment is not possible.

     

    VW do perform a full geometry, as I had this done with mine after an accident (and I sneaked it under some warranty work!), and the rear was fine - was just the front that needed a little alteration.

     

    Plus, any competant garage should put the appropriate balast in the driver's seat when doing the alignment.


  11. Normally saving the image to the correct dimensions, and either as a jpg or gif makes it less than 20kb.

     

    I have a 2 page animated gif, admittedly it's not full size (which is 150x150 pixels), but its only 13kb.

     

    But if you do need a hand, you can always contact me via email and I'll sort your avatar for you.

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