GrahamU

cillet bang, and the dirt was gone

Don't worry about the murdering, whilst the floods are washing away Yarmouth they have evacuated 9000 houses, there bound to be full of the latest gamestations and huge TVs

Seen that before Ron, not cheap. The 02s 6 speed from a Touran is the same design as the 02a/j and can be fitted with a little modifying

Now theres an idea, might have to sneak mine into work :)

wow, those rims look like they should be fitted to a Ford Anglia and driven by a guy smoking a Panama cigar (for those old enough to remember that advert) :)

get the cups from a 02j diesel box or some of the mk5 golfs use the 100mm cups, they are the bolt in type for these boxes not the circlip type on your 16v box, the cup come up on ebay but are usually expensive, I'm sure you could do a good deal at a breakers. The 02a starter will fit the 02j box

welcome, get some pics up of your car.

I'd be interested in this cos I broke mine trying to remove it

The graph above is my journey to work at about 8 in the morning travelling on A roads at 60 for most of the drive ;), this was in a Bora 1.8T with 225/40/18s I'll dig out some other data tomorrow when I'm back at work. This was logged on a day when the outside temp was 8°C, move forward a couple of weeks to a lunchtime on a hot summers day and you can up the temp by say 15° on a really hot day and pressure by 3psi before you drive on it Specs on my TPMS (IRTPTMS) 14.7mbar/bit Sensor  Pressure Range – 0 – 3.631bar gauge  Pressure Resolution – 14.7mbar/bit  Accuracy - ±25mbar Tyre Carcass Temperature  Temperature Range – -40°C – +215°C  Temperature Resolution – 0.25°C/bit  Accuracy (worst case) – ± 3.0°C  Accuracy (best case) – ±0.5°C Internal Temperature  Temperature Range – -2°C – 125°C  Temperature Resolution – 0.125°C/bit  Accuracy – ±0.5°C General  Transmit Rate (moving) – 1Hz  Operating Temperature Range – -40°C – +125°  Mass – 40g  RF Transmit Frequency – 433.92MHz more info here http://www.bf1systems.com/index.php?pag=products&catID=5

I cant comment on the use of stretched tyre pressures as I don't like them but here are my reasons for my statement above. Most of it is common knowledge and manufacturers recommendations. The first thing to remember is that although you check the pressure when cold, the tyres will heat up as you drive and the air will expand, this will be at different rates and to different pressures. It is this pressure you will be running on, not the pressure you set them to when cold. There are many variants to take into account when it comes to tyre pressure, these include weight, temperature, atmospheric pressure, how good is the equipment your using to inflate/check them, have you driven to a garage to check them, etc. Manufacturers say to check the tyres once a week but most drivers dont do that. Even if you checked every week, the change in atmospheric temperature can be sufficient to alter the tyre pressure by a couple of psi. If you checked first thing in the morning on a summers day, the temperature by the time it gets to lunchtime will change your tyre pressure, even the type of road will make a difference, a black tarmac road will absorb the heat on a sunny day and transfer to the tyre carcass more than a grey road surface. When you check the tyres, how good is the pressure gauge, has it been damaged by the general public abuse, when was it last calibrated and how far out is it, what is the tolerance of the gauge. Again, these can all alter your pressure by a couple of psi. Then the main one is have you driven to the garage to check them. If you are trying to get a recommended pressure then that is a big no no. The graph below shows the rise in temperature as the car is driven, the pink/red line being the temperature of the air inside the tyre and the yellow being the temperature of the tyre carcass. Then this graph shows the rise in tyre pressure for the same drive (please note the pressure shown is in absolute which reads approximately 1 bar higher than gauge pressure). You can see, it doesn't take long for the temp and pressure to rise enough to make your check after the drive to the garage inaccurate. Check your tyres when they are cold and haven't been driven on using a known good accurate pressure gauge, preferably your own. If the weather changes the next day to be several degrees hotter or colder, your setting from the day before will be wrong. Then theres the tyre itself, if it has a soft compound, the rubber will move around a lot more causing the tyre to get hotter when your driving and therefore changing the pressure of the tyre when it reaches its running temperature. Little things can also change tyre temps, I have seen when testing the tyres on a car that the airflow across the tyre can alter the temp and therefore the running pressure, damaged or modified arch liners can make a difference. On your Corrado, do you still have the brake ducts as that will change the amount of airflow over your tyre. Do you drive on motorways or round twisty roads as that will also affect how the tyre works. Do you take short journeys or long How is your suspension set up, camber, tracking, have you got coilovers, has the weight been setup for each corner. What gas are you using in your tyres, if your using normal air then what was the humidity of the air when you filled them, higher humidity air will expand at a slightly different rate to low humidity. Like I say, lots of variants to take into account that all can make some difference to the running temperature/pressure of your tyres. There are many more things than all this to take into account aswell. In my opinion, and it is only a recommendation, the best place to start for your tyre pressure is the manufacturers recommendation for that car, that will be a compromise for many different scenario's, from there keep an eye on the tyres and check for any uneven wear and adjust each tyre to suit. For a person on any forum to say, you need to set your tyres at this pressure is still only a guesstimate and should not be taken as gospel. I run TPMS on my car, the same one that winning team use on their F1 cars so I see how much variation I get in my tyre pressures for different journeys on different days. Hope that makes some sense, but I know there are some that will argue my points :)

use the slave from your box, it fits the same on the 02j

All that use this pressure use that pressure is all a bit pie in the sky, I can guarantee none of you check your tyres regularly enough to know what your running from one day to another. Most of you wont even be checking your tyres at the right time when you do check them.

we all come back ;) Looks great

you know it makes sense

Thanks, gonna need some of this soon

look great, any plans for the winter?

Or go to TPS, I'll send you a PM

The flywheel of your current engine will bolt onto the agu, then fit a g60 clutch plate with the vr clutch cover If your keeping it as an agu then you'll only get 200bhp max so your box should be ok as its essentially the same as the 02j fitted to the mk4s, but it depends on its condition, mine had done 160K mls so didn't last to long :( but I fitted the later ko3s turbo :) I used an intercooler from a Renault traffic van, it slotted in nicely between the rad and the front panel, a merc sprinter cooler is a similar size and has been used on many conversions.

going back to your bodywork, what did you use for the sills to give them the texture?

Trouble is 02a's are getting old now, whats the millage on the 20v box and is it cheap? Mine was only 230 brake and I have broken the 16v box I had to start with and a diesel box, I now have a box from an AUM

Very nice Bobby

That's how the experts used to suggest it was done so you didn't need to pay for immo removing. Looks like some nasty joins you had there, glad your getting it sorted

Here you go: and just the sill part

Looks like a real nice one. Like many others I'm sure, I've read your mk1 thread on clubgti and cant wait to see how this one progresses

nice find