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GrahamU

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Posts posted by GrahamU

  8. Posted

    AEB and AGU are very similar engines but the AEB was mounted inline and the AGU is transverse. You would probably be better with the AGU as it will already have the inlet manifold you want. Although the passats and A4s are cheap to buy :)

     

    280s may be a little small for 250bhp, you could look at 288/315 on a 5 stud conversion or maybe 288/315 on a 4 stud by following this thread

     

    http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=45434

  9. Posted

    My plan is to buy a complete AEB engine from a seat leon cupra and rob the head, pistons and con-rods as it seems that it will be the easiest way to get all these parts.

     

    Hi Ben,

     

    Will watch this with interest just to see how its done but do you realise the Leon didn't come with an AEB, you want a Passat or Audi A4 for that engine.

     

    The AEB has the large port head so if you want a Golf/Leon with one of those you will need to get an AGU (But I think the 180bhp Leons all came with the AUM small port engine)

  10. Posted

    Hi,

     

    What is the front of the sill panel like on the passenger side, if its rust free, I don't suppose you would think about cutting it of? (from the bottom to about 6" up the A pillar and 6" down the sill from the very front edge under the wing) or in a big lump that I could cut the required part off.

     

    Ta

  18. Posted

    I'm sure this has probably been covered in here before and I don't want to get into a massive debate to whether cone filters increase / decrease or get heat soak e.t.c.

     

    All I'm interested about is - Are there any air filters out there for the 1.8t 20v that have proven power gains, or any that anyone has used and got a good result?

     

    I'm running a AGU engine and currently it just has a cheaper open cone filter on it but it needs replacing.

    Cheers

    Tom

     

    Have you read

     

    http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=36539

  19. Posted

    i have phoned up vagtronics and they say they dont get involved with this side of the conversion so im hoping you can help. there are 4 wires that need splicing into the back of the fuse box-

    a thin black labeled as oil sensor.

    a thin violet labeled as ECT sensor

    a thin brown labeled as ECT earth

    a thin green labeled as RPM tacho wire

     

     

    No after sales support, sounds like a great company to buy the harness from!

     

    The wires you mention according to the Bentley manual,

     

    a thin black labeled as oil sensor. - which oil sensor is this? temp, low pressure or high pressure, there should be 3 wires going to the cluster

     

    a thin violet labeled as ECT sensor - G2/3 which goes through the fuse box to the cluster

     

    a thin brown labeled as ECT earth - to ground

     

    a thin green labeled as RPM tacho wire -G1/12 (should not need a converter, mine doesn't)

     

    More info for cluster wiring here

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3078876-The-unofficial-Cluster-Swap-thread&highlight=early+late+cluster

  20. Posted

    OEM can also have traction control aswell.

     

    Is cost an issue?

     

    Are you buying a whole setup/car so you will have the OEM ECU, harness etc

     

    I thought about this when I did the 1.8t and decided to stick with the proven OEM ECU that VAG have spent millions on ensuring the hardware is reliable.

     

    The engine ECU will already be setup to work with the haldex ECU and if you choose, the ABS ECU and any others you use.

     

    With the OEM you also have the standard OBD11 diags for fault finding the engine and haldex etc.

     

    I'm sure there will be good reasons to go for aftermarket aswell

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