blue95

c'mon u 20v turbo peeps!...my MOT depends on it!

Forgot to connect the little blue wire :scratch: now my battery goes flat For the 20v turbo alternator, does anybody know of which of the 2 pins on the multiplug (highlighted below) this is connected to? as I don't have the connector. alt.jpg[/attachment:3p09pjgv] Cheers

Really do need to check the hose after your temp gets that high.....could be thermostat or water pump?

Yep can see the recess, circlip seems to be so damn tight...lack of space doesn't help either tho

Had to remove the driver side gearbox flange (don't ask!), basically bought a new circlip and it just wont go back on! Have tried all manner of circlip pliers but nothing seems to hold, as it has very small edges and goes into a the recessed flange :bad-words: Any tips? before I a whack the car with hammer! Pic below no - (19) Screenshot-2.png[/attachment:nytnb62y] PS - I have tried placing it on the splined shaft and placing a socket over it and whacking it...no effect!. Also am a bit limited on space as the gearbox is in situ on the car!

possible faulty sensor? unable to sense the abs ring at 130mph? LOL.......as long as it works now dude i'd leave it!

don't think thats long enough to be a decat pipe.

I need a set of 17" BBS RX doing...one of them has a flat spot on the inside of the rim :mad2: How would I get my wheels down there for the group refurb tho? Cheers Sukh

You will defo have to cut off a corner , the biggest headache is the rear edge as it takes a lot of trial fits to get right and then needs a lip putting onto it. Would be really interested to take a look, I'm OK for getting down there...may have to bring one of the kids tho LOL.

Sorry to hear about your couple status....working on cars is a lonely world! Looking at these pics is certainly bringing back memory's! Drilling spot weld on the syncro floor nearly sent me potty too LOL No probs with giving pointers, I am around all day tomorrow, but away Saturday and Sunday. The floor is a real pain in the ass to fit, are you taking it completely apart e.g. side panels, cross member etc?

Hi mate, Weird my grille at the bottom of the bumper is open. The drivers side vent fitted perfect to the wheel arch liner marking. For the passenger side I had to cut out about 2 inches away from the liner was marked :scratch: for it to fit perfect

gonna look awsome in the colour your chose....look forward to seeing it!

Nice work chap! You have more patience than me, I opted to leave the box sections as is and seam weld. Your way should be neater. Was the previous owner any one on here? what a numpty! :cuckoo:

my front one looked OK too until I took it out and watched it tip hydraulic fluid all over the garage floor! One way to check, is rev the engine from under the bonnet and see how much it lifts.

front engine mount? When my front one was fooked the car drove terrible....so much so that one garage asvised me that my gearbox was fooked! :shrug:

Nice work mate...bad good a bad situtaion! 8)

Basically got the ducts and did a trial fit yesterday. Drivers side perfect, slots into front bumper and lines up with the wheel are liner. Passenger side not so good, slots into front bumper but lines up next to the arch liner marking for where it should be :scratch: Has anyone fitted these to a 95 car and had similar probs?

Those wheels are pure car porn :D

Coming on nicely 8)

lol, have 3 of those sets, the mid size one always seems to come off the pressed in shaft, but they seemed to get clogged way too easily, i will have a go tomorrow night i was too busy in the pub this eve... toon toon toon!! :clap: o and i'll take some close ups of the floor so it shows whats necessary to keep and remove! - and with a bit of luc some before and after pics with the dipping. I think all i need dipped atm are floor syncro rear beam syncro arb (gwerks recommended sticking with this and refurbing as if upgraded it can make the car understeery :gag: ) front hubs (thank you josh and stu!) The slam panel and front x member has been cleaned up by hand and will be treated to a pro spray eventually to cure the stone chips this'll be when i get the gouges on the rear bumper repaired from dropping it :( but i've hammerited it for now as i will with the front subframe once i've cut it around for the aircon unit and moving the gearbox mount 20mm back Try and get some bigger brushes, I have some can't remember where the hell I bought them from tho. Although if it saves time can't argue with that! As for the syncro arb, not sure about that advice, the syncro arb is pretty weedy, alot of the syncro peeps go beyond the rallye arb and go for a passat item, which is even thicker! FYI syncro arb is 18mm, rallye is 20mm passat is 22mm. Hope that makes sense!

LOL - brings back memory....electric drill + dirty big wire brush attachment...will make mince meat of the seal (don't forget to wear googles) http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13734/Abr ... sh-Set-3Pc

give them a good soaking in wd40 a well, give it time to soak in. As said above use a good quality allen socket!

crap news mate....water pump?

Nice motor...bargain!!!! Would check how much clearance you got between the coliovers and the side of the wheel/tyres. Alloys look quite tucked in, might be pressing or rubbing on the spring, if they are bung on some spacers.

Is it just me or does it look like it has camber all round? :scratch: