poll250

I've got a pair of originals for sale here: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=97353&p=1122199#p1122199 Would be perfect to refurb and then stick on! (exactly what I did! can throw in a spare new OE rear bush too

I did mate yes, looks quite tight with the PAS pipes so I think you need the correct tool from vw; I was quoted £23 for it though so haven't splashed out yet! Kev managed to get one for a fiver somehow! I might try gsf to see if they do it cheaper.

I'm going to try setting up my DevilsOwn Meth injection kit tonight (This one: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/dvc-30 ... 2-305.html ) I'm sure drilling the holes and mounting the pump will be fine, but I just wondered how people get the wiring through from the engine bay into the cabin? Is it through the foliage seal in the scuttle panel?

Looks stunning! Love the rims and the paint looks super fresh!

Thanks buddy, not good but def not the worst thing that could happen to it. That's the best way to think about it. I had this happen to my car last year outside my house, from rear quarter to front wing. Some c$$ts around that's for sure.

Yeah Dave told me about your rack being the issue on your car when i spoke to him a few weeks ago. I had the Track rods off last weekend though and couldnt feel any movement in the rack pulling on the inner rods. Really hard to work out as it only happens when the car is moving. Might be an idea to put the car on stands and then run the engine through 1st and 2nd gear to see if I can trace it that way. Don't fancy lieing under the car while it's doing that too much though. I have to get to the bottom of this before I go FI as I think that will just exacerbate the problem, it's been bugging me for months!

Hmm, I just got a quote of £23.50 inc discount from my VW man! :( Seems a bit steep to me. I WILL get to the bottom of this noise one day! Let's just hope it's nothing to do with the Wavetrac diff! Next stop is taking the O/S driveshaft off again and taking a look at the gearbox flange, but that's another topic.

Brilliant film, Mickey Rourke was excellent, very captivating. I quite liked the ending, he went out doing what he loved most. I think that's a lot better than a nice soppy ending!

I see from the steering thread that you've had a go at adjusting it! I've got a spare rack at home too so will have a go at fiddling with that before I attack the one in the car. In other news: Silver: or Black: I just can't decide! I only did a light layer of matt black so I can get it off pretty easy if I decide I don't like it. N.B Excuse the ride height, had just had the car on stands and hadn't settled.

:wave: I had a feeling this might be the answer to my dodgy clunking noise. I've literally replaced everything possible on the front end and admittedly the steering is 100 times better now, but I still get the clonking when accelerating, it's doing my head in! Did VW have the 22mm tool in stock? I want to get to the bottom of this asap!

Swap the rear wheels onto the front and see if it goes away.

Really boring post sorry but I need help!!! I'm now on the final straight and hopefully just about to finish to the changes to the OBD2 loom. Quite a technical question for you or anybody else reading this: I have the Corrado Bentley workshop manual so I have the pin layout for the T68 ECM connector but I don't have one for the Golf VR6 loom that I have so I can't find out an answer to this issue. For data transfer on the corrado there is a two pin connector with grey/white & Yellow cable coming from it. I have followed these back to the T68 connector at pins 43 (Grey/White) and pin 21 (Yellow). On the Golf loom there is a Grey/White cable going back to pin 43 but no yellow cable at all and no pin in slot 21 on the ECM connector. What the hell do I connector the yellow cable to that I'm going to transfer from the rado to the golf loom??? Does anybody have a pin diagram for the Golf VR6 ECM (I think it's a '96). It must have two data transfer pins surely? Many thanks for any help!! Jim Did you find any answers to your wiring problems Jim? I'm close to doing this conversion myself but have a feeling I may be underestimating the wiring problems/skills. Am I right in thinking its just the fusebox->ecu->multiplug loom that needs altering? Do you just use the complete OBD2 engine loom?

Nice one Phat! If you wouldn't mind digging it out I'm sure we could come to some arrangement :D

With luck like that, I'd be in the Newsagents buying a Euromillions ticket right about now!

Mmmm new Track Rod End and Wheel bearing on the passenger side completes the refurb of every component on the passenger side of the car! Had a good wiggle of the inner track rod but there was no movement at all, which is a relief. Tackling the drivers Wheel bearing and Track rod tomorrow. Hopefully get to the bottom on the 'clunking' I get in 1st and 2nd gear. Fingers crossed it's not the inner track rod on that side. Also, I was having a look through Bentley earlier and noticed this: I've never read anything about adjusting the Steering rack for play on here, is it worth doing?

Hi, I've had a modified O2J shifter ( I think from an S3) laying about for a while. I tried fitting it for about 2 hours while I had the engine out a few months ago, but no amount of angle grinding would get it to fit. Here's a couple of photos: It seems like the cable on the righthand side is fouling the hole, but I cant see where else the hole should be placed TBH, and all MK4 style shifters I've seen have the cables mounted off to one side. Has anyone got an idea of what I can do to get this in the tunnel properly? I know a few people have Mk4 shifters fitted. I've heard Polo units are a lot smaller so I guess I could get one of them, but don't really want to have to fork out again, or lie under the car for another 2 hours with no luck.

I was gonna post last night but forgot, nearly did the same to mine! Drilled the first in 10 seconds perfectly neatly (on the fixed tube) Went to take the ignition barrel out of the adjustable one and snapped 2 drill bits, trapping the snapped portions in with the barrel! Managed to eventually drill a larger hole and release it, with only slight damage to my ignition barrels spring! PHEW!!! Enjoy the first drive! I've been loving my car since I did it :)

I always wondered about that Avatar! Which one is he?!!

Time for a bit of an update, keep the thread ticking over. This weekend I went about fitting the much talked about Fixed Column mod to my VR, I sourced a Polo column from eBay for £20 and bought the rest new from VW. Big shout to Tekara for sorting me out a late cowling too, maybe the last one available?? The Polo column as I received it: Like to see someone try and steal this: Bit of a mid-session action shot. Irwins made light work of the shear bolts: Anyway, all I I think it cost me about £120 to do this, and I have to say it was worth every penny. Steering feedback is so so good. Seems to have quietened down vibrations in the cabin too as an added bonus. Bang for buck this is a great mod, and my column wasn't even THAT bad in the first place. Last night I attacked the doors with these: New door pins (mmm orange :gag: ) New window rollers Daves Door Handle repair kits. The new rollers went on in about 10 seconds flat, and the door handle repair kit was fiddly but not too taxing. Driver side door pin took 30 seconds, whereas the nut on the passenger side just rounded straight off. This was particularly annoying as it was the passenger side that actually needed doing in the first place. I ended up taking an angle grinder to the head of the pin and then using my trusty irwins to get the nut out! Finally at the stage where I'm getting pretty happy with the car overall, but now I'm having dirty thoughts about selling my Rotrex and meth kits, and going down the OBD2 + Turbo route over winter.... Just need to speak to Vince before I make a final decision.

This bolt at the top of the column, joining the steering column to the tube: download/file.php?id=59393&mode=view I just did mine up with the irwins, but if you've drilled it out you'll need to find a new bolt, or I guess just leave it off.

You could probably do with another bolt too for the joint at the topbetween the column and tube, I didn't have one so just reused the shear bolt as I don't think that's a stressed area. Not sure what others have done here if they've drilled the bolt out.

Is this the outer seal we are talking about? I've been thinking about doing mine soon as it's pretty perished. I was thinking you'd be able to do it with the sunroof still in, using a combination of different angles of tilt?

Followed this build on VR6OC for a while now too, simply unbeleivable commitment to making a reliable , high power stealth bomber! Love it. Would love a passenger ride in this one day as I'm sure it's blisteringly quick whilst still well refined. Look forward to reading about your experiences with the Racelogic too...

Good good! I think it must just be the spring doesn't have enough tension in it. I tried to tap the column onto the U/J originallyand it ended up shorting the column itself instead of pushing it into the U/J (the column is two pieces not one as I'd thought) so we then had to do a bit of fettling to re-lengthen the column again- I guess we just went a touch far so the spring isn't preloaded enough to keep everything central. Should be an easy fix for Mr. Hammer later. :D Trust me to make even the simplest of mods difficult!

Looking at this: It doesn't look like I've forgotten any parts. Am I right in thinking that there isn't actually a 'contact ring' or bearing race that you put on the end of the fixed column itself? The bearing just goes into the end of the tube and then it's tensioned by the spring on the other side?