poll250

I rather like this idea. It works with motorbikes. I guess it's quite crazy to think that if you've got the money, you could probably be out in a Zonda doing 220 down then A34 the day after you pass your test... (Although with the amount of lorry ruts in the A34 this may not be that feasable!).

Oh god, I have horrible memories of wasting a good deal of time trying to put those 4 bushes in. I put them in the freezer to try and shrink them, but still couldn't get them in. Good luck!

Got a nice little package from Camskill today, cant recomend them enough! Free recorded postage and they always get stuff out super fast and this time really cheaply to! Will try and brave the cold one evening this week to get them fitted, looks really nice and easy to replace Brembo pads. Hoping for a good improvement or I may have to get a Leon Cupra set up I thinks..

I just did a quick estimate of the surface areas and got: 2303mm for 54mm 288/312 2660mm for Boxster-S Rear 5328mm for 996/Cupra R Cupra Rs have twice as much surface area! I think I'll just see how the DS2500s work out for now, then look into my Abs a bit more if there are still problems.

I just got mine, it's growing on me!

It must get to the stage where you're in danger of ripping the callipers off the hubs if they can grip that hard?! DS2500s are 0.50 RS15s are 0.68 An average pad is 0.35 according to this: http://kmdtuning.com/news/2009/03/06/what-is-brake-coefficient/ 12.9 tensile bolts all round me thinks!

Just order a set of DS2500s from Camskill. For reference the part number is FCP1308H. £110 delivered seems very good to me, just wish I'd ordered them a couple of days ago so I could of fitted them at the weekend!

Does anyone know the Ferodo DS2500 Part number for Boxster-S callipers? Brembo part 996-352-421 & 996-352-422 if thats any help. I''ve been searching for a while and can't find it!

I can't justify £235 for two pads at the moment (with a Racelogic and Turbo looming) Although the RS15 may be the best out there, I think on this occasion the 2nd best will have to do me, so I reckon I'm going to order a set of DS2500s today :)

How much you looking for? I'm only down the road.

Perhaps I have an ABS issue then? It just seems I have a very hard pedal, it's perfectly adequate for pulling me up etc but if I stamp on the brakes as hard as I can I still don't get any kind of sense of heading towards the windscreen and the ABS just kicks in. HMM, maybe I should test stopping distances in a carpark or something! I guess it could be that brake pedal distance sensor playing up?

Hmm thanks for the suggestions Kev. I've currently got 312mm VAG discs on the front. My pedal seems to have a very short amount of travel before the ABS kicks in. Compared to my GFs 04 plate MR2 its ridiculously bad at pulling up. I can't believe a bog standard MR2 with single piston callipers should stop better than a 4-pot setup of any description. I've never driven another VR to compare my pedal travel/feel with though I guess.

I have a set of Boxster-S rear calipers on the front of my VR. I've been rather underwhelmed by there performance for the last 10 months and I think it's down the pads I'm using. Does anyone know if the pads are the same for all 4-pot brembos? I'd imagine Boxster, Boxster-S rears, Ibiza and Leon Cupras are all the same pad, but what other ones will fit? I've looked at Pagid Greys (RS15) but at £235 a set I think that's a bit of a stretch for now, so will probably get some DS2500s unless anyone has a better suggestion.

I think I'm going to have to block off part of the rad too, maybe pop something behind the grill to stop the cold air getting in. I have a low temp stat in which I guess isn't helping matters much, but I sure aint taking my cooling system apart in this weather to test/swap it! I have an FK badgeless grill somewhere, I might try and make something that blocks off all the slats and see how that goes. Has anyone tried this before?

Will have a crack at taking some pics one lunch time at work as after work darkness may cause a prob. Failing that weekend time any good...? Thanks for the offer Stu, but it's FIXED! I had a go after finishing work at 6.30 last night, must have looked mental to the neighbours laying under my car in freezing fog! I undid the bottom bolt and removed the mount, wiggled it about and then retorqued it, same with the top bolt. Lo and behold no more knocking!. I can't describe how happy it made me to drive home without any horrible noises in 1st and 2nd, and the whole car felt a hell of a lot more solid on the back roads (I guess it should do with the engine properly bolted down!) Just wish I'd of worked the problem out sooner. I wasted the whole summer not fitting my Rotrex because I couldn't track down this noise. Now it's gone though (both the Rotrex and the noise) there's nothing stopping me from having a nice Turbo bolted on :) :) :) Roll on February!

Really impressive work so far! Did you do the OBD2 conversion in the end, or did I miss that somewhere!?

Mhahahaaha 8)

I see, I see! At the moment I don't really overwhelm the Wavetrac, but I imagine an extra 150bhp would soon see me heading towards a bush. I'm hoping the weather will warm up a bit soon so I can go see Vince about sorting a Turbo kit out. Will be a good chance to test both the Turbo and Racelogic I guess. Did anyone else buy one in the GB but not fit it ? I'd be interested if so :)

Thanks for the help guys. I used the top and bottom bolt supplied with the mount. I've got the bottom "puck" in place, then a big metal washer, then 16mm bolt. I'm not using the cage thing with the 3 holes that the original mount used as the lower mount is too thin. Stu: Would you mind taking a quick photo of the bottom part of your setup? I should have remembered to ask take a look when you were over the other day!

Yeah it's been annoying me for so long! Well, I took a look on the BFI website and it actually looks like everything is in the correct way.... It's definitely the front mount lifting as I watched the engine move with my own eyes, but I only get 30 mins of daylight to work on it every day. I think I'm going to take the top bolt off and use a couple of washers as it may be the top and bottom bolt are just tightening into each other, making it seem like the top one is tight when it's not. That's my theory anyhoo. Releived to know that it's not driveshaft related though!

Well I'm an idiot. For the last 5 months I've been chasing an annoying knocking noise around my engine bay. The problem was that I could only replicate it while on the move. I've suspected the ARB bolts, Steering rack, Track rods and driveshafts but finally worked it out today! Turns out it was the front engine mount all along! After I'd worked out I could simulate the knock by parking on my parents sloped driveway and rocking back and forth slowly in 1st, it took me about 2 seconds to notice the front engine mount lifting! Turns out I've fitted the Black Forest poly mount incorrectly (to be fair it didn't come with any instructions!) Hopefully find some time (and daylight) in the next couple of days to refit it the correct way round and fingers crossed I'll have a nice knock free car again :)

Bramble = Blackberry! Not seen a Jasmine Yellow VR either

Hey guys, just after a bit of advice re this Racelogic. How would this work with my wavetrac LSD? When slip was detected wouldn't the racelogic kick in and kinda make the LSD redundant? i.e. Would it kill the power before the diff started working? How are the guys with it fitted finding it in this weather? How does it affect snow/ice driving?

Dealers will be pretty cheap I would imagine>?

I just remembered this thread! and reread it all. Any Progress on the Haldex?!