poll250

From what I've found out today it looks like it could be an engine bore plug that has corroded. I can't find any reference to this happening before on a VR (just my luck) so I'm a bit stuck as to how to progress... I've spent everyday/evening for nearly a month doing this so far, get to a point when I can actually drive it and this happens! My head hurts from thinking about it too much arggggghh :censored:

Anyone?

Well I've tracked it down! Looks like the sump was OK after all, it looks like it's coming from this hole: (ably demonstrated by my old engine). What the heck is it and how do I stop Oil from coming out of it?!!! HELP MEEEE! :clap:

Been thinking about a set of new style RS4 reps and just found your thread! They look great- what size, width and offset are they? Thanks

The drip of oil from my sump suggests otherwise! :(

I only did the bolts up to 15N/m which I think is 11 lb/ft in the first place. It was a pretty tight squeeze when I tried with a nut and bolt last night (+ I was fed up of laying under the car) so I just stuck some sealer on the bolt and screwed it in by hand. Guess I'll have a proper go at it tonight. I guess it's all experience ehh.

Having gotten my car back together and actually running acceptabley, I have to deal with the lovely drip of oil coming from my sump. Last night I took the sump off (not a fun job with the engine in!) and put some copper gasket stuff either side of the gasket. When i put the sump back on the last bolt decided to wreck the thread in the block :( Its the bolt that is directly under the PAS pump and belt, the block is pretty thin here so I guess the thread was quite shallow. I was either thinking of putting a longer bolt through the hole and then sticking a nut on the end, or using a self tapping screw that's slightly larger than the original bolt. Would this work or is the block too hard? Has anyone done this before?

Tried mine this morning and it definitely seems better with revs. Does this mean the PAS pump is knackered? Luckily I still have my old one lieing about so will stick that on tonight if thats the case. Then I can finally drive the thing! Good luck Mawrick

I was just about to post the same question. My steering feels like there is no PAS at all. Is there a wiring plug on the PAS pump at all?

:)

Is it ok to fit the sandwhich plate with the outlets facing downwards? When pointing upwards my hoses seem to rub on the crack pipe.

Will do! Just taken the engine apart, took the tensioner bolt out and then put it back in. Couldn't get the chains top cover off as one of the bolts was about to round off, and it's in a bugger of a position. But cranked it over with the rocker cover off: [youtube:231fg7qv] [/youtube:231fg7qv] This look ok? Chains look tight to me.

I thought I'd read it was 6.8 litres! oh well I have a small leak from the sump at the moment, so that should loose me a bit of oil :D When you say crank it for 20 seconds, do you mean manually on the crank bolt, or physically turn the key for 20 seconds with the plugs, crank sensor and coilpack unplugged? edit: just re-read your post and get it now! ignore me lol

I didn't get the head checked as everything looked ok, when I se it down it didn't visibly move as if a valve were bending or anything. I put about 7 litres in I think, I kept the tensioner bolt in oil all the time it was out too. I unplugged the coilpack before starting the first time to get some oil around, might try doing it again in the morning and see if it's any better. I should note the engine wasnt run for at least 6 months before I got it, could this have anything to do with it?

Got it all together and running! :) BUT it sounds like a bag if nails. There's a bit of a leak from the decat and possibly exhaust manifold at the head, but the engine noise is more worrying: what do you make of it? Sounds rough :(

thanks Tom! Any idea on the wiring for the starter motor too!?

Progress! Getting there now and hoping to get it started up later today. Just a few wiring questions, as I seem to have a few spare! Anyone have an idea how these mount/ what they connect to? This comes from the same wire that goes to the bottom of the rad, its yellow/white. No idea where it goes to!

Yup, Halfords do an 11/13mm brake spanner. I would cut the hose and then hold the hardline still as you turn the 14mm on the hose. The nuts on the hardlines always corrode onto the pipe, so even if you manage to turn them you just end up wrecking the pipe. When reattaching, just do the reverse, hold the hardline still while you spin the hose on, and then attach the hose to the caliper.

That's how I did it yup.

I had to do this last week, used a fork type extractor and it took a fair while wcking the crap out if it, but sure enough they came out in the end!

Has anyone got a photo of the rear passenger side hardline going from the caliper to the brake compensator? Managed to rip mine today when fettling the mk4 rears and mangled it alot getting it off!

Hi, I've got a plastic rocker cover and gasket to fit to the VR, but on both my engines there are studs coming out of the head that go through the rocker cover. I've heard of people swapping from metail to plastic covers before, do you remove the studs? or just use the studs and nuts and remove the captive bolts from the plastic rocker! :shrug:

Thanks Kev, you're a star! Any particular type of wire to go for?

I'd go MK4 Turbo all the way, 4wd would be so good! Get it bought!

Does anyone have any tips on extending the MAF cable? Like what gauge of wire to use etc? I've got a 6 pin MAF if that makes any difference! I'm pretty rubbish at soldering but I assume that's the best way to join the wires together?