poll250

There was something in the group buy feelers thread a while ago, not sure if it's been trimmed though?

Get 'em fitted tonight Rob! It only took me about 2ish hours to fit my Weitecs a few years ago :) The whole forum is waiting on you!

I'm pretty sure Weitec do the rear in it's own, I've got one on mine and can't recommend it enough for the money!

Hi mate, Good work on the car, it looks stunning. I just wondered how quick you are going through water/meth at the moment? Have you got any photos of the kit installed? Thanks

Does anyone have a photo of how the bonnet release cable and lever connect? I went to open the bonnet last night and it looks like the mounting that holds the outer part of the cable still while the lever pulls the inner, has come apart. It doesn't look like anything is broken and there are no mangled parts on the floor, I just can't see how to put it back together again properly? Any ideas?

It's been a while since I updated this! Hmm what have I been up to? Well, after sorting the clattering noise out and driving the car a bit I realised two things: 1.The PAS pump didn't seem to be working 2. The engine was leaking oil from a drain plug in the side of the block! Brilliant! After a lot of faffing under the car I swapped PAS pumps over and all was well on that front. The drain plug took a while longer: I tried some chemical metal to fill the hole but that didn't work. Eventually replaced the drain plug and the car has been fluid-tight ever since! :) Next up was the MOT, luckily sailed through just had to bend the passenger wiper blade a touch another year of motoring bliss was secured. Picked up a set of RCs from ebay for a good price as 2 of my wheels were well and truly buckled (one started leaking air after I got new tyres) The next couple of weeks were pretty unevenful, I wanted to make sure everything was running ok before putting the charger on. Oil and water temps seemed to be a bit high ( water pretty constantly at 110c and oil about 104-110) but was unsure about whether it was just down the hot hot weather we had for a while. Think I figured out yesterday it was down to a bad earth connection on the main negative lead that goes onto the gbox. Well, since I sorted that out it seems to be indicating a more realistic temp when driving normally. The only things to sort now before I put the charger on are: 1. Oil change 2. I've got a clunking coming from I think the drivers side driveshaft. It only happens under power intermittently (if I dip the clutch the clunking stops) If I get under the car I can wiggle the driveshaft left-to-right about 5mm. Would this be inner or outer CV? 3. I think the passengers hub bearing is on the way out (typically I just sold my other set of hubs with new bearings in!) These are all pretty easy to sort, I've just kinda lost enthusiasm. Spending pretty much 6 weeks under my car every day has sucked it out of me, so I've been driving it daily with these problems, bit stupid really as I've spent ££££s on it in the last few months so should really just press on and get it finished.

Hopefully just a quickie! Went to go for Lunch earlier and the car wouldn't start. fuel pump was whirring and ecu relay 109 was clicking a lot. Obviously the car wouldn't start. I had a quick look under the bonnet to see if any wiring had gone astray and found this: My question is: would the Gearbox earth shearing cause a short in the electrics? the bare cable was resting on the gearbox support in the back of the photo so i don't really see why that would be an issue as it still essentially grounds to the gearbox. So is it just a coincidence? Ill get the ECU relay changed asap anyway, but that's going to take a couple of days to arrive and I just want to make sure I know what caused it. The car started fine again after 20 mins btw. Any ideas welcome!

Does anyone know the part numbers for the Passat Master and pedal? Are they direct replacements for the VR items? I think my Master cylinder is on the way out as I've replaced the clutch, release bearing, swapped the slave and bled the system and still have about an inch of dead pedal at the top and have noticed I have to pull the pedal up a bit until it warms up over the last day or two. Typically this is straight after I replaced virtually everything else on the car! grrrrrr

Just a quick note Rob: I got my Tracking and Camber laser-alligned on Friday. Took them a good two hours to get spot on but the car feels so much better over bumps now, and a lot more solid. Not sure if you've had yours done recently?

Looking really good mate. Must be super excited to get it back :) I have to set up my water injection kit this week (went for the DevilsOwn kit) Not looking forward to faffing with all the wiring etc! Do you know where your pump is being located?

Had a look at lunchtime and it looks like some kind of valve in the hose. Looks like it's mean't to be there but I've no idea what it is. Anyone got a clue?

I had my inlet manifold off yesterday and noticed that there appears to be a piece of metal lodged in one of the coolant lines that goes to the throttle body (the shorter one) Is this mean't to be there or could it be a sign of something bad? (water pump impellor perhaps? Could explain my recent high coolant temps.

Do you know if these will work with the Dubpower leads by anychance? If so, PM me payment details!

I'm starting to agree with you on the Weitecs Rob! Now I've replaced everything possible on the front end it's still just so bleeding bumpy! You feel every tiny imperfection and I have to slow down for so many little holes all over the shop. I think it actually makes you slower point-to-point than if you were on standard suspension? I don't know if I can bring myself to face £1000 for new suspension though.(My bank balance definitely can't!) How did you get on with looking for softer springs?

Does it matter which way round you put the 3 connections on the top of the Oil filter housing? Ever since I've had the new engine running my oil temps seem a good 15-20 degrees higher than the old engine (Despite fitting a Mocal). I was just thinking that I may have mixed some connections on the oil filter up a bit? It's now running at 108-112 under normal driving conditions, without the charger fitted. The coolant seems to be around 100-105 most of the time too. My other thought is that I may have an airlock in the mocal. I have it mounted vertically currently, but not too sure how to get rid of a oil airlock.

Mine is in too! Still sorting a few running issues out with the rebuild but had a good blast earlier and it seems pretty damn good! Gives so much grip round roundabouts. Looking forward to giving it a proper pasting :)

Any news Sean? Hope you have the Porsche running again now :)

Will this cable be suitable for MAF extension purposes: http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6216 Off to Maplin later tonight so might as well kill two birds..

I took a closer look at the logistics of changing this plug last night. Unfortunately the body of the car is directly in the way of it. I think I could get it out ok, but hitting it in straight will be a nightmare. There are 3 options: 1. I just clean the hole up and use JB Weld on it 2. Drop the engine a couple of inches by undoing the 2 cross member bolts and lowering it on a trolley jack, hoping to find a straight shot at it. 3. Get towed to a garage and get them to do it. I'm leaning towards the JB Weld at the moment, Does anyone have any experience with it?

Me thinks I should have started this thread before paying for them!

Premium Members on VR6OC get discount at TPS. Someone has very kindly rung up a load of TPS' around the country and set up accounts at each. I've used the Oxford TPS quite a few times in the last couple of months.

Dang. 13mm is quite a lot! I'm using 7J OZ's at the moment with 10mm spacers - was hoping the extra 0.25 inch of these would be enough to drop the spacers as they are a very similar style rim. grrr. I guess I'll see in a couple of days, but I don't think my callipers are physically as big as Leon Brembos.

The Dubpower Leads are very good quality, but I find it impossible to use the lead removal/installation tool I have with them as they have a rubber lip that's a bit too big- as soon as I seat the lead and try and pull the tool out it seems to pull the lead out with it :mad2: Not sure what others do with Dubpower leads TBH

Hi, I just picked up a set of 17" 7.5 ET35 RCs for the Rado as 2 of my OZ's are buckled beyond repair :( I was just wondering if they'd fit over my 312mm Brembos without spacers? Ta

Just to back this up, Sharon drove to my work and hand delivered my HT lead the other week, refunding my £5 p&p in cash too! Very helpful Customer Services!