poll250

I was under the impression that putting axle stands under the subframe at the rear wishbone bolt was the recommended procedure? I've got an annotated phot showing the jacking points somewhere...

yeah that's what I'm on about! The pads just seem very rigid and hard to move with them fitted, can they be removed??

Anyone!? :shrug: They seem to inhibit the movement of the pads a bit, but they must be there for a reason

Bit of a quiet afternoon at work, so what better time to update this a bit. When I left off, I'd just finished cleaning up the block and head, well I soon got the Mk4 Headgasket apart and stuck a 8.5:1 C2 spacer in the middle. Also stuck the ARP head bolts in at this time: Put the head on carefully and did the studs up in the correct order, then it was time to swap my Autotech 262 cams in: Old cams came out pretty easily, luckily I had a new sender and sprocket wheel for the rear cam so didn't have to faf around with taking that off! Have heard it can be a real nightmare. Putting the cams back in took some jiggery pokery as the lobes were at funny angles, but managed if after a while and got the chain back on easily enough. All the timing marks I'd made lined up perfectly too: BONUS! Turned the engine over on the crank pulley and everything seemed nice and smooth. Fingers crossed I haven't fudged anything. Next I flipped the engine over and removed the sump to fit my ARP Conrod bolts. Sump gasket looked ok but had a replacement so would be rude not to use that. This is where I got a nice little suprise: One set of ARPs rod bolts already in there! Seems a bit weird as it had standard head bolts, but I'm not complaining: sold my set within 2 hours on the forum! :D WIth the engine back together, I turned my attention to my engine bay: With the engine out, I then took the subframe out, and swapped it for my rebuilt one with new ball joints, bushes etc I forgot to take any photos so here's one of the subframe back in! To top it all off my MOT is due soon and I've had a whirr from the rear bearings, terrible handbrake and then my ABS light on lately: cue MK4 rear calipers, new bearings and handbrake cables: That brings us up to last night! My gearbox is currently at a friends work in Leamington: they desgin/build motorsports gearboxs (new McLaren road car for example!) and one of the techs is completely rebuilding by box while putting the Wavetrac in: All for £100 quid! :D Got my remap booked for 1st June at Stealth, so that's a definite deadline for everything to be finished.....

Quick question: Should there be a little piece of metal between the rear carrier and pad? I should of taken a photo but when I took mine off yesterday there was a little piece of metal between them, on both sides. it seemed to make the pads very difficult to move, and I haven't seen it mentioned on any rebuild threads. Just wondered if I should dump it? Thanks

Mine feels tightest in the highest position! (lucky as my mk2 subframes make the seats It failed the MOT a couple of years ago when I left it in the middle, as there was too much movement, so I just stuck it in the high position and removed the adjuster :D Replacing it with a fixed column is on my list of things to do later in the year for sure.

Luckily the engine is out at the moment and the car is on stands anyway. I was thinking: Can I just put a trolley jack below the subframe to support the weight, undo the bolts holding it in and lower it slightly until I've got the right angle. Should it just push in by hand, or should I give it a 'tap' from above?

Thanks for the advice David. That sounds like I'd end up having to drill the bolts and remove the whole steering column off in order to mount the column into the other side of the UJ? There must be an easier method as lot's of people seem to fit refurbed racks etc! I'll have to have a closer look tonight.

Hi, Does anyone have any good tips on getting the splined U/J on the steering collum onto the steering rack? I dropped the whole subframe and refurbed it all, and when I came to fit yesterday couldn't get the two to mate properly, so did the subframe bolts up tight to see if it went in with the subframe in place, but no joy as yet. Any tips would be great as at the moment the only thing I can see working is hitting on it with a hammer, which doesn't sound too clever!

Bit OT, but will this filter be ok: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Apiro-DYNAMIQUE-S ... 5192cf2ce8 No room for my BMC anymore I dont think! :(

Brilliant idea cheers! Dont't suppose you also have a good tip for getting the steering column into the steering rack? One side has a flat bit, and the other has a groove cut out and for the life of me I can't remember which should face the pinch bolt, and neither seem to want to go in!

Is there a special tool for fitting ball joints? I got one on fine, but the other is just spinning and there's not much room between it, and the hub. Is there some kind of short ended allen key, or do people just grind down normal ones?

What's the best way to block this off? I'm sure I've read that you should disconnect the PCV when using a charger.

Did the very same to mine today. No point forking out for new unless it's physically falling apart to be honest.

Yeah! Bit suprising as it didn't have ARP head bolts (does now :D) Sure saved me a bit of time.

Say £80 posted? They're still sealed in the packaging, but I had to rip the packaging into 4 pieces to fit in my luggage BTW. Can probably post them tomorrow if you wanted. PM me

I have a set of ARP conrod bolts going if you're interested? Took my sump off to fit them yesterday, only to discover there was already a set in there. Let me know if you're interested...

That's funny, I'm also with Flux and they told me they don't do agreed valuations when I've asked. They did say I would get market price for my car + new for old on any declared modifications though. I think Brentace/ Chris Knott do Corrados on Classic policies. I remember the first year I had my VR it was on classic policy and cost me 300 quid! (Less than the 1.0 litre Toyota Starlet I'd had before!

Have a week off workleading to my remap at stealth next Monday, got a heck of a lot to do: finish rebuilding new engine with spacer, Arp head and rod bolts, and 262s refurb my spare subframe with shiny parts take old engine out and clean bay a bit. put new one in and get it running! Fit charger, 2 oil coolers (one for rotrex, one for engine) and water injection Also got some mk4 rear calipers ready to put in with new handbrake cables. See if I've got time for that though! I spent today cleaning the surface of the head and block, fitting the spacer, head and Arp bolts. Took a while and it's not perfect, but definitely a lot better than when it came apart - I guess we'll see if I messed anything up soon enough :cuckoo:

Yep, I took the head off and layed it on some cardboard on a table without thinking! DOH! As the cams are locked I assumed the valves wouldnt be able to move, so everything should be ok! What kind of grade wet and dry should I use? Have also read that a green scotchbrite pad would work well, have to see if I can find some later on. Cheers for the tip on the grease, was wondering what I should use, I guess just clean it out with some kitchen towel and then degreaser, the lightly oil the bores?

Just a quicky, taken the head off today to fit spacer gasket, and there are still bits of gasket stuck to the head and block, what's the best way for me to clean them off without damaging them? Should I worry about stuff getting into the holes around the pistons or will it just fall into the sump?

Bit of an update and a few graphic engine shots :D Weel, while the Wavetrac is away being fitted, I cracked on with getting the replacement engine apart today so I can fit the 262 cams, Spacer Head Gasket and ARPs. Took a lot of the ancillaries off the other week and got the engine mounted on the stand ok. Today I got the head off :) It's a good feeling getting it off. Just the hard part of putting it back together properly tomorrow. a few photos for the records: Graphic cam shot: Bit of gasket stuck on the block: Block: Being the idiot I am, I layed the head down flat after taking it off,Will I have done any damage here? A lot of gasket stuck to the upper chain cover: Really happy to have gotten this far myself. What's the best way to clean the gasket off the head, block etc? I read somewhere about using a scotchbrite (?) pad on a drill, but then should I cover all the holes around the pistons to stop stuff being thrown into the block? will white spirits be ok to clean it all up? Sorry for all the questions, I've never done anything to do with engine internals before! Thanks!

I can't stop thinking about those white Rotas, really make me want to paint my wheels white too LOL (Must resist until everything else is finished though!)

Please put me on the list if there are more than 10 available, depending on final cost of course!

Thanks for the help Tom :) That Matt Lewis kit comes with an "elongated bolt" is that not the one that will allow me to run both coolers? Went home at lunch and tried to undo the tube from the cap - no chance! I think it must be locktighted on, so I guess I'll have to get a new cap too now: DOH!