paddy26

It started with a few rust bubbles around the fuel filler cap and windscreen. When I started repairing these areas I realised that they would need new metal and then the panels would need to be resprayed. The drivers door had been badly repaired before and I wanted to sort that out, along with a few other marks on other panels. I would have ended up getting most panels resprayed so I decided on doing a full respray. Last christmas I removed the interior and stripped the shell bare. I then stripped the underseal underneath the car and repaired around the fuel filler area. The only other rust i found was where the sill and rear wheel arch meet and the factory jacking points at the rear bumper. with these areas repaired i then rolled the rear arches. i then applied rustbuster epoxy mastic and then 2 coats of dinitrol. I also applied dinitrol to the chassis legs & sills. While I was working on the shell I sent the rear axle & mounts, front subframes, wishbones, front stub axles, both bumper bars , fuel tank straps and a few other small bits to be powder coated. I then built the running gear back up and fitted it to the shell, along with the fuel tank. I already had KW V3's and Eibach rollbars, so cleaned them up when refitting. It then went to the body shop back in May and was only finished in December. I got the windscreen area repaired and deleted the rear badges, aeriel, rear wiper, side indicators, windscreen washers. I colour coded the delocked door handles, front grill and mirrors. Here are a few pics. I'll get some of the underneath when I'm fitting the exhaust.

I've been restoring my corrado for over a year now. I figure a build thread might help keep me motivated to get it finished. This is how it looked soon after I bought it in 08:

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to make a new mounting bracket for the external pump/filter. My one is all broken up anyway. This weekend i'll see if i can clean up the original pump enough to get new hose fittings onto it. i'll also remove the accumulator. If that fails i'll order a universal external pump. \Paddy

Thanks dannyboy. Engine is remapped AUQ. ~215BHP I don't want to have to source a g60 tank as this will add to the cost. Not sure I'd find one in Ireland either. I will still have to source a pump so I may as well get one that will work with the 16v tank I have. Is a swirl pot needed for all external pumps? I was looking at this pump: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160935741316?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 /Paddy

I'm looking for options on what fuel pump to use for my 20v conversion. The car was originally a 16v with the in tank and external pump. The fuel pump assembly under the car is in bad shape so I would like to replace it. I dont think the single g60 pump will work with the 16v tank and I'm not aware of another in-tank pump which is strong enough to feed the 20v without using an external pump as well. I think the easiest/cheapest option is to use the in tank pump to feed an aftermarket inline pump(mounted to a new bracket), and do away with the the entire original pump assembly under the car. I'll be making up new fuel lines anyway so connections won't be an issue. I'll also be fitting a fuel filter. Are there any other options? Can anyone see any problems with the setup above? The car is back from paint so I'll hopefully get a build thread started shortly. /Paddy

I'm bumping this thread instead of starting another one. Are the figures quoted above for the intank fuel pump + the inline pump? Does anyone know if the intank pump will supply a 20vt with enough flow/pressure without the inline pump? I'm removing the inline pump and need to know what intank pump i can use. cheers, Paddy

I drive a mk4 golf and when I have to drive my sisters mk5 I nearly go through the windscreen when I first press the brake pedal. As the others have said let them bed in before you spend more money on it. Paddy

If you use mk4 parts then your new wheels will need to be 5x100. Some people have had 5x100 discs redrilled to 4x100 so they can keep their original wheels but this can be expensive. The mk4 rear calipers are a direct replacement for your rear calipers. You just need to get the mk4 brake hoses aswell. If you do go 5x100 then you also need the mk4 rear discs. The advantage of the mk4 rear calipers is that they're made from aluminium and don't seize like the Corrado ones. Because you are getting new wheels anyway it will probably be cheaper for you to do the 5-stud conversion while upgrading the brakes. Paddy

They're normal thread. Use a 5 sided socket and long pull bar. If that doesn't work use the Irwins as suggested.

In PVW Jan 2011 there is a mk1 gti running fully adjustable boost from 355bhp to 466bhp. He is running a golf mk5/Audi a3 o2s 6 speed GQP gearbox. His name is Maurice Reeves and I think this is his build thread: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97945 I havnt looked through the build thread yet, I only know what I read in PVW. He's also on YouTube. The o2s should be plenty capable of running the power you want. Paddy

I believe this was used in the factory for testing purposes.

I had a similar problem with mine but it turned out that the n75 was connected wrong. Since your car was boosting fine before i would 1st swap the n75 for a known working one (assuming you are still using a n75). Are you still running the sai, n249 and n112 or have you those deleted? Paddy

Original ignition switch here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT And Roger isn't joking. I seriously hurt my back doing some rewiring under the dash. Paddy

To test the starter: Turn on the ignition so that you have lights on in the dash. Make sure the car is out of gear and handbrake on. Get a jump lead and connect one end to the positive side of the battery. Touch the other end of the jump lead to the smaller connection on the starter. The starter should turn over and start the car. If the starter doesn't crank the engine then it is a problem with the starter To test the wiring from the ignition to the starter: If the car started, turn off again. Remove the covers around the ignition barrel. (inside car) Remove the electrical plug from the bottom of the ignition barrel. You will have to supply the starter wire with 12v from here. I think the starter wire is red/black at the ignition plug (it will be one of the heavy wires). The heaviest wire at the ignition plug should be red and that will be 12v. Then get approx 6" length of med/heavy wire and join the starter wire to the heavy red wire. It should spin the starter but not start the car. If this happens you have a faulty ignition switch. Hope this helps. someone correct me if i'm wrong on the wire colours. Paddy

Here are mine in 16v clocks. I bought them from http://moman.pl/en/index.php?a=opis&k=26&id=88 Paddy

hmmm Looks interesting.. :D does the inverter make that annoying noise like "PIIIIIII" with these??? maybe we could arrange a group buy :norty: boh.. but I don't like the "corrado" written on it :( There is a slight noise from the inverter but when I put all my trims back on I wasn't able to hear it any more. You could wrap it in foam if you want. They should be able to remove the corrado logo if you dont want it; just send them an email. There was a group buy for these on an Irish forum last year so that shouldn't be a problem either. Paddy

I know they're not DDI dials but i got ones for my 16v here: http://moman.pl/en/index.php?a=opis&k=26&id=88 I also got a set of heater controls. The price is very good and so is the quality. I had to send them a photo of my dials and heater controls to ensure they sent me the correct ones. Paddy

Looking very nice. :) Any more pictures of the engine bay? What size alloys are they? It's sitting very nice on them. Paddy

I have fault codes for abs, airbags, Terminal 30 voltage too low and they dont affect mine. I'm running standard management. I had a boost leak which i could hear from inside the car when on full throttle and it turned out to be a faulty diverter valve (dv). I removed the dv from the tip and started the engine. On idle there was air escaping from the dv and just to make sure i then pinched the vacuum hose on top of the dv with my fingers to stop vacuum pressure opening the dv and it still leaked. fitted a forge 007 tonight and it's running much better. You should ceck your brake pedal switch 1st as it could be faulty; To test the brake pedal switch In Vag-com go to: 01 - engine 08 - read measuring block Then go to block: 006 Readings in zone 2 should be 000 without the brake pedal depressed. Upon pressing the pedal the readings should go to 011 upon releasing the pedal the readings should again be 000 There are 2 switches inside the brake light switch, it contains 2 switches, one for the brake lights and one for the ECU. Because the vehicle is fly by wire, if something were to fail you need to be able to shut the engine off, so when the throttle is depressed and the brake is also the ECU returns the engine to idle as a safety function. After that I would check the lambda probes... Paddy

did you undo the 2 screws which hold the wheel liner to the bumper? You should also remove the 2 plastic "trays" which are attached to the underside of the bumper as well (2 screws in each I think). You might just need to use a small bit of force to get the bumper loose. Mine was tight but it came out easy enough once I got it to move a small bit. Then it should slide forward and off. Just disconnect the lights in the bumper then. When I removed my bumper I was removing the whole front from the car so I had already removed the grill and the headlights but I don't think you need to do so. Paddy.

I read somewhere that some of the screens are not fully convex and have "flat spots" in them.if you do a search you might find out which brand this is. I had the same problem when I installed lupo wipers so I just put a bit of a bend on the wiper arms which worked as a temporary fix. I don't like it as now the wiper arm doesn't sit low and flush to the screen. I'm waiting until I respray the car and then I'm replacing my screen. It had a chip it in from when I bought it and now it has cracked. Paddy

I'd go here if i was you: http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m4b0s92p0 I have bought a few sets of tyres from them and they offer a very good service and quick delivery times, even to Ireland. They have a very good selection of tyres on the site for any budget and I havn't seen any sites selling the same tyres cheaper. For a few pence more than the ebay set you can get some better tyres. The kumho ku31 get good reviews and are a budget tyre (£148 delivered). Hope that helps. Paddy

I did this on a spare door which I'm about to paint. I wasn't worried about paint coming off. I just used a kettle of hot (not boiling) water to soften the glue and the trim came off pretty easy. No paint came off either and most of the glue came off with the trim. Longest part of the job was waiting for the water to boil! Hope this helps. Paddy

Thereis a plastic gromit/cover that should cover the two holes. It is used as an inspection hole when doing a timing belt. A gromit from another vw should fit if you can find a corrado one. Paddy.

The small box is the tilt sensor. It activates the alarm when the car is jacked up. It is usually installed between the hand brake and gear lever. The big box looks like the control unit for the alarm. There should be a sticker/label on it with info about the alarm. I have the cliffnet pro cd at home. If there is a copy of a Clifford user manual on it I'll pm it to you. There are instructions in the manual on programming a new fob. Paddy.