James.

🫡 My two say thanks in advance 😉

Never crossed my mind to be honest. Like you say, it does look a little better, but originality is key on that one. The 8v I’m not so precious about it being OE. They are different, both visually and mechanically. Because of the later, horizontal bars, the fins are mounted directly into the housing. Removing the need for a link strip. A-la pre August 92 interiors.

Good shout. Half of mine have fallen apart as well. Would think that 3D printing would be the way to go (limited producion and all that). So yeah, do some ground work and let us know how you get on 🙂

Thanks. Hopefully others can benefit from reading about the ECU fix. I seriously thought about throwing the keys in for a moment.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a challenge. But after 12 years I’m ready for a drive out.

Honestly, there’s been times when I never thought I’d get to this (albeit unfinished) position. It’s not complete yet by a long chalk, when are they ever ? (body touch ups/repairs, air con parts to source) but for the first time in twelve years, I think there’s a home straight to aim for. The first hurdle was to get it running, and yes other spanners have been thrown in my path, but once I’m confident it’s all running as intended we’ll be heading out to a few shows (not that I know what’s what in that world) Pulling out all the stops for the CCGB national day at RAF Cosford. Oops, have I jinxed it ?

Following on from my last update, the handful of you that still frequent these corridors may have read my thread regarding the ECU issues I’ve been having (The fuel pump relay would click repeatedly when fog, demister, brake lights and interior lights were operated). So after losing sleep, raising my anxiety and eventually finding a company that was capable of repairing the ECU, it was today installed and is now free from clicks when the cabin switchgear is operated (oh the joy).The highlights (as it’s been covered in the other thread) were that it was sent to ECU technologies in Staffordshire to be repaired and tested after what turns out that I’d reversed the polarity from the battery to the ECU at some point repairing the loom and fried the earth track. Four days, £250 and a two year warranty later, the VR now has a working ECU. Had a go at the old trick of grinding down the nodes on the wipers and now they wipe rather than smear. Backed it out on to the drive waiting for rain to test, but got snow instead. Hopefully not five months till the next update.

I’ll be treating it with absolute care an attention. And thanks for all your help/guidance. I have the utmost faith with the garage it’s currently with. Whilst there last time, a face from the VW scene dropped in for a chat:

For purposes of “the next person”. I thought it important to update this thread. 1, I contacted “ECU doctor”. They said they couldn’t help. 2. Sent the ECU to “ECU testing”. They opened it up and returned it as they couldn’t create a testing rig. 3. Sent to “ECU technologies”. Not expecting anything, they initially said that they’ve fixed them before and should be able to fix it. Received it back this morning (£250 lighter) and sealed up with a 2 year warranty. The main upside is that I wanted to know “why” it went faulty (to prevent it happening again). Looks like at some point I’ve reversed the polarity to the ECU and fried the earth track (the burnt components must have been a type of diode). Which isn’t surprising considering I spent so long tidying the wires under the dash. I’ll leave it with the garage on Monday and hopefully be able to update the main thread soon after. Although the first two companies couldn’t assist. They were good enough to get back to me promptly and not have me flailing in the wind. Thanks everyone for all the help you’ve offered up.

Sure these were on John Peel once 😉. I’ve had an interest in an early car. Silver, sans spoiler, a la prototype/original sketching. Could be one to watch. There’s a good video on youtube regarding the rear arm problems and their uprated parts.

Time. A commodity I have little of. But certainly food for thought. I’ve despatched the ecu to a repair specialist, so will have a clearer idea of next steps in a few days.

Is there a link as to what’s required ? I would imagine it’s a pretty big job as would have to change from dizzy to coilpack and the associated parts/engine plate etc ??? If nothing else it’ll give me some bed time reading material 😴

Completely agree. Trouble is it’s for the Campaign, so trying to keep it as original as possible. It had crossed my mind as a “last resort” option though.

As far as I’m aware, you can’t use a coilpack ecu on a dizzy engine. 92 MY is Bosch motronic 2.7. 93/94/95 are Motronic 2.9. And would require a loom change/rewiring. The throttle body changed on 93 as well. That is unless, someone has solid/first hand experience of running a 92 dizzy VR with anything other than a 92 ecu ?

That’s okay. The fact you’ve made an effort and got back to me is very kind of you. Thanks. Anyone else have an urban zoo they could navigate, and help get my car back on the road ?

Gentle reminder 🙂

Will do.

No need to apologise, thanks for looking all the same. Fingers crossed Crasher pulls one out of the bag…

Any Joy ?

That would be great, thanks

As per title. Delivered to Lancashire, or can collect if local. 021 906 258 B or CC prefix

Have you tried spraying the inner seals and anything touching the glass with silicone spray ? It worked wonders for mine.

James at Corrado graveyard should have one available.

To the right of the intake manifold is the plug for the injectors. Put a multimeter to the feed end and turn the engine over. You should get a voltage pulse. If you don’t then you know it’s an electrical issue (affecting the pulse) down stream from the injectors.

Are you getting voltage at the injectors ? This may help your relay locations: