James.

Fingers crossed they won’t, but sadly they mostly do. The pictures help me pick out the missing clips/brackets on mine, so thanks for that. While you’ve got the front end in bits, would you mind taking a picture of where the engine loom earth mount locates please. I think I’ve got it right, but can’t find a picture to be sure.

Good progress. Any bolts put up a fight ?

I didn’t, but in typical fashion, I went to the car this afternoon and overnight the battery has run down to 5v (brand new varta battery). To add insult to injury, the power cable from the battery conditioner had snapped and blown the internal fuse (cue spending an hour testing and hunting round for a spare glass fuse). Conditioner now works and is topping the battery up as I type this. Not even sure what could be draining it. Internal lights were off… It’s not the only thing feeling drained 😔. What’s the best way of identifying a drain ? Start pulling fuses ?

O That was my next move. My question is that if the clicking goes away when the car is running, would it still be the switch ?

What with all the electrical issues the VR is having, (but feeling confident a remedy is around the corner) I thought I may start prepping it for a future potential MOT. I’ve managed to get the brakes “operational”. But they’re softer than an otters pocket, so after a little advice from my local specialist, will attempt to bleed them for a fourth time. Remembering to open up the compensator first. Just as well I went out and bought more dot 4. After mixing up the horn and fog light connectors, it now has a working horn. There’s still some clicking from the relay panel, but we’ll keep chipping away and hopefully get a result sometime soon. The car now has all its fluids present and topped up (eventually). Though after two leaks in the cooling system, (and what sounds like an airlock when the water pump runs), losing half the power steering fluid and me stupidly over pressurising the eezibleed and losing half of that I’m reluctant to fit the slam panel / front bumper yet. With the 8v the bumper would already be on, but space is already limited, and I’ve yet to be convinced the fans are operational. The air con wiring / routing is nothing short of complicated. Excited by the small win with the horn, I attempted the next job, to replace and install the washer jets/pipes. They were stiff and beyond their best, so I called in at the local motor factors and bought 2m of clear 5mm hose and a couple of T connectors. The down side is the wiper blades are 12 years old and a have had better days, so that’s a job for another day. Oh and the wipe pressure from the OE arms is shocking. But we all know that 🙂.

I haven’t noticed a battery drain , but I’ll check that next. Fuse 6 (fans) does blow out every time I turn the ignition on. Not sure if it’s related, but I’m not for ruling anything out at the moment.

Funny, we went to the pub yesterday and half way through my first pint, the penny dropped. Couldn’t wait to test the theory in the garage after dinner and yes, I’d got them mixed up 🙄. But yes, many thanks for the heads up. Saw the two connectors and left them un-connected. But thanks for the advice. I’ve spent another couple of hours trying to chase it down this afternoon. So at this moment in time I have a horn that works. Which means I could conceivably have an MOT test. What I do still have is the remaining fuel pump relay issues. As of now, when and only when the ignition is in the ON position, the following happens: The fuel pump relay operates briefly (2/3 seconds) when: Interior door light is operated Map reading light is operated. Make up/vanity light is operated. Rear window de-mister is operated. Indicators are operated. Brake light switch is operated. When the car is fired up and running, the problems disappear (which tells me it is operating on the lower voltage circuit ?). I’ve poured over the wiring diagrams of Bentley, in a vain attempt to recognise a link between the above. Spent hours upside down in the footwell looking for clues at the front rear of the fuse box. But have hit a wall 😞

Cheers for the guidance. Double checked the earth points on either side. Checked all the fuses and relays were the right ones and in the right position. Dropped the fuse/ relay panel to check all the wiring colours match up (removed a tracker/old alarm/immobiliser and had to re/join solder parts together) still the same. Really frustrating as after getting the car running, and the ABS/brakes fixed. Damned electrickery is holding an MOT up ☹️. I’m trying my best to read (and understand) through bentley, but finding it slow going as it’s like day one of school.

It certainly has the “feeling” of a short and/or bad earth. When I was trying to chase the non start issue, I found the wiring in and around the fuse board was a mess at best (old immobiliser/alarm/tracker wiring). At that point I decided to cut out anything non original and take it back to basics. Tidied it all up, soldered and wrapped any exposed wiring, making sure colour codes were adhered to. Because I did all that before it was running, I’m curious wether I’ve connected up something what shouldn’t have, and/or somethings causing a short. If you have any suggestions as to where to start, I’d be highly appreciative 🙂.

Hmm, back to square one (I think !). I switched the bulbs out one at a time from the 8v. Still clicks when the brake is pressed. Disconnected the pedal switch and the clicking stops. Caught the rear wiper with my arm. That makes it click. So does: Headlight switch. Both interior lights (next to rear view mirror). Rear heated window switch. Fog light (when light switch is on) sounds the horn ! IMG_5607.MOV

Really wanted a VSR for the Campaign, but the outlay and having now decided we've spent enough time together, doesn’t make much sense. Glad they went promptly. I hear what you say regarding buying restored. I was on car and classic at breakfast time eyeing up an early 80s Merc. Some choice rides on that site.

Removed bulbs and no clicking now ! Next step ?

New forum title 🙂 Looks great from here. First Corrado I had was a 2.0 16v in white. Freshly polished in fading light makes all those lines/curves really pop. I said I wouldn’t have another white car, but I’d have that in a breath 👍🏻.

No need to feel ashamed regarding the sale. We all have our reasons for eventually moving on. Just one of those things. I wish you well with whatever the next project is. Your knowledge and support will be missed. All the best.

Pretty much as per title. There’s two issues, though I’m unsure as to whether they’re related. When I press the brake (although it’s the brake light switch triggering it), the fuel pump relay clicks. I’ve been working on the VR. Testing and changing pumps etc. Installed an ABS pump and bled the brakes/clutch. When I have a diagnostic cable installed and I switch the ignition to “On”, the ABS light illuminates and goes out as per expected. IMG_5601.MOV When I remove the diagnostic cable, the ABS illuminates briefly and flashes a fault code (1214). IMG_5602.MOV The fuel pump clicks whether the diagnostic cable is installed or not ? I’ve pulled relay 167 to establish that it is this relay causing the clicks. I’ve also switched it with a known working one and still the same. I’m very confused (I’ve added a video of both situations). Anyone had this issue, and have a solution and/or advice? Thanks in advance for any help 🙂

£700. It’s not surprising, it has a face only a mother could love.

Yes, cheers. I have some de-ionised already. Ready mixed certainly is convenient, but when you need 10 litres, it starts to look a little expensive for me. I put the Comma product in the 8v and it’s performing as expected. Just curious what everyone is using in 2022

Filling the VR this week, so whats everyone using ? Heritage only list pre-mixed at £13 a litre 😳. Anybody have a good word for this: Febi coolant Never thought I’d be confused over coolant.

What a day ! Having spent the last six months looking over my shoulder at the VR getting covered in more and more dust, and now having the 8v in a more “day to day” condition, I decided to re-visit the long term project. After the 8v had an overnight stay at the local specialist, I quizzed about the fuel pump and a little advice. Get some pliers on the shaft and try to free it off. Put power through it and try running it backwards. After a little soak of oil and more than a little persuasion, we had some movement. Lumpy at first, slowly freeing off with a little resistance. That was a few months back. Half eight this morning, I’m fishing around in the tank, removing the pump to carry the same procedure out. Pulled the fuel pipe from the rail and tested that the fuel ran off, when turning over (into a catch pot). So we have fuel. I’d already checked we had spark. Pipes are all free and able to breath easy. So what gives ? I could smell petrol in the inlet of injector number 4. But none of the others. Have I put the distributor back on 180deg out. Turned the engine to TDC and re-fitted the dizzy as per Bentley. Next up, checked the coil. All within Bentley parameters. Output when ignition on, pulsed etc. Injectors. Resistance good. Immediately thought it must be blocked injectors ? But five going faulty to the same end. Mmm, not so sure. Power ? Nope, nothing, nada. Ignition on and turning over, nish. Bugger. Bentley advice: check loom back to the ecu. Great. Just about to start sticking pins in the wiring, but decided to check the obvious points of connection. About to rotate the main loom junction open and there it was, the main red/blue feed wire had been pushed out of the back of it’s housing. Multimeter back on the injector connectors and we now have power at each and every one of them. Feeling brave, I opted to chance my arm at starting it up. I didn’t get chance to finish the line “ah well I tried”, and it burst into life. First time, no hesitation, as though it had started just yesterday. Now it’s fair to say, I was pleased as punch with this. After twelve years of ups and downs the engine at least now runs. I went back ten minutes later to fire it up again to check it wasn’t a flook. Whoosh. Same again. Brilliant, bloody brilliant. Buoyed by the satisfaction of having the engine running, I spent the rest of the afternoon re-routing the wiring, hoses, pipes and radiator. I’d forgot how tight it is in there (being spoiled with all that space in the engine bay of the 8v). Hopefully I’ll have the opportunity to fill the cooling system this week. And then get the clutch bled. It would be great if I can drive it out of the garage on or before next weekend. Being careful not to damage it again 🙄.

Parked like most of us on here. Furthest from the entrance in the corner of the car park away from everybody else 😀. Brilliant.

👍🏻. Without this mantra, the 8v would be scattered across the four corners of the kingdom by now. That said, I do feel like I’ve taken this theory to beyond any logical boundary with the VR. Injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning soon. And then other jobs. If I was hung up about driving it, I’d have thrown the towel in years ago. Great thing to look at, be it in dis-repair or gleaming in the sun.

A Corrado will do that regularly.

Deceiving isn’t it. We parked up in a well known flat pack furniture retailers car park recently. Leaving the store, we struggled to find the car as it was soooo much lower than EVERY other car parked. And mines standard tractor height ! Good news on the MOT though 🙂.

Just got to keep plugging away. I was real down on it a few weeks back, but knew there were better days ahead. Sounds like you have your hands full with your cars already ? Weighed up selling it and procuring a Volvo estate. I just couldn’t psychologically open up the life change that such a purchase would entail. My attention now moves towards getting the VR6 running. ho hum, out of the frying pan etc etc

I wasn’t in that frame of mind a few weeks back, but the drive through the lakes has re-ignited my enthusiasm. Perhaps end of a chapter, rather than ending. I toyed with the idea of selling, but what do you replace it with for the same money ?