corradog60stage4

no but i can get some next time im out in the dark. still interested to see

no one knows?

My custom RS001 fit like a glove although the stock size is 7X15 ET 25. bbs instar different width lips different width inners new lips and barrels sitting in the garage for years. some rs bolts and nuts to hold the wheels temporarily together 2 inch lip plaaced instar over barrel first. lip goes over the instar bolts and nuts looks pretty shiney 16X 8.5 wide 6.0 inch inner barrel clears with 5-6mm before hitting the spring. looks like going with a 2 inch outer is too wide and will give me rear wheel arch issues. before back front countersink My RS001 are finally assembled and test fitting it on the rado for any clearance issues. not going to rub the fenders

wow 15mm spacers for the front sounds vibration to me. also wouldn't the outer lips protrude outside of the arches? thank god my RS001 a la maison 16 inch do not have this problem.

i bought the outers and inner barrels new.

I have FK coilovers on my corrado and I have set the front coilovers spring perches to almost the top of the strut. In doing this the helper spring is already compressed and preloaded to the max and the main spring too is getting somewhat compressed and preloaded as well but not to the max yet. I need to raise the car so as too clear these big ass wheels. Is this good or bad?

the only way to do it correctly is to get an audi 5000s turbo manifold and modify it like I did.

Seamed the logical place and I'm lazy so it was nice and easy :) One question though if anyone can help, I filled mine up as a bit of a guestimate, it seems spot on with the engine running (a bit below max) but when I check it from cold I now have far too much in the sump, is this an issue? My cooler is mounted upside down so it probably struggles to keep oil in but I didn't expect it to just all run out when it's turned off. Has anybody got any idea what I should be looking for on my dipstick when the car has sat and the engine hasn't been run? You need to take into account that you will need that much more oil the external oil cooling system will take. since not everyone uses the same location and length of hose, it will depends on how volume it takes. Once you calculated how much more oil it takes. then you add that amount to the existing oil and whatever reading on the dipstick should be the correct oil level when cold.

Wow, that was a lesson!! :cuckoo: But, completley wrong im affraid, if you add a certain amount to one side of a wheel it changes the offset (ET) by half that amount, eg, you add 0.5" (12.7mm) to the ouside of a wheel, the offset reduce's by 6.3mm, think about it, offset is the distance from the MIDDLE of the wheel to the mounting face, you add to the outside of a wheel that distance changes but the middle of the wheel moves also doesn't it! Hey buddy you forgot to read this :cuckoo: Stock BBS RS001 are 15 X 7 ET 25 with a 4X100 bolt pattern. OEM outer is 1.0 and OEM inner is 5.5. so if you read adding 0.5 + 1.0 to the outside = 1.5 and adding 0.5 + 5.5 to the inside = 6.0 the ET remains the same at 25 but the wheel becomes 15 X 8. I wonder who's :cuckoo:

Finished mine yesterday and it took just over a ltr of oil to top it back up. Managed to fit it to a high standard by removing just the grill and NS headlight, didn't even need to get under it, if anyone has one to fit then let me know and I'll give you my little run through cooler.jpg[/attachment:3vs9p156] Hey, That is the same location where I installed my mocal oil cooler too. great minds think alike :wink:

how much more oil do you need to add to compensate the oil in the cooler and lines?

you got pics of your inpros and hid at night?

If you drive with HIDS you will never drive a car without them. HID is the new technology that gives 3X more lumens. There are those ricer kids with super blue lights that are really irritating.

Stock BBS RS001 are 15 X 7 ET 25 with a 4X100 bolt pattern. OEM outer is 1.0 and OEM inner is 5.5. SAE to metric conversion ET is measured in mm 1 inch = 25.4mm Back to my RS001 wheels I have that I will convert them to 16 inch wheels. People are still very confused as how to calculate or have an idea of offset. First positive offset can be reduced with the use of adapters and spacers but what alot of people that do not know that you cannot use adapters or spacers to increase the offset of wheels. The only way is the mill the hub surface of the wheel. I had a few yahoos telling me that with ET 10 wheels I would need spacers to make the offset positive. This is wrong. Going with spacers makes the wheel poke out which is undesirable for wide wheels. What I like about my RS001 wheels is I can alter the offset anyway I please without the use of adapters or spacers. OEM the RS001 comes with a 1 inch outer and a 5.5 inch inner thus giving you a 15 X 7 wide wheel with an ET of 25. To keep the same ET of 25 but going wider you can put 1.5 outer and 6.0 inner or 2.0 outer and 6.5 inner. both combinations will give you ET 25 but the first will give a 8.0 wide wheels while the second a 9.0 wide wheels. Leaving the 1.5 outer and 6.0 inner you can put just a wider outer 2.0 and leave the 6.0 inner to get an ET of 12.3. some may ask how you get ET 12.3? When you add width on the outer you will reduce the offset by the same amount. so you add 0.5 inch which is equivalent to 12.7mm gives you ET 25 - 12.7 = ET 12.3. You want a wider lips like 2.5 with the 6.0 inner the ET will be ET 25 - 25.4 = ET -0.4. you can leave the outer alone and increase or decrease the width of the inner barrel as well. Let say you have the 1.5 outer and 6.0 inner ET 25 you want to increase the inner to 6.5 so the equation will be ET 25 + 12.7 = ET 37.7. So I got two 1 inch , four 1.5 inch, four 2.0, two 2.5 inch outers, four 6.0 inner and two 6.5 inner to play with. bbs instar different width lips different width inners new lips and barrels sitting in the garage for years. some rs bolts and nuts to hold the wheels temporarily together 2 inch lip plaaced instar over barrel first. lip goes over the instar bolts and nuts looks pretty shiney 16X 8.5 wide 6.0 inch inner barrel clears with 5-6mm before hitting the spring. looks like going with a 2 inch outer is too wide and will give me rear wheel arch issues.

This is for aesthetics only and will not repair bent rims. as long as it is rash, gouges, chips and scratches.

Instead of sending them out to the wheel refinishers I decided to take on the task. Costs was like 36.00 for Duplicolor paint and clear coat in aerosol cans, primer, and CIL putty. a set of long beaches with rash on the faces, edges, etc... some CIL putty to fill in the rash some sanding primer, paint and clear coat :wave:

a polish is used to remove swirls while a wax is just a coating and does not remove swirls. the process is to polish first and add a wax after.

used a piece of wood as a chisel and a hammer and tapped it anti clockwise. it came off and pump replaced was easy

I DIYed a mocal oil cooler and sandwich plate. I have fairly long hoses running from passenger to driver's side. So I needed to put in more oil about 1 liter more to compensate the volume of oil the hoses take up not to starve the pump.

here are my headlight adjusting motors.

i got a few stage 5 chips for sale.

The NA headlights suck more than yours.

yes i'm one big wheel whore. :clap: what are you looking for?