krnau

Hello all! I have been having the following problem since I bought the car: The car starts up PERFECTLY except when it has been stopped for more than 1 hour. However, if I leave it at night and start it next morning (or next afternoon etc), about 8-12hours or more later... it starts up perfectly. This issue appears when the car has been sitting with the engine stopped from 1 to 8 (or a little more) hours. When this happens, it seems to be running on 3 cylinders from 8-12seconds (idleing at 400 - 600 - 400 - 600 rpm all of time)... but then, all of a sudden, it makes BRURURUMMM and idles correctly at 900-1000rpm :) I have been testing it for a while in order to know WHEN does it exactly have this problem, and it doesn't matter if the oil temp is 50ºC, 80ºC, 90.... it mostly happens when it has been sitting from 1 to 6 (or maybe more) hours since it was stopped. However, if I start it up and the problem occurs; and then I stop it, and start it up again, it works fine :pukeright: :pukeright: :pukeright: So all this things drive me to think about a malfunctioning WUR..... :mad2: Bits replaced (all of them brand new) & tested: 1. Rebuilt Engine 2. Block sensors 3. Distributor Cap & Rotor arm 4. Fuel pumps (intank and outtank) 5. Fuel filters 6. All air pipes checked, no leaks 7. Starter motor 8. Fuel accumulator 9. Earth wires from "-" battery to engine head (read about this somewhere, but made no difference) 10. Ignition timing set correctly 11. Injector seals 12. Throttle position switch 13. ISV And many other ones but I can't remember.. I need to say that all fuel pressures (system, etc) were checked and revised by a K-Jetronic master in a Bosch Service, but when it was checked this issue didn't disappear... so it might be worth a chech (I need some k-jet testing gauges... if anyone knew where to get them from..... :) ) Disconnected 5th injector makes the car start better (or it might be of my imagination :lol: ) NEW UPDATE SInce all of his mostly happens with warm(ish) engine, and within 30minutes - 4 hours after shutting off the engine... Yesterday, I decided to start it up, leave it for about 15 seconds idleing, and then shut it off. After 2 hours I came back to the car and WOW! it started up perfectly. I did it because in the case that the engine had been warmer than it was, it would have started up like on 3 cylinders... but it was stone cold, and started OK. this takes me to think that fuel accumulator is OK? it might be a WUR malfunction when it is hot) engine temperature senders not very fine? thanks :)

yes, this is very very, very easy to do. just take some extra care in how much you heaten the plastic, so it doesnt get literally "burnt" (carbonised?) :nuts:

Scott Brown is fantastic, but unfortunately there aren't many good British hardcore Dj's unless you like really cheesy horrible music, Try Marc Smith though - he's pretty good. I will :D thanks!

hello you can use some kind of iron soldering tool to join each bar. Then give it some sanding, and then (if required) apply some polyester putty (this is important, because this putty is flexible :D ) and sanding sanding sanding... starting from p40, then p150, p400 and finishing by p1000. Then, all you have to do is to go painting :)

in my kr this control unit is near the spoiler switch & spoiler ecu...

wow I found it: later on I will have a look. anyway, what is nº 4 supposed to do? it seems like some kind of temp. sender

Hello. I have always been wondering what the hell is this UFO (number 2 in the pic). Could any1 tell me, please? And according to the topic's main subject, where does the grey pipe (numbered 1 in the attachment) come from/go to? I don't even have a pipe in there btnenviar.JPG[/attachment:1bnc2tk1] thanks!

what is the carbon canister? :help:

anyone listening to makina or hardcore could recommend me some english dj? I assisted to a scott brown session at a disco called Pont Aeri here in Barcelona.. any1?

hi, thank you all for your replies :) I will pick my wheeled-ironpiece ( :lol: ) later on and once I get some money I will recover this post again :) thanks!

well finally I will leave the selex competition ones until next MOT (on september :() and then maybe get a bilstein+eibach combination :) I hope on september I have finished the university so I can get a good job and pay the bilstein (here in spain they are very expensive, about 600&)

hmm thank you all. I have been thinking about stock ones...... :(:( but I like lowered rados 8)

aren't koni too aggressive? thanks for your reply

Hi to all. Actually I have some brock b1's 7.5 x 16 in front, and 9x16 rears. I also have yellow selex (competition :S) and they seem to be too agressive.... at first I loved them but now I am like a bit fed up with them... lowered 9cm :nuts: so my rear wheels usually hit rear arches :( :( :( I have just paid 60€ :brickwall: :brickwall: to a garage to 'put' my rear suspension 'harder'... and I can't stand it.... I have driven the car for 1hour and I have got a head ache :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: ........pf..... I have heard of Bilstein+eibach..... I would like to lower the car maximum 3cm (comparing to stock height), and that rear wheels don't hit the arches any more..... and also drive more comfortably ............. I am fed up of hitting every stone, hole, and cigarret end with my bottom!!!!!!!!!! thanksª

yes it is 12v into it.

if you post a pic maybe more advice could be given on it :)

wellcome to corrado ownership :wave:

I own an early Corrado, KR, and have the 2x2 connector (or 1x1,...) which is used in order to get ABS faults. but I have no ABS :shrug: :shrug: So I was wondering why is it in there?? :shrug:

ok thanks, I will try with it then, thanks!

well if you need to use the car as a daily .... I would begin by 'installing' a switch so that you can activate/deactivate the ISV.... I did something similar with my horn more than a year ago, and it is still there :lol: :lol:

hello, I recently did the heater EL illumination job. Can anyone else "hear" the noise it generates? It is like some kind of "piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii" which drives me crazy :cuckoo: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:

sorry to write here but, those who have shaved their corrado's.... could any1 uploade some pics or explain how they filled the VW badge hole, and the CORRADO micro-holes? thanks...

Hi, I edit this post just to tell you all that a 9A CSV can be used in a KR. I took it from an Audi 80 I think and it seems to be working OK. If any1 has any experiences like this, pls reply. thanks.

After disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes, the problem was solved. this thread can be locked, hoping it helps someone elese in the future :salute:

if you purchased a LHD wiper set (lupo), and can't use it.... I will take this!