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Everything posted by twinbeltg60

  1. You are welcome, over the years I have benefited from all the great shared help and info on this site, so glad to maybe give something back.
  2. In case you don't already know, the pin connections are :1 & 2 -Close / Open / Tilt signals from Sunroof Switch, 3 - Led Negative and return path for motor drive signals, 4 - Full Closure +12v signal from Central locking, 5 - Permanent +12V, 6 - Battery negative.
  3. Just to add, you may notice that 2 of the PCB tracks on the pcb look a bit frazzled, thats because they are, I had a transistor go short on the board, so had to glue the tracks back down onto the pcb, repair the break with solder , covered in araldite to keep everything together, replace the £0.16 transistor, but it does all work.
  4. Hi, yes , i suppose you could as long as the failed one was originally from a Corrado and was the one as in my picture (Rockwell 1H0959731) type. If it was from a Corrado, then you should be ok , but if unsure , then follow the first parts of the below procedure and check the cam wheel colour, if its grey then its probably not from a Corrado... To check / change the cam wheel gently prise off the black plastic cover, it has about 5 side clips , there is also a tricky one which is next to the white writing on my motor pic, you need a suitable screwdriver to prise that open, levering in the direction away from the actual motor unit, but first having started on the side clips. When the cover is off remove the 4 stubby philips head pcb board screws, and gently lift up the board adjacent to the Cam wheel, you need to pull that away far enough to wriggle out the cam wheel holding the PCB sufficiently away from the unit to allow free movement, but without breaking the soldered motor connections , and swap over the cam wheel as necessary , as noted above the original Corrado ones should be an off white colour. When you reinstall , you need to line up the Cam before screwing down the pcb, for the alignment the Cam wheel has a hole, you need to line that up with the hole on the pcb, through to the outside casing, so jiggle the wheel around (holding the PCB sufficiently away from the unit to allow free movement, but without breaking the soldered motor connections), I attach a couple of pics, one shows the PCB direction of lift (hopefully you understand i mean you to rotate board up clockwise a little) to get at the Cam wheel, and placement of alignment hole, and the other for interest, shows the actual microswitches that sit under and are operated by the cam wheel. When you have aligned the wheel, say using a small screwdriver through the holes or a piece of steel wire etc, and are happy the holes line up, then reinsert and screw down the 4 philips screws, snap back on the cover, you may then then need to re synchronise the motor position, so connect its 6 pin connector from your sunroof cable, switch ignition on and operate the sunroof switch going in the close direction, then tilt, then back to close, so you can then fit the Motor (providing you have already got the sunroof in its closed position. Hopefully all works.!
  5. Update. Have now ground back the grey cam wheel to match the original white one, and tested ok, now that motor opens sunroof fully.
  6. Update to my previous entry, after getting hold of another motor 1H0959731 that looks exactly the same as my original, found the sunroof would not open all the way, just as in the original user topic, so took it apart and examined the Motor activation drive switch Cam wheel, and it was different to original, in that the Sunroof open microswitch is deactivated earlier than original, as the cam profile for this switch is different. Proved this by swapping cams, and that would swap the sunroof opening distances, so its a bit of a minefield as to whether you get the right one or not. i attach a pic to show the cam differences , the off white one cam wheel on the left of pic is the full opening Corrado one, the Grey one is the partial opening one (this motor came from a VW Sharan). I intend to modify the profile on the grey on to match the earlier one and that should achieve full opening...(if only I had a life...I would have better things to do !)
  7. In case anyone else (such as me who wandered onto this page) was interested I have added my own findings to P3erks query about the Corrado Sunroof motors. The original 1989- early 1993 Sunroof Motor (Rockwell:357877795) had only a 3 pins connector, one was ground, and there were 2 x +12V Switched power to drive the motor forward or back, the 1993 on had a 6 Pin motor that included a Total Closure system whereby if you left the sunroof open , and activated the factory alarm system any open windows and including the sunroof would closed , driven by a 12V signal from the Central locking system, you could also close the windows / sunroof by putting the key in the door lock and turn and holding the key counter clockwise (Closure signal for this comes in on pin-4 , Pin-1,2,3 are for sunroof switch functions, pin-5 is permanent +12v, Pin-6 is Ground). The 6 pin Motor for the Corrado was originally a Rockwell unit part nr:1H0959731,had a permanent +12V , Ground, and sunroof switch control inputs for open/close/tilt on pins 1,2,3, this is the one that slid the sunroof fully back, that unit was dropped in 1996 , and ETKA suggested you use 3A0959731B, this is the Golf type one, made by Bosch, but I have found that this unit does not drive the Corrado sunroof all the way back, I have proven this by comparing both units in operation by counting the revolutions of the Motor cable Drive cog when driven to fully opened, the original Rockwell ( 1H095973) turns approx 9 revolutions, the Bosch ( 3A0959731B) turns approx 8 & 1/4 revolutions, hence it does not open all the way. The Rockwell unit has simple relays and diodes for motor drive control with limits set by micro switches, the Bosch unit is fully electronic and appears to use a sensor sitting above the drive shaft that probably counts the revolutions, and passes these signals to some digital circuitry, which stops the motor accordingly, the noggins described by P3rks on a cam are most likely emergency power cuts to the motor in case the electronic controls fail, they do not appear to control the Motor movements normally. So I suggest that if you want to have the full open function, you need to source the 1H0959731 unit, sometimes these were fitted to Golf Mk3, Passat, Seat Alhambra, Ford Sharan's even, I attach a pic of the Rockwell unit.
  8. twinbeltg60

    Door hinge.

    Hi, This is a difficult job to do, need to do mine at some point, I attach a old post from 2011 from this very forum which shows his solution, good luck, and if you mange to do this please post how you did it , maybe with pics ? Door hinge pin replacement! -..- - Exterior - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)
  9. Hi, I bought the damping pads from Christian, removed the Old residue with "Goo Gone", you can get it on eBay or Amazon or local places...takes a bit of effort but does not damage the paint at all....I sprayed it on liberally, wait 30 mins or so, helps the slap a bit of cling film over the applied area so it doesn't dry out, then scrape off with an old plastic credit card, need to re-do some places, but it will come off cleanly, remember to over up the engine bay with an od sheet or something as the drippings will go everywhere. A G60 Fan.
  10. Received mine within 1 week of ordering, wanted OEM look and been looking for quite a while. Quick answer and despatch from Chris in Germany, and all at a reasonable price.
  11. 20V. Thanks for the quick response..I guess i'll have to try the Wire & Knife method, though I contemplated buying a Special FEIN tools Oscillating cutter (FEIN Supercut FSC 1.6) as this is secifically made for cutting Screens out..it would also come in handy for lots of other specialised cutting applications.[http://www.feinmultimaster.co.uk/fein_supercut_automotive_glaziers.htm] But a tad pricey way of getting a screen out..anyway, thanks for the info. Cheers twinbeltg60 ="20vturbo"]i used square cutting wire and my feet. the wire tends to get caught in the plastic trims on the side of the screen which makes it difficult to get the whole way around. the screen will not come out unbroken unless you are very patient and take your time but for the sake of £200 you might aswell get a new screen and trim. it takes about 10 or 15 minutes to do, then just clean off the left over sealant with a sharp chisel and your good to go. hope that helps.
  12. Hi, Quick question, how did you remove the Front screen, ie what tools did you use, and was it much of a Job...? I need to take mine out to treat severe rust around the screen. Cheers, twinbeltg60
  13. Hi, Well I actually have a G60 and have just bought a new rad, same size as yours, so was just after the info as to who you got the Fans & Brackets from..but I might be interested in a purchase, perhaps. Let me know your decision , P.M me.? Quote: (pending a decision from someone tomorrow, i may also be breaking the car. if that's the case i'll be asking £200 for my new OEM (denso marston) rad complete with fans, brackets and Gruvenparts billet rad neck...)
  14. Hi, Can you say who manufactures / supplies the rad fan's & Mounting bracket you have shown in Page 14.? Cheers,
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