twinbeltg60

Hello, Just so you are aware the picture on Heritage Parts site shows a Unit with Screws holding the halves together, but this is different to the picture shown on JP Parts Website for 1H0919651Q, which I attach, the JP own parts website pictured item has no screws , the halves clip together 9 As an aside, has anyone ever traced the "FORST" supplier Heritage suggest they use?, I have never found that company on any web search. Cheers.

On 2nd thoughts looking again at your pics, the fuel spout cracks are too wide to just be plastic deterioration, as you mentioned previously it looks like this has been dropped at some point, ie leverage has been applied.

Hi, The worry would be cracks around the Pump flange / spout, as you seem to have, if they are all the way through you will lose pressure, | suspect if they had been in the tank environment the cracks wouldn't have appeared, but that's a big maybe. I guess the pump supplied to you is NOS, not new production, I personally would return it and request a new unit, or money back and buy another manufacturer unit as suggested in this thread. I was going to have look at VDO Aftermarket parts to confirm they still manufacture these, but you have to be a Dealer / Workshop with an account to access this info, cannot register as a private individual it seems. Good luck, I will follow this , as I may have to replace my cracked VDO unit also.! Cheeers.

Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.

Hi, Linked page says "Content Not Available"..at least it says that to me.

Keyo, Hi, is there a problem with your G60 Sassy Saturn thread, keeps throwing up error code, page not found.?

Hi, Thanks Keyo, In reality quality wise theyr'e probably worth around £30:00, but VW have to add a bit for the embroidery !, still at least half the price of Spoonfed Tuning ones (though Spoonfed ones appear to be much better quality , if you can afford what the import would cost you, and the waiting). Cheers.

Hi, I just took a delivery today of a set of the mats Keyo mentioned from Inschape, part nr:863-VAG-141-8B-J., they are Black Mats made by Votex, with Corrado name embroidered in Silver/Grey on Drivers and Passenger mats, quality as mentioned in other posts is not as good as original, but not bad for £68.99 GBP delivered in 2 days via ParcelForce. Not sure how many VW UK have left in stock, and believe only black available ? I attach a couple of pics for ref. Cheers.

Hi ABV-VR6, Thanks for that, its how I did my Control Arms many moons ago, so its always one to fall back on, takes care with the hacksaw, I did nick into one of the arms last time, but not badly, can't see it now.I probably could use my Dremel to cut of the angled protruding end and just treat as a normal bearing to remove by pushing out, cheers from across the pond!

Bruno, Hi. Been thinking about this again, I know I am being a pleb, or I need more sleep, but I am finding it difficult to see how you press the old bushes out with this tool, were there instructions / "how to use" diagrams, can you enlighten me please ? Thanks.

Hi Bruno, I found out that the company who make the tool are MARK-MOTO http://www.mark-moto.com.pl/ , the tool is in their on-line catalog under WAR10, but they only deal through distributors, and the ebay guy also has a website, https://gm-tools.eu/index.html, , however as you may have found , though you can select the tool and put it in the basket, on checkout the drop down country to supply to list does NOT include UK...also found another Company, Tesam - Automotive Tools Company - Workshop, they also do sell the same tool / a very similar one listed as tool S0000003, and again I can select to pay in GBP and put the item in basket , but as soon as you try to select delivery to UK..error, so even distributors are not selling to UK, Brexit is more of a pain than I ever imagined it would be, anyway, I hope to change the rear bushings this year and would also be glad to be able to rent this tool from you, if you are still ok with that come the time, I will post up again , pm you, when I am ready. I attach a pic of the TESAM version of the tool, seems a little bit cruder in finishing. Cheers.

You are welcome, over the years I have benefited from all the great shared help and info on this site, so glad to maybe give something back.

In case you don't already know, the pin connections are :1 & 2 -Close / Open / Tilt signals from Sunroof Switch, 3 - Led Negative and return path for motor drive signals, 4 - Full Closure +12v signal from Central locking, 5 - Permanent +12V, 6 - Battery negative.

Just to add, you may notice that 2 of the PCB tracks on the pcb look a bit frazzled, thats because they are, I had a transistor go short on the board, so had to glue the tracks back down onto the pcb, repair the break with solder , covered in araldite to keep everything together, replace the £0.16 transistor, but it does all work.

Hi, yes , i suppose you could as long as the failed one was originally from a Corrado and was the one as in my picture (Rockwell 1H0959731) type. If it was from a Corrado, then you should be ok , but if unsure , then follow the first parts of the below procedure and check the cam wheel colour, if its grey then its probably not from a Corrado... To check / change the cam wheel gently prise off the black plastic cover, it has about 5 side clips , there is also a tricky one which is next to the white writing on my motor pic, you need a suitable screwdriver to prise that open, levering in the direction away from the actual motor unit, but first having started on the side clips. When the cover is off remove the 4 stubby philips head pcb board screws, and gently lift up the board adjacent to the Cam wheel, you need to pull that away far enough to wriggle out the cam wheel holding the PCB sufficiently away from the unit to allow free movement, but without breaking the soldered motor connections , and swap over the cam wheel as necessary , as noted above the original Corrado ones should be an off white colour. When you reinstall , you need to line up the Cam before screwing down the pcb, for the alignment the Cam wheel has a hole, you need to line that up with the hole on the pcb, through to the outside casing, so jiggle the wheel around (holding the PCB sufficiently away from the unit to allow free movement, but without breaking the soldered motor connections), I attach a couple of pics, one shows the PCB direction of lift (hopefully you understand i mean you to rotate board up clockwise a little) to get at the Cam wheel, and placement of alignment hole, and the other for interest, shows the actual microswitches that sit under and are operated by the cam wheel. When you have aligned the wheel, say using a small screwdriver through the holes or a piece of steel wire etc, and are happy the holes line up, then reinsert and screw down the 4 philips screws, snap back on the cover, you may then then need to re synchronise the motor position, so connect its 6 pin connector from your sunroof cable, switch ignition on and operate the sunroof switch going in the close direction, then tilt, then back to close, so you can then fit the Motor (providing you have already got the sunroof in its closed position. Hopefully all works.!

Update. Have now ground back the grey cam wheel to match the original white one, and tested ok, now that motor opens sunroof fully.

Update to my previous entry, after getting hold of another motor 1H0959731 that looks exactly the same as my original, found the sunroof would not open all the way, just as in the original user topic, so took it apart and examined the Motor activation drive switch Cam wheel, and it was different to original, in that the Sunroof open microswitch is deactivated earlier than original, as the cam profile for this switch is different. Proved this by swapping cams, and that would swap the sunroof opening distances, so its a bit of a minefield as to whether you get the right one or not. i attach a pic to show the cam differences , the off white one cam wheel on the left of pic is the full opening Corrado one, the Grey one is the partial opening one (this motor came from a VW Sharan). I intend to modify the profile on the grey on to match the earlier one and that should achieve full opening...(if only I had a life...I would have better things to do !)

In case anyone else (such as me who wandered onto this page) was interested I have added my own findings to P3erks query about the Corrado Sunroof motors. The original 1989- early 1993 Sunroof Motor (Rockwell:357877795) had only a 3 pins connector, one was ground, and there were 2 x +12V Switched power to drive the motor forward or back, the 1993 on had a 6 Pin motor that included a Total Closure system whereby if you left the sunroof open , and activated the factory alarm system any open windows and including the sunroof would closed , driven by a 12V signal from the Central locking system, you could also close the windows / sunroof by putting the key in the door lock and turn and holding the key counter clockwise (Closure signal for this comes in on pin-4 , Pin-1,2,3 are for sunroof switch functions, pin-5 is permanent +12v, Pin-6 is Ground). The 6 pin Motor for the Corrado was originally a Rockwell unit part nr:1H0959731,had a permanent +12V , Ground, and sunroof switch control inputs for open/close/tilt on pins 1,2,3, this is the one that slid the sunroof fully back, that unit was dropped in 1996 , and ETKA suggested you use 3A0959731B, this is the Golf type one, made by Bosch, but I have found that this unit does not drive the Corrado sunroof all the way back, I have proven this by comparing both units in operation by counting the revolutions of the Motor cable Drive cog when driven to fully opened, the original Rockwell ( 1H095973) turns approx 9 revolutions, the Bosch ( 3A0959731B) turns approx 8 & 1/4 revolutions, hence it does not open all the way. The Rockwell unit has simple relays and diodes for motor drive control with limits set by micro switches, the Bosch unit is fully electronic and appears to use a sensor sitting above the drive shaft that probably counts the revolutions, and passes these signals to some digital circuitry, which stops the motor accordingly, the noggins described by P3rks on a cam are most likely emergency power cuts to the motor in case the electronic controls fail, they do not appear to control the Motor movements normally. So I suggest that if you want to have the full open function, you need to source the 1H0959731 unit, sometimes these were fitted to Golf Mk3, Passat, Seat Alhambra, Ford Sharan's even, I attach a pic of the Rockwell unit.

Hi, This is a difficult job to do, need to do mine at some point, I attach a old post from 2011 from this very forum which shows his solution, good luck, and if you mange to do this please post how you did it , maybe with pics ? Door hinge pin replacement! -..- - Exterior - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

Hi, I bought the damping pads from Christian, removed the Old residue with "Goo Gone", you can get it on eBay or Amazon or local places...takes a bit of effort but does not damage the paint at all....I sprayed it on liberally, wait 30 mins or so, helps the slap a bit of cling film over the applied area so it doesn't dry out, then scrape off with an old plastic credit card, need to re-do some places, but it will come off cleanly, remember to over up the engine bay with an od sheet or something as the drippings will go everywhere. A G60 Fan.

Received mine within 1 week of ordering, wanted OEM look and been looking for quite a while. Quick answer and despatch from Chris in Germany, and all at a reasonable price.

20V. Thanks for the quick response..I guess i'll have to try the Wire & Knife method, though I contemplated buying a Special FEIN tools Oscillating cutter (FEIN Supercut FSC 1.6) as this is secifically made for cutting Screens out..it would also come in handy for lots of other specialised cutting applications.[http://www.feinmultimaster.co.uk/fein_supercut_automotive_glaziers.htm] But a tad pricey way of getting a screen out..anyway, thanks for the info. Cheers twinbeltg60 ="20vturbo"]i used square cutting wire and my feet. the wire tends to get caught in the plastic trims on the side of the screen which makes it difficult to get the whole way around. the screen will not come out unbroken unless you are very patient and take your time but for the sake of £200 you might aswell get a new screen and trim. it takes about 10 or 15 minutes to do, then just clean off the left over sealant with a sharp chisel and your good to go. hope that helps.

Hi, Quick question, how did you remove the Front screen, ie what tools did you use, and was it much of a Job...? I need to take mine out to treat severe rust around the screen. Cheers, twinbeltg60

Hi, Well I actually have a G60 and have just bought a new rad, same size as yours, so was just after the info as to who you got the Fans & Brackets from..but I might be interested in a purchase, perhaps. Let me know your decision , P.M me.? Quote: (pending a decision from someone tomorrow, i may also be breaking the car. if that's the case i'll be asking £200 for my new OEM (denso marston) rad complete with fans, brackets and Gruvenparts billet rad neck...)

Hi, Can you say who manufactures / supplies the rad fan's & Mounting bracket you have shown in Page 14.? Cheers,