g0ldf1ng3r

ha ha i had that exact thing on the valver lol unfortunately the VR the head is rounded off & it is stuck fast - when i changed the radiator some time ago i ended up leaving the one light in the slam panel when i took that off

happy to help fella - PM me if anything is unclear on it or you have any questions good news about the waterproof relays - I will keep an eye on how you do that good luck edit - FYI my mention of issues removing headlights is due to the hidden screws which can be a right royal pain in the ass. i am still unsure how i am meant to remove that rounded off screw lol

when the OEM connectors are used it could present a routing issue there are a few tight gaps if you cant get your headlights out & the OEM connectors are quite chunky also, are you planning on water proofing the relays or just the fuses as per the spoonfed link you posted? reason I ask is that most issues happen due to a failed relay, rather than fuse, & normally due to them getting damp etc. however, that said in the 6 years I have had my KUR2Y loom on the VR I have only had 1 failed relay which I simply replaced & all was good again & yes as per seanl82 says an uprated loom needs the yellow dim dip needs to be disconnected & taped up seanrodford - if you are interested & if it would hep you I did an install guide kinda thing when I fitted the valvers a couple of months ago. photos show the routing I took & the mounting of relays etc http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR-amp-1-8-16V-headlight-woe-s/page25

as far as I am aware the bonnet earth cable is something to do with increasing radio reception - cant recall where I read that but am sure it was on here somewhere mine are snapped on both the VR & valver

apologies for only skimming the thread but have you checked your oil pressure & verified the sump pickup is working correctly when my VR went to stealth for head work Vince managed to identify a problem with my sump oil pump such that is was causing the system to over pressurise & then the engine would cut out Vince asked if I had ever experienced it cutting out when still cold if given a good rev but I explained I never go over 3.5k rpm until oil temp is over 70. he explained a tell tale sign of a problem with the sump pick up is that VR's will cut out if rev'd hard when still cold when he pressure tested mine, prior to new sump pump, it was 9 bar! should be about 1.5 IIRC

nice I like the lip on the front skirt! skirt kit reminds me a little of the kamei on my valver you don't know anyone who wants a Zender rear over spoiler do you? lol (in red too) I know they were/are popular in US & Canada welcome by the way :)

I thought images as attachments would have stayed with the threads. I wonder if it has something to do with the site archiving that took place. possibly the threads were moved to archive but not any data within then, ie the pictures I know it took me quite a while to rebuild the matrix guide kris produced as finding the correct images again was a challenge I wonder if Admins could comment?

ha ha that they do Jim they go beautifully with the power output curves from them too ;)

again Gus - my build thread is very pertinent to your current train of thought as I have journeyed down it myself (though from our little pre-Christmas meet & chat you may very well already be bearing my experiences in mind personally I would go to stealth, even despite the testing time I had with them I still highly recommend them as Vince & Jon produce superb results, plus Vince is not happy until his customer is happy! please make sure you well over budget though just in case

nice to see you back P3rks!! :D

Gus have a read of my build thread & specifically the part about when I had my chains & head rebuild done. from personal experience budget WAY more than you first think as once it is apart there are lots of old parts that could well also need replacing. plus, as we all know, with cars of out age just getting them apart can sometimes break stuff which then has to be replaced my engine work at stealth worked out a lot more than I originally intended - though I did also improve both the performance & engine asthetics

hi m8 I had an issue with my valver power steering belt - occasionally slipping & causing very heavy steering issue was found to be the pulley wheel on the power steering pump, it was deformed in its circularity & causing the belt to be chewed slowly & as such random slipping replaced the pulley wheel & it has been ok since

good point Jim those with experience on here know a low miler can potentially raise just as many problems as a high miler

don't worry Rob, I appreciated your post :) links are easy when you know how. just highlight the http://www.blahdeblah.com in the address bar at the top of the web page you are looking at. then right click on the highlighted text & select copy with left mouse button, go to the place you want to show said link & right click & select paste with left mouse button gently gently indeed I will softly softly catchy monkey ;) lol

WTF planet are they on! enough said

thanks Rob, good info & I appreciate your input - am on it like sonic arrgghh the linky no worky m8. says page not found - what is the company name pls? oooo hold on....I think it should be tdnparts.com (apologies as I am looking as I am typing lol) - yup that is them! thanks Rob I had seen the metal adjusters on there thanks to another forum member directing me to then but they are rather pricey thus my plan is to attempt to either: 1 - check the adjuster operate ok on the donor lights & if so fix the broken tabs & then fit them to the valver, as they are meant to be in good condition with exception of the broken tabs. whereas the current passenger light has a crack in it. or 2 - completely strip both set of lights. asses & tart up the best components from each & hopefully build 1 very good set to then reinstall if either of the above fail - which I am prepared for as I have read how brittle the mechanisms are & also tricky to get out - then it will be a case of either those metal ones or I also found replacement manual adjuster parts here http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2203_Adapter-for-Manual-Headlight-Adjusters---VW-Corrado.html which I think is the part that breaks

ahhh poop! another job now on the list as took the valver out on Saturday & my blower motor abruptly stopped :( well, it was kind of weak anyhow, but a bonus as the new replacement arrived yesterday & was a few £'s cheaper than when I got one for the VR last year im hoping for this warm winter weather over the festivities so I can get the lights done & the blower motor. it needs a damn good clean & T cut too!!

I have never hear or seen an uprate loom with just a single relay. they normally have either 2 relays (one for dipped beam & one for full beam) or 3 relays (one for each side of dipped beam & 1 more for both sides of full beam) has the dim-dip resistor been disconnected as I know they can cause funny issues - it is the yellow connector on the passenger side just behind & to the right the headlight. the 2 halves should be disconnected & taped up with electrical tape

have you checked that all 3 beams are working - IE side lights, dipped beam, main beam? if you have an issue with dipped beam it could be a failed relay on the uprate loom what type of loom do you have? 2 or 3 relay? OEM connectors or spade ends which plug into the back of the light?

ha ha ha brilliant post Jekel!! give them a go - I am pretty sure you will be impressed

ha ha ha!!

£72 each for RE002's fitted m8 in a 205/50 - had 2 new ones on the front of the VR last week :D RE002's in 195/50's are £14 per tyre cheaper than the 205's the 205's have come down about £10-£15 over the past 18 months or so too

morning jekel interesting it is m8! & yes that's the location. there is a nice selection of sweeping S bends, both up & downhill, & then the 270 degree loops, again both up & downhill, & all of them dual carriageway. bikers come from miles away for the loops as they like getting their knee down. it is awesome for a play around on as there are lots of variations of combo's you can do Worcester is a very long walk from Bromsgrove, it takes a good 20 odd mins to drive it if there is no traffic, but that cloverleaf is in the middle of the highway which goes from Redditch to Bromsgrove so you have been only a few miles away from it on previous occasions lol yup that high level of camber would eat tyres!

ha ha ha though i don't drive at full beans all the time any longer i certainly have my fair share im on KW V1's with a breathed on NA VR too, just shy of 210 horses ive worked at the same place quite a while now & my 14 mile each way journey consists of pretty much all fairly quiet traffic twisty country lanes. a lovely drive it is in the summer too plus i have the cloverleaf in my back yard http://s37.photobucket.com/user/NastyEvilNinja/media/Cloverleaf.jpg.html which is all 70mph dual carriageway, even the loops & S bends a notorious biker magnet it is & i can say i have turned the heads of many a surprised biker standing on the bridge watching as i exit one of the loops :D great fun & worth a visit if you are in the local vicinity on a dry day. the uphill S's are a corker for enter corner fast, brake hard, get your line right & hammer it in 3rd gear lol i guess my more pottering driving nature lately is rewarding me in miles per tyre

4000 miles - that is a short life span! even a crappy avon lasted longer but the performance was awful ive just changed my RE002's for a new set & they did over 15000